In the home kitchen, people often have no idea what to do with their spice rack and it’s very hard to keep track of the spices’ freshness. What’s beautiful with Lior is that he uses the freshest spices available so that each jar promises to deliver a unique addition to a preparation, and it is as fragrant and complex as possible.
I suspect much of Lior’s passion for spices and, perhaps, his calculated restraint with them has also come from his time working with chef Olivier Roellinger in France. Roellinger’s erudition on the topic was quite evidently passed down to Lior, who is now sharing his wealth of knowledge through this book. As you turn each page, you’ll discover the effect his work has had on numerous chefs through the recipes they’ve created with Lior’s blends. And you’ll begin to understand how spices can enhance everything from an elaborate dish to a sweet-and-savory dessert or a simple cocktail.
I am very proud to be one of Lior’s mentors and friends and admire what he has accomplished with La Boîte in New York City. He is well respected by his peers and the chefs who know him best, and I love how he mixes his soul and passion for spices and art. I hope he continues to entertain our palates and our appreciation for spices and, more importantly, that we can cook together more often.
—DANIEL BOULUD
ISPHAHAN Omani, loomi, noomi basra, black lemon: The key ingredient of this Persian-inspired blend has as many culinary uses as it has names. A tribute to an ancient style of cooking, Isphahan N.1 pays homage to the traditions of harvesting this thick-skinned, low-acid green lime in peak season and storing it for year-round use. The limes are picked at their freshest, then boiled in salt and laid out to dry under the heat of the sun. Although this process creates what looks like tiny tan or black pebbles, the lime reveals itself as a musky, smoky, sour and bitter ingredient that enhances soups, stews, rice, broths and cups of tea. Combined with green cardamom and garlic in this blend, it embodies the spirit of Persian cuisine and its depth of flavors bound by history.
Recipe Ideas
-1- Add 2 tsp Isphahan per cup of water or chicken stock and use to cook rice pilaf, couscous or risotto.
-2- Season broccoli rabe with olive oil, salt, pepper and Isphahan; grill until tender.
-3- Sauté baby spinach with a pinch of Isphahan; use as a base for creamed spinach.
Also Great With
roast chicken
* * *
grilled calamari
* * *
lentil stew
* * *
glazed turnips
* * *
chicken-noodle soup
Recipe from Gavin Kaysen, Café Boulud, New York City
This recipe is a real tribute to Persian cuisine. The dried lime peel in the Isphahan N.1 spice blend has an intense, sweet-citrusy flavor that enhances both the couscous and the quick marinade for the fish.
INGREDIENTS
MAKES 4 SERVINGS
2 tablespoons plus 11⁄2 teaspoons Isphahan N.1 spice blend
1⁄4 cup plus 1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil
Finely grated zest of one lemon
4 skin-on black bass or branzino fillets, about 4 ounces each
1 white onion, cut into 1⁄4-inch dice (about 1 cup)
Salt and freshly ground pepper
1 red bell pepper, cut into 1⁄4-inch dice (about 3⁄4 cup)
1 yellow bell pepper, cut into 1⁄4-inch dice (about 3⁄4 cup)
1 fennel bulb, cored and cut into 1⁄4-inch dice (about 1 cup)
11⁄2 cups vegetable stock
1⁄2 teaspoon ground turmeric
2 cups instant couscous
Finely grated zest of one orange
INSTRUCTIONS
Marinate the fish: In a bowl, whisk together 2 tablespoons of Isphahan spice blend, 2 tablespoons of olive oil and the lemon zest. Place the marinade and the fish in a large, resealable plastic bag or baking dish and refrigerate for 30 minutes.
In a large skillet, heat 2 tablespoons of olive oil over medium-low heat. Add the onion, season with salt and pepper and cook until the onion becomes translucent, about 5 minutes. Add the bell peppers and fennel and cook until the vegetables are soft, about 10 to 15 minutes.
Meanwhile, in a medium saucepan, bring the vegetable stock to a simmer and add the remaining 11⁄2 teaspoons of Isphahan and the turmeric; season with salt and pepper. Once the vegetables are ready, add the simmering stock and couscous. Stir and turn off the heat. Cover with a lid and set aside for 5 minutes, then gently fluff the couscous with a fork and stir in the orange zest. Season to taste with salt and pepper.
Using a sharp knife, cut the peel and white pith from the lemon and orange. Working over a bowl, cut between the membranes to release the citrus segments. Discard any pits and cut the citrus segments to 1⁄8-inch pieces. Squeeze the remaining juice into the bowl. Add the remaining 1 tablespoon of olive oil, season with salt and pepper and set aside.
Preheat the oven to 350° and line a rimmed baking sheet with parchment paper. Season both sides of the fish with salt and pepper and place in a baking sheet, skin side down. Bake the fish until cooked through, about 5 to 8 minutes.
Divide the couscous among four plates and top each with a piece of fish. Spoon some of the citrus dressing over the fish and serve.
