Preserving that environment is a way of life here. Cousteau insists that the resort be eco-sensitive, and many recycling efforts are evident as are the absence of energy-intensive air conditioners—the one luxurious honeymoon villa is the exception. Ceiling fans suffice in the other, less spacious but extremely comfortable guest bungalows.
WHERE: 3.5 miles/6 km northeast of Nadi, Viti Levu. Tel 679/885-0188, in the U.S., 800-246-3454; www.fijiresort.com. COST: from $700, inclusive; diving extra. BEST TIMES: May–Sep for good weather; May–Dec for ideal diving conditions.
A String of Blue Beads
THE YASAWA ISLANDS
Fiji
First charted in 1840 by a U.S. exploring expedition, whose commander described them as “a string of blue beads lying along the horizon,” the Yasawas have only recently emerged from a century-and-a-half snooze. The new daily service by catamaran from Denarau, near Nadi on the main island of Viti Levu, is the reason; they were previously accessible only by expensive seaplane or a very long and arduous boat ride. As a result, the Yasawas have become one of the most popular destinations in Fiji, especially among young travelers, who frequent more than a dozen bare-bones accommodations here.
Along with a smattering of low-key development, you’ll find small Fijian villages nestled beneath palm trees along some of the South Pacific’s loveliest beaches. Fiji’s most spectacular, the beach at Nalova Bay on Nacula Island, offers a swath of white sand leading into a clear lagoon deep enough for swimming and snorkeling even at low tide—a rarity in Fiji. Beside it resides little Blue Lagoon Beach Resort, a modest but exceptional new hotel with eight guest bungalows. Half the cottages and the relaxed, sand-floor restaurant are adjacent to the brilliant white beach, a world-class setting that more than compensates for the resort’s lack of high-end amenities.
The Yasawas are where Fiji opened its first top-end resort, Turtle Island, which remains one of its finest. It was already up and running in 1979 when Hollywood arrived to film the remake of The Blue Lagoon, putting this 500-acre sliver of paradise on the map. It has 14 beaches—one for each of the 14 couples here when the place is fully booked—and a 4-acre organic garden that provides almost all the fruits, vegetables, herbs, and flowers used at the resort.
Low-key and friendly, the Yasawa Island Resort & Spa occupies its own island and boasts one of Fiji’s longest and whitest beaches, dotted by 18 thatched bures. The open-sided restaurant, with one of the best wine selections in Fiji, competes with a lovely beachfront spa as the nicest spot to unwind.
Those interested in seeing more of the 16-island chain without hopping on and off the catamaran shuttle can board one of the boats operated by Blue Lagoon Cruises, which ply this 56-mile stretch of islands on 3-, 4-, and 7-day tours. It began its operation in the 1950s (taking its name from the original 1949 version of the film) and is now one of the nicest small-ship operations in the South Pacific. None of its four vessels has more than 35 cabins. Sunset departures leave each day free for visits to a different island and local village, lunchtime barbecues, and sunning on secluded beaches, where the only tracks will be those left by you.
This string of islands is home to many fine beaches set against a backdrop of volcanoes and green-clad hills.
WHERE: 35 miles/56 km north of Nadi, Viti Levu. VISITOR INFO: www.fijime.com. BLUE LAGOON BEACH RESORT: Tel 679/666-6337; www.bluelagoonbeachresort.com.fj. Cost: from $105. TURTLE ISLAND: Tel in Australia 61/3-9823-8300; in the U.S., 800-255-4347; www.turtlefiji.com. Cost: from $2,080, all-inclusive. YASAWA ISLAND: Tel 679/672-2266; www.yasawa.com. Cost: $900, all-inclusive. BLUE LAGOON CRUISES: Tel 679/666-1622; www.bluelagooncruises.com. Cost: 3-day cruise from $830 per cabin, all-inclusive. BEST TIME: May–Sep for driest weather.
A Cruise to Wild Beauty
THE MARQUESAS ISLANDS
French Polynesia
For years the wild beauty of the little-visited Marquesas Islands—some of the most remote inhabited islands on earth—has drawn artists and writers, and that’s hardly a surprise: This is the untainted tropics, where forest-cloaked cliffs plunge into the rocky sea and eerie volcanic spires tower so dramatically that Robert Louis Stevenson once likened them to “the pinnacles of some ornate and monstrous church.” Of the six inhabited islands (of ten total), Fatu Hiva, the most isolated, is the most beautiful, due in large part to its dramatic Bay of Virgins, which is surrounded by steep cliffs on which grow lush groves of mangoes, oranges, and guavas. The wildlife is extraordinarily rich throughout, with many bird, plant, and marine species unique to the Marquesas, and you are never far from the scent of jasmine, plumeria, or ginger.
