To get a real taste of Basque landscape and the new Basque cooking influenced by nouvelle cuisine in France, head inland to one of the villages in the hills, such as Aïnhoa, Ascain, or pretty Sare. The last is just 10 minutes from the sea and where you’ll find the Hotel Arraya, whose bakeshop sells gâteau basque, a delicious tart filled with cherry confiture.
For a superb modern take on Basque cuisine, stay overnight at L’Auberge Basque in St-Pée-sur-Nouvelle, known for its striking dining room overlooking the lush countryside. The luxurious Hegia in Hasparren, about 22 miles southeast of Biarritz, is a 1746 timbered Basque country house with five rooms featuring minimalist décor. The star here is the food; guests sit in the kitchen while well-known chef Arnaud Daguin creates updated local produce-driven dishes.
Continue your Basque dining experience in the pretty medieval border village of St-Jean-Pied-de-Port on the road to Santiago, an ancient religious pilgrimage route (see p. 265). Master chef Firmin Arrambide and his son conjure up refined interpretations of Pays Basque cooking at Hôtel Les Pyrénées.
WHERE: 118 miles/190 km southwest of Bordeaux, 20 miles/32 km from the Spanish border. HÔTEL DU PALAIS: Tel 33/5-59-416400; in the U.S., 800-745-8883; www.hotel-du-palais.com. Cost: from $550 (off-peak), from $730 (peak). HOTEL ARRAYA: Tel 33/5-59-542046; www.arraya.com. Cost: from $105. When: closed Nov–Mar. L’AUBERGE BASQUE: Tel 33/5-59-517000; www.aubergebasque.com. Cost: from $130; dinner $85. HEGIA: Tel 33/5-59-517000; www.hegia.com. Cost: $695 (room only), $940 (with meals). LES PYRÉNÉES: Tel 33/5-59-370101; in the U.S., 800-735-2478; www.hotel-les-pyrénées.com. Cost: from $145; dinner $95. BEST TIMES: Jun–Sep for beach weather; Jun–Nov for surfing; early Jul for surf festival.
Basking in Historic Wine Country
BORDEAUX
Aquitaine, France
With more than 7,000 wineries and a wine-making tradition dating back to the 12th century, this fertile region and its famous Médoc, St-Émilion, and Graves vineyards rank among the top in the world. The temperate climate is unlike other wine-growing regions in the country, thanks to Bordeaux’s proximity to the Atlantic Ocean. Fortunately for visiting oenophiles, many private vineyards welcome visitors.
With its rich architectural heritage, the city has more protected buildings than any other French city except Paris; Bordeaux is the largest urban UNESCO World Heritage Site in the world. An expensive revitalization campaign polished up jewels like the Place de la Bourse and the Grand Théâtre, one of Europe’s most beautiful opera houses, with the majestic and voluptuously renovated Regent Grand Hotel Bordeaux across the street. Hotels such as La Maison Bord’eaux, an elegant 18th-century building with a contemporary interior, exemplify the city’s new energy. Even French cuisine has been overhauled—the menu at the prestigious landmark restaurant Le Chapon Fin has been modernized. Those seeking more straightforward, hearty French food—cuisine du terroir—will find it at the venerable La Tupina.
Médoc, north of Bordeaux, is on a triangular, marshy peninsula on the left bank of the Gironde estuary. It is home to some of the more fabled château wines in the country, including Margaux, Latour, Lafite-Rochschild, and Mouton-Rothschild. Rent a car and stay at the Château Cordeillan-Bages in Pauillac, an 18th-century property with a legendary restaurant serving innovative cuisine.
One of the most picturesque villages in the Bordeaux region is St-Émilion, with its steep cobblestone streets and dramatic views of small-parcel vineyards. Enjoy dinner paired with local wines by St-Émilion vintners at the aristocratic, 19th-century Château Grand Barrail estate, located on its own vineyards.
