by Matt Joseph
made uniform with a hammer and a
was spent answering my questions,
all, you paid for all of it—and often,
special die that Matt had fabricated
and stopping work so that I could
this is the best way to go. It all
for this purpose.
photograph it.
depends on the soundness of the old
Finishing details and features
quarter panel, the quality of the
were added to the new splash shield.
Making Panels and Trim Fit
replacement panel, and the logic of
Two three-dimensional strap holes
where you have to weld in the new
were formed near its bottom edge.
From replacing quarter panels to
metal. It is possible that there are
Wire edging was completed around
making grille or headlight trim sur-
features of the old metal that are
an indent in its top edge, which con-
round pieces fit properly, autobody
sound, making them superior to their
tained turns that were too sharp for
panel work constantly requires adjust-
counterparts in the replacement
AUTOMOTIVE BODY WOR K AN D R UST R E PAI R
103
CHAPTE R 1 0
Quarter-Panel Replacement
Part of this quarter panel’s lower
1
section had already been removed
to gain access for a structural repair to
part of the unibody. Now, tape was
applied to it to indicate the cut line for
removing the rest of the quarter-panel
metal that would be replaced.
Cutting out a quarter panel with
2
a plasma arc torch is fast and
accurate. With a car stripped as far
as this one is, there is no reason not
to use this technique for this job.
Even a good quarter panel can
4
have problems. It pays to
correct the obvious ones before you
install it. This panel has bulges
The almost-removed quarter panel is shown here, dangling (just for my
generated by stretched metal.
3
photograph) from the rest of the body. Note that the worker is wearing
Shrinking the metal with a shrinking
gloves, a welding helmet, and dust mask. That kind of protection is a very
hammer saves time later, when it will
good idea when you use a plasma cutter.
be more difficult to gain good access.
panel. This may be the case with
have a place(s) in your approach to
like inner wheel housing attach-
regard to the positions of character
cutting out an old quarter panel. One
ments must be confirmed for align-
lines, or of accessory mounting
that is not described there, the old
ment and contact, before you weld
points that have to match other fea-
air-chisel method of separating large
in a new quarter panel. It is much
tures in surrounding panels. Every
metal sections from panels, is pretty
easier to correct structural issues
partial panel replacement has its
obsolete, but sometimes has a place
before a quarter panel is mounted
own logic and imperatives. Where
in cutting out areas in some quarter-
than after. In most cases, any sup-
you cut and weld in new metal may
panel constructions. Plasma arc cut-
porting structure behind quarter
be an easy decision, or it may
ting is often the fastest and best way
panels is at their edges. The excep-
take considerable forehead-wrinkling
to sever old quarter-panel metal.
tion is monocoque quarter panels,
thought.
Any supporting structure behind
where a skin is stretched over struc-
Any of the metal cutting tech-
a quarter panel that you replace must
ture during manufacture to give
niques described in Chapter 4 may
be repaired if it is damaged. Areas
rear vehicle quarter areas added
104
AUTOMOTIVE BODY WOR K AN D R UST R E PAI R
S P ECIAL P ROJ ECTS AN D P RO CE DU R E S
buildup in your welded joints. Some
of the tips in Chapter 8 help you to
avoid unnecessary welding heat
buildup. Anything that you can do
to reduce it saves you time, by limit-
ing metal distortion. This also
improves the quality of your work.
Shrinking and stretching are
often needed to make a quarter-
panel replacement work. Remember,
quarter-panel replacement is a fairly
advanced job, one that should only
be attempted after you have mas-
Here, you can see how rough
It is best to cut a temporary line
tered basic metal working and panel
5
6
this panel is. Unfortunately,
into either the old or the new
welding skills.
there was no other choice for this
panel, for a trial fitting. After that, you
application. Reworking this panel,
can refine the fit of your seam and
Door Re-Skinning
before it was installed, saved time.
make your final cuts.
Door re-skinning was once a
structural strength. An example of
easier to correct many of these prob-
fairly common procedure in automo-
this construction is the Jaguar XK-E.
lems before you attach new metal,
bile repair and restoration work.
