Windows: If you have any leftover from a remodeling project or can snag them from a friend or neighbor, they are excellent for fashioning a homemade mini-greenhouse or cold frame.
Doors: Prop them up on sawhorses for a makeshift table or workbench.
A word of caution – this can be somewhat addicting. You may find yourself loathe to throw away anything, for fear you might have a use for it...someday. Left unchecked, this might lead you to a starring role on “Hoarders”. Saving things from going to the landfill is a laudable goal, as long as your home doesn’t end up looking like a landfill itself. Fortunately, many of us have spouses or other family members who will help keep things from getting out of hand.
Jim Cobb is a freelance writer, survivalist, and licensed private investigator residing in the Upper Midwest. He is the owner of http://www.survivalweekly.com/. Jim can be contacted via email to [email protected].
How to Build an Earthbag Survival Shelter
by Owen Geiger
Earthbag building has its origin in military sand bag building. For about 250 years, militaries have been building blast and bulletproof structures out of sand bags. Also, sand bags have been used for many years for flood control. Today, builders are using the same basic process of filling and stacking bags to build a wide variety of structures the world over - unique homes, offices, shops, schools and more. They’re flood resistant, earthquake resistant (passed two ICBO shake table tests), bullet and blast resistant, and now engineer and code approved plans are available.
A big reason for the growing popularity of earthbag building is its low cost. You can build small domes or shelters for under $1,000. For $1,000-$5,000 you could have a nice, small home that would likely outlast most conventional wood-framed houses, and be quieter and more comfortable. Our 18’ exterior diameter roundhouse, for instance, cost about $2,000. Because of the similarity with the survival shelter, I highly suggest reading my free article How to Build an Earthbag Roundhouse. (http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-Build-an-Earthbag-Roundhouse)
Specialized techniques have been developed to make earthbag building much stronger than just stacking bags at random. Sand bags usually contain sand or loose, dry soil. But earthbag building typically uses a mix of slightly moist clay and aggregates that bind together and become extremely strong and durable when tamped solid. This is comparable to compressed earth or rammed earth that can last thousands of years.
In addition, earthbag structures usually have barbed wire between courses and a reinforced concrete bond beam at the top of walls. Additional steps are used in seismic regions, including placing plaster mesh on both sides of walls, rebar pins in key locations, buttressing, and so on as conditions require.
When I designed this survival shelter, I had four key concepts in mind: practicality, simplicity, safety and cost. Each concept is discussed in more detail below.
Practicality
Round structures enclose more space for a given amount of materials. There are no dead corners or wasted space. Round earthbag structures are the easiest shape to build. Poly tubes (the easiest and fastest method) or poly bags (lower cost if recycled and suitable for someone working alone) are easily shaped into curved or round shapes.
Simplicity
Another main advantage is simplicity of construction. What could be simpler than filling and stacking bags of earth? Almost everything you need to know is freely available on the Internet. The main skills can be learned in a few minutes simply by being shown or watching a video. My Natural Houses YouTube Channel shows all steps of construction. And most people already have the basic tools around the house - shovels, buckets, garden hose, ladder. The other few tools required can be easily made or purchased inexpensively.
Safety
Round structures are inherently stronger than rectilinear structures. This means the enormous forces of soil against walls below grade (many tons of pressure) will be transferred around the structure. This concept is often stated; “round is sound.”
However, you always want to take precautions during construction when digging below grade to prevent collapse. Dry soil can collapse. Also, a heavy rain can cause a sudden cave-in. It’s best to angle or step the sides so the top is wider than the bottom. The exact angle will depend on your type of soil. Sandy or loose soil is more unstable than clayey soil and requires extra care. Loose soil that’s prone to collapse will need shoring with plywood and stakes or additional excavation to create a lower angle. You could also temporarily reinforce sloped or angled sides with earthbags, although this would add to the cost and labor.
