by Daniel Coyle
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When you sit down across the table from Danny Meyer, his eyes lock on you in a mix of interest and empathy. His body language is relaxed and alert but unhurried. His voice is steady, with a midwestern earnestness that’s vaguely reminiscent of Jimmy Stewart. If you ask him a question—say, what’s the best hamburger in New York—he pauses before answering. He has devoted hundreds of hours to exploring this question, so he knows a great deal. But when he answers, that answer has nothing to do with his knowledge and everything to do with you.
“Well,” he says. “What kind of hamburger you like depends on what kind of mood you’re in.”
We’re in Maialino, one of his restaurants near Gramercy Park, and it’s breakfast. Around us the Meyerian universe is spinning contentedly: fresh flowers burst from ceramic vases, and happy diners chat with attentive waiters. We’re talking about how Meyer studied political science at Trinity College and how he worked for a presidential campaign (which helped him see every worker as basically a volunteer) when, behind me, a tray accidentally slips from a waiter’s hand, and several water glasses smash on the floor.
For a microsecond, all the action stops. Meyer raises a finger, pressing pause on our conversation so he can watch what happens. The waiter who dropped the glasses starts picking up the pieces, and another waiter arrives with a broom and a dustpan. The cleanup happens swiftly, and everyone turns back to their food. Then I ask Meyer why he was watching so closely.
“I’m watching for what happens right afterward, and I’m looking for their energy level to go up,” he says. “They connect to clean up the problem, and the energy level goes either up or down, and if we’re doing our job right, their energy level will go up.” He puts his fists together, and then makes an explosion gesture with his fingers. “They are creating uplifting energy that has nothing to do with the task and everything to do with each other and what comes next. It’s not really that different from an ant colony or a beehive. Every action adds on to the others.”
I ask Meyer what a bad interaction looks like. “It’s one of two things,” he says. “Either they’re disinterested—‘I’m just doing my job’ kind of thing. Or they’re angry at the other person or the situation. And if I were to see that, I would know that there’s a deeper problem here, because the number-one job is to take care of each other. I didn’t always know that, but I know it now.”
Meyer starts telling me about his background: his youth in St. Louis, the early fascination with food and travel, the emotionally distant father who was in the hotel and food business, Meyer’s last-second veer away from law school and into the restaurant business, and finally the mid-1980s and the early days of Union Square Cafe, where his education really began.
“I didn’t know how to read a balance sheet,” he says. “I didn’t know how to manage flow or run a kitchen. I didn’t know anything. But I did know how I wanted to make people feel. I wanted them to feel like they couldn’t tell if they had stayed home or gone out.”
To do that, Meyer relied on instinct. He hired midwesterners to increase friendliness. He trained the staff himself, playacting various waiter-diner scenarios. When service was slow, as it often was in the early days, he placated guests with free wine and gave the staff latitude to provide treats. He made a habit of gathering tidbits of information to help his guests feel more at home. He paid particular attention to language. He hated waiter-speak like “Are you still working on that?” (it’s not work!) or “Is everything to your liking?” (so impersonal!). Instead, he sought to create language that gave guests the feeling that the staff was on their side. For instance, when a reservation was unavailable, he would say, “Can you give me a range of times that work for you, so I can root for a cancellation?”
Union Square Cafe was a huge success, with the ever-present Meyer working the door, busing tables, and cleaning up spills. Then in 1995 he opened a second restaurant, Gramercy Tavern. And that’s when things got difficult. Service started to slip. Food was inconsistent. Customers were unhappy. Meyer would split his time between the two restaurants trying frantically to boost performance, but it wasn’t working. “It was a complete nightmare,” he says. “I was miserable. I was running back and forth between the two places, and neither of them was doing as well as I wanted. It was kind of a classic situation. I mean, this is why most people who open a restaurant open only one.”
It all came to a head one day that fall at Gramercy Tavern, when a regular customer who was hosting a lunch for six ordered salmon. She ate about half of it, then told the waiter that she didn’t care for it—could she have something else? The waiter brought a new dish, then asked Gramercy’s manager whether the salmon should stay on the woman’s bill. The manager said it should. After all, the woman had eaten more than half of the dish, and there had been nothing wrong with the salmon. When the woman paid, she was handed a doggie bag with the remains of her salmon. When the woman got home, she wrote to Meyer, “I can’t believe how insulting and passive-aggressive this was, and it’s not what I would expect at one of your restaurants.”
“She was absolutely right,” Meyer says. “And here’s the worst part: Everybody at Gramercy thought they were doing a good job. The manager thought they were doing a good job. The waiter thought they were doing a good job. Everybody stood there and watched this happen, and nobody stopped it. We had spent hours and hours training people not to do this kind of thing, but they were doing it, and we had no control. That’s when I knew that I had to find a way to build a language, to teach behavior. I could no longer just model the behavior and trust that people would understand and do it. I had to start naming stuff.”