AMBER The warm glow of a fire and the sweet-smoky scent of a barbecue inspired this blend of annatto seed, brown sugar, mace and chile, which was created for chef Laurent Tourondel’s BLT restaurant in New York. The color of this blend encourages a passion for using what comes from the earth. The vibrant shades of orange and red from the annatto seed have long been used for coloring everything from mustards and Gouda cheese to cosmetics and textiles—even Mayan war paint. Today, unfortunately, annatto is a neglected spice and doesn’t get the attention it deserves. Amber N.2 reintroduces the seed to restaurant chefs and home cooks alike, who can use it to add a depth of flavor to marinades and roasted vegetables and a lovely caramelized crust to grilled meats.
Recipe Ideas
-1- Toss pecans in melted butter, sprinkle with Amber and bake until golden.
-2- Fold into softened butter and season with salt to make a compound butter. Serve with roasted meat or fish.
-3- Mix with dark rum and use as a marinade for grilled pineapple slices.
Also Great With
barbecue ribs
* * *
grilled pork chops
* * *
grilled shrimp
* * *
bean chili
* * *
roasted fingerling potatoes
Recipe from Elizabeth Karmel, Hill Country Barbecue, New York City and Washington, D.C.
I love the simple idea of seasoning a chicken and barbecuing or roasting it on a can of your favorite beer; the result is a very juicy and deeply flavorful bird. The brown sugar and chile in the Amber N.2 spice blend create a sweet and savory caramelization on the chicken and flavor the juices that are released during cooking, which the sweet potatoes then soak up.
INGREDIENTS
MAKES 4 SERVINGS
1 whole roasting chicken, 4 to 5 pounds, preferably organic
Extra-virgin olive oil
1⁄4 cup Amber N.2 spice blend, divided
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
One 12-ounce can beer
2 medium sweet potatoes—washed, halved and cut crosswise into 1⁄2-inch pieces
INSTRUCTIONS
Rinse the chicken inside and out and pat dry with paper towels. Coat the chicken lightly with oil and season all over with 2 tablespoons of Amber spice blend and salt and pepper. Set aside.
Build a charcoal fire, preheat a gas grill or preheat an oven to 350°. Open the beer can, pour out (or drink) about 1⁄4 cup of the beer and make an extra hole in the top of the can with a church-key can opener. Sp
rinkle 1 tablespoon of the Amber inside the beer can. Place the beer can in a baking dish and position the chicken on top of the beer can. Place the dish in the oven or on the center of the cooking grate over indirect medium heat.
Cover the grill and cook the chicken (or roast in the oven) for about 11⁄2 hours or until the internal temperature in the breast area registers 165° on an instant-read thermometer (180° in the thigh).
While the chicken cooks, toss the sweet potatoes in a bowl with the remaining 1 tablespoon of Amber and 2 tablespoons of olive oil. Season with salt and pepper. Add the sweet potatoes to the baking pan with the chicken for the final 45 minutes of cooking, turning the potatoes a few times.
Holding the can with tongs, carefully transfer the chicken to a platter. Let the chicken rest for 10 minutes before carving and serving with the sweet potatoes.
BOMBAY What began as a need to make a curry blend for my cookies became a surprising combination of flavors. Although this blend isn’t typically used in desserts, I am constantly discovering its versatility. As a more floral curry, it’s approachable for everyday cooking and a pleasant option for those who don’t usually enjoy overwhelmingly spicy varieties of curry. Incorporating Bombay N.3, with its sharp and subtly spicy nuances, into my biscuits with dates made them an unexpected success. Since then, chefs such as Daniel Boulud have added this sweet-scented spice mixture to their repertoires. Thanks to Daniel’s “Bombay Fire” cocktail, curry crab salad and coconut geleé dessert, my curry blend with two types of turmeric (Madras and Alleppey), fenugreek and clove has influenced dishes far beyond the realm of traditional Indian cuisine.
Recipe Ideas
-1- Toss shredded chicken with plain yogurt and Bombay to make a quick curried-chicken salad.
-2- Blend with mayonnaise, lime and Tabasco sauce for a dip to serve with fried fish or raw vegetables.
-3- Toss with cauliflower florets, olive oil and lemon juice and roast until golden brown.
Also great with
grilled lamb chops
* * *
crab salad
* * *
deviled eggs
* * *
fried rice
* * *
mango and banana smoothie
Recipe from Yoram Nitzan, Mul Yam, Tel Aviv, Israel
Yoram Nitzan is one of Israel’s food pioneers. At Mul Yam, he serves the freshest seafood he can source and treats it with the utmost respect. This elegant dish shows off the sweet, fragrant notes of the Bombay N.3 spice blend, which Nitzan marries with lemongrass and cream to create a delicate curry sauce.
