ASSISI AND GUBBIO
Umbria, Italy
The humanity, humility, and love for nature of one man, St. Francis, infuse Assisi, a small, pink-hued Umbrian hill town. An enormous basilica was built in honor of the barefoot friar who is buried in the crypt (its size would most likely have mortified him). In the early 13th century, Giotto, whose work was the first to break with the static icons of the Byzantine school, covered much of the upper and lower basilica with remarkable frescoes depicting the life of St. Francis (1182–1226), Italy’s patron saint. More in keeping with the spirit of il poverello is Ermeo delle Carceri (Hermitage of Prisoners), a primitive monastery in the surrounding hills where he and his followers “imprisoned” themselves in prayer. The Basilica di Santa Chiara is dedicated to St. Clare, one of Francis’s most ardent followers, who is buried here. She founded the sister order to the Franciscans, the Poor Clares, who still serve the poor.
An overnight at the family-run Hotel Umbra allows you to enjoy the stillness and beauty of Assisi after the crowds leave. Housed in a 15th-century building, the Umbra affords panoramic views of the serene valley below from its roof terrace. Of the city’s many religious guesthouses welcoming pilgrims from around the world, St. Anthony’s is a central oasis run by the hospitable Franciscan Sisters of the Atonement.
St. Francis is also associated with taming a wolf that was menacing the nearby austere hamlet of Gubbio. Its nickname, City of Silence, still lingers. The town’s roots as a Roman settlement are in evidence at its ancient Roman amphitheater.
From 1387 to 1508, the Montefeltro counts of nearby Urbino (see p. 194) ruled Gubbio, putting up emissaries at their aristocratic guest quarters on the Piazza della Signoria. The premises have been reborn as the Hotel Relais Ducale, offering the same vistas of Gubbio and the Umbrian plains that must have dazzled the dukes’ guests. Reconnect with nature and the countryside that St. Francis so loved with an agriturismo stay at Casa Branca, a lovingly restored farmhouse 10 minutes outside of town.
Frescoes by Giotto, including this one depicting the pope blessing St. Francis, fill much of the interior of the Basilica of San Francesco d’Assisi.
WHERE: 110 miles/177 km northeast of Rome. HOTEL UMBRA: Tel 39/075-812240; www.hotelumbra.it. Cost: from $125. When: closed Jan–mid-Mar. ST. ANTHONY’S GUESTHOUSE: Tel 39/075-812-542; atoneassisi @tiscalinet.it. Cost:$80. When: closed Nov–Feb. RELAIS DUCALE: Tel 39/075-922-0157; www.relaisducale.com. Cost: from $150. CASA BRANCA: Tel 39/075-927-0016; www.casabranca.it. Cost:$115. BEST TIMES: in Assisi: Easter Week for processions and music performances; early May for medieval festival of Calendaggio. In Gubbio: May 15 for Corsa dei Ceri, a raucous race of huge wooden “candles” celebrating patron Sant’ Ubaldo.
High in the Sky, a Romanesque Jewel
IL DUOMO
Orvieto, Umbria, Italy
The dramatically situated hill town of Orvieto commands a position atop a high, flat column of tufa stone more than 1,000 feet above sea level. The Duomo, the centerpiece of this ancient town, can be seen from far across the plains below when the sunlight catches the ornate Gothic façade, covered with carved marble and glistening mosaics. For almost 300 years, beginning in the late 13th century, artists and architects from all over Italy labored to complete this fascinating hybrid of Romanesque, Gothic, and High Renaissance styles. The supreme achievement was the cycle of frescoes that portray the end of the world and cover almost 10,000 square feet of the walls and ceiling of its San Brizio chapel. They were begun by Fra Angelico in 1447 and completed in 1499–1503 by Luca Signorelli and were probably the inspiration for Michelangelo’s Last Judgment in the Vatican’s Sistine Chapel nearly half a century later (see p. 185). (An unimpressed Leonardo da Vinci said the figures reminded him of sacks “stuffed full of nuts.”) Orvieto is also justly famous for its dry white wine, which can be sampled at local wine cellars and restaurants.
