CIMETIÈRE DU PÈRE-LACHAISE—The world’s most visited cemetery opened its one-way doors in 1804, and today its 69,000 ornate tombs form an open-air sculpture garden. Among the 800,000 souls who call this place “home” are Chopin, Molière, Proust, Gertrude Stein, Colette, Sarah Bernhardt, Yves Montand, Édith Piaf, and Isadora Duncan. Especially popular are the graves of Oscar Wilde and 1960s rock star Jim Morrison. INFO: Tel 33/1-55-258210; www.pere-lachaise.com.
TOUR EIFFEL—Possibly the most recognized structure in the world, the Eiffel Tower was built as a temporary centerpiece for the 1889 Universal Exhibition; the much maligned “metal asparagus” was saved from demolition only because, as the tallest structure in Europe at the time (1,063 feet high), it was useful as a radio tower. Today it’s the symbol of Paris, providing a view of up to 40 miles from its observation platforms. On its second level at 400 feet, Alain Ducasse’s restaurant Le Jules Verne gives new meaning to the term “haute cuisine”; should your budget not match those heights, dine on the first level at 58 Tour Eiffel. INFO: Tel 33/8-92-701239; www.tour-eiffel.fr. LE JULES VERNE: Tel 33/1-45-556144; www.lejulesverne-paris.com. Cost: dinner $190. 58 TOUR EIFFEL: Tel 33/1-45-552004; www.restaurants-toureiffel.com. Cost: dinner $45.
Fireworks surround the tower every July 14.
L’HÔTEL NATIONALE DES INVALIDES (NAPOLEON’S TOMB)—This spectacular complex was originally designed in the late 17th century as a hospital and retirement home for French veterans. It features a huge military building erected around a large courtyard, an armory that was plundered at the outset of the French Revolution, and a church with a gilded Baroque dome. In 1840, Napoleon’s remains were moved from the island of St. Helena, where he had died in exile in 1821, to rest in the church. In addition to the tomb, visitors can see the Musée de l’Armée, full of weapons, uniforms, and equipment, and the Musée des Plans-Reliefs, with scale models of various French towns, fortresses, and châteaux. INFO: Tel 33/8-10-113399; www.invalides.org.
THE LOUVRE—Once the largest palace in the world, now one of its largest art museums, the Louvre is home to the Mona Lisa, the armless Venus de Milo, I. M. Pei’s controversial glass pyramid, and some 400,000 works of art—35,000 of which are on permanent display. Stretching for half a mile along the northern banks of the Seine, the palace was initially a medieval fortress and was expanded into a luxurious royal residence. It was designated a museum immediately after the Revolution, and its collection was significantly expanded with spoils of war taken by Napoleon. Today the collections are divided into eight departments, including sculpture, paintings, and antiquities. Exit the museum and delve into the Jardin des Tuileries, gardens laid out in 1664 by André Le Nôtre, designer of the grounds at Versailles (see p. 118). They form one of Paris’s loveliest promenades, dotted with statues and fountains, and link the Louvre with the Place de la Concorde. INFO: Tel 33/1-40-205317; www.louvre.fr.
MUSÉE NATIONAL DU MOYEN AGE—Built in the 15th century as a splendid Gothic residence for the abbot of the Cluny Abbey, the mansion now houses the Museum of the Middle Ages (aka the Cluny Museum). Following the Revolution, Alexandre du Sommerard filled it with a collection of medieval tapestries, statues, crosses and chalices, jewelry, coins, manuscripts, and more. Its most prized possession is The Lady and the Unicorn, a unique series of six late-15th-century tapestries. The site also contains the ruins of 2nd-century Roman baths. INFO: Tel 33/1-53-737800; www.musee-moyenage.fr.
MUSÉE D’ORSAY—Housed in the Neoclassical Gare d’Orsay railroad station (built in 1900), the Musée d’Orsay exhibits works from the years 1848 to 1914, a period that saw the rise of Impressionism, Symbolism, pointillism, realism, Fauvism, and Art Nouveau. The dazzling collection includes works by Degas, Manet, Monet, Cézanne, Renoir, Matisse, and Whistler. If you get a second wind, take in the furniture, architectural drawings and models, photographs, and objets d’art. INFO: Tel 33/1-40-494814; www.musee-orsay.fr.
