"I thought you said the Congolese don't beh'eve in keeping riches to themselves," I told Anatole once, inclined toward an argument.
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But he just laughed. "Who, Mobutu? He is not even African now." "WeH, what is he, then?",� � >�>�<<>., ',, "He is the one wife belonging to many white men." Anatole explained it this way: Like a princess in a story, Congo was born too rich for her own good, and attracted attention far and "wide from men "who desire to rob her blind. The United States has now become the husband of Zaire's economy, and not a very nice one. Exploitive and condescending, in the name of steering her clear of the moral decline inevitable to her nature.
"Oh, I understand that kind of marriage all right," I said. "I grew up witnessing one just like it.". '��."< r;'^:?;,;1! But it dawns on me now that, in the end, Mother carried every last one of our possessions outside as a farewell gift to Kilanga. There are wives, and then there are wives. My pagan mother alone among us understood redemption.
The rest of us are growing into it, I suppose. God grants us long enough lives to punish ourselves. Janvier 17, Mart de Lumumba and Ruth May, that's still the bleak day at our house. Anatole and I grow wordless and stare into the distance at our own regrets, "which aren't so far apart anymore. On January nights I'm visited by desperate dreams of stretching myself out over the water, reaching for balance. When I look back at the shore, a row of eggs become faces of hungry children, and then comes the fall into blue despair, where I have to move a mountain that crumbles in my hands. It's a relief to wake up drenched in sweat and find Anatole's body next to me. But even his devotion can't keep this weight off my shoulders. "Have mercy upon me, O God, according unto the multitude of thy tender mercies," I catch myself praying, before I've fully awakened to a world where I have no father, and can count on no tender mercies. -?�. ',���, f ' ?�/,: Anatole says recurring dreams are common to those who've suffered seriously from malaria. When I'm nervous or sad I also fall prey to the awful itch fmmfilaires, tiny parasites that crawl into your pores and cause a flare-up every so often. Africa has a thousand ways to get under your skin.- , .->,,: ::.: ";?. '" <
** * . � ; .'� � .�.�.�:.:�>.:�*',
' EXODUS 457
Our life here in Kinshasa contains more mercies than most can hope for. I haven't yet had to bump off Mobutu's elephant. I even got to bring home a nice fat paycheck, for a time. I signed on to an American payroll, rationalizing that I'd scatter dollars over the vendors in nay little corner of la cite, at least, as it's certain no foreign relief will reach them any other way.
Mrs. Ngemba, English teacher, was my new identity. It chafed me as much as the Benedictine habit, as it turns out. I taught at a special school in the compound for Americans who came to work on the Inga-Shaba power line.This was the great nuptial gift from the U.S. to the Congo�financing the construction of the Inga-Shaba. It's an enormous power line stretching across eleven hundred miles of jungle, connecting hydroelectric dams below LeopoldviLle to the distant southern mining region of Shaba. The project brought in Pur-due engineers, crews of Texas roughnecks, and their families, who lived outside LeopoldviLle in a strange city called Little America. I rode the bus out there every morning to teach grammar and literature to the oddly unpoetic children of this endeavor. They were pale and displaced and complained of missing their dire-sounding TV shows, things with Vice and Cop and Jeopardy in their titles. They'd probably leave the Congo never knowing they'd been utterly surrounded by vice, cops, and the pure snake-infested jeopardy of a jungle. The compound was like a prison, all pavement and block, enclosed by razor wire. And like any prisoners, these kids fought with anything sharp they could find. They mocked my style of dress and called me "Mrs. Gumbo." I pitied them, despised them, and silently willed them back home on the first boat. I got "warnings time and again, for "attitude" as the superintendent put it, but he tolerated me for want of a replacement. I quit at the end of the second term.
The place spooked me. I'd step up onto the bus at my street corner at the end of 17 Janvier, doze bumpily through half an hour of predawn, then open my eyes in another wo rid. The compound had row after row of shining metal houses and dozens of liquor bars glittering at daybreak with an aura of fresh vomit and broken glass.
