Although the house has changed little since its completion in 1722, much of the 2,000 acres of park and gardens were transformed in the 1760s by Lancelot “Capability” Brown, the great landscape gardener. Many visitors come today to try their luck in the famous Marlborough Maze, the world’s largest hedge maze.
Within walking distance of Blenheim Palace, Feathers Inn in Woodstock promises outstanding meals and stylish rooms in a country setting that belies London’s proximity. Nearby is the equally historic Star Inn, a cozy pub on the town’s main square, with excellent food and comfortable rooms upstairs.
WHERE: 62 miles/101 km northwest of London. VISITOR INFO: www.blenheimpalace.co.uk. FEATHERS INN: Tel 44/1993-812-291; www.feathers.co.uk. Cost: from $230; dinner $70. STAR INN: Tel 44/1993-811-373; www.thestarinnwoodstock.co.uk. Cost: from $135; dinner $30. BEST TIMES: Apr–May for gardens at their peak; Sep–Oct for fall colors in the parkland.
Gastronomic Getaway
LUDLOW
Shropshire, England
Every proud patriot has a running list of contenders for his or her country’s “prettiest little town.” On many an Anglophile’s list, Ludlow is sure to be at the top. With a population of less than 10,000 people, this market town sits contentedly in a quiet, mellow region of pastoral scenery along England’s Welsh border, an area known as The Marches (an ancient word derived from “the edge” or “frontier”). Ludlow still feels very much on the edge of England, and it takes some patience to get there, though there’s a benefit—the town has thus far blessedly escaped the common blight of bus tours, urban sprawl, and shopping malls. Swans glide on the River Teme that encircles it, spanned by medieval bridges that were a frequent subject for J.M.W. Turner’s paintings. The imposing Ludlow Castle went up in 1094 upon orders from the Earl of Shrewsbury and the cobbled streets are distinguished by elegant Georgian and Jacobean houses.
In recent years, Ludlow has established itself as an epicurean center, with a market held four days per week, specialty food stores, and a number of excellent places to eat, from high-profile restaurants to comfortable bistros and cozy inns—a surprisingly varied selection for an unassuming country outpost. The town is at the forefront of the UK’s Slow Food movement, and the high point of the year is the annual Food and Drink Festival.
Leading restaurants include Mr. Underhills and La Becasse—the former a riverside inn specializing in refined British fare and the latter leaning toward French cuisine in a handsome oak-lined dining room. Both pride themselves on using local ingredients and standards that are exceptional. They are each within walking distance of the Merchant House, offering comfortable lodgings in just two rooms. The friendly owners maintain the town’s culinary traditions with a fine breakfast, and they’re a mine of information about local history and gastronomic haunts.
WHERE: 160 miles/257 km northwest of London. MR. UNDERHILLS: Tel 44/1584-874-431; www.mr-underhills.co.uk. Cost: dinner $85. LA BECASSE: Tel 44/1584-872-325; www.labecasse.co.uk. Cost: 3-course dinner $95. THE MERCHANT HOUSE: Tel 44/1584-875-438; www.merchanthouse.co.uk. Cost: from $140. BEST TIMES: Mon, Wed, Fri, Sat for Ludlow Market; 2nd and 4th Thurs for Ludlow’s Food and Produce Market; late Jun–early Jul for the 2-week Ludlow Festival featuring Shakespeare; 2nd weekend of Sep for Ludlow Food and Drink Festival.
Britain’s Most Historic Spa Town
BATH
Somerset, England
Legend has it that an ancient Celtic king first discovered the healing properties of the thermal waters here; then, between A.D. 50 and 300, the Romans built elaborate saunas, temples, and bathhouses around the hot springs. More than a millennium later, in 1702, Queen Anne’s visit launched the city’s rebirth as the country’s premier spa town. Throughout the 18th century, English high society would come here for the season to “take the waters” as depicted in the novels of Jane Austen. The flourish of grand architecture that followed transformed Bath into what is today Britain’s most perfectly and beautifully preserved Georgian city. Relaxed and refined, the city is a gracious host, with wonderful antiquing, shopping, and dining.
The city’s historic heart is still its Roman baths, among Britain’s finest classical ruins. Overlooking them is the 18th-century Pump Room, a noted restaurant and one of the greatest temples to old-fashioned English teatime, where you can still see the fountain of natural mineral waters that visitors enjoyed in the Georgian heyday. The 16th-century Bath Abbey is nearby, and it’s a short walk to The Circus, one of the city’s most impressive sites: 33 perfectly matching yet subtly differentiated houses forming a huge Colosseum-inspired circle, designed by John Wood the Elder, orchestrator of Bath’s architectural golden days.
