Just beyond the park’s southern border in Eglwys Fach, near the historic town of Machynlleth, is Ynyshir Hall. Once owned by Queen Victoria, it’s now a hideaway hotel, perfect for guests seeking luxury in a tranquil, rural location. The main house, with just nine rooms and an acclaimed restaurant, dates back to the 15th century, giving a palpable sense of royal history, with the mountains of Snowdonia still within easy reach.
WHERE: Llanberis is 200 miles/324 km northwest of London. VISITOR INFO: www.eryri-npa.gov.uk/visiting; www.greatlittletrainsofwales.co.uk. HOTEL MAES-Y-NEUADD: Tel 44/1766-780-200; www.neuadd.com. Cost: from $130; dinner $55. YNYSHIR HALL: Tel 44/1654-781-209; www.ynyshirhall.co.uk. Cost: from $450; dinner $120. BEST TIMES: May–Sep for pleasant weather; Jul–Aug is busiest.
Poetic Landscapes
DYLAN THOMAS COUNTRY
South Wales, Wales
In the county of Camarthenshire is the little coastal town of Laugharne (Talacharn), best known as the home of Dylan Thomas (1914–1953), the nation’s favorite poet. A simple white cross in St. Martin’s churchyard marks his grave and that of his wife, Caitlin, and there are still a few old-timers in town who remember him sitting in the bar at Brown’s Hotel, where he would regularly enjoy a pint.
“The Boathouse,” where he lived with Caitlin for the last years of his life, is now a museum whose quiet setting overlooking the estuary of the River Taf exudes a lyric beauty. Nearby, his writing shed is just as he left it, filled with his papers, manuscripts, and furnishings. It was here that he wrote some of his most famous works, including part of Under Milk Wood, his landmark “play for voices,” that was translated into the classic 1972 film, shot close by, starring Elizabeth Taylor, Peter O’Toole, and the Welsh-born Richard Burton.
For a place to stay in Laugharne, the finest is Hurst House on the Marsh, a luxurious hotel just to the south of the village. Originally part of a 16th-century dairy farm, the main building is now a stylish mix of modern and traditional designs, while the restaurant has the relaxing air of a conservatory.
Thomas was born and educated east of Laugharne in Swansea, Wales’s second largest city. He worked on the local newspaper there and frequented the local pubs, especially in the area known as the Mumbles. Today, his life and work are celebrated at the Dylan Thomas Centre, in an area near the city’s former docks now revitalized as the Maritime Quarter; the Centre is a focal point for Thomas-related studies and regular arts events, including the annual Dylan Thomas Festival.
From Swansea, stretching for 15 miles into the waters of Carmarthen Bay, is the sparsely populated Gower Peninsula, a scenic enclave of green hills, rocky hillocks, and sandy, surf-pounded beaches. In the heart of this officially declared Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty is the suitably magical Fairyhill Hotel, in the village of Reynoldston. This 200-year-old country house has just eight inviting rooms, ensuring a peaceful stay, while the highly regarded restaurant lets you enjoy a taste of Wales.
Thomas lived and wrote here from 1949 to 1953.
WHERE: Laugharne is 180 miles/308 km west of London. VISITOR INFO: www.dylanthomasboathouse.com. HURST HOUSE: Tel 44/1994-427-417; www.hurst-house.co.uk. Cost: from $285; dinner $55. FAIRYHILL HOTEL: Tel 44/1792-390-139; www.fairyhill.net. Cost: from $295; dinner $70. BEST TIMES: May–Sep for nicest weather; late Oct–Nov for 12-day Dylan Thomas Festival, in Swansea.
In the Footsteps of Wordsworth
WYE VALLEY
Southeast Wales, Wales
For much of its southern extent, the border between England and Wales is marked by the River Wye. Starting as a small stream on the mountain of Plynlimon (Pumlumon in Welsh means “five peaks”) the river flows through the remote hills of mid-Wales to reach Hay-on-Wye (see p. 46). South of here is the historic frontier town of Monmouth, with its castle built by a baron of William the Conqueror in 1067 (just a year after the seminal Battle of Hastings) and considerably damaged in the 17th century during the English Civil War.
Near Monmouth, the river is forced between cliffs and over rapids at a place called Symonds Yat, and the Wye Valley becomes narrow, with trees covering the steep slopes on both sides. On a bend in the river stand the ruins of Tintern Abbey. Centuries ago, a monk of the abbey wrote, “You will find among the woods something you never found in books,” and the sense of peace and tranquility remains very much in place today.