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The bus would hiss to a stop just inside the gate for a bizarre shift change: we teachers and maids would step down, and the bus would take on the weary, disheveled whores. Congolese girls, with bleached orange hair and a crude phrase or two of English, and the straps of expensive American bras sliding down their shoulders from under skimpy blouses. I could just imagine them getting home, folding this uniform, and wrapping themselves in pagnes before going to the market. As we all stood blinking at each other, getting our bearings, the compound trucks would roar past us into the jungle, carrying crews of men who apparently (judging from the whores) never slept. .-��: '�'., :.�'��,;�-.
In the course of a year I watched these rough-and-ready foreigners go out to build thousands of miles of temporary roads for carting cable, machine tools, and sheet metal, past villagers who'll live out their days without electricity, machine tools, or sheet metal.The Shaba Province, incidentally, roars with waterfalls, more than enough to generate its own electricity. But with all the power coming from the capital, the mines could be lit up by Mobutu's own hand, and shut down at the first sign of popular rebellion. Katanga had once tried to secede, after all. At the time I was working there, we believed that was the justification for this strange project.
Since I quit, we've learned more, enough for me to curse my small contribution to the Inga-Shaba. It was not merely a misguided project; it was sinister. The power line was never meant to succeed at all. With no way to service a utility stretching across the heart of darkness, the engineers watched the monster's tail crumble as fast as the front was erected. The whole of it was eventually picked clean in the way a forest tree gets gleaned by leaf-cutter ants: nuts, bolts, and anything that might serve for roofing material trailed off into the jungle. Anyone could have predicted that exact failure. But by loaning the Congo more than a billion dollars for the power line, the world Export-Import Bank assured a permanent debt that we'll repay in cobalt and diamonds from now till the end of time. Or at least the end of Mobutu. It's a popular game, wondering which will come first. With a foreign debt now in the billions,
EXODUS 459
any hope that was left for our Independence is handcuffed in debtor's prison. Now the black market is so much healthier than the legitimate economy I've seen people use zaires for repairing cracks in their walls. Foreign bootlegging of minerals is so thorough that our neighbor the French Congo, without a single diamond mine in its borders, is the world's fifth-largest exporter of diamonds.
And whatever hasn't left the country is in the King's pantry. If my sister Rachel and Mr. William Shakespeare put their heads together to invent an extravagant despot, they couldn't outdo Mobutu. Now he's building a palace modeled on the one his friend the Shah has got in Iran. It's in his native village of Gbadolite. They say he's got fat peacocks strutting around in a courtyard, protected by high walls, pecking up grain from silver plates inscribed with Moorish designs.The gasoline generator that lights up the palace makes such a horrid bellowing, day and night, that all the monkeys have fled the vicinity. The air-conditioning has to run all the time so the jungle heat won't damage the gold leaf on his chandeliers.
I can just imagine. Outside the palace walls, the women of Gbadolite are squatting in their yards, boiling manioc in salvaged hubcaps, and if you asked them the meaning of Independence they'd scowl and shake a stick at you. What a nuisance, they'd say. The towns all have new names, and if that weren't enough to remember, now we're supposed to call one another dtoyen.
In downtown Kinshasa, where a lot of the bars have television sets, Mobutu in his leopard-skin hat blinks on every evening at seven
o'clock for the purpose of unifying our nation. "How many fathers?" he asks again and again in this recorded pageant, and his recorded audience responds, "One!"
"How many tribes? How many parties?" he continues. "How many masters?"
Each time his loyal congregation screams,"Mookoo! One!"
The image flickers and the citoyens drink their beer or go on about their business. Mobutu is speaking in his own tribal language. Most people out there can't even understand.
�-'.5!
Rachel Axelroot DuPree Fairley
THE EQUATORIAL JANUARY 1978
LISTEN, don't believe in fairy tales! After that happy-ever-after wedding, they never tell you the rest of the story. Even if you get to marry the prince, you still wake up in the morning with your mouth tasting like drain cleaner and your hair all flat on one side.
