Dragonfruits and mangosteens are among the exotic offerings at Chatuchak, a Thai institution that sells everything under the sun.
WHERE: Chatuchak Park: Catch the Skytrain to Mo Chit or metro to Chatuchak Park. Pak Khlong Talat: by water taxi or ordinary taxi.
Royal Digs and Ancient Massage
THE GRAND PALACE AND WAT PHO
Bangkok, Thailand
Once the walled residence of the Thai monarch, the Grand Palace—a study in monumental excess—was created more than 2 centuries ago by the revered Chakri dynasty of the Kingdom of Siam. Today the sprawling palace complex is one of Thailand’s most popular attractions (the current king, Bhumibol, is regally ensconced at nearby Chitralada Palace, which is closed to the public).
The Grand Palace’s shimmering labyrinth of more than 100 buildings is a fantastically ornate maze, and the greatest single display of traditional Thai arts and architecture in the world. The gilded and inlaid compound includes the most famous of Bangkok’s 400-odd temples: Wat Phra Kaeo, popularly known as the Temple of the Emerald Buddha and symbolically linking Thailand’s spiritual heart with its former seat of temporal power. Here sits Thailand’s most venerated religious object, a delicate 26-inch seated Buddha carved from semiprecious jade. The cherished figure, perched on a 34-foot-high golden throne guarded by ancient bronze lions, was lost and then rediscovered in the 15th century. As protector of the country, the Buddha presides over the only area of the Grand Palace where incense-burning Thai worshippers outnumber awestruck tourists.
To see the Buddha in repose, head to nearby Wat Pho, a 10-minute stroll south of the Grand Palace through Bangkok’s busy streets. The 17th-century building is Thailand’s oldest and largest temple and is built around an impressive 150-foot-long, gold-leaf-covered reclining statue of the Buddha. It is also famous for its centuries-old university and as the center for the teaching and preservation of traditional Thai medicine and massage. The latter is traditionally viewed as a spiritual and healing art closely linked to Buddhist teachings, and was, for centuries, practiced exclusively at temples. If you decide to sign up for one, expect a thorough workout for all your body’s pressure points, as a slim but strong therapist rigorously stretches you to a state of unexpected Nirvana (unlike with other forms of massage, you’ll be worked on while fully clothed). Tropical breezes drifting through Wat Pho’s open-sided pavilion enhance the bliss.
Wat Pho, also known as the Temple of the Reclining Buddha, contains more than 1,000 depictions of the enlightened one.
VISITOR INFO: www.bangkokforvisitors.com. COST: $13 for a 1-hour massage at Wat Pho.
The Epitome of Gracious Hospitality
A TRIO OF BANGKOK HOTELS
Bangkok, Thailand
Bangkok is a sprawling and fascinating city, composed of neighborhoods that embody all the different facets of the Thai capital. And in a country known for its gracious hospitality and impeccable service, Bangkok’s hotels have won every award in the book. Three stand out: one more than a century old, one cutting-edge, and one Colonial-style, each encapsulating Bangkok at its finest.
The riverside Oriental Hotel is a legend, as venerable and visited as Bangkok’s Grand Palace (see previous page). It first opened in 1879, on the banks of the Chao Phraya River, and since then it has hosted everyone from Joseph Conrad to Elizabeth Taylor to Neil Armstrong. Contemporary visitors can celebrate the history of this Bangkok landmark in the Authors Suites, housed in the only part of the original building still standing. Elaborate suites named after Somerset Maugham, Noël Coward, and James Michener are tributes to the Oriental’s storied past. A riverboat shuttle whisks guests to the opposite bank, where Bangkok’s best classical dance performances take place nightly in the Oriental’s lavish Sala Rim Naam restaurant. This is also where you’ll find the hotel’s celebrated spa, a beautifully simple oasis concealed in a restored teakwood house. While other luxury hotels also enjoy box-seat locations on the banks of the Chao Phraya, the history-laden Oriental was the city’s first, and it’s unlikely the hotel’s raffish past and stylish present will be eclipsed anytime soon.
