The kayals are the only way to reach secluded Coconut Lagoon Village, an enclave of 30 gracious tarawads—400-year-old carved wooden bungalows made without nails that were painstakingly dismantled and moved here—along the cool banks of the backwaters. Enjoy the fine spa or lazy poolside R&R in the shade of a nutmeg tree.
Many of Kerala’s old Colonial houses have been converted into guest accommodations as well, including the five charming, traditional waterfront cottages found at Philipkutty’s organic farm. The 45-acre island plantation also serves as an abundant pantry to the amiable Aniamma and her daughter-in-law Anu, from whose kitchen three marvelous feasts appear daily and who happily invite you to join in the preparation or at their table. They’ll then send you off on a canoe-type boat called a vallam to float through the silent backwaters and observe the calmness of everyday life—you’ll witness fishermen in their traditional longboats, children splashing, fishing birds of every kind, and the occasional houseboat, or kettu vallam. Ranging from rustic to exquisite, these refurbished floating guest quarters have become a popular overnight accommodation alternative in recent years.
Most visits to Kerala begin in Kochi (formerly known as Cochin), the state’s fascinating capital. A busy port for more than 1,000 years, it was once the hub of India’s spice trade and is still considered the pepper capital of the world. It is home to a unique people, whose Chinese, Dutch, Portuguese, and British roots and Jewish and Syrian Christian religions are evident in the town’s melting pot of culture, architecture, and cuisine.
The old quarter of Fort Cochin is where you’ll find St. Francis Church, the first European church to be built in India. Vasco Da Gama died and was buried here in 1524, though his remains were eventually returned to Portugal. South of here is the ancient district called Jew Town and the Pardesi Synagogue. Housed in a building that dates back to 1664, it is the oldest synagogue in the Commonwealth of Nations (the congregation, which still has a handful of members, was founded in 1568).
Kochi is a city deservedly proud of its cuisine; to sample it, choose from the day’s catch at the Fort Cochin Restaurant in the Casino Hotel, famed for its great seafood. Its sister hotel, the historic, harborfront Brunton Boatyard, was one of the first of the boutique hotels to open in Fort Cochin and is still the gold standard to which others aspire.
Vallams, propelled by standing polesmen, ply Kerala’s network of canals.
WHERE: 658 miles/1,059 km south of Mumbai. COCONUT LAGOON: Tel 91/484-301-1711; www.cghearth.com. Cost: from $150 (off-peak), from $320 (peak). PHILIPKUTTY’S FARM: Tel 91/482-927-6529; www.philipkuttys farm.com. Cost: from $175 (off-peak), from $240 (peak). CASINO HOTEL: Tel 91/484-301-1711; www.cghearth.com. Cost: from $130; dinner $30. BRUNTON BOATYARD: Tel 91/484-301-1711; www.cghearth.com. Cost: from $175 (off-peak), from $410 (peak). BEST TIMES: Oct–Mar for cool and dry weather; mid-Aug–Sep for the Snake Boat (Chundan Vallam) races, part of the harvest festival of Onam.
On the Trail of India’s 2,500-Year-Old Emblem
BANDHAVGARH AND KANHA NATIONAL PARKS
Madhya Pradesh, India
African safaris have the Big Five must-see animals, but India has these same five (elephant, rhino, buffalo, lion, and leopard) plus one—the tiger. Although they are the largest members of the cat family, India’s tigers have not been able to defend themselves against shrinking habitats and poaching, and the tiger population has dwindled from an estimated 45,000 at the turn of the century to less than 1,500 today. All the remaining six subspecies are endangered, and India is especially struggling to save the Bengal—its national animal.
If you want to glimpse one of these rare beasts, Bandhavgarh National Park, although a relatively small reserve (278 square miles), has one of the subcontinent’s highest densities of tigers per square mile. With a 2,000-year-old fort, a 10th-century statue of Lord Vishnu, and a dense sal-tree jungle, it’s one of India’s most scenic national parks as well. And it gets better: Just 20 minutes from the entrance is a new luxury bush lodge, Mahua Kothi, which offers an unprecedented level of service and amenities in the park. Just 12 guest suites are housed in kutiyas (jungle village huts), decorated in safari style. Set off by foot, jeep, or elephant in search of the Big One, and spot some of the park’s other prolific wildlife along the way: leopards, chitals (spotted deer), guar (Indian bison), nilgai antelope (also known as the blue bull), hyenas, wild dogs, rich birdlife, and 111 species of butterflies.