In 1775 his son John Wood the Younger designed the equally spectacular Royal Crescent, a huge semi-ellipse of 30 identical stone houses overlooking Royal Victoria Park, on what is hailed as the most majestic street in Britain. Stop by for tea at the Royal Crescent, Bath’s most patrician hotel.
Just north of The Circus on Russel Street—another charming row of honey-colored houses—is the stylish, yet casual and slightly eccentric, Queensberry Hotel. Or cross the park below the Royal Crescent to reach Brooks Guesthouse, a small, quiet hotel with a historic ambience.
After enjoying life in town, retire to Ston Easton Park, a stately Palladian mansion rebuilt in 1740, set in impeccably maintained gardens and parkland, 20 minutes outside of Bath. This is a period gem of the highest order, an unforgettable country retreat with traditionally decorated bedrooms and lounges and one of the finest restaurants in the region.
A terrace overlooks the Great Bath, the baths’ centerpiece.
WHERE: 115 miles/185 km west of London. VISITOR INFO: www.visitbath.co.uk. PUMP ROOM: Tel 44/1225-444-477; www.romanbaths.co.uk Cost: tea $30. ROYAL CRESCENT HOTEL: Tel 44/1225-823-333; www.royalcrescent.co.uk. Cost: from $300. QUEENSBERRY HOTEL: Tel 44/1225-447-928; www.thequeensberry.co.uk. Cost: from $200; dinner $65. BROOKS GUESTHOUSE: Tel 44/1225-425-543; www.brooksguesthouse.com. Cost: from $135. STON EASTON PARK: Tel 44/1761-241-631; www.stoneaston.co.uk. Cost: from $275; dinner $70. BEST TIMES: May–Sep for nicest weather; late May–early Jun for Bath International Music Festival.
A Standout in England’s Smallest City
WELLS CATHEDRAL
Wells, Somerset, England
In the heart of the sleepy rural county of Somerset is England’s smallest city, delightful little Wells. A settlement since Saxon times, Wells reached its pinnacle of prestige around the 12th century, when the magnificent Cathedral Church of St. Andrew was built to reflect the city’s affluence. Over the following years, Wells gradually fell into a centuries-long slumber that would preserve its character and heritage for today’s visitors.
Although St. Andrew is one of Britain’s smallest cathedrals, it dwarfs the perfectly preserved surrounding streets that spread out in its shadow. A special feature is the cathedral’s west front, heavily ornamented with six tiers of 365 carved life-size figures that comprise the most extensive surviving array of medieval sculpture in Britain. Completed in the early 13th century, they illustrated biblical stories for the illiterate masses. The front’s twin towers were not added until the late 14th century, yet look as if they were always meant to be there. England’s (and the world’s) second oldest clock, built in 1392, is found in the interior’s north transept, announcing the hour with a fanfare of tilting knights on armored steeds.
After marveling at the cathedral, check into the charming Swan Hotel, a former coaching inn whose interior of baronial log fireplaces, beamed ceilings, rich wood paneling, and heavy four-poster beds evokes its 500 years of history. Enjoy views of the cathedral from its highly regarded restaurant, a perfect spot for lunch or dinner. Or drive a little way out of town to Stoberry House, a small hotel with luxurious rooms, contemporary sculptures in the garden, and unbeatable vistas across the green fields to Wells and the cathedral.
Also visible about 6 miles away is the hill of Glastonbury Tor, thought to be variously the mythical Isle of Aval
on, the last resting place of legendary King Arthur, a meeting place for fairies, a holy spot visited by Joseph of Arimathea (uncle of Jesus), or a beacon for UFOs. Below lies the town of Glastonbury. The gigantic Glastonbury Festival, an annual celebration of rock and folk music, takes its name from the town but since 1970 has been held in the nearby village of Piton.
WHERE: 120 miles/193 km southwest of London. SWAN HOTEL: Tel 44/1749-836-300; www.swanhotelwells.co.uk. Cost: from $225; dinner $40. STOBERRY HOUSE: Tel 44/1749-672-906; www.stoberry-park.co.uk. Cost: from $95. BEST TIMES: May–Oct for the nicest weather; late Jun for Glastonbury Festival.