That was poor little me, suddenly a diplomat's wife on the edge of the forest prime evil, wearing my Dior gown and long black gloves to embassy parties in Brazzaville, French Congo.That was the fairy-tale part, and sure, it was fun while it lasted. I felt like a true-life Cinderella. My hair did just wonderfully in the humidity, and I had my own personal French hairdresser (or so he said, but I suspected him of being Belgian), who'd come to our home every Tuesday and Saturday. Life could not have been better. Never would anyone have believed that merely a few short years before I had been living with my family over on the other side of the river�me, the very self-same Rachel, slogging through the filth! Ready to sell my soul for a dry mohair sweater and a can of Final Net hairspray. Hoo, boy! I received quite an education about politics, as an embassy wife. The French Congo and the newly independent Republic of Congo are separated by one mere river and about a million miles of contemporaneous modern thinking. It's because they tried to go and do it all for themselves over there, and don't
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have the temperament. They're still struggling to get decent telephone service. Whereas in my duration of diplomatic service in Brazzaville, French Congo, the worst I ever had to do was fuss at the servants to cut back the scraggly hibiscus on the lawn, and clean the mold off the crystal.
Well. That is all water under the bridge now. Diplomatic service or not, a man who leaves his wife for his mistress is no catch, I was sorry to find out. Well, live and learn. Like they always say, the rear-view mirror is twenty-twenty.
Remy, my third husband, was very devoted. He was an older man. My life has been 101 calamities with at least half of them in the marriage department, but finally I got lucky in love, with Remy Fairley. He at least had the decency to die and leave me the Equatorial.
With Remy resting in peace I was free to express my talents, and I have built this place up from what it was, let me tell you. The Equatorial is now the nicest hotel for businessmen along the whole northern route from Bra2zaville to Owando. We are about a hundred miles north of the city, -which is considerably farther in kilometers, but still we get the tourist trade. There are always French and Germans and what not stopping in on their way up north to oversee one project or another, or just escaping from the city to see a little of true-life Africa before they finish up their foreign assignment in Brazzaville and go back home to their wives.They usually tend to be oil men or interpreners.
We're on the premises of what was formerly a plantation, so the house is surrounded by lovely groves of orange trees and coconut palms. The mansion itself has been converted to twelve comfortable rooms of various sizes, all quite luxurious, with two full baths on each floor. The restaurant is in a large open portico on the ground floor shaded by bougainvilleas. There is nearly always a breeze. We recently put in a second small covered patio with a bar so that while my guests are enjoying a meal, their chauffeurs "will have a pleasant place to bide their time. The restaurant is for paying guests only, which is, needless to say, whites, since the Africans around here wouldn't earn enough in a month to buy one of my prix-jixe din-
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ners. But I certainly am not one to leave anyone sitting out in the rain! So I built them that shelter, so they wouldn't be tempted to come in and hang about idly in the main bar. I'm famous for my love of animals, too, and have created quite a little menagerie in the compound bet-ween the garden and the restaurant for everyone's amusement. Any time of day you can hear the parrots chattering in their cages. I taught them to say "Drink up now! Closing time!" in English, French, and Afrikaans, though I have to admit they've picked up a few depictable phrases from my guests, over the years. The clientele at the Equatorial is always the highest caliber but, nevertheless, they are men., ; : ,
My proudest achievement is the swimming pool, patio, and gardens, which I put in entirely by myself. The pool took the most spectacular effort. I got it dug by paying a whole troop of local boys for each and every basket of earth they moved. And of course, watching like a hawk to be sure they didn't stuff the bottom of the basket with leaves. It is hard work running a place like this, don't you believe it. My help would rob me blind if I didn't keep every single thing locked down, and punish the culprits with a firm hand. Most women would not last a week in my position. My secret is: I like it! I really do. In spite of everything, I stroll through the restaurant in my bikini with my platinum-blonde hair piled high, jingling my big bunch of keys, cheerfully encouraging my guests to drink their martinis and forget about their workaday cares back home. And I think: Finally, Rachel, this is your own little world. You can run it exactly however you please. Who needs a husband when I have more handsome gentlemen around than you can shake a stick at? And yet, if ever I don't like the way someone behaves, out he goes! If I want chicken curry for dinner, I simply say to the cooks: Chicken curry! If I want more flowers, I snap my fingers and have them planted. Just like that. Oh, I work myself to the bone, keeping this business open seven days a week and the weekends. My rates might be a little higher than average, but my guests do not have a single complaint. Why should they go and get swindled at some other establishment when they can come here!