MUSÉE PICASSO—With more than 3,500 drawings, engravings, paintings, ceramic works, and sculptures donated by the artist’s heirs, the Picasso Museum represents the greatest single collection of the artist’s work in the world. Housed in the 17th-century Hôtel Salé, the museum’s collection also shows Picasso’s personal art collection of such masters as Braque, Cézanne, Matisse, and Modigliani. INFO: Tel 33/1-42-712521; www.musee-picasso.fr.
NOTRE DAME—A “symphony in stone,” according to Victor Hugo, the Cathedral of Notre Dame is the historic, spiritual, and geographic heart of Paris. Its foundation stone was laid by Pope Alexander III in 1163, and construction was completed nearly two centuries later. A 422-step climb to the top of the north tower provides close-ups of the bestiary of gargoyles, the 13-ton bell Emmanuel in the south tower, and a magnificent 360-degree view. INFO: Tel 33/1-42-345610; www.cathedraledeparis.com.
STE-CHAPELLE—The walls of this small chapel, completed in 1248 to house Louis IX’s precious collection of holy relics and one of the supreme achievements of the Middle Ages, form the largest expanse of stained glass in the world—so be sure to visit on a sunny day. Or in the evening when there are candlelit classical concerts in this Gothic jewel box. INFO: Tel 33/1-53-406097; www.monuments-nationaux.fr.
OTHER MUST-DOS
CABARET—Paris’s oldest bar-cabaret and a Montmartre landmark, Au Lapin Agile was frequented by Picasso and Utrillo, among others. This glimpse of Paris past has been the heart of French folk music for decades, with spirited sing-alongs after the tourists leave. In the same neighborhood and easily spotted by its trademark red windmill, the Moulin Rouge puts on much more lavish shows that were immortalized in the posters of Toulouse-Lautrec. AU LAPIN AGILE: Tel 33/1-46-068587; www.au-lapin-agile.com. MOULIN ROUGE: Tel 33/1-53-098282; www.moulinrouge.fr.
BATEAUX MOUCHES—These glass-enclosed boats are to Paris what gondolas are to Venice—a wonderful, unabashedly touristy way to see the city from a different perspective. They ply the waters of the Seine and slip under its famous bridges, providing a glimpse of life along the quais of the refined Right and storied Left banks. INFO: Tel 33/1-42-259610; www.bateauxmouches.com.
ÎLE ST-LOUIS—This small island in the middle of the Seine was created in the 17th century by joining two islets together. Since then, it’s been largely residential, with stately 17th- and 18th-century mansions. One of the most romantic spots is at the western end, around Pont St-Louis and Pont Louis-Philippe. Look for Berthillon to sample its famous ice cream. BERTHILLON: Tel 33/1-43-543161; www.berthillon.fr.
MARCHÉ AUX PUCES DE ST-OUEN—A must for every flea-market lover, this enormous market consists of thousands of vendors in a dozen different sections, selling everything under the sun, including one-of-a-kind finds for early birds with sharp eyes. It’s the largest in Europe, held Saturday, Sunday, and Monday—and, yes, that might be that famous American designer you see sleuthing around. INFO: www.parispuces.com.
MUSÉE DE L’ORANGERIE—This small but perfectly formed museum exhibits Impressionist and Post-Impressionist paintings, pastels, watercolors, and other works, by such notables as Cézanne, Matisse, Renoir, Rousseau, Soutine, and Utrillo. The main reason for a visit, though, is to view Monet’s sublime Water Lilies, eight enormous panels arranged in two oval rooms built exactly to the artist’s specifications. INFO: Tel 33/1-44-778007; www.musee-orangerie.fr.
MUSÉE RODIN—Housed in the sculptor’s 18th-century mansion and surrounded by gardens filled with his works, this museum is one of the most relaxing spots in Paris. The Thinker is instantly recognizable, but don’t miss The Burghers of Calais, The Cathedral, and especially The Kiss, just about the most romantic work ever carved in stone. INFO: Tel 33/1-44-186110; www.musee-rodin.fr.