Paul Gauguin intended to live out his days on Fatu Hiva, but instead disembarked on Hiva Oa, the second largest of the Marquesas and perhaps the best known. He—and, more than 80 years later, Belgian singer Jacques Brel—chose never to leave. Both men’s frangipani-shaded graves can be found in Calvary Cemetery, located in the small town of Atuona, which has a museum dedicated to each. Herman Melville jumped ship off Hiva Oa and later based his novel Typee on his time in the Marquesas, while Jack London was moved to write about Taiohae Bay, which lies below a majestic cliff on the largest island of Nuku Hiva, saying, “One caught one’s breath and felt the pang that it almost hurt, so exquisite was the beauty of it.”
The best way to see the Marquesas is on the 200-passenger, 355-foot Aranui 3, a half-passenger, half-cargo ship that links the Marquesas with the outside world, making brief stops at Fakarava and Rangiroa, in the Tuamotu atolls, on its way to and fro. Entire villages—sometimes entire islands—turn out to greet its arrival, bartering copra (pressed and dried coconut) and wood carvings for basic supplies and the occasional pickup truck. While the crew handles the cargo, an expert archaeologist, anthropologist, or historian leads Aranui’s passengers on excursions to green valleys famed for their wild horses and abandoned carved tikis (huge stone icons of Polynesian gods). A cruise ship could replicate the Aranui’s itinerary, but not the experience.
You can also fly from Papeete to Nuku Hiva and Hiva Oa, where the hotels are few but offer plenty of relaxation amid jagged volcanic peaks and crashing surf. At the Keikahanui Nuku Hiva Pearl Lodge, the 20 guest bungalows perch on stilts, overlooking Taiohae Bay and the black sand beach below, while those at the Hanakee Hiva Oa Pearl Lodge have even more spectacular views of 3,903-foot Mount Te Metiu and the Pacific.
WHERE: 830 miles/1,300 km northeast of Tahiti. VISITOR INFO: www.tahiti-tourisme.com. ARANVI 3: Tel 689/426-240; in the U.S., 800-972-7268; www.aranui.com. Cost: 13-day cruises from $2,079, all-inclusive. When: depart Papeete every 3 weeks. KEIKAHANUI NUKU HIVA PEARL LODGE: Tel 689/920-710; www.pearlresorts.com. Cost: from $330. HANAKEE HIVA OA PEARL LODGE: Tel 689/927-587; www.pearlresorts.com. Cost: from $275. BEST TIME: May–Oct for pleasant weather.
The World’s Most Beautiful Island
BORA-BORA
Society Islands, French Polynesia
Grab a seat on the left side of the plane for your first glimpse of Bora-Bora, the dramatic, lagoon-surrounded rock that has mesmerized visitors since Captain James Cook saw it more than 200 years ago. Just 4 miles long and 2.5 miles wide, Bora-Bora consists of a palm-covered barrier reef of semi-connected motus (islets) encircling a deep lagoon that glows in a range of blues and greens. The island rises to the renowned, tombstone-shaped 2,379-foot Mount Otemanu, Bora-Bora’s most famous landmark. In the 1950s James Michener called this “the most beautiful island in the world” and “the South Pacific at its unforgettable best.” Look beyond today’s tourists and you will no doubt agree.
Some of the Pacific’s best sites for inshore snorkeling beckon with underwater traffic jams of trumpet fish, angelfish, and parrot fish, as well as the rarer Pinocchio and Napoleon fish. Shark feeding, which is now widespread but began here, promises even more drama: Willing visitors submerge themselves amid dozens of 5-foot blackfin lagoon sharks, which are hand-fed by local divers. Once back on dry land, take a four-wheel-drive up into the mountains and jounce and rat
tle across the lush terrain. It’s worth it for the cliffside views over the lagoon.
The island’s finest resorts are now out on the skinny islets that enclose the lagoon, affording more privacy for their often famous guests. Rows of thatch-roofed bungalows stand over the lagoon’s impossibly clear water.
Of the major hotels that occupy the palm-fringed motus, the newest is the family-friendly Four Seasons Resort Bora Bora; its 120 rooms and over-the-water bungalows and seven beachside villas are built on three interlinked islets and boast both the top beach and the best view of Mount Otemanu. The huge, cathedral-like Kahaia spa nestles at the ocean’s edge. On the main island not far from the exquisite, sugar-white Matira Beach—one of the most idyllic spots in the Pacific—Le Maitai Polynesia Bora Bora has 74 spacious hotel rooms and bungalows, some of them over water, all with views of the lagoon, the offshore motus, and—on the horizon—the islands of Tahaa and Raiatea.
