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Milk Page 37

by Mark Kurlansky

cheese consumption in, here

  cheese production of, here, here, here, here

  cream sauces in, here

  on curdled milk, here

  on Dutch dairy consumption, here

  fall of, here

  ice and snow used by, here

  lactating animals used as wet nurses in, here

  laws on wet-nursing, here

  milk consumption of, here, here, here, here

  on milk consumption of barbarians, here, here

  porridge in, here, here

  requirements for wet nurses, here

  Ronnybrook, here, here, here

  Roosevelt, Theodore, here

  Roquefort cheese, here, here

  Roquefort-sur-Soulzon, France, here, here

  Rorer, Sarah Tyson, here, here, here

  Rose, Peter G., here

  Rotolactor, here, here

  Rouen, France, here

  Rousseau, Jean-Jacques, here, here

  roux, here, here

  Royal Basset blue cheese, here

  ruminants, milk of, here

  Russia, bottle-feeding in, here, here

  saccharometer, for measuring sugar content, here

  The Saga of Ref the Sly, here

  sago, here

  St. Louis, Missouri, here

  St. Louis World’s Fair (1904), here, here

  salt

  for butter, here, here, here, here, here

  and canning, here

  in cheese production, here, here

  combined with ice for freezing, here, here

  in Iceland, here

  in India, here

  Samartians, here

  Samoset (Indian leader), here

  Sánchez, Celia, here

  Sanders, Bernie, here

  San Lorenzo dairy, here

  Sanlu Group, here

  Santo Domingo, here

  sauce normande, here

  Saudi Arabia, here

  Scandinavia, here, here, here, here, here

  scarlet fever, here

  Schama, Simon, here

  Schiavonetti, Luigi, Milk below Maids, here

  Schneider, Joe, here

  Schumer, Chuck, here

  Scordia, Yves-René, here

  Scotland

  buttermilk in, here, here, here

  cattle breeding in, here

  cheese production in, here

  cow’s milk in, here, here

  cream cheese in, here

  griddles in, here

  junket in, here

  melted-cheese cuisine in, here

  oats in, here, here, here

  sheep’s milk in, here

  stretching milk supply in, here

  syllabubs in, here

  whey in, here, here

  Scott, John M., here

  Scottish Women’s Rural Institutes, here

  scurvy, here

  Scythians, here, here

  Sereni, Clara, Casalinghitudine, here

  Sèvres, France, here

  Shakespeare, William, here

  Shanghai, China, here, here

  Shao, Charles, here

  sharbate (iced fruit beverage), here

  Sharp, Jane, here

  sharûb (iced fruit beverage), here

  sheep

  breeds of, here, here

  domestication of, here, here

  introduction to Americas, here

  in Tibet, here, here

  treatment of, here

  sheep’s milk

  in Basque, here, here, here

  for cheese production, here, here, here, here, here, here, here, here, here, here, here, here, here, here, here, here

  in Iceland, here

  in India, here

  for jance, here

  in Middle Ages, here

  in Scotland, here

  for smen, here

  suitability for humans, here, here

  and Sumerian culture, here

  sherbet, here

  Shetland Islands, here

  Shields, Alexander, here

  shih mi, here

  Shorthorn breed, here, here, here, here

  shrimp butter, here

  Sicily, here

  Siegel-Cooper Company, here

  silage, here

  Simental breed, here

  Simmons, Amelia, here, here

  skyr, here, here, here

  slaves and slavery, here, here, here, here, here, here, here

  smallpox, here

  smen (clarified butter), here, here

  Smith, Eliza, here, here, here, here, here, here

  Smith, Hiram, here

  Smith, Hugh, here

  Smith, John, here

  Smith, Lisa, here

  Snow, John, here

  social class

  and bottle-feeding, here, here, here, here, here, here

  and breastfeeding, here, here, here, here, here, here

  and butter consumption, here

  and buttermilk, here

  and cheese consumption, here

  and dairying as hobby, here

  in India, here

  and meat consumption, here

  and milk consumption, here, here, here, here, here, here, here, here, here, here, here