INGREDIENTS
MAKES 6 SERVINGS
1⁄2 cup plus 3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1⁄2 cup finely chopped shallot
3 tablespoons Bombay N.3 spice blend
3 stalks lemongrass (bottom few inches only), sliced crosswise into 1⁄4-inch pieces (about 1 cup)
1 cup dry white wine
2 cups heavy cream
Salt and coarsely ground white pepper
2 heads baby bok choy
1⁄2 pound plum tomatoes, seeded and cut into 1⁄4-inch dice (11⁄2 cups)
1 tablespoon thinly sliced basil leaves
1 tablespoon finely chopped cilantro leaves
2 teaspoons fresh lemon juice
1 pound shiitake mushrooms, sliced 1⁄2-inch thick
10 white or green asparagus stalks, trimmed and cut on the bias into 1⁄4-inch slices
Six 6-ounce portions boneless, skinless turbot
INSTRUCTIONS
In a small saucepan, heat 1 tablespoon of the olive oil over medium-low heat. Add the shallot and cook until softened, about 2 minutes. Add 2 tablespoons of Bombay spice blend and the lemongrass and cook for another minute. Add the wine and reduce the liquid by half. Add the heavy cream and season with salt and cracked white pepper. Simmer over low heat until the liquid has reduced by one-third, about 15 minutes. Strain through a fine-mesh sieve and set aside.
Bring a pot of salted water to a boil and prepare an ice bath. Blanch the bok choy for 1 minute, then shock in the ice bath. Drain and thinly slice the bok choy.
In a small saucepan, heat 1⁄2 cup of the olive oil with 1 tablespoon Bombay over low heat for 4 minutes; set aside.
In a bowl, toss the tomatoes with the basil, cilantro and lemon juice and season to taste with salt and pepper.
In a skillet, warm 1 tablespoon of the olive oil over medium-high heat and add the mushrooms and asparagus. Cook for about 3 minutes or until tender. Add the bok choy, season with salt and pepper and cook for 2 minutes.
In a second skillet, warm the remaining tablespoon of olive oil until lightly smoking. Season the fish with salt and pepper and cook over medium-high heat until cooked through, about 1 to 2 minutes per side. Remove the fish and set aside.
Divide the vegetables among plates and place the fish on top. Spoon the tomatoes on top of the fish. Spoon some of the cream sauce over the fish, drizzle with some of the Bombay-infused oil and serve.
LUBERON The vision of endless fields of lavender and the pastoral countryside of Luberon is my fondest memory of Provence. A place lush with fresh basil, thyme, savory and fennel is actually best known for its dried herbs. For me, this coarse blend addresses two common misconceptions about lavender: that it’s only good for soap, and that fresh herbs are always better than dried. Used in moderation, the dried lavender flower brings subtle floral notes and unexpected texture to lamb, roasted vegetables, poultry and even my sablé biscuits. Dried herbs offer adaptability that fresh simply cannot, especially as fresh herbs wilt and turn brown when exposed to the heat. Luberon N.4 is my expression of a traditional herbes de Provence.
Recipe Ideas
-1- Combine 3 tbsp Luberon with 1/2 cup olive oil and use to marinate a whole leg of lamb for roasting.
-2- Roll a log of fresh goat cheese in Luberon and serve with crackers or bread.
-3- Simmer 2 tsp Luberon with 1 cup of pitted dates and 3/4 cup port and purée until smooth; serve with grilled chicken or pork.
Also great with
chicken cutlets
* * *
whole-roasted branzino
* * *
ratatouille
* * *
strawberry salad
* * *
shortbread cookies
Recipe from Justin Smillie, Il Buco Alimentari & Vineria, New York City
Since he’s a big, tall guy, I don’t argue with Justin—but more so because he’s a great chef who has learned to embrace spices in a variety of cuisines. This recipe shows that lavender, which is a main component of my Luberon N.4 spice blend, can be a great addition to many dishes, including braised chicken. A lot of people eschew dried herbs in favor of fresh, but this recipe demonstrates how dried herbs can be better in slow-cooked dishes.
INGREDIENTS
MAKES 6 SERVINGS
12 bone-in chicken thighs, with skin Kosher salt
3 tablespoons Luberon N.4 spice blend, divided
3 slices bacon, cut crosswise into 1⁄4-inch pieces
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for drizzling
2 small red onions, thinly sliced (about 4 cups)
6 garlic cloves, thinly sliced
2 cups white wine
2 cups chicken stock
10 Peppadew peppers, cut into 1⁄4-inch slices
1⁄4 cup finely chopped parsley
3 tablespoons thinly sliced preserved lemon
INSTRUCTIONS
Season the chicken all over with 1 tablespoon of salt and 2 tablespoons of the Luberon spice blend. Transfer the chicken to a plate, cover loosely with plastic and refrigerate overnight.
In a Dutch oven or large skillet, cook the bacon over medium heat until crisp, about 8 minutes. Transfer the bacon to paper towels, leaving the fat in the pan. Add 1 tablespoon of the olive oil to the skillet, then add the
chicken, skin side down (you may need to work in batches). Cook the chicken, turning once, until browned on both sides, about 10 minutes. Transfer the chicken to a platter, leaving the fat in the pan.
Add the onions, garlic and the remaining tablespoon of Luberon to the skillet and cook over medium-low heat, stirring occasionally, until golden brown, about 15 minutes. Deglaze with the wine, scraping up any browned bits from the bottom of the skillet with a wooden spoon.
The Art of Blending: Stories and Recipes from La Boîte's Spice Journey Page 2