A lagoon encircles the island, with the Mounts Otemanu and Paihia ascending into the sky.
WHERE: 145 miles/233 km northwest of Tahiti. VISITOR INFO: www.tahiti-tourisme.com. FOUR SEASONS RESORT BORA BORA: Tel 689/603-130; in the U.S., 800-819-5053; www.fourseasons.com/borabora. Cost: from $993. LE MAITAI POLYNESIA BORA BORA: Tel 689/603-000; www.hotelmaitai.com. Cost: from $195. BEST TIMES: May–Oct for nicest weather; weekend closest to Jul 14 (Bastille Day) for Fêtes de Juillet.
Steeped in Polynesian Tradition
HUAHINE
Society Islands, French Polynesia
Steeped in tradition and a standout for its varied scenery, splendid beaches, and proliferation of marae (sacred spaces), Huahine is one of the few Polynesian islands Captain James Cook might recognize if he were to return today. Tourism has been slow to arrive to this beautiful place, which is still largely agricultural and is often compared to what Bora-Bora and Moorea (see previous page and next page) were before the luxury hotels arrived. There’s not much going on in its picturesque main town, and tiny, charming villages—but that’s the point.
Among the least changed parts of Huahine is Fare, the island’s seaport and its only town of note. Facing west, with neighboring Raiatea, Tahaa, and Bora-Bora on the horizon, Fare is a great place to sit at sunset with a cold Hinano beer.
Make sure to visit the ancient marae, which comprise one of the most important archaeological sites in all of Polynesia. Most of these stone structures stand along the shore of Lake Fauna Nui, which is actually an inlet separating the main island from a long, flat peninsula. To get the most from your visit, take an Island Eco Tours excursion led by a local anthropologist.
Settle into Te Tiare Beach Resort, Huahine’s only luxury hotel, located on a beach on the main island. The main structure stands on pilings over the lagoon, as do about half its 40 bungalows, and guests in the 11 “deep overwater” units can step from their wraparound deck into the clear lagoon. If Huahine isn’t removed enough from the world, have the amiable French and British owners of the Au Motu Mahare B&B come to fetch you and whisk you off to a small private motu, where no more than five guests occupy their little slice of paradise at any one time.
WHERE: 175 miles/282 km northwest of Papeete, Tahiti. ISLAND ECO TOURS: Tel 689/687-967; [email protected]. TE TIARE BEACH RESORT: Tel 689/606-050; www.tetiarebeach.com. Cost: from $427. AU MOTU MAHARE: Tel 689/777-697; www.aumotumahare.blogspot.com. Cost: $95. BEST TIMES: May–Oct for pleasant weather; mid-Oct, when Huahine is the starting point for the annual Hawaiki Nui Va’a Outrigger Race, which ends in Bora-Bora.
The Last Great Secret of French Polynesia
MAUPITI
Society Islands, French Polynesia
If you dream of visiting Bora-Bora as it was 50 years ago, nearby Maupiti fits the fantasy bill. Devoid of luxury resorts (local residents have flatly rejected just about every hotel proposition), this island gem, unknown to most tourists, remains blessedly quiet and laid-back.
Like its famous neighbor Bora-Bora (see p. 687), Maupiti consists of a high central island encircled by a lagoon and five, palm-studded, beach-fringed islets. The only pass into the shallow lagoon is so narrow and treacherous that large ships dare not enter, leaving the main means of sea transport to the Maupiti Express, a passenger ferry that travels to and from Bora-Bora three times a week, allowing for an easy day trip.
Bicycles are the best way to get around the main island, where the only road follows the mostly flat shoreline; it’s just 5.5 miles around from start to finish. It passes near Plage Tereia, one of the finest beaches in all of French Polynesia, where you can wade across the shallow lagoon to one of the largest motus. It also skirts the base of Mount Hotu Parata, a sheer basaltic cliff towering over Vaiea, one of Maupiti’s three villages. French-speaking guides will lead you to the 1,220-foot summit for a spectacular vista that needs little translation.
Accommodations can be found at simple pensions, which are mostly found on the reef islets. Motu Tiapaa has four, including Le Kuriri, the best of the bunch. Owned and operated by French expats, its five charming fares (bungalows), built mostly of native materials, are on the ocean side of the islet, where they catch the cooling southeast trade winds.