Drama and Ghosts at Shakespeare’s Birthplace
STRATFORD-UPON-AVON
Warwickshire, England
The timeless appeal and universality of William Shakespeare’s literary work have long made his hometown, Stratford-upon-Avon, a point of pilgrimage. With streets of historic half-timbered houses and an air of genial prosperity, it would likely draw visitors even without the fame of the town’s native son. In and around Stratford are five houses with connections to the Bard, including the house where he was born in 1564 (the exact date is unrecorded, but he was baptized on April 26, so his birth date is estimated as April 23) and the cottage of his wife, Anne Hathaway. Also on the required circuit is the 13th-century Trinity Church, where Shakespeare and his family were buried (he died on April 23 at the age of 52).
But the zenith of any visit is enjoying a performance by the Royal Shakespeare Company, one of the finest repertory troupes in the world. Of the three theaters in town, most classics are performed at the Royal Shakespeare Theatre; there are weekly matinees for those heading back to London in time for dinner. The Elizabethan-style Swan Theatre was reconstructed along the lines of Shakespeare’s original Globe Theatre, and The Other Place is a more intimate venue for experimental productions.
In between sightseeing venues, stop for a pint at a historic pub such as the Windmill, which is old enough to have been frequented by Shakespeare himself, or the Black Swan, affectionately known by all as “the Dirty Duck” and a favorite spot for actors, pre- or postperformance.
After a day in town or an evening at the theater, relax at the Swan’s Nest Hotel, a grand old redbrick house dating from the 17th century, where guests can enjoy a drink on the terrace overlooking the river as real swans glide by. Or travel 5 miles in the direction of Alderminster to the magnificent Ettington Park Hotel, a stately neo-Gothic home set on 40 acres of deer-inhabited parkland and manicured gardens on the banks of the River Stour. This 19th-century country house has long been associated with the Shirley family (Shakespeare’s Hal speaks of a “valiant Shirley” in Henry IV Part I), and family ghosts linger, but guests will be hard pressed to find a more welcoming place.
WHERE: 90 miles/145 km northwest of London. VISITOR INFO: www.shakespeare-country.co.uk. THEATERS: ticket hotline, tel 0844-800-1110; www.rsc.org.uk. When: theater season is Mar–Nov. SWAN’S NEST HOTEL: Tel 44/1789-266-804; www.macdonaldhotels.co.uk/swansnest. Cost: from $165. ETTINGTON PARK HOTEL: Tel 44/1789-450-123; www.ettingtonpark.co.uk. Cost: from $225 (off-peak), from $310 (peak). BEST TIME: A festival of Bard-related events takes place the weekend closest to Apr 23, traditionally celebrated as the date of Shakespeare’s birth and death.
England’s Finest Feudal Castle
WARWICK CASTLE
Warwick, Warwickshire, England
After more than 9 centuries at the heart of British history, the magnificent feudal fortress of Warwick is still the country’s finest medieval castle. Built in 1068 by William the Conqueror, just 2 years after the seminal Battle of Hastings, its commanding position on an escarpment above the River Avon was described as “the most noble site in England” by Sir Walter Scott.
Originally built to keep out unwanted “guests,” Warwick Castle is now more visited than any other English house in private hands, and the second most visited castle after Windsor (see p. 22). These modern-day invaders come to see the finely preserved historic structure, of course, but also to be entertained by numerous attractions such as the Pageant Playground and Castle Dungeon. Crowds can be big during school vacation time, but guards at the gate keep the long lines moving within the monumental Norman walls.
Inside the castle are fascinating displays, including one of Europe’s most important collections of medieval armor and weaponry, as well as paintings by such old masters as Rubens and Van Dyck. The castle’s bellicose character is best viewed from outdoors, where peacocks preen on 60 acres of grounds, landscaped in the 18th century by Lancelot “Capability” Brown.
For a much more serene historical experience, it’s just 5 miles north to Kenilworth Castle. Overshadowed by its more famous neighbor and 50 years younger, it’s nevertheless an impressive ruin, and its history is just as intriguing. Previous owners include “Bad” King John in the early 13th century followed by John of Gaunt and Robert Dudley, believed by some to have been a secret lover of Elizabeth I. Fast-forward to the 19th century and Sir Walter Scott, who was as impressed with Kenilworth as he was with Warwick: His novel Kenilworth put the castle on the tourist map in the Victorian era.
