Most tourists today visit the largest island, Inishmore (Inis Mór), and Dún Aengus, the haunting ruins of a 4,000-year-old megalithic cliff fort. Every summer, the smallest island, Inisheer (Inis Oirr), hosts Craiceann (Irish for “skin”), a traditional bodhrán, or drum festival. Least-visited Inishmaan (Inis Meáin), the middle island, holds a charm all its own, known for its fishing nets piled on inverted currachs (traditional rowing boats) and a landscape divided into geometric labyrinths by endless stone walls and a population of just 200. Synge spent most of his time here, writing in a sheltered spot within a semicircle of stones and perched on a cliff edge looking over the ocean’s whitecapped waves. The spot is now marked with a stone plaque reading Cathaoir Synge (“Synge’s chair”). During summers here (a time that inspired The Playboy of the Western World, Riders to the Sea, and The Aran Islands), Synge lived in a thatched cottage that is now a seasonal museum filled with Synge memorabilia, and run by a descendant of his original host.
You can find a cluster of traditional B&Bs on Inishmaan, but for a unique experience, seek out the newly built Inis Meáin Restaurant & Suites. Its streamlined style complements the surroundings with a simple exterior and five spare rooms that recall the islands’ monastic history, albeit luxuriously: Each has panoramic windows, an outdoor terrace, bikes, and fishing rods. Owners Marie-Therese and Ruairí de Blacam (a chef and island native) serve simple meals made with local ingredients: island vegetable soup, just-caught lobster and crab, and pudding with foraged-berry compote.
Each island holds a Pátrún (patron saint) festival in summertime that features boat races, donkey rides, and dancing on the piers. On June 23, known as St. John’s Eve, islanders light bonfires and keep them alive long into the night, a custom that harks back to a pre-Christian summer solstice ritual once practiced all over Ireland.
WHERE: 30 miles/48 km off the coast of Galway City. HOW: year-round ferries from Rossaveal, outside Galway City. Tel 353/91-568-903; www.aranislandferries.com. High-season ferries from Doolin, County Clare. Tel 353/65-707-4455; www.doolinferries.com. INIS MEÁIN RESTAURANT & SUITES: Tel 353/86-826-6026; www.inismeain.com. Cost: $355; dinner $65. When: Apr–Oct. BEST TIMES: Jun 23 for St. John’s Eve; Jun and Aug for Pátrún festivals; late Jun for Inisheer Craiceann.
The Wild West
CONNEMARA
County Galway, Ireland
Connemara is difficult to pinpoint: It is not a town or a valley, but a ruggedly poetic corner of County Galway, a region of Ireland known for its romantic landscape and peat bogs. Oscar Wilde called it a “savage beauty.” Wild, lonely, and for the most part uninhabited, Connemara makes up the western third of the county and was once part of the biggest private estate in Ireland.
From its perch along the Atlantic, Clifden, the quaint, unofficial capital of the region, affords excellent views as well as easy access to the immensely scenic Sky Road, one of western Ireland’s most delightful (and less trafficked) drives. The steep and narrow single lane twists and turns along the coastline to offer glimpses of the Twelve Bens, a dozen sharp—often mist-shrouded—gray peaks that culminate at 2,388 feet. This is the untamed heart of the Connemara National Park, 3,800 acres of heaths, grasslands, and some of Ireland’s best hiking trails. Herds of red deer and Connemara ponies, the only horse breed native to Ireland, can sometimes be glimpsed roaming the hills. Near the entrance to the park, family-run Rosleague Manor, a two-story Regency home, draws those seeking comfortable quarters. It is renowned for its dinners—of seafood, local lamb, and home-grown vegetables—that epitomize the spirit and taste of Connemara.
Standing alone by a lake amid glorious mountains, the isolated Delphi Lodge provides access to some of the best salmon and sea trout fishing in the west. The ambience is that of a relaxed country estate, where dinners take place at a large communal table often overseen by the amiable owner and host. Although an expert angler’s heaven, Delphi also caters to novices, who enjoy weekend courses, run several times a year, and nonanglers who come merely for the solitude, serenity, and verdant surroundings.
The Cashel House, a gracious estate with its own stables, offers you the region’s natural wonders without leaving the property. Idyllic paths meander past award-winning gardens and through 50 stream-crossed acres of rolling hills, shaded woodland, and even a small private beach. Choose from dozing in front of a peat fire, an afternoon of biking or boating, or the glory of getting lost in a good book. Evenings bring sophisticated but unpretentious meals.
The ruins of Clifden Castle stand along the seashore.