A few blocks east of the river, amid the bustle of Bangkok’s commercial district, sits the Sukhothai Hotel, perfect for guests seeking sleek, understated accommodations that combine hushed elegance with the timeless elements of Thai culture. A palm-lined drive and 6 acres of flower gardens and lily ponds recapture the tranquility of the 13th-century kingdom after which it was named. Despite its size (it holds 200 exquisite rooms, each with an oversize, teak-floored bathroom), the air of a Buddhist retreat prevails, with Sukhothai-style stupas reflected in illuminated pools of lotus blossoms. The hotel’s Spa Botanica features signature treatments, like the 3-hour Thailand Flower Ritual, combining a petal-strewn bath with a jasmine-and-coriander body scrub. On the alfresco terrace of the Celadon restaurant, traditionally spicy Thai cuisine mingles effortlessly with more cosmopolitan flavors in one of the city’s most romantic settings.
In the city’s older streets around the Grand Palace and Wat Pho (see p. 622), two sister heritage properties lovingly resurrected by their architect owners channel the Bangkok of yesteryear. The Bhuthorn is located in a corner shop house with three guest rooms, individually furnished with Thai antiques collected over the years. Overflow guests find a warm welcome at the nearby Asadang, featuring nine bed-and-breakfast rooms in a restored Colonial mansion.
ORIENTAL: Tel 66/2-659-9000; in the U.S., 800-526-6566; www.mandarinoriental.com. Cost: from $295 (off-peak), from $420 (peak). SUKHOTHAI: Tel 66/2-344-8888; www.sukhothai.com. Cost: from $255; dinner at Celadon $50. BHUTHORN: Tel 66/2-622-2270; www.thebhuthorn.com. Cost: from $135. ASADANG: Tel 66/85-180-7100; www.theasadang.com. Cost: from $135. BEST TIME: Oct–Mar for dry season.
Markets and Mansions in the “Rose of the North”
CHIANG MAI
Thailand
Chiang Mai is Thailand’s second largest city and the unofficial capital of the country’s north. Previously the sleepy hub of a rural hinterland and gateway to treks to the outlying hill tribes, this cooler-climate city dubbed the “Rose of the North” has been developing a distinct urban buzz. Excellent boutique hotels are popping up, and the city offers some of Southeast Asia’s best market shopping and delicious street food. Factor in the fascinating neighborhood of the Old City—combining ancient walls, moats, and beautiful wats (or Buddhist temples, the oldest dating to the late 13th century)—and travelers have plenty of reasons to take the 1-hour flight or 12-hour overnight train from Bangkok.
Chiang Mai has changed with the arrival of hotels that exude unmistakable character—such as the elegant Ping Nakara, a 100-year-old Colonial beauty with just 19 rooms. At the U Chiang Mai, Colonial style meets a 21st-century Zen aesthetic. Its lounge is housed in the 19th-century residence of a former Chiang Mai governor. It’s also just a 5-minute walk to the biggest game in town, the weekly Sunday-night market along Ratchadamneon Road (Walking Street).
The Night Market kicks into action every day around 6 P.M., but it is a mere prelude to the Saturday and Sunday Walking Street markets, when the wats lining the thoroughfare become giant alfresco food centers. The scene draws as many locals as visitors, tucking into laab gai (spicy chicken salad) or som tam (green papaya salad), accompanied by coconut juice straight from the fruit. If you thrill to the local flavors, consider spending an insightful day at the Thai Cookery School, which has been offering classes since 1993.
In addition to serving up delicious Thai cuisine, the Walking Street markets are a great place to shop, with crafts brought into town by the hill peoples. Cheaper Chinese copies have infiltrated the stalls, so keep an eye out for the real thing. Workshops in town craft silver, celadon pottery, screen-printed silks, and woven textiles; meanwhile, contemporary design studios are creating their own scene, blending traditional with modern, and Thai with foreign aesthetics.
Beyond central Chiang Mai’s enticing buzz, in the nearby Mae Rim Valley, is the incomparable Four Seasons Resort. Incor
porating architectural traditions from neighboring Myanmar, Laos, and China, the gorgeously landscaped 20-acre resort resembles a northern Thai village, right down to the water buffalos that help plow and prepare the hotel’s own rice paddies. Raft down a calm river on bamboo floats, or mountain bike through lush forests to hidden waterfalls. Afterward, give in to an aromatic Oriental massage with ginger- and lemongrass-infused oils at the resort’s renowned spa.
On weekends, locals sell handicrafts at Chiang Mai’s Walking Street markets.