A few weeks later Meyer invited the entire staff to a Saturday retreat along the Hudson River and started a conversation about values: What were they really about? What did they stand for? Who came first?
“That salmon incident was the Plymouth Rock moment,” says Richard Coraine, chief development officer of the Union Square Hospitality Group, the parent company for Meyer’s restaurants. “Danny realized that he needed to be in two places at once. Which meant that he had to find a way to deliver the signal. People will respond to what their boss feels is important. So Danny had to define and articulate what was important.”
At the retreat, Meyer and the staff ranked their priorities:
1. Colleagues
2. Guests
3. Community
4. Suppliers
5. Investors
For Meyer, this was a breakthrough. “Naming these things felt incredibly good,” he says. “Getting all this out in the open. The manager who’d caused the salmon problem ended up leaving, and that’s when things started to take off, and I realized that how we treat each other is everything. If we do that well, everything else will fall into place.”
In a similar way, Meyer then attempted to name the specific behaviors and interactions he wanted to create at his restaurants. He already had an assortment of catchphrases that he used informally in training—he had a knack for distilling ideas into handy maxims. But now he started paying deeper attention to these phrases, thinking about them as tools. Here are a few:
Read the guest
Athletic hospitality
Writing a great final chapter
Turning up the Home Dial
Loving problems
Finding the yes
Collecting the dots and connecting the dots
Creating raves for guests
One size fits one
Skunking
Making the charitable assumption
Planting like seeds in like gardens
Put us out of business with your generosity
Be aware of your emotional wake
To get a hug, you have to give a hug
The excellence reflex
Are you an agent or a gatekeeper?
On the surface, these look like garden-variety corporate aphorisms. In fact, each of them functions as a small narrative in itself, providing a vivid mental mode
l for solving the routine problems the staff faced. Making the charitable assumption means that when someone behaves poorly, you should avoid judging them and instead give them the benefit of the doubt. Collecting the dots means gathering information about guests; connecting the dots is using that information to create happiness. Skunking is spraying negative energy into the workplace, as skunks do when they’re frightened. By themselves, these phrases are unremarkable. But together, endlessly repeated and modeled through behavior, they create a larger conceptual framework that connects with the group’s identity and expresses its core purpose: We take care of people.
Meyer became more intentional about embedding his catchphrases and stating priorities in training, staff meetings, and all communications. He pushed his leaders to seek opportunities to use and model the key behaviors. He began to treat his role as that of a culture broadcaster. And it worked. In a few months, the atmosphere at both restaurants improved markedly. Meyer kept it up, steadily expanding and refining the language. “You have priorities, whether you name them or not,” he says. “If you want to grow, you’d better name them, and you’d better name the behaviors that support the priorities.”
A couple years after the salmon incident, an NYU doctoral student in organizational behavior named Susan Reilly Salgado became curious about why Meyer’s restaurants felt so different from all others. As she chatted with the waitstaff, she noticed that they all tended to describe their jobs with the same words: home, family, warmth. She approached Meyer and asked him if she could make the restaurant the subject of her research, and he agreed, provided she took a job there. Salgado worked at Union Square Cafe for six months. She watched the way the staff members interacted with one another and with customers, and she noticed what she called “micro-processes” that drove those interactions. Here is how she summed up her findings in her dissertation: “The results indicate that Union Square Cafe achieves its differentiation strategy of ‘enlightened hospitality’ through a synergistic set of human resource management practices involving three key practices: selection of employees based on emotional capabilities, respectful treatment of employees, and management through a simple set of rules that stimulate complex and intricate behaviors benefiting customers.”
A simple set of rules that stimulate complex and intricate behaviors benefiting customers. Salgado discovered, in other words, that Meyer succeeded for the same reason James Burke succeeded with the Credo challenge. Creating engagement around a clear, simple set of priorities can function as a lighthouse, orienting behavior and providing a path toward a goal.
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All of which raises the deeper question of how exactly this happens, how a handful of catchphrases and a list of priorities can produce such smooth and proficient performance. We can get an answer from an unlikely source: a tiny organism called a slime mold.
Slime molds are ancient, bloblike organisms made up of thousands of individual amoebae. Most of the time slime molds are passive, sedate, and wholly unremarkable. But when food becomes scarce, the thousands of amoebae begin to work together in a beautiful and intelligent way. Back in the 1940s, a Harvard undergraduate named John Tyler Bonner photographed slime molds with a time-lapse camera and made a film, which he began to show to academic audiences. Word spread, and before long lecture halls were overflowing with enraptured crowds. Albert Einstein requested a private viewing. J. J. O’Neill of the New York Herald Tribune told Bonner that his work was more important than the discovery of the atomic bomb.