WHERE: 92 miles/148 km northwest of London. VISITOR INFO: www.warwick-castle.co.uk; www.kenilworthweb.co.uk.
A Masterpiece of Medieval Technology
SALISBURY CATHEDRAL
Salisbury, Wiltshire, England
The 19th-century paintings of Turner and Constable familiarized the world with Salisbury Cathedral and its remarkable 404-foot spire, the tallest in the country and an iconic image of England. The cathedral was begun in 1220 and was completed in a record 38 years (the spire was added toward the end of the century) making Salisbury the most architecturally unified of all the great European cathedrals and the very pinnacle of what is known as the Early English or pointed Gothic style.
Inside is the oldest working clock in the world, dating back to the 1300s. It’s a strange mechanical contraption with no dial, designed to strike a bell to mark the passing hours. Climb up the spire’s internal steps for a striking view across the attractive and lively market town of Salisbury in the direction of Salisbury Plain and Stonehenge (see next page), Wiltshire’s other significant site.
To the south of the cathedral, on the other side of the River Avon and about a mile from the center of town, the lovely old 13th-century Rose and Crown Inn has welcomed pilgrims and wayfarers since its earliest days, with hand-hewn beams and a genial sense of hospitality still firmly intact. It’s an inviting place to spend the afternoon, with views of a lawn stretching down to the river—a veritable Turner canvas come to life, with the cathedral’s soaring spire in full sight.
Drive about 20 miles south from Salisbury through the New Forest—once the private hunting ground of medieval kings and now one of England’s newest national parks—to New Milton and Chewton Glen, a neo-Georgian country manor hotel distinguished by an air of well-being and known for its impeccable standards of service and quality. Nothing ruffles the feathers of the extremely amiable staff at this grand, green-shuttered, ivy-clad home where croquet on the front lawn is one of myriad amenities.
The cathedral houses an original Magna Carta.
WHERE: 90 miles/145 km southwest of London; www.salisburycathedral.org.uk. ROSE AND CROWN INN: Tel 44/1722-359-999; www.legacy-hotels.co.uk/legacy-roseandcrown. Cost: from $140. CHEWTON GLEN HOTEL: Tel 44/1425-275-341; in the U.S., tel 800-344-5087; www.chewtonglen.com. Cost: from $490; dinner $90. BEST TIMES: Tues and Sat for the outdoor Salisbury Charter Market; Apr–Oct for the New Forest at its best; late May–early Jun for Salisbury Festival, an arts and cultural event.
One of the World’s Great Mysteries
STONEHENGE
Wiltshire, England
Britain’s best-known prehistoric site, Stonehenge is still as magical, mystical, and mysterious as it was probably always meant to be—but only if you catch it between tour bus caravans. No one knows for sure the reason for Stonehenge, although it is fairly certain that ancient Neoli
thic and Bronze Age peoples built this stunning collection of artfully placed rocks over a very long period, then used the site for rituals or ceremonies pertaining to the sun and perhaps also as a calendar. In the 17th century, the widely held view that the circle was somehow connected to the Celtic druids took hold and has never died, even though it has since been proved that Stonehenge predates the priestly cult by at least 1,500 years and probably more.
The massive trilithons—two upright stones with a lintel across the top—were assembled some 4,000 years ago. Some of the standing stones weigh up to 50 tons, and experts estimate that to move each one into position took more than 1,000 men. Scholars disagree about where the stones came from (some say southwest Wales) and how they got to the windswept Salisbury Plain. Modern researchers believe they were to be put together in three distinct stages (two of which were never completed), in alignments made possible by sophisticated builders with a knowledge of astronomy, mathematics, and engineering unparalleled anywhere in Europe at that time. Today, thousands of visitors gravitate here, especially for the summer and winter solstice, including many modern-day druids and followers of other pagan religions.
Not as famous as Stonehenge but more powerful for their simplicity, the nearby Avebury Stone Circles, some 20 miles north, were erected 500 years before Stonehenge was completed. Uncrowded and more accessible, they consist of circles of 100 massive stones.
WHERE: 85 miles/137 km southwest of London. VISITOR INFO: www.english-heritage.org.uk. BEST TIMES: early morning or late afternoon to avoid crowds; summer and winter solstices (usually sunrise on Jun 21 and Dec 22), and spring and fall equinoxes (the halfway points between the solstices).
1,000 Places to See Before You Die Page 6