  and milk production, here

  and pancakes, here

  and wet nurses, here

  Socotra island, here

  soda fountains, here, here

  sole normande, here, here

  Somerset, England, here, here, here, here

  Soranus, here

  sorbets, here, here

  soured milk, here, here, here, here, here

  South (United States), here, here

  South America, here, here

  Southeast Asia, here, here

  Soviet Union, here, here, here, here, here

  Spain, here, here, here, here, here

  Spanish criollo cows, here

  Spartans, here

  spring houses, here

  Starbucks, here

  StarLink corn, here

  steam-powered milkers, here

  Stein, Gertrude, here

  Stevenson, Robert Louis, here

  Stichelton cheese, here

  Stilton cheese, here, here, here

  Stinking Bishop cheese, here

  Stover, Russell, here

  Strabo, here, here

  Straus, Nathan, here, here

  strontium-90, here

  su (fermented drink), here

  sugar, here, here, here, here

  Sullivan, Caroline, here

  Sumerian culture, here, here, here, here

  sundae, origin of term, here

  Sunni Muslims, here

  Sunrise Organic Dairy, here

  supermarket chains, here

  Sweden, here, here, here

  swill milk, here, here, here, here, here, here, here

  Swiss cheese, here

  Swiss Cheese Company, here

  Switzerland

  bottle-feeding in, here

  cattle breeding in, here, here

  cheese production in, here

  dairy consumption in, here

  melted-cheese cuisine in, here

  milk consumption of, here

  milk production in, here, here

  syllabubs, here, here

  syra, here

  Tacitus, here

  Tacuinum Sanitatis, making ricotta, here

  Taillevent, here, here, here, here

  Talleyrand-Périgord, Charles Maurice de, here

  Tambourin, Guillaume, here

  Tambourin, Jean-François, here, here

  Tambourin, Michel, here

  Tang Dynasty, here, here

  Taylor, Zachary, here

  tea, here, here, here, here, here

  temperance movement, here

  Terhune, Mary Virginia Hawes, here

  Terrail, Claude, here

  tête noir (black face) sheep, here, here, here

  tête rousse (red head) sheep,
here, here

  Texas Longhorn, here

  Thatcher, Henry G., here

  Thistle Milker, here

  Thompson, Emery, here

  Thracians, here

  Thule, here

  Tibet

  dairy culture of, here, here

  milk production in, here

  nomads of, here, here

  yaks in, here

  Tibetan Buddhism, here, here, here, here, here

  t-i-hu (butter), here

  Til Ande ka Achar (Eggs with Yogurt Sauce), here

  Times of India, here

  Tinos, here

  Tochmarc Ailbe, here

  Tode, Adolph, here

  Toklas, Alice B., here

  Tompson, Marian, here

  Tortoni, François Xavier, here

  tortoni (ice cream), here

  tracta (forerunner of pasta), here, here, here

  Traité du XIIIe Siècle, here

  Tropical Holstein breed, here

  Truman, Harry, here

  tsamba, here

  Tschirky, Oscar, here, here

  Tserang, Ba Yo, here

  Tserang, Droma, here

  tube milking, here

  tuberculosis, here, here, here, here, here, here, here

  Tujague’s restaurant, New Orleans, here

  turbot à la béchamelle, here

  Turkey, here, here

  Twamley, Josiah, here

  Two Rivers, Michigan, here

  typhoid, here, here

  Ubre Blanca breed, here

  UHT (ultra-high temperature) milk, here, here

  ultrafiltration, here

  Underwood, William, here

  UNICEF, here

  Unilever, here

  Union Settlement House, New York City, free milk program, here

  Union Station, Kansas City, here

  United Nations, here, here

  United Nations Food and Agriculture Organization, here, here

  United Nations World Health Organization, here

  United States

  canned food in, here

  cattle breeding in, here

  cheese production in, here, here, here

  condensed milk in, here

  cookbooks of, here

  cuisine of, here

  English influence on food of, here

  ice cream in, here, here, here, here, here

  machine milking in, here

  milk consumption in, here, here, here

  milk production in, here, here, here, here, here, here, here, here, here

  and nuclear weapons, here, here

  pasteurization in, here

  U.S. Department of Agriculture, here, here, here

  U.S. Food and Drug Administration, here, here, here

  U.S. Postal Service, here

  U.S. Public Health Service, here, here, here

  University of Beijing, here

  University of Minnesota, here

  Upson, Cory, here, here

  Ur, here

  Urus, here

  vacuum pan, here

  vacuum pump milkers, here

  Vallambert, Simon de, here

  van Beverwijck, Jan, here

  Vandals, here

  Van Houten, Casparus, here

  vanilla beans, here, here

  vanilla flavor, here

  van Leeuwenhoek, Anton, here

  Vanous, Cyprus, stone receptacles for milk from, here

  vegetarianism, here

  Velveeta, here, here

  Venner, Tobias, here

  Vera Cruz, Mexico, here

  Vermont, here

  Verrall, William, here, here

  Versailles, here

  Victoria (queen of England), here

  Vietnam, here

  Vikings, here, here

  Vilanova, Arnau de, Regiment de Sanitat, here

  Virginia Company, here

  Virgin Mary, here, here, here

  Voisin, André, here

  Wadsworth, Benjamin, here

  Waldorf-Astoria, here

  Wales, here, here, here

  Walker, Burr, here

  Walker-Gordon Certified Milk Dairy, here

  Walton, Izaak, here

  Washington, Booker T., here

  Washington, George, here, here, here, here

  Washington, Martha, here, here

  water buffalo’s milk, here

  Watson, James Dewey, here, here

  Wayne, “Mad Anthony,” here

  Welsh rabbit (rarebit), here, here, here

  Wenberg, Ben, here

  wet nurses

  babies acquiring personality of, here, here, here, here