OPÉRA GARNIER—A Rococo wonder, this opera house completed in 1875 includes a delightful ceiling added in 1964 by Marc Chagall. Lavish performances by the National Opera, the Paris Ballet, and various orchestras promise the ultimate night on the town. INFO: Tel 33/1-71-252423; www.opera-de-paris.fr.
PLACE DES VOSGES—The small, rose-c
olored brick Place des Vosges is the city’s oldest and most beautiful square, planned by Henri IV in the early 17th century and entirely surrounded by arcades. Victor Hugo lived here, at No. 6, and his apartment is now a museum. MAISON DE VICTOR HUGO: Tel 33/1-42-721016; www.musee-hugo.paris.fr.
WHERE TO STAY
L’HÔTEL—For over a century, L’Hôtel was always the right address—or so thought Oscar Wilde, who died here in 1900 in Room 16. Following a stylish yet historically correct renovation, today it’s a chic, upscale St-Germain address for a new generation of savvy travelers. INFO: Tel 33/1-44-419900; www.l-hotel.com. Cost: from $380.
HÔTEL DU PETIT MOULIN—Everyone’s favorite boutique hotel in the Marais, the Little Mill (it’s housed in a bakery dating back to the early 17th century) is courtesy of designer Christian Lacroix. Rooms are decorated in styles ranging from medieval and Rococo (toile de Jouy wallpaper, Louis XIV-style chairs) to modern, with large floral murals and mirrors that are just this side of kitsch. INFO: Tel 33/1-42-741010; www.hoteldupetitmoulin.com. Cost: from $270.
HÔTEL SAINTE-BEUVE—A very Parisian experience that won’t break the bank, this boutique hotel off the Blvd Raspail is a 5-minute walk to the Luxembourg Gardens. The 22 guest rooms have been updated by British designer David Hicks and face a quiet street. INFO: Tel 33/1-45-482007; www.parishotelcharme.com. Cost: from $230.
PALACE HOTELS—France has a plethora of palace hotels, and Paris’s Right Bank is awash in them. Step into the quiet, marbled lobby of the fabled Hôtel de Crillon, the 18th-century building where Benjamin Franklin and delegates of Louis XVI signed the treaty recognizing American independence in 1778. Crowned heads, famous entertainers, and VIPs fill the hotel’s livre d’or (guest book) or dine at Les Ambassadeurs, one of Paris’s finest restaurants. Overlooking the Tuileries garden, the Hôtel Meurice has hosted sultans and royalty for nearly two centuries. The Ritz entered the English language as a byword for elegance, and the hotel is just that, with a pink-marble Louis XV interior where you can linger for a spot of tea, a relaxing aperitif at the Hemingway Bar, or a très haute dinner at L’Espadon. At the Plaza Athénée, an army of discreetly professional staff provide the service expected by the discerning guests who stay here. It’s located at the heart of Avenue Montaigne’s famous couturiers and jewelers, and guests enjoy priority at the hotel’s star-studded Alain Ducasse restaurant. HÔTEL DE CRILLON: Tel 33/1-44-711500; in the U.S., 800-888-4747; www.crillon.com. Cost: from $1,010; prix-fixe dinner at Les Ambassadeurs $190. HÔTEL MEURICE: Tel 33/1-44-581010; in the U.S., 800-650-1842; www.meuricehotel.com. Cost: from $895. RITZ HOTEL PARIS: Tel 33/1-43-163030; in the U.S., 800-745-8883; www.ritzparis.com. Cost: from $1,035; prix-fixe dinner at L’Espadon $300. PLAZA ATHÉNÉE: Tel 33/1-53-676665; in the U.S., 800-650-1842; www.plaza-athenee-paris.com. Cost: from $875; prix-fixe dinner at Alain Ducasse $350.