If time allows for a twofer, it’s a 6-hour drive south of Bandhavgarh to Kanha National Park, where, it is said, Rudyard Kipling found his inspiration for The Jungle Book. One of India’s largest parks, it is one of the nine founding reserves of Project Tiger (launched in 1973 to save the species). You’ll find here beautiful areas of bamboo trees and sal forests, and lush green meadows, which are home to swamp deer, leopards, mongooses, wild boars, and over 200 bird species in addition to tigers. Banjaar Tola offers simple luxury with two elegant, tented camps (of just nine suites each) set on a 90-acre private concession overlooking the park. On the park’s edge, the conservation-minded Wright family have since 1982 owned and run Kipling Camp, a complex of cottages with 15 comfortable double rooms.
India’s iconic tiger is severely endangered.
WHERE: Bandhavgarh National Park is 103 miles/165 km northeast of Jabalpur Airport; Kanha National Park is 99 miles/160 km southeast of Jabalpur Airport. When: parks are closed Jul–Oct. MAHUA KOTHI and BANJAAR TOLA: Tel 91/22-660-11825; in the U.S., 866-969-1825; www.tajsafaris.com. Cost: from $450 per person, all-inclusive (off-peak), from $750 (peak). KIPLING CAMP: Tel 91/11-6519-6377; www.kiplingcamp.com. Cost: from $380, all-inclusive. BEST TIME: Nov–May for pleasant weather.
Erotic Tableaux in the Middle of Nowhere
THE TEMPLES OF KHAJURAHO
Madhya Pradesh, India
In this sleepy little town in central India, a long way from anywhere, a century-long burst of creativity happened during the dynasty of the Chandela kings, a clan of Rajput warriors who ruled between the 10th and 13th centuries and who claimed descent from Chandra, the Moon God. More than 85 temples were built, of which 22 remain. They are decorated with long friezes, which intersperse scenes of daily life with military processions. But the most renowned are highly erotic: Celestial maidens pout and pose while other figures engage in every imaginable position of the Kama Sutra, the ancient Sanskrit treatise on the art of lovemaking. Their extraordinary sexual explicitness makes them as remarkable today as they must have been when they were first unveiled.
The temples, both Hindu and Jain, are divided into three distinct groups—western, eastern, and southern—that are spread over 8 square miles. The western group includes the best-known, oldest, and largest temples and is the site of the Archaeological Museum. Since 2002, the western temple grounds have also served as the dramatic background for some of the country’s best classical dancers, who come together for an annual, weeklong festival of classical (and more recently a bit of modern) dance. They celebrate the marriage of the Hindu gods Shiva and Parvati, to whom some of the temples are dedicated.
The British officer who rediscovered the friezes of the Khajuraho temples in 1838 found himself shocked by their erotic imagery.
WHERE: 385 miles/620 km southeast of Delhi. WHERE TO STAY: Hotel Chandela is about half a mile from the temples. Tel 91/7686-272355-64; www.tajhotels.com. Cost: $125. Hotel Lalit Temple View is more expensive, but is closer to the temples. Tel 91/7686-272111; www.thelalit.com. Cost: from $220. BEST TIMES: Oct–Mar, at sunset when the temples turn a deep shade of red; last week of Feb–early Mar for the Khajuraho Dance Festival.
Architectural Achievements of Mysterious Power
THE CAVE TEMPLES OF AJANTA AND ELLORA
Maharashtra, India
Mumbai may be the pulsating, commercial heart of India, but the country’s soul lies far off in the interior, around Aurangabad and its astonishing hand-hewn cave temples. Of the two cave complexes found here, Ajanta is by far the older, with dozens of chaityas (te
mples) and viharas (monasteries) carved from solid rock faces and known for their lavishly painted frescoes. The 30 Buddhist cave temples date from around 200 B.C. to A.D. 650 but were virtually forgotten until the 19th century, which probably accounts for their excellent state of preservation.
Whereas the Ajanta caves dazzle with their paintings, the 34 rock-cut temples of Ellora, 62 miles southwest, are sculptural masterpieces. Their creation was a feat equivalent to carving an entire cathedral—interior and exterior, roof to floor—out of solid rock, using handheld tools only. Unlike Ajanta, Ellora was located on a major trade route and was used for worship until the 1800s. It is believed that the Buddhist creators of Ajanta moved here after their work was finished there: Of Ellora’s 34 caves, the 12 earliest are Buddhist and were begun in A.D. 600 at approximately the time that work in Ajanta stopped. Work continued until the 11th century, producing 17 Hindu and 5 Jain temples and grottoes. Ellora’s tour de force is the Kailash Temple, whose dimensions and complexity astound; at almost 10,000 square feet, it covers twice the area of the Parthenon in Athens (see p. 156) and is half again as tall. It has been estimated that it took 150 years for approximately 200,000 tons of rock to be removed by some 800 artisans in order to make this single cave temple, the largest known rock-cut temple in the world.
