by Diccon Bewes
Sovereign: a gold coin worth one pound
In terms of comparing prices then and now, there are a couple of aspects to bear in mind when reading figures quoted in this book:
Exchange rate: In 1863 there were 25 francs to the pound, a rate that remained fairly stable until after the First World War. Since then the Swiss franc has only ever grown in strength:
1945, £1 = 17 SFr
1970, £1 = 10 SFr
2000, £1 = 2.50 SFr
today, £1 = 1.50 SFr
Relative worth: What is hardest for modern readers to judge is how much all that is in today’s money. For prices of goods, we can use inflation over time as a guide: a 7.20 franc train ticket would be 100 francs in today’s money, while British beef at 8d a pound is equivalent to £2.40 now. As wages and prices have risen at different rates, it’s maybe easier to think laterally. In the Switzerland of 1863 butter was twice the price of beef, but the farmhand working with the cows would need almost two days’ wages to buy one kilo; in Britain the same worker only needed half of a day to buy a kilo of British butter. So to help your mental maths with the prices given in this book, here’s a (very rough) handy calculator:
1863
Now
1863
Now
£1
£75
25 francs
375 francs
1s
£3.75
1 franc
15 francs
10d
£3
10 rappen
1.50 francs
1d
30p
1 rappen
15 rappen
BIBLIOGRAPHY
BOOKS IN ENGLISH
Michael Bailey (ed.), Robert Stephenson: The Eminent Engineer, Ashgate Publishing, 2003.
Andrew Beattie, The Alps: A Cultural History, Signal Books, 2006.
Geoffrey Best, Mid-Victorian Britain 1851–75, Flamingo, 1985.
Diccon Bewes, Swiss Watching: Inside the Land of Milk and Money, 2nd edn, Nicholas Brealey Publishing, 2012.
Diccon Bewes, Swisscellany: Facts and Figures about Switzerland, Bergli Books, 2012.
Margrit Bodmer-Jenny & Rudolf Gallati, From Interlaken with Love, Ott Verlag, 1986.
George Bradshaw, Bradshaw’s Handbook 1863, Old House, 2010.
R. James Breiding, Swiss Made, Profile Books, 2013.
Piers Brendon, Thomas Cook, Secker & Warburg, 1991.
W. Catrina, P. Krebs, B. Moser & R. Rettner, Jungfraujoch: Top of Europe, AS Verlag, 2011.
Clive H. Church & Randolph C. Head, A Concise History of Switzerland, Cambridge, 2013.
Ronald W. Clark, The Day the Rope Broke, Mara Books, 2008.
Beverly Cole, Trains: The Early Years, H. Fullmann, 2011.
Ann C. Colley, Victorians in the Mountains, Ashgate, 2010.
Arthur Conan Doyle, The Final Problem, Strand Magazine, 1893.
Thomas Cook, Guide to Cook’s Tours in France, Switzerland & Italy,
Thomas Cook Ltd, 1865. Thomas Cook, Cook’s Tourist’s Handbook to Switzerland, Thomas Cook Ltd, 1874.
Ed Douglas, Mountaineer, Dorling Kindersley, 2011.
Matthew Engel, Eleven Minutes Late, Pan Macmillan, 2009.
Karen Farrington, Great Victorian Railway Journeys, Collins, 2012.
Henry Gaze, Switzerland: How to See it for Ten Guineas, W. Kent, 1862.
Gérard Geiger (ed.), 1291–1991: The Swiss Economy, SQP Publications, 1991.
H. B. George, The Oberland and Its Glaciers: Explored and Illustrated with Ice-Axe and Camera, Unwin Brothers, 1866.
Jill Hamilton, Thomas Cook: The Holiday-Maker, Sutton Publishing, 2005.
Adam Hart-Davis, What the Victorians Did for Us, Headline, 2001.
K. Theodore Hoppen, The Mid-Victorian Generation 1846–1886, Clarendon Press, 1998.
Arnold Lunn, Switzerland and the English, Eyre & Spottiswoode, 1945.
Jemima Morrell, Miss Jemima’s Swiss Journal, Putnam, 1963.
Richard Mullen & James Munson, The Smell of the Continent, Macmillan, 2009.
John Murray (ed.), A Handbook of Travel-Talk,
John Murray, 1858. John Murray III, A Handbook for Travellers in Switzerland, and the Alps of Savoy and Piedmont: 9th edition, John Murray, 1861.
Jim Ring, How the English Made the Alps, John Murray, 2000.
Ralph Roman Rossberg, The Jungfrau Region, Hallwag, 1991.
Alan Sillitoe, Leading the Blind: A Century of Guidebook Travel 1815–1911, Bookcase Editions, 2004.
Jonathan Steinberg, Why Switzerland?, Cambridge University Press, 1996.