The film’s first frames show a disconnected scattering of small gray blobs. But then, as if responding to an invisible signal, the amoebae move with single intent toward the center, where thousands of them fuse together into a single organism that starts to move. At the tip of the organism, another transformation happens as some of the amoebae crawl upward, forming a stalk. Other amoebae crawl over them, where they become spores, to blow off in the wind and reproduce. The whole thing is utterly magical and orchestral, as if some hidden conductor were whispering instructions: You over here, now here, now all together. The film became a sensation because it embodied a profound mystery: How does this kind of intelligent group behavior happen with creatures that possess no intelligence?
For years, researchers presumed that the behavior was a result of an “organizer cell” that functioned as a kind of biological drill sergeant, telling the others what to do and when. This organizer cell, it turns out, does not exist. What does exist is something more powerful: a simple set of rules called heuristics that drive behavior.
“We assume that because we’re complex, that the way we make decisions is also complex,” says Madeleine Beekman, who studies slime molds at the University of Sydney. “But in reality, we’re using very simple rules of thumb. The slime mold shows us that it’s possible for groups to solve extremely complex problems using a few rules of thumb.”
In the case of slime molds, these rules of thumb are as follows:
If there’s no food, connect with one another.
If connected, stay connected and move toward the light.
If you reach the light, stay connected and climb.
“Honeybees work the same way,” Beekman says. “So do ants and many other species. They all use decision-making heuristics. There’s no reason we wouldn’t use it too. If you look at these species, you can feel the connection. Like us, they all seek a collective goal.”
Beekman and the slime molds give us a new way to think about why Danny Meyer’s catchphrases work so well. They are not merely catchphrases; they are heuristics that provide guidance by creating if/then scenarios in a vivid, memorable way. Structurally, there is no difference between If someone is rude, make a charitable assumption and If there’s no food, connect with one another. Both function as a conceptual beacon, creating situational awareness and providing clarity in times of potential confusion. This is why so many of Meyer’s catchphrases focus on how to respond to mistakes.
You can’t prevent mistakes, but you can solve problems graciously.
If it ain’t broke, fix it.
Mistakes are like waves; servers are really surfers.
The road to success is paved with mistakes well handled.
The trick is not just to send the signal but to create engagement around it. This is where Meyer excels. He approaches the catchphrase-creating process with the focused verve of a pop songwriter. He generates constantly, testing which ones work. He seeks snappy, visceral phrases that use vivid images to help team members connect. Richard Coraine’s office contains a whiteboard that is covered with works in progress.
We are all paid to solve problems. Make sure to pick fun people to solve problems with.
There’s glory in making a mistake.
Stone after stone to form a bridge.
Meyer’s not alone. Many leaders of high-proficiency groups focus on creating priorities, naming keystone behaviors, and flooding the environment with heuristics that link the two. For example, if you spend time around the New Zealand All-Blacks rugby team, you will hear them talk about “leaving the jersey in a better place,” and saying, “If you’re not growing anywhere, you’re not going anywhere,” keeping a “blue head” instead of a “red head” (which refers to calmness under pressure), “Pressure is a privilege,” “TQB—total quality ball,” “KBA—keep the ball alive,” “Front up, or fuck off,” “It’s an honor, not a job,” “Go for the gap,” and “Better people make better All-Blacks.”
KIPP, the network of highly successful charter schools, is similarly built around catchphrases like “No shortcuts,” “Work hard, be nice,” “Don’t eat the marshmallow,” “Team and family,” “If there’s a problem, we look for the solution,” “Read, baby, read,” “All of us will learn,” “KIPPsters do the right thing when no one is watching,” “Everything is earned,” “Be the constant, not the variable,” “If a teammate needs help, we give; if we need help, we ask,” “No robots,” and “Prove the doubters wrong.”
At first en
counter, a heuristic-dense culture feels slightly off-putting. “For the first few days I worked here, I heard all the language, and it was like, ‘Are we in summer camp?’ ” says Allison Staad, Shake Shack’s senior marketing and communications manager. “It’s totally hokey and corny. And then you start to see how they work, and you start using them in regular life. Then all of a sudden they’re not corny—they’re just part of the oxygen.”
“The most powerful thing about all those phrases is the way Danny embodies them,” says Coraine. “What he’s exceptional at is realizing that people are looking at him every second, and he’s delivering those messages every second, every day. He’s like a powerful Wi-Fi signal. Some people send three bars, but Danny is at ten bars, and he never goes below nine.”
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* Much of this remembering takes place within the reservations system, where guest preferences are religiously noted by waitstaff and managers. I saw one guest note that read: Likes extra butter with bread; needs a lot of love.
On a fundamental level, Danny Meyer, KIPP, and the All-Blacks are using the same purpose-building technique. We might call it the lighthouse method: They create purpose by generating a clear beam of signals that link A (where we are) to B (where we want to be). There’s another dimension of leadership, however, where the goal isn’t to get from A to B but to navigate to an unknown destination, X. This is the dimension of creativity and innovation.