WHERE: 400 miles/644 km north of Bangkok. PING NAKARA: Tel 66/53-252-999; www.pingnakara.com. Cost: from $165 (off-peak), from $240 (peak). U CHIANG MAI: Tel 66/53-327-000; www.uhotelsresorts.com. Cost: from $120. THAI COOKERY SCHOOL: Tel 66/53-206-388; www.thaicookeryschool.com. FOUR SEASONS CHIANG MAI: Tel 66/53-298181; in the U.S., 800-819-5053; www.fourseasons.com/chiangmai. Cost: from $600 (off-peak), from $800 (peak). BEST TIMES: Nov–Mar for cooler, drier weather; Sat and Sun for Walking St. Night Market; Feb for Chiang Mai Flower Festival; Apr for Songkran Water Festival.
Elegance and Elephants
GOLDEN TRIANGLE
Thailand
In the rugged north where Thailand, Laos, and Myanmar meet and the Ruak and Mekong rivers converge, travelers encounter a lush, mountainous region with an abundance of opportunities for adventure. Treks to hill tribe communities—who were compromised in the Chiang Mai area by decades of insensitive exploitation—can still be arranged here by local socially conscious agencies for visits by foot, jeep, or boat.
Until recently, this remote area of bamboo jungles and misty hills was notorious for its warranted reputation of illicit opium manufacturing: The area’s meandering rivers had been favored trade highways that supplied narcotics markets of the West since the 1920s. In the new century, the illegal action has shifted to Myanmar’s Shan states to the west, and as if to prove the area’s safety, a pair of exclusive resorts has joined the growing number that has set up camp in this northernmost point of the country.
With a secluded location on the Ruak River, the Four Seasons Tented Camp brings a romantic slice of African-safari style to Southeast Asia. Access is only by long-tail boat, and there are just 15 luxurious hillside “tents,” offering one of Thailand’s most exclusive and unusual overnight experiences. Each teak-floored canvas accommodation evokes the grand days of 19th-century expeditions, with period furnishings and river views from the spacious and private outdoor decks. Sit with a sundowner and take in the misty mountains of Laos and Myanmar, and the dense surrounding jungles. Luxury amenities include private yoga classes, aromatic spa treatments, and dining under the stars, but a key reason to come here is to interact with the resort’s team of elephants. Guests are encouraged to take part in daily pachyderm-friendly activities, including working with the mahout trainers, riding the elephants, even helping with their daily baths. You can also adopt an elephant through a special program, supporting those that have been orphaned or rescued from a life working in the cities.
Experience elephants in a different way at the Anantara Golden Triangle Resort & Spa. Elephant polo was first played in India in the early 20th century but was not introduced to Thailand until 2004 at the Anantara sister resort in the southern coastal town of Hua Hin (see below). Now the annual King’s Cup Tournament is shared between Anantara’s Hua Hin and Golden Triangle properties. Players come from India, Sri Lanka, the United States, and Iceland—and high-profile sponsorship ensures that the event is one of Thailand’s hottest social tickets. The leafy and luxurious Anantara resort also runs a year-round elephant camp on the grounds, allowing visitors, whether guests or not, to get up close and personal with these gentle giants.
Indian royalty originated elephant polo in the early 20th century, and the sport made its way to Thailand about a century later.
WHERE: 430 miles/690 km north of Bangkok. FOUR SEASONS TENTED CAMP: Tel 66/53-910-200; in the U.S., 800-8195053; www.fourseasons.com. Cost: from $800. ANANTARA GOLDEN TRIANGLE RESORT & SPA: Tel 66/53-784-084; www.anantara.com. Cost: from $215. HOW: U.S.-based Smithsonian Journeys leads a 14-day trip to northern Thailand and Laos. Tel 202-349-0677 or 800-528-8147; www.smithsonianjourneys.org. Cost: $2,599 with most meals, air extra. Originates in Bangkok. When: Feb, Apr, Sep, Nov. BEST TIMES: Nov–Mar for cooler, drier weather; late Mar–early Apr for King’s Cup elephant polo.
Thailand’s Royal Resort
HUA HIN
Thailand
As the Thai royal family’s favorite weekend escape from steamy Bangkok, Hua Hin was the country’s first glamorous getaway. The transformation of this former fishing village south of Bangkok began in 1922, when King Rama VII built his summer compound, Klai Kangwon (“Far from Worries”) here. The current monarch, King Bhumibol (Rama IX), still takes advantage of the Spanish-influenced palace regularly, and almost a century of royal patronage has seen Hua Hin develop into a favorite beach resort for Thai and international visitors alike. On first impression, the town’s humble fishing village roots are subdued under a cosmopolitan veneer, but a bit of exploration soon reveals reminders of a sleepier past. Small, open-walled seafood restaurants pepper the waterfront thoroughfare of Thanon Naresdamri and spill onto an improbably long teakwood jetty. Freshly cracked crab along Hua Hin’s expansive beach pairs perfectly with an ice-cold Singha beer.