Edmund Swinglehurst, Cook’s Tours, Blandford Press, 1982.
Matthew Teller, The Rough Guide to Switzerland, Rough Guides, 2010.
Mark Twain, A Tramp Abroad, Penguin, 1998.
Christian Wolmar, Fire and Steam, Atlantic Books, 2007.
John Wraight, The Swiss and the British, Michael Russell, 1987.
Railways in the Bernese Oberland, Photoglob, 2001.
Switzerland: 1st edition, Baedeker, 1863.
The Kandersteg Story, Altels Verlag, 2001.
The Railway Traveller’s Handy Book 1862, Old House, 2012.
The Rough Guide to France, Rough Guides, 2011.
UNWTO Tourism Highlights, World Tourism Organisation, 2012.
BOOKS IN GERMAN
Georges Andrey, Schweizer Geschichte für Dummies, Wiley, 2009.
Hans Brugger, Die schweizerische Landwirtschaft 1850–1914, Huber Verlag, 1978.
Bundesamt für Statistik, Statistisches Jahrbuch der Schweiz 2012, NZZ Verlag, 2012.
Agnès Couzy et al., Legendäre Reisen in den Alpen, Frederking & Thaler, 2007.
Arthur Fibicher, Walliser Geschichte Band 3.1, Sitten, 1993.
Roland Flückiger-Seiler, Hotel Paläste: zwischen Traum und Wirklichkeit, Hier+Jetzt, 2003.
Roland Flückiger-Seiler, Hotel Träume: zwischen Gletschern und Palmen, Hier+Jetzt, 2005.
Thomas Frey & Hans-Ulrich Schiedt, Monetäre Reisekosten in der Schweiz 1850–1910 – Wie viel Arbeitszeit kostet die Freizeitmobilität?, in Hans-Jörg Gilomen et al. (eds), Freizeit und Vergnügen vom 14. bis zum 20. Jahrhundert (Reihe: Schweizerische Gesellschaft für Wirtschafts- und Sozialgeschichte – Société Suisse d’histoire économique et sociale 20), Via Storia, 2005.
Rudolf Gallati, Aarmühle Interlaken: Eine Ortsgeschichte, Verlag Schlaefli, 1991.
Louis Gaulis & René Creux, Schweizer Pioniere der Hotellerie, Editions de Fontainemore, 1976.
Albert Hauser, Das Neue kommt: Schweizer Alltag im 19. Jahrhundert, NZZ Verlag, 1989.
Dr Joseph Hardegger et al., Das Werden der modernen Schweiz 1798–1914, Lehrmittelverlag des Kantons Basel Stadt, 1986.
Adi Kälin, Rigi: Mehr als ein Berg, Hier+Jetzt, 2012.
Christine Kehrli-Moser, Rosenlaui, 2012.
Markus Klenner, Eisenbahn und Politk 1758–1914, WUV Universitätsverlag, 2002.
Markus Krebser, Interlaken, Verlag Krebser Thun, 1990.
Dr Louis Largo & Peter Salzmann, Thermen im Wallis, Mengis Druck, 2012.
Thomas Maissen, Geschichte der Schweiz, Hier+Jetzt, 2010.
Ruth Reinecke-Dahinden, Die Rigi, Sutton Verlag, 2011.
Heiner Ritzmann-Blickenstorfer & Hansjörg Siegenthaler (Hg.), Historische Statistik der Schweiz, Chronos-Verlag, 1996.
Christian Schütt (Hg.), Chronik der Schweiz, Chronik Verlag & Ex Libris Verlag, 1987.
F.A. Volmar, Die erste Eisenbahn der Berner Oberlandes, Haupt Verlag, 1946.
Hans G. Wägli, Schienennetz der Schweiz, AS Verlag, 2010.
Felix Weber, 175 Jahre Rigi Kulm Hotel, Familie Käppeli, 1991.
Christoph Wyss, 100 Jahre Tourismus-Organisation Interlaken, Schlaefli & Maurer, 2009.
Ein Jahrhundert Schweizer Bahnen 1847–1947, Eidgenössisches Amt für Verkehr, 1947.
Schweiz: 9e Auflage, Baedeker, 1862.
Schweizer Tourismusstatistik, Bundesamt für Statistik, 2011.