Just south of Bordeaux is the Graves region, and farther south—about 25 miles—is Sauternes, home to France’s most famous sweet white. Sample it at the luxury hotel and spa Les Sources de Caudalie, and even lather it on your face as part of their renowned “vinothérapie”—antioxidant spa treatments using grapes and thermal springs. Surrounded by the vineyards of the Château Smith Haut-Lafite, the chic enclave also has a gourmet restaurant, aristocratic charm, and a wine cellar with more than 15,000 bottles: It’s wine therapy at its best.
WHERE: 308 miles/496 km southwest of Paris. REGENT GRAND HOTEL BORDEAUX: Tel 33/5-57-304444; www.theregentbordeaux.com. Cost: from $400 (off-peak), from $480 (peak). LA MAISON BORD’EAUX: Tel 33/5-56-440045; www.lamaisonbord-eaux.com. Cost: from $205. LE CHAPON FIN: Tel 33/5-56-791010; www.chapon-fin.com. Cost: dinner $95. LA TUPINA: Tel 33/5-56-915637; www.latupina.com. Cost: dinner $60. CHTEAU CORDEILLAN-BAGES: Tel 33/5-56-592424; in the U.S., 800-735-2478; www.cordeillanbages.com. Cost: from $285; dinner $125. When: closed mid-Dec—mid-Feb. CHTEAU GRAND BARRAIL: Tel 33/5-57-553700; www.grand-barrail.com. Cost: from $415; dinner $80. LES SOURCES DE CAUDALIE: Tel 33/5-57-838383; www.sources-caudalie.com. Cost: from $300 (off-peak), from $345 (peak); dinner $115. BEST TIMES: May–Jun and Sep–Oct for pleasant weather.
Brimming Markets, Medieval Hamlets, and the Lascaux Caves
DORDOGNE
Aquitaine, France
A “country of enchantment” is how novelist Henry Miller described the lush green département, or administrative division, of the Dordogne. This hilly region is rich with medieval hamlets, village markets, imposing châteaux, Romanesque churches, and tranquil rivers; it’s also a great place to sample the local foie gras and hearty red wines.
The site of great battles during the Hundred Years’ War, the Dordogne’s most significant history is ancient, revealed underground in painted prehistoric caves, particularly those of Lascaux. Discovered in 1940 and dubbed “Périgord’s Sistine Chapel,” it’s the world’s most extraordinary repository of prehistoric wall paintings, executed by Stone Age artists around 17,000 years ago. Though permanently closed to the public in 1963 to prevent deterioration, you can tour Lascaux II, 200 yards away, a dazzlingly accurate replica. Astonishing drawings of bison, horses, boars, and bulls have been meticulously re-created using the same pigments available to Cro-Magnon man. More than 18,000 ancient artifacts are on display at the National Prehistory Museum in the town of Les Eyzies-de-Tayac-Sireuil, in the Vézère Valley. Don’t miss the Font-de-Gaume cave nearby, with original Paleolithic artwork that approaches Lascaux’s in importance, or Combarelles and Rouffignac, with their bison and mammoth figures.
Of the pretty towns and walled villages dotting the landscape, a favorite is Sarlat-la-Canéda, capital of Périgord Noir and one of the best-preserved medieval towns in France. Outdoor markets brim with local and seasonal delicacies such as truffles, cèpe mushrooms, foie gras, and jars of duck confit. Soak up the charm of the riverside hotel Moulin de l’Abbaye in the pretty market town of Brantôme, north of Périgueux, or head south and enjoy delicious dishes of regional cuisine under linden trees at the Hotel Le Vieux Logis in Trémolat, a former tobacco barn, whose restaurant is considered the best in the Dordogne.
Just beyond the Dordogne border is Rocamadour, a gravity-defying village and pilgrimage site that rises up the side of a cliff. Join the throngs and climb the 216 steps to its cluster of seven medieval chapels. The most important is the Church of Notre Dame, known as the sanctuary of the Black Madonna.