Once a thriving center for religion and learning, and the richest abbey in Wales, it was founded in 1131 by Cistercian monks; today’s soaring structure (ruined but remarkably intact in spots, and still spectacular) dates from the 13th century. Before being dissolved by Henry VIII in 1536, Tintern had grown to include an abbey church, chapter house, infirmary, and dining hall. Their remains are still clearly visible, with fine arches and traces of vast windows standing against the sky, the whole edifice an outstanding example of the medieval Gothic style.
Roofless and almost forgotten for 300 years, Tintern Abbey was rediscovered in the 18th century by artists and poets in search of picturesque locations. One such visitor was William Wordsworth; enchanted by this sylvan setting, he penned his much loved sonnet celebrating the greatness of God in nature: “And I have felt, a presence that disturbs me with the joy of elevated thoughts; a sense sublime . . . .”
Continue down the river to its mouth, where it meets the giant River Severn near the town of Chepstow. Here is another castle, built at the same time as Monmouth’s, though it has weathered the years in better shape, making it one of the oldest surviving stone castles in Britain. Overlooking the river from its perch on the cliffs, its impressive towers are a reminder of the castle’s strategic importance in days gone by, and a perfect finish to a tour along the beautiful River Wye.
Wordsworth and Tennyson found inspiration in Tintern Abbey.
WHERE: 120 miles/194 km west of London. VISITOR INFO: www.visitwyevalley.com. WHERE TO STAY: Small and romantic and with an acclaimed restaurant, the Crown at Whitebrook is located between Monmouth and Tintern. Tel 44/1600-860-254; www.crownatwhitebrook.co.uk. Cost: from $220; dinner $85. BEST TIMES: late Jul for Monmouth Music Festival; late Aug for Monmouth Show, one of the largest festivals of agriculture and country life in Wales; Sep–Oct for fall colors.
Sacred Site on a Scenic Coastline
ST. DAVIDS CATHEDRAL
Pembrokeshire, West Wales, Wales
The cathedral dedicated to the patron saint of Wales is the largest in the country—all out of proportion to the tiny town of St. Davids (population less than 2,000) in which it sits. Unlike many other cathedrals that dominate their surroundings, St. Davids is hidden away in a valley, a reminder of the days when it needed to be secluded from Viking raiders and marauding pirates. It’s a short walk beyond the shops and houses of the town center, along a narrow street and through an ancient gatehouse, to reach the viewpoint overlooking the cathedral; a long flight of steps leads you down to its door.
St. David was born in this coastal corner of southwestern Wales around A.D. 500 and returned later in life to found a monastic community that grew to great importance. The cathedral, begun in the 12th century, was built in the same spot, flanked by the once magnificent Bishop’s Palace, now a glorious ruin. St. David is buried here, making it Wales’s most sacred site, with visitors still flocking as they did in the Middle Ages when the cathedral was one of Britain’s most important places of pilgrimage.
Modern-day pilgrims may stop for earthly sustenance at Cwtch, the best restaurant in town. From the Welsh word for “snug,” or “cuddle,” the place entices diners with top-quality food served in smart yet informal surroundings.
The town of St. Davids is one of many settlements within the Pembrokeshire Coast National Park, comprising more than 250 miles of protected coastline. With craggy cliffs, stacks and blowholes, narrow inlets, and huddled bays, the park also contains a hinterland of rolling hills, the tranquil waterways of the Daugleddau Estuary, and the rocky peaks of the Preseli Mountains, said to be the mystical source of some of the stone menhirs that make
up Stonehenge (see p. 31). Big waves and sandy beaches attract surfers and families, while hikers enjoy a network of cliff-top and seaside footpaths in the company of wildflowers and seabirds.
In the hamlet of Molleston, just outside Narberth and a gateway to the park from the east, is the Grove, one of the region’s finest hotels. The 18th-century country house has been beautifully restored with just 12 rooms, a relaxed ambience, and first-class service. Other highlights include the contemporary restaurant and the exquisite garden, the latter a passion of the hotel’s owners.
WHERE: 220 miles/356 km west of London. VISITOR INFO: www.visitpembrokeshire.com. CWTCH: Tel 44/1437-720-491; www.cwtchrestaurant.co.uk. Cost: dinner $45. THE GROVE: Tel 44/1834-860-915; www.thegrove-narberth.co.uk. Cost: from $245 (off-peak), from $295 (peak); dinner $65. BEST TIMES: Mar 1 for St. David’s Day; late May–Jun for St. Davids Cathedral Festival, featuring classical music; mid-Aug for Pembrokeshire County Show.