Although it is almost impossible
rather than after.
About the third time that I re-
to duplicate monocoque construc-
Good panel fit is critical, before
skinned a door, I did it right, and was
tion in repair or restoration work,
you attempt to weld in new quarter-
able to complete the job acceptably
dealing with it does dictate the use of
panel metal. Usual practice is to
and in a reasonable amount of time.
special measures that are beyond the
hang and position the new quarter
Those first two times…well, I don’t
scope of this book. Just remember
panel in place with Clecos, and then
want to talk about them. Let’s just
that if you ever encounter mono-
to weld it with lap (or occasionally
say that a Three Stooges comedy rou-
coque construction, you have to
with butt) welding techniques to the
tine has nothing on them, except
account for it. Semi-monocoque rear
old metal. Your choices of welding
possibly being funny.
quarters are fairly common. How-
technique and joint type depend on
In recent years, door skinning
ever, the amount of structural
your situation, and on your skills. At
has become pretty rare in collision
strength contained in the outer metal
the high end, this joint is pe
rformed
work, but it is still performed some-
in these units is relatively small, and
as a butt joint with TIG equipment.
times in repair and in restoration
they can be repaired or replaced
In the middle range are lap joints
work. The reasons for the decline of
using conventional techniques.
welded with MIG equipment. And,
this procedure will give you some
A key to performing successful
at the low end are spot-welded lap
idea of the problems with it. The first
rear-quarter-panel replacement is the
joints that have to be slathered with
is the availability of decent new door
sometimes disappointing realization
filler to hide them. Chapter 8
skins. The ones made by OEM man-
that reproduction quarter panels are
describes the relevant fixturing and
ufacturers tend to be expensive. They
manufactured to varying standards
welding techniques for quarter-panel
also can be hard to find for older
of accuracy and quality. A few are
replacement, in detail.
vehicles. The door skins sourced
impressively good, while others are
No matter how careful you are in
from aftermarket suppliers are often
nearer to the junk category. It is nec-
fixturing and welding in new quar-
more trouble than they are worth.
essary to know how accurate your
ter-panel metal, there is always
Simply put, they frequently do not
replacement panel is, and to begin to
cleanup shaping work to do, after it
fit very well. It can take enormous
correct any deficiencies in it, before
is welded into place. The best way to
amounts of labor to make them fit
you try to weld it into place. It is far
minimize this work is to control heat
properly and look good. Due to their
AUTOMOTIVE BODY WOR K AN D R UST R E PAI R
105
CHAPTE R 1 0
Avoid economy skins like the prover-
apart from the top, after windows
bial plague. After you have removed
and their trim have been removed.
the subject door and stripped it of all
After the old skin is removed,
removable parts—trim, door handle
either by grinding its flange or by
and latching mechanism, window
prying its edges back, all metal and
regulator, window tracks, wiring,
weld residues must be removed from
etc.—it is time to remove the old
the core’s flange areas. They should
skin. After you have removed the
then be straightened, ground flat,
spot welds that secure the skin to the
and smoothed, as necessary.
door by grinding, drilling (with a
The new skin should be held in
After all fold-over flange spot welds
spot-weld cutting drill), or disc sand-
the door opening and visually
have been ground, or otherwise
ing them away, you are ready to
checked for contour match against,
broken, a pair of door de-skinning
remove the original door skin. This
and fit to, the metal that will sur-
pliers like this one helps to remove
can be accomplished by various
round it. Then it should be checked
the skin. This works best after the
methods, including edge grinding,
against the core. If you discover any
edge of the skin has been ground or
seam chiseling, or seam prying. Spe-
damage to the core, it must be cor-
sanded through. Then, the pliers
cial pliers-type devices that are sold
rected before you try to fit the new
remove the remaining folded-over
to remove door skins work well to
skin to it. If the skin does not posi-
metal strip. (Photo courtesy of the
unfold door skin edges from door
tion on the core naturally and easily,
Eastwood Co.)