EXODUS 463
I will probably grow very rich and very old at the Equatorial before any member of my family ever visits me here. It's true! They never have. Leah is right over there in Kinshasa, which is just a hop, skip, and jump away. When they had that fight down there with Muhammad Ali and George Foreman we had tons of tourists from that. They came over to Africa for the fight and then crossed the river and toured around in French Congo, since the roads and everything are so much nicer in general over here. I knew we'd get a slew of people, the minute they announced they were having that fight. I've always had a sixth sense for spotting a trend coming, and I was right on the ball. I finished up the second-floor bathroom I'd been having trouble with, and redecorated the bar with a boxing theme. I even went through hell and high water trying to get an authentic advertising poster from the fight, but sometimes you just have to make do with what you have. I got one of the boys to fashion little miniature boxing gloves out of dried plantain leaves sewn together, -which turned out very realistic, and had them dangling down from all the lights and fans. I hate to brag but if I do say so myself they were cute as a button.
I kept thinking, everyone is in such a festive mood, and Leah is just not that far away, in miles. Mother and Adah keep saying they might come over to visit, and if they could cross an entire ocean, you would think Leah could stoop to taking a bus. Plus, supposedly Father is still over there wandering about in the jungle, and honestly, what else does he have to do? He could get cleaned up and pay a visit on his eldest daughter. Oh, I dreamed of a true class reunion of our family. Just imagine all their faces, if they saw this place. Which, I might add, none of them came.
1 I suppose I should just give up, but in the back of my mind I still think about it. I picture myself taking Leah and Adah on the grand tour, sweeping my hand over the elegant mahogany paneling in the bar, Ta-dah! Or grandly opening the door to the upstairs bathrooms, which have mirr
ors edged in faux gold (I could afford real, but it would peel right off in this humidity!) and give the overall effect of appearing very continental, -with toilet and bidet. How
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astonished my sisters would be to see what all I have accomplished, starting with practically nothing. I don't care if they're gifted and know every word in the dictionary, they still have to give credit for hard work. "Why, Rachel," Leah would say, "you run this place with such genialness and vivacity! I never knew you had such an exemplary talent for the hospitality business! "Adah would, of course, say something more droll, such as "Why, Rachel, your interest in personal hygiene has truly become a higher calling."
If you ask me, that's exactly why they don't come�they're afraid they would have to start respecting me finally. I'm sure they'd rather go on thinking they are the brains of the family and I am the dumb blonde. They have always been very high up on their horses, which is fine, although if you ask me they have shot their own career ladders in the foot. Adah evidently got famous for being a brain in college and going to medical school (Mother sent me newspaper clippings for Adah winning some prize practically every time she took a crap), and she could have done very well for herself as a lady doctor. But what I gather from what Mother writes me now is that she works night and day wearing a horrid white coat in some dreary big-deal place in Atlanta where they study disease organisms. Well, fine! I guess somebody has to do it!
Now, Leah, though. That one I will never understand. After all this time I can certainly work with the Africans as well as anybody can, mainly by not leading them into temptation. But to marry one? And have children? It doesn't seem natural. I can't see how those boys are any kin to me.
I wouldn't say so to her face, of course. I swear I haven't said a word in all these years. Not that it's hard, since we don't write all that often. She only sends Christmas cards, which generally get here just in the nick of time for Easter. I think the mailmen over in Zaire must be lazy or drunk half the time. And when I do get a letter, it's always a great disappointment. Just: Oh how are you, I had another baby named whatsit or whosis. She could at least give them names in plain English, you would think. She never asks about the hotel at all.
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