Moody Moonscapes to Stone Castles
THE COAST OF CLARE
County Clare, Ireland
A wonderland of all things rocky, the coast of County Clare runs the gamut from stone pastures and towering cliffs to a cluster of romantic castles. The area simply known as the Burren (in Irish boireann, or “stony place”), stretching 116 square miles below Galway Bay on Clare’s northwestern edge, is a crackled landscape of steel-gray limestone exposed by the last ice age. It may seem barren at first glance, but up close, you’ll see some of the nearly 1,000 species of wildflowers and plants in the only place in Europe where Mediterranean and Alpine flowers grow side by side. A well-signposted hiking trail, the 28-mile Burren Way, leads across rolling hills and winds up at Ballyvaughan and Gregans Castle Hotel, a refined manor house with a celebrated restaurant that welcomes the weary. It takes its name from the 15th-century former residence of the Prince of the Burren, across the way.
Doolin, on the coast, is Ireland’s hotbed of trad (traditional) music. It is a one-street town, with more than its share of music pubs: McDermott’s, McGann’s, and Gus O’Conor’s. Stop to wet your whistle and tap your feet before picking up the Burren Way, which winds south to the Cliffs of Moher, Ireland’s most recognizable landmark. Stretching 5 miles along the Atlantic, these shale and sandstone cliffs drop more than 700 feet into the churning ocean and are home to major colonies of seabirds. Though the area is always crowded with tour buses, you can still enjoy a quiet moment if you arrive at sunset.
Contrived but nevertheless fun, raucous evenings at 15th-century Bunratty Castle, an Irish-village theme park, let you feast at eat-with-your-hands medieval banquets while seated at a torch-lit table and entertained with song. Make another castle your home for the night, at a historic hotel with exemplary service: Dromoland, the distinguished 16th-century ancestral home of the native Gaelic O’Briens, barons of Inchiquin and direct descendants of High King Brian Boru. The hotel has its own emerald green 18-hole, 410-acre golf course.
The Cliffs of Moher are among Ireland’s most photographed natural wonders.
WHERE: The Burren is 33 miles/53 km north of Shannon. VISITOR INFO: www.discoverireland.ie. BURREN NATIONAL PARK: www.burrennationalpark.ie. GREGANS CASTLE HOTEL: Tel 353/65-707-7005; www.gregans.ie. Cost: from $275 (off-peak), from $350 (peak); dinner $75. When: closed Dec–mid-Feb. BUNRATTY CASTLE: Tel 353/61-36-0788; www.shannonheritage.com. Cost: $85. DROMOLAND CASTLE: Tel 353/61-36-8144; www.dromoland.ie. Cost: from $335 (off-peak), from $615 (peak); greens fees $130 (guests), $160 (nonguests). BEST TIMES: May–Jun for Burren flowers; late Feb for Doolin’s trad music festival.
Heaven on the Green
IRELAND’S TEMPLES OF GOLF
Counties Clare and Kerry, Ireland
With spectacular, rolling green countryside, Ireland ranks as one of the most scenic and respected golf destinations on earth. More than 400 courses surround idyllic castle hotels (such as Adare and Dromoland; see p. 69 and previous page) and ramble across emerald pastures (see Horse Country, p. 68). Stellar courses reach from outside Dublin (the challenging championship Portmarnock Golf Links lies just 10 miles from the capital) to Donegal, to Northern Ireland (see Causeway Coast and the Kingdom of Mourne, pp. 77 and 79). But the outstanding links of Ireland’s southwest remain the most visited.
Topping the wish list of many is the Ballybunion Golf Club, which graces the blustery gray coast of County Kerry. The closing stretch of its Old Course is considered among the most difficult anywhere, a “true test of golf,” to quote five-time British Open champion Tom Watson. Lahinch Golf Club, in nearby County Clare, rivals its neighbor in both beauty and popularity, with an Old Course that undulates along the rugged coastline of Liscannor Bay, hiding greens, testing challengers, and earning the nickname “the St. Andrew’s of Ireland,” in reverence of the famed Scottish links (see p. 45). Between these two landmarks stands the much younger but equally impressive Doonbeg Golf Club. Opened in 2002, the course was designed by Greg Norman, who marveled at the mountainous dunes along Doughmore Bay and took full advantage of their natural offerings.
The riches don’t end there. Waterville Links winds along Ballinskelligs Bay, and boasts inspiring views of the water and the Macgillycuddy Reeks mountain range. Killarney National Park’s three courses can be found at the Killarney Golf & Fishing Club. The most revered is Killeen: Reopened in 2006, it now makes even better use of its position along Lough Leane, the largest freshwater lake of the region as well as an enchanting backdrop (and obstacle to avoid). The outstanding Arnold Palmer–designed Tralee is an invigorating course that hugs the Atlantic before snaking through towering dunes and crossing treacherous ravines, leaving its players to understand why Palmer claimed that he “designed the first nine, but surely God designed the back nine.”