WHERE: 25 miles/40 km west of Bora-Bora. MAUPITI EXPRESS: Tel 689/676-669; www.maupitiexpress.com. LE KURIRI: Tel 689/745-454; www.maupiti-kuriri.com. Cost: $310, inclusive. BEST TIME: May–Oct for good weather.
The Prodigal Beauty of Nature
MOOREA
Society Islands, French Polynesia
There is no South Pacific view as spellbinding as the one from Moorea’s Le Belvédère, a lookout high on the wall of the extinct volcanic crater forming this extraordinarily beautiful island, whose jagged peaks and soaring spires have served as the backdrop for numerous Hollywood films. The 36-mile drive that rings the island can be traveled by bicycle, scooter, car, or on foot, and affords incredible views of Cook’s and Opunohu bays, cut deep into the island’s lush green interior.
Equally impressive is Moorea’s lagoon. Several hundred acrobatic spinner dolphins live here year-round, and humpback whales can be spotted offshore from July through October. The best way to visit them in the wild is with Dr. Michael Poole, an American marine biologist who leads daily tours. At the Moorea Dolphin Center, you are guaranteed to come face-to-face with the creatures, which are kept in fenced-off areas of the lagoon.
Sofitel Moorea Ia Ora Beach Resort is a top hotel choice, with bungalows on Moorea’s most gorgeous coconut grove–shaded beach and an additional 40 units over the water. Beyond is the cobalt blue Sea of Moon, and beyond that a postcard view of the green, cloud-topped mountains of Tahiti. A more modest but charming option, Hotel Les Tipaniers, sits in a coconut grove beside a fine beach on the other side of Moorea. It has comfortable if not overly spacious bungalows, a good Italian restaurant, and Moorea’s best beachside bar. After sunset, head over to the open-air Tiki Theatre Village for an island-style dinner and the most authentic Tahitian dance show in French Polynesia.
WHERE: 12 miles/19 km northwest of Tahiti. DR. MICHAEL POOLE: Tel 689/562-322; www.drmichaelpoole.com. Cost: half-day tour $88. MOOREA DOLPHIN CENTER: Tel 689/551-948; www.mooreadolphincenter.com. Cost: 30-minute encounter $180. SOFITEL MOOREA IA ORA BEACH RESORT: Tel 689/550-355; www.sofitel.com. Cost: from $500. HOTEL LES TIPANIERS: Tel 689/561-267; www.lestipaniers.com. Cost: from $160; dinner $45. TIKI THEATRE VILLAGE: Tel 689/550-250; www.tikivillage.pf. Cost: $47 show only, $93 with dinner. BEST TIMES: May–Oct for good weather; Jul–Oct for whale-watching.
The Mother of All Island Festivals
HEIVA I TAHITI
Papeete, Tahiti, Society Islands, French Polynesia
Tahiti has been the most famous South Pacific island since English captain Samuel Wallis became the first European to lay eyes on it in 1767. And these days everyone coming to French Polynesia must set foot on Tahiti, for its Faa‘a airport is the country’s only international gateway. But with few white sand beaches to keep them here, most visitors quickly move on to the outer islands. Those who do
tarry spend only a day or so exploring Papeete—the traffic-clogged capital city—and making a quick tour around the island.
There is one time of year when everyone should consider sticking around: during Heiva (festival) i Tahiti, the 7-week mother of all island festivals that takes place in June and July and crescendos in its final 15 days. Originally a brief observance of Bastille Day, in honor of all things French, the locals have turned it into an extravagant celebration of all things Polynesian. From the country’s 115 islands they converge upon Tahiti for singing, traditional sports, and especially for dancing, all rooted in their common heritage and performed with passion.
Although not heavily attended by visiting foreigners, these colorful displays honor the local culture that is so sorely missing from many of the glitzy resorts across Polynesia. Missionaries suppressed the region’s suggestive tamure dancing in the early 19th century, but it has been enthusiastically revived, as can be witnessed at this festival. Check with Tourisme Tahiti, the tourist information office, to get times for the dance-offs, especially the emotionally charged finals. (Note that the winners often tour some of the principal hotels in August, in case you miss the boat.) In addition to the dancing, there are fire walking and stone lifting contests, along with outrigger canoe races and golf tournaments.
When you’re ready to visit the other islands, board the 332-passenger Paul Gauguin cruise ship, the only one to sail these waters year-round. Named for the French artist who found paradise in these islands, the vessel offers cruises ranging from 8 days spent exploring the Society Islands to the 15-day trip that takes you as far north as the remote Marquesas Islands (see p. 686).
1,000 Places to See Before You Die Page 108