WHERE: Clifden is 50 miles/80 km northwest of Galway. CONNEMARA NATIONAL PARK: Tel 353/95-41323; www.connemaranationalpark.ie. ROSLEAGUE MANOR: Tel 353/95-41101; www.rosleague.com. Cost: from $195 (off-peak), from $290 (peak); dinner $45. When: Mar–Oct. DELPHI LODGE: Tel 353/95-42222; www.delphilodge.ie. Cost: from $280; dinner $70. When: closed Nov–Feb. CASHEL HOUSE: Tel 353/95-31001; www.cashel-house-hotel.com. Cost: $240 (off-peak), $340 (peak); dinner $70. BEST TIMES: in Clifden: mid-Sep for Arts Festival; 3rd Thurs in Aug for Connemara Pony Show. Fishing: Feb–May for spring salmon; Jun–Jul for grilse; Aug–Sep for sea trout.
Ireland’s Most Festive Town
GALWAY
County Galway, Ireland
Poised at the edge of Europe, Galway is Ireland’s unofficial arts capital. It’s also been known since 1954 for celebrating the oyster, which gets its due at a massive festival in September. Foodies also make time for the short trip to the neighboring fishing village of Kilcolgan for a meal at Moran’s Oyster Cottage, originally opened in 1797 and considered bivalve headquarters since 1966.
As for those pleasures not enjoyed on the half shell, Galway hosts Ireland’s largest interdisciplinary arts extravaganza, with public performances including citywide dancing in the streets; a festival of medieval, Renaissance, and Baroque music; major literary events; and Ireland’s leading film festival. That’s not to mention the Galway Races, which attract around 150,000 horse racing fans, and a festival of Galway hookers, traditional sailboats constructed for rough seas, with races, demos of rope skills and man-overboard recovery techniques. You can sip a “Galway Hooker” of another kind while you’re celebrating—an Irish Pale Ale, made at a local craft brewery.
Anglo-Normans captured the fishing village of Galway from natives in the 13th century. It then became a major port led by 14 merchant families, earning it the moniker “the City of Tribes.” Traces of Galway’s past linger in its Medieval Quarter, in Lynch’s Castle, and in its narrow, cobbled lanes. Only one gate still stands from the medieval stone walls that used to surround the city, the Spanish Arch, along the brisk, energetic Corrib River, which empties into Galway Bay. Today the arch leads to the Galway City Museum. Across the Corrib lies the old fishing quarter of Claddagh, where the world-famous ring—two hands clasping a crowned heart, symbolizing friendship, loyalty, and love—originated.
Near the Spanish Arch, Ard Bia (“high food”) at Nimmos serves Galway’s finest fare in a hewn-stone former boathouse. A café during the day and restaurant after dark, this quirky, award-winning eatery dishes up cuisine befitting Galway’s international port heritage: contemporary Irish fare with faint Middle Eastern and Moroccan touches. For another taste of Galway’s food-trade past, visit the church square, where you’ll find Sheridan’s Cheesemongers, a great shop for local and European artisanal cheeses, provisions, and wine. On Saturday mornings the square bustles with a busy farmers market.
WHERE: 52 miles/84 km north of Shannon. VISITOR INFO: www.discoverireland.ie. MORAN’S: Tel 353/91-796113; www.moransoystercottage.com. Cost: dinner $50. ARD BIA AT NIMMOS: Tel 353/91-539897; www.ardbia.com. Cost: lunch $30. BEST TIMES: Apr for Cúirt International Festival of Literature; May for Galway Early Music Festival; Jul for Galway Arts Festival, Galway Film Festival, Galway Races; Aug for Cruinniú na mBád (Traditional Boat Festival); Sep for International Oyster Festival.
Last Stop Before Brooklyn
DINGLE PENINSULA
County K
erry, Ireland
The westernmost point in Europe juts out fiercely and dramatically into the Atlantic: “Next parish to America,” as the saying goes. The lilt of Irish Gaelic is still heard here, and Celtic monuments to ancient Christianity litter the rugged and spectacularly scenic coastline. One of many peninsulas along Ireland’s west coast (see next page), the windswept Dingle Peninsula is especially raw and beautiful, extending 30 miles and from 5 to 12 miles across, providing hikers, cyclists, and motorists with a vast and visually complex expanse of water and shore. As you wind along the coastline or up and over sinuous Conor Pass, you’ll take in breathtaking views of the sparsely vegetated slopes leading to the sea. Around the tip of the peninsula, you can see the seven Blasket Islands. Evacuated in 1953 and uninhabited since, they once gave rise to a unique body of literature and make for a mysterious, near-mystical destination when the sea is not too rough.