The other hazard is soil on the roof. Two feet of soil – the maximum recommended amount -- is very heavy, and so you’ll want to use strong wood that’s been carefully selected and is free of rot, insect damage and other defects. In addition, follow the guidelines below to ensure the wood stays dry to prevent rot.
Cost
Earthbag building is one of the lowest cost building systems in the world. Earth is probably the least expensive building material (literally dirt-cheap). Excavated soil can typically be used to fill bags. Most subsoils – the soil below the fertile topsoil – work fine. Test your soil by making a test bag. It should dry nearly rock hard. You may have to add some sand if the soil is too clayey or add some clay if the soil is too sandy. Exact proportions are not required, but you want enough clay to bind the aggregates into a solid mass.
Another cost cutting measure is using recycled bags from farmers. Make sure they’ve been stored out of sunlight. Test at least one bag to be sure they’re still strong. You can also buy misprinted bags from suppliers to save money. Using locally available wood, tamped earth floor and earthen plaster will further reduce costs and minimize shipping of materials. No plaster is needed on the outside of the shelter, only one or two layers of 6 mil plastic sheeting to protect walls from moisture.
Survival Shelter specifications: 20’ interior diameter (314 sq. ft. interior plus pantry), Footprint: 23’ x 31’
Description: This round earthbag shelter for up to 4-5 individuals is designed for survival through disaster, plague, etc. It is low cost, durable and practical. This shelter is designed for DIYers on a tight budget who will do most everything by hand. Instructions include numerous key details not evident on the plan: venting, roof framing, how to reduce excavation by 50%, drainage, water supply, etc. I have not seen a better, more practical survival shelter plan.
Things you will need:
● Shovel
● Bucket
● Garden hose
● Wheelbarrow
● Gravel
● Soil
● Earthbags (sand bags)
● Barbed wire
● Wire cutters
● Level
Most earthbag projects use 18” wide x 30” long bags when measured empty. Misprinted bags and recycled bags from farmers and feed stores are often available at reduced prices. You can also use poly tubes if you have 1-2 helpers. In addition, you’ll need a tamper to compact the bags and a slider to help place bags on top of barbed wire. Tampers are sold at large building supply centers, or you can make one yourself using the free plans on our website (http://earthbagbuilding.wordpress.com) A slider looks similar to a cookie sheet, but with a larger grip on one end. Again, free plans are on our website.
Summary of Building Process
Here are the basic building steps. In addition, be sure to read my detailed Step-by-Step Earthbag Building article at Instructables.com. This is the best article for learning the basic steps of earthbag building.
1. The first step is to prepare the building site. You want a level space clear of roots, rocks and other obstacles, and with enough space to work and pile materials. Remove and store topsoil for landscaping. Mark where the building will go with temporary stakes and then stockpile mounds of gravel and earth (and insulation if you’re building in extremely cold climates). For instance, you could put 1-2’ of scoria around the outside of the shelter to enhance ene
rgy efficiency. You may not need any soil if your soil is suitable. Distribute the piles evenly to minimize labor. Now you’re ready to stake out the building location. Check for plumb, square and level. Use a center stake and trace a circle in the earth using a length of twine. Locate where the plumbing will go and bury all plumbing lines before proceeding. The most laborious step is digging, so think hard about hiring a backhoe to speed the project along.
2. The easiest, least expensive foundation is a rubble trench. Expensive reinforced concrete foundations aren’t needed. You can save thousands of dollars on this step alone. Dig a trench slightly wider than the earthbag wall. Dig the trench about 18”-24” deep and add gravel, rocks or broken concrete to about 6” of grade. You want at least one course of bags below grade. In most climates, it’s best to add a French drain run to daylight or a ‘dry well’ to remove excess water.
Once the rubble trench is leveled, you’re ready to place the first course of bags. It’s recommended to double-bag the first few courses of gravel for added strength and peace of mind. Gravel prevents moisture from wicking up into upper courses. In cold climates you can use lava rock or pumice to create an insulated foundation.