I Sette Consoli, behind the cathedral, is one of the finest dining experiences in Umbria for perfect presentations of regional specialties and excellent local wines. La Badia, a beautifully preserved 12th-century abbey at the base of the rock, is now a charming hotel where stone-walled, vaulted guest rooms surround former cloisters and overlook outlying vineyards and olive groves. A few miles outside Orvieto, in San Giorgio, Inncasa provides a perfect country respite. Its old stone manor house and cottages are comfortably decorated with contemporary flair, and the garden-surrounded pool looks out over vineyards to Orvieto in the distance.
Golden mosaics and bas-reliefs adorn the cathedral’s gabled façade.
WHERE: 60 miles/97 km northwest of Rome. I SETTE CONSOLI: Tel 39/0763-343911; www.isetteconsoli.it. Cost: dinner $70. HOTEL LA BADIA: Tel 39/0763-301959; www.labadiahotel.it. Cost: from $225. When: closed early Jan–mid-Mar. INNCASA: Tel 39/0763-393692; www.inncasa.eu. Cost: from $125 (off-peak), from $175 (peak). BEST TIME: late Aug for Orvieto’s Umbria Folk Festival with local food and crafts.
History and the Arts in the Umbrian Hills
PERUGIA
Umbria, Italy
One of Italy’s most beloved hill towns, Perugia is also one of the most ancient, dating back to the days of the pre-Roman Etruscans. Trade and the arts flourished here in the Middle Ages, when much of the city’s fortresslike backdrop was built. The 13th-century Fontana Maggiore, in the centro storico (Old Town) was the terminus of the city’s ancient aqueducts; the nearby Collegio del Cambio, built for money changers and traders, is covered with early Renaissance frescoes; and the Palazzo dei Priori now holds the Galleria Nazionale dell’Umbria, a comprehensive collection of regional sculpture and paintings highlighted by works of native son Pietro Perugino, one of the most important painters of the High Renaissance. Next to chocolate, he may be the city’s best-known export.
Maybe because it’s the only flat strip of land in an exceptionally hilly town or maybe because a vibrant international student population keeps this prosperous city humming (Perugia has been a university center since 1270), but when it’s time for the late-afternoon stroll, or passeggiata, “il Corso” is the place to be. Perugini turn out to shop, chat, and argue soccer scores or political scandals.
Within the ancient city walls, you’ll find the dignified Hotel Brufani Palace, standing atop Perugia’s highest hill for over 120 years. Travelers can also immerse themselves in the nearby Umbrian countryside at the 18th-century Palazzo Terranova, a country hotel of rustic sophistication.
Summer finds Umbria alive with music: In July, one of Italy’s premier jazz festivals, Umbria Jazz takes place; during September, Umbria Music Fest presents a series of regionwide concerts, here and in Spoleto, Assisi, Pescara, and Todi. The famed Spoleto Festival of Two Worlds was established in 1957 by composer Gian Carlo Menotti (and spawned a sister festival in Charleston, S.C.; see p. 867). It presents world-class dance, music, cinema, art, and drama. During the festival, rooms are scarce in Spoleto, so book early to stay at Hotel Gattapone, one of the city’s finest small hotels, with a parklike setting popular with performers and festival-goers.
WHERE: 96 miles/154 km southeast of Florence. GALLERIA NAZIONALE DELL’UMBRIA: Tel 39/075-5866-8410; www.gallerianazionaleumbria.it. HOTEL BRUFANI PALACE: Tel 39/075-573-2541; www.brufanipalace.com. Cost: from $150 (off-peak), from $465 (peak). PALAZZO TERRANOVA: Tel 39/075-857-0083; www.palazzoterranova.com. Cost: from $350 (off-peak), from $630 (peak). When: closed mid-Nov–Feb. UMBRIA JAZZ: www.umbriajazz.com. UMBRIA MUSIC FEST: www.umbriamusicfest.it. SPOLETO FESTIVAL: www.festivaldispoleto.com. HOTEL GATTAPONE: Tel 39/0743-223447; www.hotelgattapone.it. Cost: from $175 (off-peak), from $245 (peak). BEST TIMES: Apr–Jun and Sep–Oct for nicest weather; mid-Jun, Jul, and Sep for various music festivals.