An enjoyable way to reach Hua Hin from Bangkok is by train, with the 4-hour journey south concluding at the town’s lovely 1920s-era terminus. The station’s Royal Waiting Room is a red-painted teak confection combining Thai style with British whimsy. One of Hua Hin’s best hotels also recalls the age of rail travel. Formerly the Railway Hotel, the Sofitel Centara Grand Resort & Villas is arrayed along Hua Hin’s best expanse of beach. The gracious two-story hotel was originally built in 1923. Now fully restored and with the addition of 42 garden villas, it’s an inviting seaside retreat from the congested capital.
The city’s indisputable pièce de résistance, however, is the Chiva-Som International Health Resort, serenely set on a private lake just 2 miles south of town. The ancient Sanskrit name translates to “Haven of Life,” and the exclusive getaway has built its reputation by promising travelers the ultimate in rest and renewal. All-inclusive stays fuse Eastern and Western approaches to health, nutrition, and exercise, and its expert staff of over 200 knows what it’s doing. Just ask any of the celebrity guests from around the globe.
Hua Hin’s vintage train station is adorned with twinkling lights.
WHERE: 150 miles/240 km south of Bangkok. SOFITEL CENTARA GRAND RESORT: Tel 66/32-512-021; www.sofitel.com. Cost: from $160. CHIVA-SOM HEALTH RESORT: Tel 66/32-536-536; www.chivasom.com. Cost: from $500 per person, all-inclusive. BEST TIME: Nov–May for the cooler, drier season.
Floating Gems
KOH PHI PHI
Thailand
In an area of southern Thailand garlanded with beautiful islands, Koh Phi Phi (Phi Phi Island) is a standout. Against a backdrop of steep, jungled, limestone cliffs, bungalow resorts dot crescents of palm-shaded, bleached-white sand. The tsunami of December 2004 hit Koh Phi Phi with full force, but the island has rebounded to again become one of Thailand’s most popular destinations. Getting there is still possible only by ferry—there is no airport—so development is fairly moderate despite the island’s improbable beauty and growing popularity.
Once here, boats connect you to the outlying islet of Koh Phi Phi Leh, recognized from its leading role in The Beach (2000), starring Leonardo DiCaprio. The island’s remote beaches still represent an archetypal secret paradise today. Popular boat excursions to Koh Phi Phi Leh’s famous bays run year-round. Join the day-trippers from nearby Krabi or Phuket (see next page and p. 631) to visit isolated coves, crystal-clear waters, and undeveloped beaches. The actual beach “discovered” by Leo in the film is Maya Bay, surrounded by towering cliffs and heartbreakingly beautiful. There are no accommodations on Koh Phi Phi Leh, but visiting the compact island makes for a wonderful day trip.
Despite an influx of day
visitors, staying on the principal island of Koh Phi Phi Don still promises a compelling Thai island experience. The snorkeling is excellent right off the beach, and you can hop a boat trip to “James Bond Island” (see next page) in Phangnga Bay. Other options include superb diving around the island’s shores, Thai cookery classes, and tours that include immense, cathedral-like caverns where Sea Gypsies harvest edible birds’ nests (much loved by the Chinese). Stay at a resort with a private beach and you’ll enjoy delicious seclusion. The island’s most comfortable is the Phi Phi Village Beach Resort & Spa, with stylish hillside villas, plus 800 yards of its own stretch of shoreline, lined with palm trees and hammocks.
WHERE: 24 miles/39 km southwest of Krabi; 27 miles/43 km southwest of Phuket. PHI PHI VILLAGE BEACH RESORT: Tel 66/76363-700; www.ppisland.com. Cost: from $225. BEST TIME: Dec–Apr for cooler, drier weather.
Thailand’s Cosmopolitan Island Scene
KOH SAMUI
Thailand
The backpacker brigade first stumbled upon Koh Samui in the 1970s, and the island changed considerably once word got out. An airport was built in 1989, and Western tourists, drawn by talk of dazzling beaches, started to frequent a growing number of upscale hotels. Now Koh Samui continues to develop as one of Thailand’s most cosmopolitan island getaways. But it’s an exceedingly versatile slice of holiday heaven, with luxury villas, hip yoga and meditation retreats, and laid-back beach bars that still exude Samui’s original counterculture vibe.
1,000 Places to See Before You Die Page 99