3. Fill the bags about ¾ full and fold the end underneath. If money is tight, you can stitch the ends closed and save on bags. A ‘bucket chute’ (plastic bucket with the bottom cut out) acts like a funnel. It holds the bag open and makes it easier to fill. Tamp the bags flat after each row is complete. Add one or two strands of 4-point barbed wire between each course to prevent bag slippage. Bricks or rocks are helpful for keeping the wire in place. Use the slider starting on the second course. The slider allows you to position the bag above the barbed wire. When the bag is aligned, hold it in place and pull the slider out with a quick motion. Add courses until you’re at least 6” above the risk of moisture getting in the walls. Keep walls vertical by checking with a level. The center stake is used to verify roundness starting out. Later, use the center pole to guide the roundness. Slide the twine or stringline up the pole as you build the wall. It is best to keep earthbag walls protected from sunlight with tarps until plastered. UV damage is not much of an issue if you complete the structure within 6-8 weeks or so.
4. Set the center pole approximately 2’ deep. A rot resistant hardwood is recommended. Put several trash bags around the bottom of pole before burying. A large stone under the pole will add strength. Plumb and brace in position.
5. Now you’re ready to start building walls with soil-filled bags. Most subsoils are adequate and can be obtained from the site. Or you can have road base, reject fines or fill dirt delivered by the truckload and save many hours of hard labor. The best mix is about 25% clayey soil and 75% sandy soil. Stack the bags end to end with the folded end against the previous bag to prevent spillage. Tamp solid once each course is complete. Check each course for level. Adding the same quantity to each bag (example: 4 buckets of soil) helps maintain level. Repeat the above process for each course.
6. Set the two timber beams down the center, overlapping on the center pole with half lap joints. Pin through the joint with rebar into the center pole. Pin the ends that rest on the earthbag wall with rebar to prevent slippage.
7. Pour a steel reinforced concrete bond beam along the top of the wall. The top of the bond beam is equal to the top of the timber beam. Build the form with one or two layers of ¼” plywood. Pound vertical rebar into every bag and connect this to two pieces of ½” horizontal rebar that’s raised about 1” above the bags. Make the bond beam in one continuous pour so there are no cold joints. Extra help on this step will be a big help.
8. Set timber roof joists perpendicular to the timber beam. Pin in place with rebar at both ends. Level the top of joists in one plane the best you can with a chain saw, being careful not to remove too much wood.
9. Frame the hatch and install 2x4 decking. Tongue and groove is preferred but not essential.
10. Cover the roof with EPDM rubber membrane or two layers of 6 mil plastic sheeting. Protect with old carpet or cardboard to prevent tears when backfilling. EPDM is much more durable, but it’s very expensive and very heavy. Two layers of 6 mil poly are adequate on the sides. Restore the natural vegetation around the shelter as much as possible to camouflage the site. Shrubs around the entry hatch will conceal its location.
11. At this point you can plaster the walls on the inside. In most cases plaster mesh isn’t required. Earthen plaster is recommended because it’s low cost and simple to apply.
Conclusion
Virtually everything you need to build with earthbags is contained in my new book Earthbag Building Guide: Vertical Walls Step-by-Step. It’s a how-to builder’s guide with detailed instructions and about 175 color photos and drawings. In addition, we answer questions about earthbag building on our blog. Please use the search function before submitting questions, because most questions have already been answered.
Dr. Owen Geiger, Ph.D. is the former Director of Builders Without Borders and Founder and Director of the Geiger Research Institute of Sustainable Building (www.GRISB.org). He is an author, engineer and licensed contractor specializing in strawbale construction, earthbag and other types of sustainable building. He co-authored the Builders Without Borders Straw-Bale Construction Guides and contributed to Building Without Borders: Sustainable Construction for the Global Village.