High Life in the Alps
COURMAYEUR AND MONT BLANC
Valle d’Aosta, Italy
Stylish yet old-fashioned Courmayeur is one of the most popular ski resorts in Europe, nestled at the base of Monte Bianco (Mont Blanc, Europe’s highest mountain), which it shares with France, and surrounded
by a dozen other peaks higher than 13,000 feet. Courmayeur’s slopes are geared to beginners as well as die-hard enthusiasts who can enjoy the long ski season from November to April. Some visitors may never strap on a pair of skis, but pass the time strolling the cobblestone streets and enjoying the chic bars, boutiques, and numerous restaurants.
Stunning mountain scenery and cool temperatures make Courmayeur a favorite summer retreat as well. Hikers can follow hundreds of miles of trails, including those of the nearby Parco Nazionale del Gran Paradiso, the former hunting grounds of Vittorio Emanuele, the first king of Italy. Steel-nerved adventurers travel by cable car from nearby La Palud up and over the Mont Blanc Massif, one of the most breathtaking rides in the world (the winter route extends as far as the ski station at Punta Hebronner). Aptly called “Riding the Glaciers,” the trip reaches a dramatic climax when the cable car dangles more than 2,000 feet above a sea of glacial snowfields before arriving at the viewing station high above Chamonix, France (see p. 135). There a mountaintop bar’s sunbathing terrace offers more sensational views.
In the tiny hamlet of Entreves, just outside of Courmayeur, is one of the most famous restaurants in the Italian Alps, La Maison de Filippo. An avalanche of regional selections makes up the bulk of a seemingly endless meal in a festive all-you-can-eat atmosphere. One of the region’s most comfortable retreats is the Mont Blanc Hotel Village, laid out like a small mountain hamlet 5 miles southwest of Courmayeur, in La Salle. All of the rooms are nicely appointed and have big windows and balconies or terraces overlooking scene-stealing Mont Blanc.
Bikers can ride the famed Tour du Mont Blanc route, which lets you circumnavigate the mountain in 4 days.
WHERE: 22 miles/35 km northwest of Aosta. LA MAISON DE FILIPPO: Tel 39/0165-869797; www.lamaison.com. Cost: dinner $65. When: mid-May–mid-Jul and Nov–Dec. MONT BLANC HOTEL VILLAGE: Tel 39/0165-864111; www.hotelmontblanc.it. Cost: from $400 (off-peak), from $540 (peak). When: closed Oct–Nov. BEST TIMES: Feb–Mar for skiing, Jun–Aug for hiking.
“Your visit to Venice becomes a perpetual love affair.”—HENRY JAMES
VENICE
Veneto, Italy
Venice confuses and enchants, so toss the map and let yourself wander. Give in to this fragile, watery world built on 118 small islands and lose yourself among Byzantine domes and palazzos. Step back in time to when Venezia, the queen of the Adriatic, ruled much of the Mediterranean world. Meander through neighborhoods where not much has changed since native son Marco Polo set sail for the distant corners of the world, courtesans and doges passed as shadows in the narrow alleyways, and Casanova glided down the Grand Canal on his way to a nocturnal assignation.
TOP ATTRACTIONS
GALLERIE DELL’ACCADEMIA—The most extensive collection of Venetian masters in the world fills a former church and guild hall with works by Titian, Giorgione, Bellini, Carpaccio, and others. Venice is the colorful backdrop for Tinteretto’s St. Mark Cycle and many other works that reveal how little the city has changed over the centuries. INFO: Tel 39/041-522-2247; www.gallerieaccademia.org.
CA’ D’ORO AND THE GALLERIA GIORGIO FRANCHETTI—A beautiful 15th-century palazzo on the Grand Canal where Titian’s Venus at the Mirror vies with Mantegna’s St. Sebastian for your attention. These and other paintings, sculptures, and furniture were donated to the Italian government by philanthropist Baron Giorgio Franchetti. INFO: Tel 39/041-520-0345; www.cadoro.org.