WHERE: Lascaux is 270 miles/432 km southwest of Paris. VISITOR INFO: www.tourisme-lascaux.com. HOW: U.S.-based American Museum of Natural History Expeditions offers tours of the Dordogne, including Lascaux II, and other caves. Tel 800-462-8687 or 212-769-5700; www.amnhexpeditions.org. Cost: 9-day trip from $6,295 inclusive. Originates in Bordeaux. When: May and Sep. MOULIN DE L’ABBAYE: Tel 33/5-53-058022; in the U.S., 800-735-2478; www.moulinabbaye.com. Cost: from $220 (off-peak), from $350 (peak). When: closed mid-Nov–early Apr. LE VIEUX LOGIS: Tel 33/5-53-228006; in the U.S., 800-735-2478; www.vieux-logis.com. Cost: from $270; dinner $75. BEST TIMES: In Sarlat: Aug for music festival; Wed and Sat mornings for markets and Fri evenings in Jul and Aug for night market; Sat from mid-Nov to mid-Mar for truffle and foie gras markets; mid-Jan for truffle festival.
The Pastoral Birthplace of Spa Cuisine
LES PRÉS D’EUGÉNIE
Aquitaine, France
Nestled in the heart of farm country in the southwestern corner of France, the tiny backwater village of Eugénie-les-Bains is named in honor of the fashionable Empress Eugénie, consort of Napoleon III. She spent many summer weeks here in the late 1800s, charmed by the town’s pastoral setting and ancient thermal springs. Long overlooked by time and tourism, the hamlet was brought back to life in 1973 with the arrival of master chef Michel Guérard and his wife, Christine. They transformed a 16-acre farm in the heart of this village near Biarritz (see p. 100) into Les Prés d’Eugénie, a luxury spa and gastronomic retreat based on his famous cuisine minceur, or spa cuisine, which helped spawn the nouvelle cuisine revolution. Nightly or weekly stays here comprise “cures” for losing weight or treating aching bones while indulging in gourmand calorie-conscious meals. Visitors who are of the calories-to-the-wind school can opt for Guérard’s elaborate full-tilt gourmand menu.
Eugénie-les-Bains consists almost entirely of the meticulously run Guérard fiefdom: two spas (the original plus the new luxury La Ferme Thermale), three restaurants, and five charming guest hotels ranging from refined (the sumptuous Les Prés d’Eugénie Hôtel) to rustic (the simpler, country-style Maison Rose). Guests can use Eugénie-les-Bains as a base for exploring the serene forested environs, including the nearby mountain town of Pau, the birthplace of Henri IV, or the beautiful Pyrenees and Basque region to the south. But most find it hard to leave the comfort of this quiet village that once enchanted an empress and her coterie.
WHERE: 87 miles/140 km south of Bordeaux. Tel 33/5-58-050607; in the U.S., 800-735-2478; www.michelguerard.com. Cost: Les Prés d’Eugénie Hotel from $440 (off-peak), from $515 (peak); La Maison Rose from $200 (off-peak), from $285 (peak); dinner at La Ferme aux Grives $90, gourmand menu $226. BEST TIMES: Apr–Jun and Sep–Oct for pleasant weather.
Seaside Resorts, Fresh Oysters, and Medieval Ramparts
BRITTANY’S EMERALD COAST
Brittany, France
The rugged Emerald Coast of north Brittany (Bretagne) gets its name from the green-blue color of the sea and a dramatic landscape as precious as any gem, with moors, steep cliffs, curving sandy beaches, galloping high tides, and elegant seaside resorts. The 5,000-year-old megaliths found inland reveal the region’s deep Celtic roots.