Dingle is the prettiest town in all of County Kerry, still reminiscing about its moment in the limelight when, in 1969, Robert Mitchum (and a sizable Hollywood contingent) arrived to film Ryan’s Daughter. In the cheerily painted town is a collection of pottery shops, alternative bookstores, and the country’s highest pub-per-person ratio for its 2,000 residents; you can expect live, foot-tapping music most nights. Making the most of the seaside location, Out of the Blue, a small, colorful seafood-only restaurant, is open exclusively when there’s a worthy fresh catch (thankfully, most of the time). It serves a delectable selection of traditional and inventive preparations and tops off the meal with scrumptious desserts. Doyle’s is a friendly competitor and a longtime favorite for classics (seafood chowder) to more innovative (salmon mousse or fish tempura) in a friendly environment.
Walk home full and tipsy to the Castlewood House, a large, elegant B&B with luxurious rooms offering views of Dingle Bay and a breakfast you won’t soon forget.
Seaside Dingle is full of delightful shops and pubs.
WHERE: 95 miles/153 km southwest of Shannon. OUT OF THE BLUE: Tel 353/66-915-0811; www.outoftheblue.ie. Cost: dinner $60. When: mid-Mar–Oct. DOYLE’S: Tel 353/66-915-2674; www.doylesofdingle.com. Cost: dinner $60. CASTLEWOOD HOUSE: Tel 353/66-915-2788; www.castlewooddingle.com. Cost: from $120 (off-peak), from $200 (peak). When: closed Dec–Feb. BEST TIMES: late Apr–mid-Oct for nicest weather; late Apr–early May for Féile na Bealtaine Celtic Arts festival; Aug for Regatta; late Oct for Dingle Food & Wine Festival.
A Dream Drive Along the Iveragh Peninsula
THE RING OF KERRY
County Kerry, Ireland
In a country where every drive guarantees a scenic odyssey, the famed Ring of Kerry, unfurling along a 110-mile coast-hugging road around the Iveragh Peninsula, reveals particularly breathtaking vistas of land, sea, and sky. Couple it with neighboring Dingle Peninsula to the north (see previous page) and risk visual overload.
Most drivers begin in Killarney, an attractive village near the ivy-covered Victorian mansion Muckross House, now a museum of County Kerry folklore and history. The elegant, lakeside property serves as the entrance to car-free Killarney National Park, the county’s centerpiece. Here, waterfalls, heather-covered valleys, woodlands, and abundant wildlife are highlights for cyclists, hikers, and those who choose to ride in two-wheeled, horse-drawn “jaunting cars.”
For an ambitious alternative, skip the road entirely and walk the Kerry Way, a strenuous, 120-mile trek that encircles the peninsula, granting dramatic views without the crowds. You’ll catch a glimpse of the craggy outlines of the mystic Skellig Islands, including Skellig Michael. Its steep, barren slopes also offer opportunities for invigorating hikes and are home to a well-preserved monastery dating back to the 7th century. Boats leave from Port Magee when the sea is calm.
Twenty miles from Killarney, you can settle into quiet, picturesque Kenmare, a 19th-century market town with a surprising profusion of high-quality dining options. Longtime favorite Packie’s is a cozy bistro with a menu known for both the simple (Irish stew, rack of lamb) and the imaginative (gratin of crab and prawns). For an eclectically modern alternative, try Mulcahy’s, offering a blend of international cuisine inflected with Asian touches—from steak to sushi.
The Park Hotel Kenmare is one of Ireland’s most exquisite country-house hotels. Built in 1897, the gray stone manse is known for its splendid collection of antiques, original paintings, and rich tapestries. The warm, welcoming atmosphere is enhanced by a house-proud staff, and its renowned restaurant serves Irish-Continental cuisine. The Sámas (Gaelic for “sensual indulgence”) Spa and the challenging 18-hole golf course (with breathtaking views) heighten the sense of luxury.
Nearby Sheen Falls Lodge sits at the head of Kenmare Bay. Guests find it hard to leave the spacious, beautifully appointed rooms to enjoy the surrounding palm trees, camellias, and fuchsias or the 15-mile stretch of private salmon fishing on the River Sheen. You’ll find sophisticated cuisine highlighted by local ingredients at the lodge’s wide-windowed La Cascade Restaurant, named for the view of a small, floodlit waterfall.
For a stay in town, look no further than the Brook Lane Hotel, a stylish boutique option with comfortable rooms ranging from modern to trendy and a wonderful restaurant. It puts you just a stroll away from Kenmare’s pretty town center.
Torc Waterfall runs within Killarney National Park.