  bottle-feeding compared to, here, here, here

  drawbacks of, here

  and hair color, here

  and infant mortality rate, here

  lactating animals used as, here, here, here, here, here

  men’s employment of, here

  men’s opinions of, here

  for nonhuman animals, here

  regulation of, here, here, here, here, here

  slaves as, here, here

  as substitute for breastfeeding, here

  whale meat, here

  whey

  beer made with, here

  in cheese production, here, here, here, here

  as cures, here

  drinking of, here, here

  Dutch consumption of, here

  as form of payment, here

  in Iceland, here, here

  Mongols’ production of, here

  in Scotland, here, here

  and skyr, here

  in Velveeta, here

  White, Mary, here

  White Hart inn, here

  White Revolution, here, here

  White Russian (cocktail), here, here

  white snakeroot (Eupatorium urticaefolium), here

  Willard, Xerxes Addison, here

  William of Orange, here

  William of Rubruck, here, here, here, here

  Williams, Jesse, here

  Williams, Roger, here

  Wilson, E. O., here

  Wiltshire cheddar cheese, here

  Wiltshire Loaf cheese, here, here

  Wisconsin, here, here

  witchcraft, here

  women. See also breastfeeding; wet nurses

  butter production of, here, here, here

  cheese production of, here, here, here, here, here, here

  clothing facilitating breastfeeding, here

  and cocktails, here

  Joseph Collet on gourmandism of, here

  decisions about own bodies, here, here

  and donkey’s milk as cosmetic, here

  milk consumption of, here

  milking responsibilities of, here, here, here, here, here, here, here, here, here

  milk production of, here

  as milk vendors, here

  prejudice against women in factories, here

  in Tibet, here

  Wondermilk dairy, here

  World Bank, here

  World Dairy Congress, here

  World War II, here

  Xining, Tibet, here, here, here

  Xu Fuqi, here

  Xuanzong (Chinese emperor), here

  yaks

  milk of, here, here

  in Tibet, here

  yak butter, here, here, here, here, here, here

  yak cheese, here, here

  yak yogurt, here, here

  Yale, Elihu, here

  Yale University, here

  Yanping, Qiao, here, here

  yogurt

  in China, here

  cooking meat with, here, here

  development of, here

  as fermented milk product, here

  frozen yogurt, here

  in Greece, here, here, here

  health benefits of, here

  in India, here, here, here, here, here

  lack of lactose in, here

  production of, here, here, here,
here, here, here, here

  yak yogurt, here, here

  yougurt sauces, here

  Zagradanis, Adonis, here

  Zammit, Themistocles, here

  Zebu breed, here, here, here

  Zhongje, Lha, here

  zomo (cow-yak cross), here

  Zwierlein, Conrad, here

  A NOTE ON THE AUTHOR

  MARK KURLANSKY is the New York Times bestselling author of Cod, Salt, Paper, Havana, The Basque History of the World, 1968 and The Big Oyster, among other titles. He has received the Dayton Literary Peace Prize, Bon Appétit’s Food Writer of the Year Award, the James Beard Award and the Glenfiddich Award. He lives in New York City.

  www.markkurlansky.com

  Twitter: @codlansky

  Also Available from Mark Kurlansky

  Havana:

  A Subtropical Delirium

  In Havana, New York Times bestselling author Mark Kurlansky brings to pulsing life the always surprising city of tropical heat, ramshackle beauty, and its very own cadence.

  Part cultural history, part travelogue, with recipes, historic engravings, photographs, and the author’s own pen-and-ink drawings throughout, Havana presents an insider’s view of the vibrant city Mark Kurlansky has come to know over more than thirty years—it’s singular music, literature, baseball, and food; it’s five centuries of outstanding, neglected architecture; and its extraordinary blend of cultures.

  From Cuba’s status as a U.S. protectorate to Batista’s dictatorship and Castro’s revolution, from Soviet presence to the welcoming of capitalist tourism, Havana is a place of extremes, whose traces linger on its elegant and tattered surface. Weaving in vivid views of the city through the eyes of Cuban writers like José Martí, Alejo Carpentier, and Nicolás Guillén and foreign writers like John Muir, Ernest Hemingway, and Graham Greene, Kurlansky creates a multilayered and electrifying portrait that brings this long-elusive city stirringly to life.

  “Kurlansky approaches Havana like an Impressionist painter, building the image of this metropolis of 2 million inhabitants with subtle brushstrokes.” —The Washington Post

  “Kurlansky reaches back 500 years to track the city’s evolving history, separating out the different strands—Spanish, African, American, Russian; political, social, musical, culinary—that slowly steeped to create Havana’s piquant blend of static defiance.” —The New York Times, “Summer’s Best Travel Books”

  BLOOMSBURY PUBLISHING

  Bloomsbury Publishing Plc

  50 Bedford Square, London, WC1B 3DP, UK

  BLOOMSBURY, BLOOMSBURY PUBLISHING and the Diana logo are trademarks of Bloomsbury Publishing Plc

  First published in the United States 2018 as Milk!: A 10,000-Year Food Fracas

  This edition published 2019

  Copyright © Mark Kurlansky, 2018

  Illustrations here, here, here, here, here, here, here, here, here, here, here, here, here, here, here, here, here, here, here © Mark Kurlansky, 2018

  WPA poster promoting milk for Cleveland Division of Health here courtesy of the Library of Congress

 

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