cores.
you have to determine whether the
Carefully grinding the fold-over
problem is in the skin, in the core, or
light construction—an emphasis on
edge of the old skin is often a good
in both, and correct it.
weight reduction—modern doors are
gambit for starting the skin’s
Almost all skins come with the
often damaged in collisions to the
removal. A grinding wheel or a disc
90-degree closing bends already
point that re-skinning them is
sander outfitted with 24-grit abrasive
formed at their bottom and side
uneconomical. It requires so much
is a good setup for this job. If you go
flange edges. A skin of this type may
work to straighten their frames, (or
this route, be careful to stop grinding
have a top bend that slips over the
cores, as they are called in the indus-
or sanding just as you go through
core, or it may not be configured
try), that the labor cost in these jobs
the old skin’s folded edge. If you
that way. In either case, a good skin
makes replacement with new, or sal-
work slowly and watch carefully, you
should slip into place over its core
vage doors, look pretty good. That, at
should be able to see a dark, early
easily and authoritatively. Some
least, is increasingly often the con-
separation line appear in the folded
skins allow for limited adjustment of
clusion of most insurance compa-
metal as you cut through it. Be care-
nies. In many cases, they simply will
ful to stop grinding before you grind
not pay for door re-skinning.
into the core’s flange area.
Door re-skinning is still done in
Spot welds between the core and
restoration work, but many restorers
skin in the door handle area are com-
prefer to use salvage doors if they are
mon, so look for and remove them.
available in reasonable condition. If
Some doors have internal bracing,
rust is the reason for re-skinning a
particularly in their upper areas near
door, it is likely that the core requires
the window edges. The spot welds
These door-skinning pliers do an
so much work to make it sound that
that attach these braces to the door
accurate job of folding the edge of a
a salvage door looks like a better
skin will have to be broken. Grinding
new skin over a door’s edge flange.
alternative. Still, there are times
carefully through the skin is one way
Always begin folding the skin edge at
when door re-skinning is the best or
to get at them, without destroying
its center and work out toward its
only way to go.
metal that will be need
ed later to
corners, alternating from side to side
The first imperative in this work
attach the new skin. Sometimes
from the center, as you go. (Photo
is to start with a good door skin.
these attachment points can be cut
courtesy of the Eastwood Co.)
106
AUTOMOTIVE BODY WOR K AN D R UST R E PAI R
S P ECIAL P ROJ ECTS AN D P RO CE DU R E S
their positions on their cores. These
each area, outward, in both direc-
cure times, but don’t plan on any
allow some movement of the core
tions, to the door’s corners. That
extracurricular activities too soon
within the skin’s edge bends, after
sequence helps to avoid distorting,
after you have applied them. Door
those edges are partially or fully
buckling, and stressing the installed
skinning that is performed this way
closed over the core. This movement
skin.
often involves two or three people,
is only possible before they are
In some configurations, the tops
and those people tend to move
welded, or otherwise permanently
of skins are positioned and secured
pretty fast, once the adhesive has
fastened, to their cores.
by the bracket areas that you may
been applied. Multiple tools are
Skins of this type have to be posi-
have ground through when you
often employed to bend the skin’s
tioned in the door jamb before they
removed the original skin. In these
edges over its core.
are fully attached to their cores. This
cases, the new skin will have brackets
The other method of adhering
usually is done by temporarily hang-
or flanges that mate to them. These
skins to cores is to weld them in
ing these doors, before final flange
may be adjusted for skin-to-core gap,
place on their bottom and side
closing is completed. At this point, it
and then secured with sheetmetal
edges, after those edges are fully
should be possible to move these skins
screws or by welding them. Once
closed. This can be done with spot,
on their cores vertically, laterally, and
this is done, the door skin flanging
MIG, or TIG approaches. Attachment
diagonally by small amounts, to make
can be completed. There are several
welds should be made at intervals of
them fit properly in their door open-
ways to do this. You can move re-
every few inches, along each bottom
ings and to make character lines align.
skinning pliers along skin flanges to