LIST OF ILL
USTRATIONS AND PICTURE CREDITS
Front cover
Lötschberg Bergstrecke, Colombi, 1937 (BLS AG Archive)
Back cover
Die Eiserne Thurbrücke, Ansicht von Osten gegen Andelfingen, 1857 (Zentralbibliothek Zürich, Graphische Sammlung und Fotoarchiv; hereinafter Zentralbibliothek Zürich)
Traversée de la Mer de Glace (Zentralbibliothek Zürich)
Giessbach, Rudolf Dickenmann, steel-engraving, 1879 (© Collection Niklaus and Elsbeth Wyss-Burger, Unterseen)
Guide to Cook’s Tours in France, Switzerland and Italy, 1865 (Thomas Cook archives)
Front flap
Miss Jemima’s Swiss Journal, 1963 (Thomas Cook archives)
Back flap
Author photo (Simon Whitehead, www.threebythree.ch)
iv
Die Eiserne Thurbrücke, Ansicht von Osten gegen Andelfingen, 1857 (Zentralbibliothek Zürich)
xi
Route map (Miss Jemima’s Swiss Journal, 1963, Thomas Cook archives)
xviii
Title page from Miss Jemima’s original diary (Thomas Cook archives)
2
Junior United Alpine Club group photo (Thomas Cook archives)
5
William Morrell (Thomas Cook archives)
5
Jemima Morrell (Thomas Cook archives)
6
Jemima Morrell & her parents (Richard Moody/Peter Williamson)
10
Thomas Cook (Thomas Cook archives)
18
Advert from A Handbook for Travellers in Switzerland, and the Alps of Savoy and Piedmont, John Murray, 9th edition, 1861
32
Geneva page (taken from Miss Jemima’s original diary, Thomas Cook archives)
37
Gare Cornavin, Geneva (BGE, Centre d’iconographie genevoise)
43
Adverts from A Handbook for Travellers in Switzerland, and the Alps of Savoy and Piedmont, John Murray, 9th edition, 1861
45
Souvenir of Geneva (BGE, Centre d’iconographie genevoise)
53
Pont du Mont-Blanc and Lake Geneva (Thomas Cook archives)
54
Hotel de La Couronne, Geneva (BGE, Centre d’iconographie genevoise)
57
A diligence (Thomas Cook archives)
59
View from St Martin (taken from Miss Jemima’s original diary, Thomas Cook archives)
66
Chamonix, le mauvais pas et le Mer de Glace (Zentralbibliothek Zürich)
76
Hotel Royal in Chamonix and Mont Blanc, c1860 (© Musée Alpin de Chamonix Collection – All rights reserved)
86
Hiking over the Mer de Glace (Thomas Cook archives)
89
Mer de Glace, c1860 (© Musée Alpin de Chamonix Collection – All rights reserved)
93
Chamonix, le mauvais pas et le Mer de Glace (Zentralbibliothek Zürich)
96
Vue Grand Bain, Leukerbad (Thermen im Wallis)
99
Crossing over the Alps (Thomas Cook archives)
101
Tête Noire pass (taken from Miss Jemima’s original diary, Thomas Cook archives)
108
Die Eiserne Thurbrücke, Ansicht von Osten gegen Andelfingen, 1857 (Zentralbibliothek Zürich)
110
Sion, Vue Générale, Laurent Deroy, um 1845 (Zentralbibliothek Zürich)
112
Sion (taken from Miss Jemima’s original diary, Thomas Cook archives)
120
Leukerbad centre (Thomas Cook archives)
125
Leukerbad und Balmhorn (Thermen im Wallis)
130
Bernese Oberland page (taken from Miss Jemima’s original diary, Thomas Cook archives)
133
A mountain path on horseback (Thomas Cook archives)
140
Schwarenbach Inn, Gemmi Pass (Thomas Cook archives)
145
Hotel de l’Ours, Kandersteg (Thomas Cook archives)
150
Tunnelarbeiter beim Vollausbruch (BLS AG Archive)
153
E 3/3 Nr 2 (oder Nr 3, je nach Quelle) der Gürbetalbahn im Kandertal Station Aeschi/Heustrich mit Gepäckwagen F44 und zwei zweitklassigen Personenwagen (BLS AG Archive)
160
Interlaken mit Jungfrau (Zentralbibliothek Zürich)
163
Horse-drawn omnibus (Thomas Cook archives)
166
Chute du Staubbach prise à l’entrée du village de Lauterbrunnen, Gabriel Lory fils, engraving c1820 (© Collection Niklaus and Elsbeth Wyss-Burger, Unterseen)
169
Souvenir d’Interlaken, Krüsi, steel-engraving, 1855 (© Collection Niklaus and Elsbeth Wyss-Burger, Unterseen)
172
Höhematte, Interlaken (Thomas Cook archives)
175
Unterseen, Barnard, coloured lithography, c1850 (© Collection Niklaus and Elsbeth Wyss-Burger, Unterseen)
176
Hotel Central & Continental postcard (Interlaken Tourism)
179
Hotel Victoria-Jungfrau, Interlaken (Hotel Victoria-Jungfrau archive)
183