THEMED HOTELS—Paris’s delightful themed hotels, situated largely in the quirky Marais district, put you in the thick of history, literature, and culture. If cinema is your thing, the Hôtel du 7ème Art, with its B&W-movie theme, is just the ticket, and each of its 24 rooms is charmingly different. Awaken your inner neogoth at the Hôtel St-Merry, housed in the remains of a medieval church, with one-of-a-kind rooms containing original features (the flying buttress soaring over the bed in Room 9, the choir-stall bed board in Room 12). Hotel Caron de Beaumarchais is done up like an 18th-century hôtel particulier— the “private mansions” the Marais is so famous for—circa the time of the playwright Beaumarchais, who wrote The Barber of Seville just down the road. HÔTEL DU 7ÈME ART: Tel 33/1-44-548500; www.paris-hotel-7art.com. Cost: from $148. HÔTEL ST-MERRY: Tel 33/1-42-781415; www.hotelmarais.com. Cost: from $160. HÔTEL CARON DE BEAUMARCHAIS: Tel 33/1-42-723412; www.carondebeaumarchais.com. Cost: from $210.
EATING & DRINKING
ANGELINA AND LADURÉE—Replete with marble and gilt, Paris’s most popular salon de thé is opposite the Tuileries garden. Its decadent Mont Blanc pastry takes a backseat only to the richest hot chocolate imaginable. The ornate Ladurée was established in 1862 but looks like it just stepped out of 17th-century Versailles. It is best known for its macaroons, but order just about anything on the menu to experience a confectionary epiphany, including le baiser Ladurée, a showstopping layered almond cake with strawberries and cream. ANGELINA: Tel 33/1-42-608200; www.groupe-bertrand.com/angelina. LADURÉE: Tel 33/1-40-750875; www.laduree.fr.
BRASSERIE LIPP—Waiters still dress in black waistcoats, bowties, and long, crisp white aprons, much as they did when the place opened in 1880. The profiteroles in hot chocolate sauce are reason enough to come, especially if they’re preceded by the best choucroute-and-beer combination this side of Alsace. INFO: Tel 33/1-45-485391. Cost: dinner $55.
THE CAFÉ SCENE—The Left Bank’s St-Germain-des-Prés is the traditional and still-fashionable hub of the café scene, offering a glimpse of Paris from Hemingway’s A Moveable Feast. The venerable Café de Flore and next door Les Deux Magots still draw expats and homegrown intelligentsia, generations after their World War II-era heyday. A completely different take on café society, the Café Marly is discreetly housed under the colonnades of the Louvre’s Richelieu wing and faces I. M. Pei’s stunning glass pyramid. Come for the views, not the service. CAFÉ DE FLORE: Tel 33/1-45-485526; www.cafedeflore.com. LES DEUX MAGOTS: Tel 33/1-45-485525; www.lesdeuxmagots.fr. CAFÉ MARLY: Tel 33/1-49-260660.
Sartre and Hemingway once rubbed elbows at Les Deux Magots.
CHEZ JANOU—A French bistro the way Hollywood would imagine it, this spot just east of the Place des Vosges is perennially popular with both celebs and locals and goes the distance with its Provençal dishes and dozens of types of pastis. INFO: Tel 33/1-42-722841; www.chezjanou.com. Cost: dinner $50.
CHEZ TOINETTE—You won’t be the only foreigner in this cozy and romantic place in the heart of touristy Montmartre. But there are plenty of locals who come for the filet of duck with sage and honey, a longtime specialty. The friendly wait-staff is a welcome plus. INFO: Tel 33/1-42-544436. Cost: dinner $40.
LA COUPOLE—Every meal is a sentimental journey at one of the most legendary scene-making brasseries in Paris since 1927. Cherished by out-of-towners and locals alike, its platters of oysters, mussels, and other delights from the briny deep are served in a cavernous train-station-like Art Deco setting, bustling with faithful clients, who once included Man Ray, Jean-Paul Sartre, and Josephine Baker. INFO: Tel 33/1-43-201420; www.lacoupoleparis.com. Cost: dinner $50.
FAUCHON—This is the city’s most famous food emporium and caterer. Artistically prepared window and counter displays of picture-perfect food are scrutinized as carefully as this season’s runway fashions. This is one-stop-shopping for exquisitely packaged souvenirs for foodie friends back home. A tea salon and brasserie let you sample some of the goods before leaving the premises. INFO: Tel 33/1-70-393800; www.fauchon.fr.