Buddhist monks carved the elaborate chaityas and viharas of the Ajanta caves using only basic tools.
WHERE: Aurangabad is 241 miles/388 km northeast of Mumbai. VISITOR INFO: www.maharashtratourism.gov.in. WHERE TO STAY: The palace-style Taj Residency in Aurangabad offers a pool, good restaurant, and full-day excursions to the caves. Tel 91/24-6613737; in the U.S., 866-969-1825; www.tajhotels.com. Cost: from $170. BEST TIMES: Oct–Mar for nice weather; Nov for Ellora Festival, featuring classical Indian music and dance.
Beloved Landmark
THE TAJ MAHAL PALACE HOTEL
Mumbai, Maharashtra, India
The Taj Mahal Palace, a Mumbai landmark since 1903, is India’s most famous hotel and the very embodiment of opulence. A Victorian extravaganza that is an exotic mix of Moorish and Renaissance style, it gazes serenely over the Arabian Sea and has welcomed a host of luminaries, from maharajas to Mick Jagger.
Splendidly uniformed doormen usher locals and guests into the deliciously cool, gleaming, white-marbled interior of the elegant Palace Wing; the high floors of the 30-story Tower wing, built in 1972, offer views of the sea and the stately Gateway of India. The arched, harborside monument was built by the British to welcome King George V and Queen Mary in 1911 (the only visit to the Raj by a reigning monarch). It was also the point of departure when the last British colonialists left in 1948. From here, catch a breezy ferry ride for the 6-mile trip to Elephanta Island, where a complex of 6th- to 8th-century cave temples honoring the Hindu god Shiva are carved into the rocks. It is an excellent, leafy vantage point for a view of Mumbai’s skyscraper-studded skyline.
Decompress at the hotel’s Jiva Spa, with yoga, meditation, or any of the time-honored Indian holistic healing treatments that rejuvenate after a frenzied day of sightseeing. Join the stylish Mumbaikars (Mumbai residents) who come for high tea and desserts, like masala tea crème brûlée at the contemporary Sea Lounge or at the open-air Aquarius café overlooking the hotel’s legendary swimming pool. Or book dinner at one of the many fine restaurants, including Masala Kraft for all-time Mumbai favorites created at various cooking stations.
The Taj Mahal Palace was built by J. N. Tata after, it is said, he was refused lodging at one of the city’s hotels because he was Indian. The Taj Group—a sliver of the massive Tata Group, in its fifth generation of stewardship—now owns more than 60 hotels in India and abroad. The Taj was the target of a devastating terrorist attack in November 2008, during which 31 guests and staff were killed and hundreds injured. Heavily damaged by fire, the hotel was repaired within the year. A simple plaque serves as a memorial to an event that succeeded in bringing the people of Mumbai closer together while securing the hotel a place of honor in their hearts.
Rock stars, maharajas, and heads of state have stayed at the landmark hotel that overlooks the Arabian Sea.
INFO: Tel 91/22-6665-3366; in the U.S., 866-969-1825; www.tajhotels.com. Cost: from $220 (off-peak), from $550 (peak); dinner at Masala Kraft $40. BEST TIMES: Oct–Mar for most pleasant weather; Feb for dance festival on Elephanta Island; Aug for Ganesh Chaturthi festival; Oct–Nov for Diwali (Festival of Lights) on Chowpatty Beach.
A Place of Extraordinary Peace Where Everyone Is Welcome
THE GOLDEN TEMPLE
Amritsar, Punjab, India
In the bustling city of Amritsar, India’s dazzling Harmandir Sahib, also called the Golden Temple, seems to float on an island in the middle of a serene lake whose name means “pool of nectar.” One of the country’s most beautiful buildings, the temple is the Sikh religion’s holiest shrine and one that welcomes everyone, irrespective of religion, race, or caste.
Construction of Harmandir Sahib began in 1574 on the site of the lake, which was believed to have healing powers, in order to house the book of holy scriptures. Since then, the three-story temple, connected by a man-made causeway, has seen many restorations and embellishments, including the addition of over 220 pounds of gold to cover the upper stories and an inverted, lotus-shaped dome in the 19th century. Signifying the importance of acceptance, the temple has open doors and balconies on all four sides, and the interiors are decorated with inlaid marble, carved woodwork embossed with gold and silver, and intricate mosaics. The atmosphere is both festive and serene. As with Muslims and Mecca, every Sikh hopes to visit the Golden Temple at least once in his life.