WHERE: Killarney is 84 miles/135 km southwest of Shannon. VISITOR INFO: www.killarney.ie. MUCKROSS HOUSE: www.muckross-house.ie. KILLARNEY NATIONAL PARK: www.killarneynationalpark.ie. KERRY WAY: www.kerryway.com. PACKIE’S: Tel 353/64-664-1508. Cost: dinner $40. MULCAHY’S: Tel 353/64-664-2383. Cost: dinner $50. PARK HOTEL KENMARE: Tel 353/64-664-1200; in the U.S., 800-323-5463; www.parkkenmare.com. Cost: from $560 (off-peak), from $700 (peak); dinner $95. When: closed Nov–mid-Apr. SHEEN FALLS LODGE: Tel 353/64-664-1600; www.sheenfallslodge.ie. Cost: from $435 (off-peak), from $635 (peak); dinner $90. BROOK LANE HOTEL: Tel 353/64-664-2077; www.brooklanehotel.com. Cost: from $150 (off-peak), from $246 (peak). BEST TIMES: Mar–Apr and Oct–Nov to avoid crowds; Aug 15 for Kenmare fair.
Riding and Golf in the Heart of Thoroughbred Country
HORSE COUNTRY
Straffan (County Kildare) and Thomastown (County Kilkenny), Ireland
South of Dublin, the rolling green pastures of counties Kildare and Kilkenny are home to many of Ireland’s 300 stud farms. This is the site of the internationally famous Curragh Racecourse, where the Irish Derby, often referred to as the Churchill Downs of Ireland, is held during the last week in June. The government-owned Irish National Stud, where some of the country’s most famous horses have been born and raised, is the standard for all other stud farms in the country, if not the world. This dedication reflects the Irish passion for horses, a bond that can be traced back to ancient Celtic myths. The original owner of the property had a great love for gardens, and a highlight of the farm’s almost 1,000 acres are the delightfully surprising Japanese Gardens, arguably the most beautiful in Europe. The Kildare Hotel and Country Club (the “K Club”), a 19th-century manor house, is the hub of this 330-acre deluxe sporting resort, every bit as gorgeous as the Irish National Stud, with miles of bridle trails for its own stable of beauties. The alluring green isn’t solely for the horses: One of the K Club’s two 18-hole courses, both designed by Arnold Palmer, is consistently rated among the country’s finest.
The region’s other premier sporting retreat is Mount Juliet; once part of the largest private estate in Ireland, its handsome, ivy-walled stone manor house was built by the Earl of Carrick more than 200 years ago. Its 1,500 acres include unspoiled woodland, pasture, formal gardens, and—the landmark for which it is acclaimed—a manicured 18-hole championship golf course designed by Jack Nicklaus. Dubbed the “Augusta of Europe,” its world-class par-72 course has hosted the Irish Open three times. Cozy, handsomely appointed bedrooms with fireplaces and large windows overlook the rolling grounds that lead to the hotel’s Ballyinch Stud Farm, where Thoroughbreds graze idly in lush meadows. Riding stables provide moun
ts for forays on trails without end, private beats on the River Nore allow 4 miles of trout and salmon fishing, and a spa offers indulgent massages.
Those who prefer to stay in nearby Dublin can check into the historic Shelbourne Hotel. Built in 1824, it is the last survivor among Dublin’s great 19th-century hotels; the Irish Constitution was drafted here in 1922. For years it’s been a destination for those of wealth and pedigree, with public areas full of chandeliers, glowing fireplaces, and fine art. During August’s prestigious Horse Show Week, its famous Horseshoe Bar is the only place to be.
WHERE: Irish National Stud is in Tully, 30 miles/48 km west of Dublin. Tel 353/4-552-2963; www.irish-national-stud.ie. When: closed mid-Dec–mid-Feb. Racing season is Mar–Oct. KILDARE HOTEL: Tel 353/1-601-7200; www.kclub.ie. Cost: from $410 (off-peak), from $550 (peak); greens fees from $130 (off-peak), from $260 (peak). MOUNT JULIET: Tel 353/56-777-3000; www.mountjuliet.ie. Cost: from $190 (off-peak), from $220 (peak); dinner $55; greens fees from $86 (off-peak), from $100 (peak). THE SHELBOURNE HOTEL: Tel 353/1-663-4500; www.theshelbourne.ie. Cost: from $275. BEST TIMES: May–Oct for pleasant weather; late Jun for Irish Derby in Curragh; Aug for Dublin Horse Show Week and Kilkenny Arts Festival.
1,000 Places to See Before You Die Page 12