CHIESA DEI FRARI (CHURCH OF THE FRIARS)—In a city filled with churches, this immense Franciscan bastion, built in the 13th and 14th centuries in San Polo, stands out as a showcase for Titian, including an Assumption depicting the ascension of the Virgin Mary into heaven surrounded by swirling putti (cherubs). INFO: Tel 39/041-522-2637; www.basilicadeifrari.it.
CHIESA DEI SANTI GIOVANNI E PAOLO (CHURCH OF SAINTS JOHN AND PAUL)—The largest church in Venice after St. Mark’s contains the tombs of 25 doges, plus works by Bellini and Veronese, and ceilings that depict New Testament scenes. Andrea del Verrocchio’s famous 15th-century bronze equestrian statue of the mercenary Bartolomeo Colleoni, one of the great masterworks of early Renaissance sculpture, commands the surrounding campo. You can take it all in from the outdoor tables of Rosa Salva, a centuries-old coffeehouse and pastry shop. CAMPO SS. GIOVANNI E PAOLO: Tel 39/041-523-5913.
THE GRAND CANAL—Venice’s Main Street is a 2-mile-long, S-shaped aquatic thoroughfare lined with hundreds of weather-worn Byzantine and Gothic palazzos and abuzz with canal life. Jump aboard the number 1 vaporetto (water bus) and float through 1,000 years of Venetian history, dodging gondolas and delivery boats. Start at either Piazza San Marco or the Santa Lucia train station, and savor the ride at least twice: once by day for rush-hour stimulus and once at night for the quiet, unmatched romance of it all. A cruise by gondola brings you through an enchanting web of more than 150 sleepy back canals—seeing the hidden corners of this unique city built on water.
A centuries-old sumptuary law required that gondolas be painted black, a tradition that continues to this day.
PEGGY GUGGENHEIM COLLECTION—An unfinished 18th-century palazzo on the Grand Canal that was once the home of art collector Peggy Guggenheim is filled with works by Pollock, Brancusi, Picasso, Klee, Rothko, Chagall, and (her husband) Max Ernst—and many other 20th-century artists to whom the American heiress was a patron. Some of the rooms at DD724, an intimate, contemporary hotel next door, overlook the Guggenheim’s sculpture-filled garden. GUGGENHEIM COLLECTION: Tel 39/041-520-6288; www.guggenheim-venice.it. DD724: Tel 39/041-277-0262; www.dd724.it. Cost: from $225 (off-peak), from $575 (peak).
PUNTA DELLA DOGANA MUSEUM OF CONTEMPORARY ART—Overlooking the sea lanes of the lagoon and Piazza San Marco across the Grand Canal, the 17th-century Customs Hall was recently transformed by architect Tadao Ando into a luminous gallery of contemporary art housing the collection of French magnate François Pinault. (Its neighbor, the spectacular Santa Maria della Salute Church, deserves a peek as well.) More of the collector’s masterpieces by Jeff Koons, Cy Twombly, and other luminaries of today’s art world are housed a bit up the Grand Canal in the grand 18th-century Palazzo Grassi. INFO: Tel 39/0445-230313; www.palazzograssi.it.
PIAZZA SAN MARCO AND BASILICA DI SAN MARCO—Napoleon was inspired to call the elegant, colonnaded heart of Venice “the finest drawing room in Europe.” Two bronze Moors atop the 15th-century Torre dell’Orologio (Clock Tower) strike the hour, and the Campanile—a 20th-century re-creation of the 8th-century original, the tallest structure on the Venice skyline—provides a miraculous view over the city. Byzantine and almost mosquelike, the Basilica di San Marco was built as the final resting place of St. Mark, the city’s patron. Reproductions of four bronze horses looted from Constantinople in 1204 preside over the ornate façade (the originals are in St. Mark’s Museum, inside the basilica), and magnificent glittering mosaics cover the dimly lit ceilings and columns. The Pala d’Oro altar screen, one of the basilica’s greatest treasures, is composed of more than 2,000 precious stones and enameled panels. INFO: Tel 39/041-522-5205; www.basilicasanmarco.it.