GUY SAVOY—One of Paris’s finest and most innovative restaurants is the elegant domain of a chef extraordinaire. The menus (including two 10-course tasting menus) adhere to the season’s offerings: Come in the fall and you may find a dozen varieties of mushrooms. The ambience is festive, and the décor is warm, sophisticated, and comfortable, accented by the chef’s own art collection. INFO: Tel 33/1-43-804061; www.guysavoy.com. Cost: dinner $275; tasting menus from $355.
JADIS—The buzzword in Paris gastronomic circles these days is néo-bistro, describing a small, informal “new bistro” serving outstanding cuisine under the watch of a talented (and often young) chef. Jadis, with rising-star chef Guillaume Delage at the helm, is the very embodiment of the idea. Expect bistro fare with a twist that makes it near-perfect. INFO: Tel 33/1-45-577320; www.bistrot-jadis.com. Cost: dinner $60.
LE GRAND VÉFOUR—For an unforgettable visual and gustatory experience, the 18th-century setting of chef Guy Martin’s jewelry box restaurant is the epitome of classic French cuisine. You will leave with a better understanding of why the French are known to cook—and decorate—better th
an anyone else. INFO: Tel 33/1-42-965627; www.grand-vefour.com. Cost: dinner $270.
TAILLEVENT—Considered by most critics to be among the city’s top restaurants, Taillevent is presided over by Valérie Vrinat, daughter of the late, consummate host Jean-Claude. Chef Alain Solivérès creates a masterful mélange of old and new. In perfect harmony with the unimpeachable menu is Taillevent’s legendary wine list of more than 1,300 labels managed by four sommeliers; its wine shop is one of Paris’s finest. INFO: Tel 33/1-44-951501; www.taillevent.com. Cost: dinner $250.
DAY TRIPS
CATHÉDRALE NOTRE DAME DE CHARTRES—Chartres’ incomparable Gothic cathedral—the first to use flying buttresses—is known for its unrivaled stained-glass windows as well as the sculptures that decorate it inside and out. The magnificent stained glass covers an expanse of almost 28,000 square feet; its 172 jewel-like windows created by 12th- and 13th-century master artists were saved from destruction during the Revolution due to bureaucratic red tape and during World War II when they were removed piece by piece and hidden for safekeeping. The kaleidoscopic colors—ruby reds, emerald greens, rich golds, and the famous “Chartres blue”—are once again sparkling and vibrant. For the illiterate masses, they served as an illuminated “paupers’ Bible,” familiar narratives that could be read from bottom to top—earth to heaven. WHERE: 57 miles/91 km southwest of Paris. Tel 33/2-37-212207; www.diocese-chartres.com.
CHTEAU DE VERSAILLES—Housing the most flamboyant court since ancient Rome, France’s most-visited château, Versailles, was home to the French monarchy at the height of its glory. The century-long heyday lasted from 1682, when Louis XIV brought his court of more than 6,000 here from Paris, until 1789, when Louis XVI and his queen, Marie Antoinette, were notified that revolutionary mobs were on their way. Of the palace’s 700 rooms, the most famous is the 246-foot-long Galerie des Glaces (Hall of Mirrors), whose 17 large beveled mirrors reflect an equal number of arched windows. The room has witnessed everything from the marriage of Louis XVI and Marie Antoinette to the signing of the Treaty of Versailles after World War I. The elaborately Baroque Grands Appartements (State Apartments) are equally extraordinary. After exploring the palace’s interior, stroll through Versailles’s famous 225-acre park; the formal gardens were designed by the well-known André Le Nôtre. Rather than rush back to Paris, check into the neighboring turn-of-the-century Trianon Palace hotel for the royal pampering once reserved for guests of the Sun King and a restaurant by Gordon Ramsay. WHERE: 17 miles/28 km southwest of Paris. Tel 33/1-30-837800; www.chateauversailles.fr. TRIANON PALACE VERSAILLES: Tel 33/1-30-845000; www.trianonpalace.com. Cost: from $395.
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