Home Security and Invasion Counter Measures
by Chance Sanders
As a society, we like to think of our home as the one place we can relax and feel safe. When not at work, we spend the majority of our time at home. Our most valuable possessions are kept in our home. For most of us, that is our family. Yet, the majority of Americans give little thought to the actual security of their home. I hope to bring some solutions to often overlooked weak points in a home security plan.
The first thing we want to do is a complete threat assessment of our area. This should extend out into our local area where we conduct most of our activities. When doing a threat assessment, you should take into consideration the routes where you shop, eat and conduct business. I recommend getting to know your local law enforcement to get a real view of what’s going on in your area. Simple things such as an online search will give you list of all registered sex offenders in your area. It would be wise to purchase a police scanner and learn the 10 codes of law enforcement and emergency responders in your area. Also, purchase a street map and plot locations of nearby emergency responders in the event of disaster. After a short time, you will have a good idea of what’s going on and where threats to your home security are located. It is also important to know the distance from your home and the nearest police substation so you can estimate response time and where to drive if you are being pursued. For a SHTF situation, this map will be invaluable for plotting your exit route. Knowing where gangs are located and which direction they are likely to go in a civil unrest situation is vital.
After we look at our general area, it’s time to assess our home and property. You want to pay special attention to avenues of approach and egress as well as concealment. One way to do this is try to sneak up on your own house. Is there ample cover to move unseen to the house? Are there any dogs or nosey neighbors (which isn’t always a bad thing)? What about obstacles and lighting? Are you starting to see the picture? This should be done prior to and after any security upgrades. Most physical security countermeasures can be remedied by a trip to the local hardware store and at most a call to a fencing contractor. Expensive alarm systems require monitoring, a power source, and a dedicated response officer. Consider an alert dog to be a worthy replacement for such a system. Remember, you are always the first responder to any situation that may occur at your home. Be sure to conduct routine surveys of your property to determine any unauthorized activity. Cut fencing, tire marks, and litter (cigarette butts, food wrappers, drink cans) are all indicators of human activity. Consider installing cameras like those used to monitor game trails. Newer models allow them to be viewed remot
ely and less fancy versions are relatively inexpensive.
Now let’s look at the home itself. You want to ensure that you have ample lighting outside of your home. Try to avoid lighting that backlights you and instead blinds an intruder. You should position light fixtures where tampering would be both difficult and noticeable. Keep in mind a power failure would render these ineffective unless they have an independent power source.
Next on the list is a look at controlling entry into our home. As we all know, doors are a major weak spot in our homes physical security. Most residential doors can be defeated by a determined fifteen year old. A door that fits loosely in a frame is a serious security hazard. Consider replacing all exterior doors with one of solid core construction and ensure a proper tight fit as well as adding a strong mesh outer door. This will enable you to open the inner door without making yourself vulnerable to attack. This door should have a dead bolt lock as well. If this is not possible, then perhaps an intercom and/or a camera mounted discreetly facing the door would be a good alternative. Special attention must be given to the integrity of the doorframe and hinges. If the hinges face out towards the intruder, then all that is needed to defeat the door is a screwdriver. There are ways to prevent this such as drilling a small hole though the hinge itself and inserting a pin into the main hinge pin. Although they are not standard on most houses, an outward opening door will withstand being kicked in to a greater degree.
Locks are the first line of defense for most homes and as such they should be effectively integrated into other security and protection systems. Locks should be carefully considered and seen as an investment. The better quality designs and strength of materials should be considered for upgrading your doors’ locks. A phone call to your local locksmith will most likely give you a good recommendation for what locks you need. A strict control of keys is imperative to controlling access. Having a hidden lockbox with your homes key will prevent you from losing them and having to replace all of your keys. Locks are by no means foolproof and should be considered a delaying device. Paired with a motion alarm that will alert you to any presence around the general vicinity of the lock will serve as an early warning system. This will give you those precious few seconds to implement your response plan. A serviceable motion sensor can be reasonably purchased at your local hard ware store and painted to match your environment. These can further be hidden in bird houses built around them.
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