PALAZZO DUCALE (DOGE’S PALACE)—The pink-and-white marble palace that flanks the basilica and faces St. Mark’s Basin was meant to impress Venice’s wealth and power upon visitors arriving by ship. Doges ruled La Serenissima (the Most Serene Republic) and much of the eastern Mediterranean for 1,000 years from assembly rooms and private apartments here, filled with paintings by Veronese, Tintoretto, and the other Venetian masters. The so-called Bridge of Sighs (Ponte dei Sospiri) links the palace with the Palazzo delle Prigioni, where prisoners were held after being judged by the council. INFO: Tel 39/041-522-4951; www.museiciviciveneziani.it.
The city’s emblem and mascot, the statue of a winged lion near the Palazzo Ducale was looted by Napoleon’s troops in 1797, but was returned in 1815.
SCUOLA GRANDE DI SAN ROCCO—The most renowned of the influential religious and social confraternities that once proliferated in Venice was built in 1515. Some 50 works that Tintorett
o painted for the scuola from 1564 to 1594 constitute the largest collection of his dark and dramatic work anywhere. Gaze upon scenes from the New and Old Testaments, including the enormous Crucifixion, considered Tintoretto’s masterpiece. INFO: Tel 39/041-523-4864; scuolagrandesanrocco.it.
OTHER MUST-DOS
TORCELLO—The green, quasideserted island of Torcello is the idyllic setting for a picnic, far from the crowds of tourists and pigeons in the Piazza San Marco. The terrace tables of Trattoria al Ponte del Diavolo also promise a perfect lunch. Let dessert be a viewing of Torcello’s cathedral and its breathtaking 12th- and 13th-century Byzantine mosaics, some of the most important in Europe. Should you want to spend a night, the stylishly simple Locanda Cipriani (founded by the owner of Harry’s Bar) offers six delightful rooms, fine dining in a casual setting, and romantic ambience. TRATTORIA AL PONTE DEL DIAVOLO: Tel 39/041-730401; www.osteriapontedeldiavolo.com. Cost: lunch $40. LOCANDA CIPRIANI: Tel 39/041-730150; www.locandacipriani.com. Cost: from $280; lunch $50.
CHIESA DELLA PIETÀ (VIVALDI’S CHURCH)—Baroque maestro and native son Antonio Vivaldi worked as choirmaster for the church’s orphanage and conservatory from 1703 to 1741, while composing some of his greatest masterworks. These and other works by contemporaries of the Red Priest are often performed here by candlelight. Hearing a performance of The Four Seasons beneath Tiepolo’s luminous ceiling fresco is magical. INFO: Tel 39/041-522-2171; www.vivaldi.it.
CARNEVALE AND OTHER FESTIVALS—Venice’s hedonistic Carnevale, a season of unbridled and licentious festivities, expired along with the rest of the Republic with the arrival of Napoleon in 1797. It was enthusiastically resuscitated in 1980, complete with rich damasks, cascades of lace, and powdered wigs, elaborate costumes, and everywhere the characters and masks from Italy’s Commedia dell’Arte. Carnevale lasts 2 weeks prior to Ash Wednesday, but Venice remains in a celebratory mood year-round. The Voga Lunga, a kind of aquatic marathon, is a 20-mile race among almost 1,500 boats of all shapes and sizes in late May or early June. The Biennale d’Arte Contemporanea e Architettura, a prestigious exhibition of art (in odd years) and architecture (in even years), runs from June through October. The Biennale’s Venice Film Festival, every August, brings celebs and filmmakers from around the world. The Festa del Redentore, in late July, celebrates the end of the 1578 plague with a pilgrimage across a makeshift temporary bridge over the Giudecca Canal to Andrea Palladio’s church of Il Redentore and with fireworks filling the sky. During the Regata Storica, in early September, gaily decorated gondolas and historic craft of all types glide down the Grand Canal, carrying passengers in historical costume. BIENNALE D’ARTE: Tel 39/041-521-8711; www.labiennale.org. REGATA STORICA: Tel 39/041-241-2988; www.veneziamarketingeventi.it.
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