Dampflok der WAB in Grindelwald, im Hintergrund Wetterhorn (BLS AG Archive)
185
Station Eismeer Ausbruch, 1903 (Jungfraubahn archives)
190
Bahnen der Jungfrau Region Postkarte (Jungfraubahn archives)
192
Glacier inférieur de Grindelwald, Franziska Möllinger, coloured lithography after a daguerrotype, 1844 (© Collection Niklaus and Elsbeth Wyss-Burger, Unterseen)
196
Hôtel de l’Aigle Noir, title of a hotel bill c1870, lithographie (© Collection Christoph Wyss, Unterseen)
197
Grindelwald, Rudolf Dickenmann, steel-engraving, c1860 (© Collection Niklaus and Elsbeth Wyss-Burger, Unterseen)
199
Glacier cave (taken from Miss Jemima’s original diary, Thomas Cook archives)
211
Interlaken Ost boat station (Thomas Cook archives)
212
Hotel du Lac, Interlaken (Familie Hofmann)
215
DS Brienz in Interlaken Ost (BLS AG Archive)
217
Giessbach, Rudolf Dickenmann, steel-engraving, 1879 (© Collection Niklaus and Elsbeth Wyss-Burger, Unterseen)
222
Brünigbahn-Einschnitt, Verlag Chr. Brennenstuhl, Meyringen, Nr. 11 (Sammlung Joachim Biemann)
228
Die Luzern-Rigi-Bahn von Vitznau nach Rigi-Kulm, Corradi, 1877 (Zentralbibliothek Zürich)
231
Lion of Lucerne postcard (Diccon Bewes)
233
Lucerne and Pilatus (Thomas Cook archives)
235
Luzern & Rigi (Zentralbibliothek Zürich)
236
Rigi Bahn (Thomas Cook archives)
242
Die Luftbahn auf dem Rigi, 1864 (Zentralbibliothek Zürich)
251
Rigi Sonnenaufgang, 1875 (Zentral- und Hochschulbibliothek Luzern, Sondersammlung)
256
Le port et la ville de Neuchâtel, vers 1870-1875 (045PHO-4.3) (AEN, Archives de l’Etat de Neuchâtel)
262
Guestbook entry from Hotel Rigi Kulm (Familie Käppeli)
264
Cook’s Tourist’s Handbook to Switzerland, 1874 (Thomas Cook archives)
272
Adverts from Guide to Cook’s Tours in France, Switzerland and Italy, 1865 (Thomas Cook archives)
281
Illustration by Jemima Morrell from The History and Antiquities of Selby by William Wilberforce Morrell, Whittaker & Co, 1867
282
Reverend William Leir, 1768-1863 (Diccon Bewes)
THANKS
Four years ago I first met Miss Jemima, three years ago I had the idea for a book, two years ago I set off in her footsteps, one ye
ar ago the idea became a reality. It’s been a long journey to reach this point and I’ve had a lot of help along the way.
Without Paul Smith, the archivist at Thomas Cook, almost none of this would have been possible; or at least it would have been seriously less interesting. He knows more than is healthy about Cook history and patiently shared and discussed the finer points of nineteenth-century travel.
All the team at Switzerland Tourism in London, but particularly Marcelline Kuonen and Heidi Reisz, were a constant source of support and encouragement, not least on the long, hot days at the House of Switzerland during the London Olympics. Thanks also to everyone at the various local tourist boards and archives who have put up with my detailed questions and odd requests, especially Fabian Appenzeller in Lucerne, David Kestens in Leukerbad, Alice Leu in Interlaken, Anne-Sophie Perrin in Chamonix, Stephan Römer in Grindelwald and Doris Wandfluh in Kandersteg.
A special thank-you to Daniela Fuchs at Jungfraubahn, Anita Grossniklaus at BLS, Ernst Hofmann at the Hotel du Lac, Caroline Kälin at the Hotel Victoria-Jungfrau, Renate Käppeli at the Hotel Rigi Kulm, Didier Plaschy at Via Storia, Alice Robinson at the Zentralbibliothek Zürich, Julia Slater at swissinfo.ch, Bryan Stone and Malcolm Bulpitt at the Swiss Railways Society, Peter Williamson at Inntravel and Christoph Wyss at the Touristik-Museum der Jungfrau-Region.
And thanks to all those who helped me get this far with this project: Louise Atkinson, Joachim Biemann, Karen Davies, Christine Falcombello, Jane Fuhrimann-Greenaway, Tony Helyar, Silvia Hess, Dagmar Hexel, Carola Klein, Anthony Lambert, Michael Murphy, Catherine Nelson Pollard, Marcela Quezada, Daniel Pedroletti, Ruth Reinecke, Peter Salzmann, Janet Skeslien Charles, Beatrice Tschirren, Dirk Vaihinger, Kathy van Reusel, Christina Warren, Markus Williner.