One of the best-preserved and prettiest towns in Brittany is Dinan, noted for its medieval architecture. Wander the old city’s cobblestone streets or if you’re visiting in July of an even year, take part in the largest medieval festival in Europe, the Fête des Ramparts. A short drive north, along the Rance River on a rocky bluff, is the elegant Belle Époque sea resort town of Dinard, popular in the 1920s with British aristocrats, artists such as Picasso, and Hollywood’s elite. Among the town’s many Victorian-style villas is one of the coast’s most gracious inns, the Grand Hotel Barrière. Built in 1858 in the striking Second Empire style, it is distinguished by rich interiors, sculpted gardens, and views of the ramparts of St-Malo, across the Rance.
In the 16th to 18th centuries, the elegant walled port town of St-Malo was a hot spot for sailors, corsairs, and explorers. Retreating Nazis set it on fire in 1944, but it was largely rebuilt and much of the original architectural design remains. The town castle houses a museum devoted to native son Jacques Cartier, who helped France claim Quebec (see p. 940) in the 16th century. Enjoy a cozy, friendly retreat from the summer tourist fray at Hotel Elizabeth, where breakfast is served under 400-year-old wooden beams.
Just east of St-Malo is Cancale, a picturesque fishing village known as the “Oyster Capital of Brittany.” Indulge in a few, cracked open by blue apron–clad fishmongers, at the wooden stalls of the marché aux huitres (oyster market). The best place to enjoy a meal of the local catch is at Le Coquillage, in the elegant hotel Château Richeux, a refurbished 1920s villa in nearby Le Buot. Savor fresh dishes as you sip a chilled glass of Muscadet, enjoying the view of the bay of Mont St-Michel, where the dramatic Gothic Benedictine abbey stands (see p. 110).
Oysters rule in Cancale, the seafood capital of Brittany.
WHERE: The Emerald Coast runs from St-Brieuc to Cancale, about 250 miles/400 km north of Paris. GRAND HOTEL BARRIÈRE: Tel 33/2-99-882626; in the U.S., 800-745-8883; www.lucienbarriere.com. Cost: from $200. When: closed Dec–Feb. HOTEL ELIZABETH: Tel 33/2-99-562498; www.st-malo-hotel-elizabeth.com. Cost: from $110. CHTEAU RICHEUX: Tel 33/2-99-896476; www.maisons-de-bricourt.com. Cost: from $235; dinner $75. BEST TIMES: Apr–Jun and Sep–Oct for nice weather and fewer crowds; Jul in even years for Fête des Ramparts medieval festival in Dinan; mid-Aug for France’s best indie rock festival, La Route du Rock, in St-Malo; Oct for British Film Festival in Dinard.
A Trio of Island Beauties
BELLE-ÎLE, ÎLE DE RÉ, AND ÎLE DE PORQUEROLLES
Brittany, Poitou-Charentes, and Provence-Alpes-Côte d’Azur, France
France has several coasts but only a handful of islands. Three in particular are wonderful places to unwind and live the local life, especially offseason. The sophisticated yet laid-back Belle-île-en-Mer, off the coast of Brittany near Quiberon, features rugged shorelines, long, sandy beaches, grassy moors with ancient Celtic menhirs, and untrafficked dirt roads perfect for biking. Pretty pastel buildings line the port of Sauzon, on the northern tip, and the peaceful, tastefully decorated rooms of Hotel la Désirade are near the dramatic cliffs immortalized by Claude Monet.
Farther south is the chic, genteel Île de Ré, near La Rochelle, whose year-round residents make their living from oysters, salt, and wine. In August, the island becomes a favorite spot for well-heeled Parisians seeking relaxation, and its population increases twelvefold. Bike along the flat, 19-mile-long island, past whitewashed homes with green shutters and seafood shacks serving mussels cooked over pine-needle fires. Or climb the Phare des Baleines (Whales Lighthouse) for a view of the untamed Conche des Baleines, a vast, sandy beach on the north coast. The seawater and climate make the island an ideal thalassotherapy center; the best spa is at Le Richelieu, one of the island’s upscale hotels also known for its excellent restaurant. The Hotel de Toiras is a classically decorated 17th-century building overlooking the St-Martin-de-Ré harbor; for a more beachy feel, try the simple but stylish Hotel L’Océan.