There is no organized worship, but during the day, the scriptures are chanted and hymns are sung from the Adi Granth (the Sikh Holy Book) beneath a jeweled canopy, while a small group of musicians plays an accompaniment. At night, thousands of worshippers line up for the Palki Sahib ceremony, when the holy book is returned on a palanquin to its resting spot.
No pilgrimage for Sikhs would be considered complete without a visit to the Langar, a giant communal dining hall run by volunteers, who feed more than 30,000 people daily for free—twice that during holidays. Stop by to experience the spirit of hospitality and equality that are central to Sikhism and that make a visit to Amritsar so special.
WHERE: 254 miles/410 km northwest of Delhi and 40 miles/64 km east of Lahore, Pakistan. GOLDEN TEMPLE: www.darbarsaheb.com. WHERE TO STAY: Ranjit’s Svaasa is a family-run boutique hotel in a 19th-century building. Tel 91/183-256-6618; www.svaasa.com. Cost: from $100. HOW: U.S.-based Asia Transpacific Journeys leads a 17-day trip through the Himalayas that includes Amritsar. Tel 800-642-2742 or 303-443-6789; www.asiatranspacific.com. Cost: $8,295. Originates in Delhi. When: Sep. BEST TIMES: Sunrise or late afternoon, when the golden domes are illuminated and reflected in the waters; Sep–Nov and Feb–Mar for pleasant weather; mid-Apr for the Sikh holy days, such as Vaisakhi.
Strictly for the Birds
KEOLADEO NATIONAL PARK
Bharatpur, Rajasthan, India
Between the historic cities of Agra and Jaipur (see p. 552 and below) lies the diminutive Keoladeo Ghana National Park, aka the Bharatpur Bird Sanctuary. It has the reputation of being India’s (and perhaps all of Asia’s) best avian sanctuary, especially during the winter months, when its marshland attracts staggering numbers of birds arriving from Afghanistan, Turkmenistan, China, Siberia, and Europe. More than 400 resident and migrant species, including egrets, storks, herons, and cormorants, build over 10,000 nests annually, with the highly endangered Siberian crane occasionally making an appearance. Previously the private duck-hunting grounds of the maharaja, the park includes a plaque giving testament to successful hunts from the recent past, including a day in 1938 when a British viceroy bagged 4,273 birds.
The 18-square-mile park is car-free, navigable only by bicycle, horse cart, or rickshaw. The latter is the best mode for the novice ornithologist, as the rickshaw pullers have been trained by park management and
are quick to spot birds. Remember to look down as well; pythons, porcupines, mongooses, jackals, civets, wild boars, nilgais (Asia’s largest antelope), and the endangered jungle cat reside here too.
The nearby Bagh Hotel is set on 12 acres of 200-year-old gardens and has resident naturalists who delight birders with their knowledgeable presentations and who lead guided tours of the park.
White-throated kingfishers find sanctuary in Keoladeo.
WHERE: 34 miles/55 km west of Agra. VISITOR INFO: Tel 91/11-279-48870; www.keoladeonationalpark.co.in. THE BAGH: Tel 91/564-422-5415; www.thebagh.com. Cost: from $145. BEST TIMES: Oct–Feb (after monsoons) for migratory birds and Aug–Nov for resident birds; early mornings and evenings at sunset for greatest bird activity.
Where Royal Concubines Watched the World Go By
PALACE OF WINDS
Jaipur, Rajasthan, India
Pink is the Rajput color of hospitality, and Jaipur, capital of the desert state of Rajasthan, is known as the “Pink City.” It is a worthy home for Hawa Mahal, the five-story, salmon-hued “palace of winds,” built in 1799 and adorned with delicate floral motifs and fronted with honeycomb windows. The upper two stories (of five in all) are really an elegant façade, just one room deep but pierced by 953 windows from which the Hindu ladies of the royal household in purdah (concealment from men) could enjoy the breeze while viewing state processions or the parade of everyday life in the Old City below. In the late-afternoon light, the sandstone palace takes on a special glow. The building is just around the corner from the rambling City Palace complex, an exotic blend of Rajasthani and Mughal architecture that still houses the former maharaja and his family on a high floor.
1,000 Places to See Before You Die Page 86