Ballybunion golfers must factor the coastal winds into their swings.
BALLYBUNION GOLF CLUB: Tel 353/68-27146; www.ballybuniongolfclub.ie. Cost: greens fees from $56 (off-peak), from $90 (peak). LAHINCH GOLF CLUB: Tel 353/65-708-1003; www.lahinchgolf.com. Cost: greens fees from $140. DOONBEG GOLF CLUB: Tel 353/65-905-5602; www.doonbeggolfclub.com. Cost: greens fees from $130 (off-peak), from $185 (peak). WATERVILLE GOLF LINKS: Tel 353/66-947-4102; www.watervillegolfclub.ie. Cost: greens fees from $85 (off-peak), from $210 (peak). KILLARNEY GOLF & FISHING CLUB: Tel 353/64-663-1034; www.killarney-golf.com. Cost: greens fees from $70. TRALEE GOLF CLUB: Tel 353/66-713-6379; www.traleegolfclub.com. Cost: greens fees $255. HOW: U.S.-based Irish Links specializes in custom-designed golf tours to all of Ireland’s champion links. Tel 800-824-6538 or 203-363-0970; www.irish-links.com. BEST TIME: Apr–Sep for nicest weather and when nonmembers are most welcomed.
Heavenly Music and Divine Inspiration
CORK JAZZ FESTIVAL AND BLARNEY CASTLE
County Cork, Ireland
Cork may be Ireland’s number two city, but it hosts the country’s number one jazz festival, which provides a long weekend of fun before the chill of winter settles in. The city is the south’s sporting and commercial capital and is the source of two well-loved dry stouts, Murphy’s and Beamish—still it is their chief competitor, Guinness, that sponsors the fest, a city staple since 1978. Beer plays a vital role in keeping the beat, though one overshadowed by the power, quality, and diversity of the music in a country in love with its musical heritage. The big-time international names perform in major venues around town, but the pubs and street corners can offer up some of the festival’s most inspiring, and spontaneous, performances by up-and-coming talents. The enthusiasm for the arts also includes poetry readings, gallery shows, film screenings, and concerts showcasing hip-hop, blues, and world music. But jazz is the clear driver, so much so that a concurrent jazz festival runs in neighboring Kinsale (18 miles southwest). For a dose of traditional music, stop by An Spailpín Fánac (The Migrant Laborer), a classic Irish pub. More Irish hospitality can be found just a short walk from the city center at the Hayfield Manor, a family-run hotel that combines the warmth and charm of a 19th-century manor house with modern amenities and st
rikingly attentive service.
Don’t miss your chance to attain the “gift of the gab” by kissing the Blarney Stone. Join the hordes that come from the distant corners of the world to clamber up the steep steps of 500-year-old Blarney Castle, 5 miles northwest of Cork. Then lie on your back over a sheer drop of 120 feet (strong-armed “holders” guarantee that there are no mishaps) to kiss a rock believed to have made its way here in 1314 from Scotland. Regardless of its origin, the stone was always believed to have special powers and remains one of the country’s most enduring symbols.
WHERE: 76 miles/122 km southeast of Shannon. CORK JAZZ FESTIVAL: www.corkjazzfestival.com. When: 4 days in late Oct. AN SPAILPÍN FÁNAC: Tel 353/21-427-7949. HAYFIELD MANOR HOTEL: Tel 353/21-484-5900; www.hayfieldmanor.ie. Cost: from $210 (off-peak), from $330 (peak). BLARNEY CASTLE: Tel 353/21-438-5252; www.blarneycastle.ie.htm.
From Famine to Food Revolution
CULINARY CORK
County Cork, Ireland
County Cork once saw masses of emigrants fleeing the 19th-century famine, known as the Great Hunger, but today it’s the epicenter of Ireland’s culinary reawakening and Slow Food movement. Its reputation as a food capital was launched when Myrtle Allen opened the restaurant at Ballymaloe House in 1964, and grew as her daughter-in-law Darina founded Ballymaloe’s now famous Cookery School. With orchards, gardens, and a 100-acre farm outside its front door, Ballymaloe emphasizes cooking the freshest ingredients simply. Darina helped found the nearby farmers market in Midleton, which is known for its food festival, its former Jameson distillery with 18th-century mill, and its beloved Farmgate Restaurant.
1,000 Places to See Before You Die Page 10