Visiting the 4-mile-long car-free, state-protected Mediterranean Île de Porquerolles, near Toulon, is like going back in time—the wild subtropical shoreline, forests, and beaches bounded by heather, scented myrtle, and pine trees suggest what the French Riviera (see p. 128) might have been like a century ago. With only 400 residents, hotels are limited, but the Mas du Langoustier is a good choice. Decorated in antique Provençal style, it serves sophisticated meals on an outdoor terrace, accompanied by a glass of rosé and a beautiful view.
WHERE: Belle-Île is 101 miles/162 km west of Nantes. Île de Ré is 295 miles/475 km southwest of Paris. Île de Porquerolles is 24 miles/39 km southeast of Toulon. HOTEL LA DÉSIRADE: Tel 33/2-97-317070; www.hotel-la-desirade.com. Cost: from $195 (off-peak), from $250 (peak). LE RICHELIEU: Tel 33/5-46-096070; www.hotel-le-richelieu.com. Cost: from $170 (off-peak), from $300 (peak). HOTEL DE TOIRAS: Tel 33/5-46-354032; in the U.S., 800-735-2478; www.hotel-de-toiras.com. Cost: from $195 (off-peak), from $400 (peak). HOTEL L’OCÉAN: Tel 33/5-46-092307; www.re-hotel-ocean.com. Cost: from $110. HOTEL MAS DU LANGOUSTIER: Tel 33/4-94-583009; www.langoustier.com. Cost: from $275. BEST TIMES: May–Oct for nicest weather; late Jul–Aug for opera festival in Belle-Île, the largest in western France.
A Premier Wine Region Rich in History
BURGUNDY
France
Chassagne-Montrachet. Meursault. Pommard. The Burgundy region produces some of the world’s finest wines. This bucolic region also helped define classic French cuisine with dishes such as escargots (snails) and boeuf bourguignon (beef Burgundy) and has more Romanesque monasteries than any other area in France. Church-owned properties were divided up after the French Revolution, leaving Burgundy with more than 4,500 small, mostly fami
ly-run wineries today.
Some of the best lie along the scenic 50-mile Route des Grands Crus that runs from Dijon to Santenay; they include Côte de Nuits and Côte de Beaune (others are Chablis, Côte de Chalonnais, Côte Maçonnais, and Beaujolais to the south). It’s best to call ahead for vineyard tours in such iconic villages as Puligny-Montrachet, Vosne-Romanée, or Aloxe-Corton because not all are open to the public.
Once ruled by dukes wielding more power than kings, Burgundy’s regional capital and only real city, Dijon, retains vestiges of its medieval influence, with beautiful half-timbered houses and mansions. Farther south, in the pretty 2,000-year-old town of Beaune, a lively restaurant scene has sprung up—choose from more than 500 wines at the elegant, contemporary Bistro de l’Hôtel in L’Hôtel de Beaune, or sample traditional Burgundian dishes at Ma Cuisine, an old-time favorite with wine-industry professionals. The chic Hôtel le Cep’s antiques-filled rooms are named after regional grand cru wines.
The village of Saulieu, outside Beaune, helped put French cuisine on the map, thanks to the late, great chef Bernard Loiseau. His spirit lives on at the Relais Bernard Loiseau, whose restaurant continues to draw gastronomes to his healthy cuisine légère, showcasing local produce with little cream or butter.
Nearby, the spectacular 11th-century Basilique Ste-Madeleine—a masterpiece of light and space—perches on a hill in Vézelay with commanding views. At the foot of Vézelay in St-Père-sous-Vézelay is L’Espérance, where revered chef Marc Meneau and his wife, Françoise, gracefully combine rural ease with effortless sophistication. Enjoy peaceful surroundings by staying nearby at the 15th century Château de Vault-de-Lugny on 100 acres of private grounds.
1,000 Places to See Before You Die Page 18