Moraine Lake is surrounded by the Valley of the Ten Peaks.
WHERE: Banff is 80 miles/129 km west of Calgary. BANFF NATIONAL PARK: Tel 403-762-1550; www.pc.gc.ca/banff. FAIRMONT CHTEAU LAKE LOUISE: Tel 800-441-1414 or 403-522-3511; www.fairmont.com/lakelouise. Cost: from $330 (off-peak), from $450 (peak). POST HOTEL & DINING ROOM: Tel 800-661-1586 or 403-522-3989; www.posthotel.com. Cost: $250; dinner $75. FAIRMONT BANFF SPRINGS: Tel 800-441-1414 or 403-762-5755; www.fairmont.com/banffsprings. Cost: from $305 (off-peak), from $455 (peak). JASPER NATIONAL PARK: Tel 780-852-6176; www.pc.gc.ca/jasper. FAIRMONT JASPER PARK LODGE: Tel 800-441-1414 or 780-852-3301; www.fairmont.com/jasper. Cost: from $179 (off-peak), from $539 (peak). YOHO NATIONAL PARK: Tel 250-343-6783; www.pc.gc.ca/yoho. EMERALD LAKE LODGE: Tel 800-663-6336 or 403-410-7417; www.emeraldlakelodge.com. Cost: from $215 (off-peak), from $300 (peak). BEST TIMES: Jul–Aug for hiking and Banff Summer Arts Festival; Sep–Oct for foliage; Dec–Apr for skiing.
Rail Adventure Through Mountain Majesty
THE CANADIAN ROCKIES BY TRAIN
Alberta and British Columbia, Canada
When railroads first crossed Canada in 1885 (“an act of insane recklessness,” read the headlines), they did more than bring in settlers: They opened up western Canada to tourism. “If we can’t export the scenery,” declared William Van Horne, president of the Canadian Pacific Railroad, “we’ll import the tourists.” Lavish hotels were constructed in the wilderness with breathtaking views of ancient glaciers, snowcapped peaks, roaring waterfalls, and tranquil mountain lakes.
Traveling by train through the Rockies is still one of the best—and most relaxing—ways to explore this massive and inspiring country. VIA Rail Canada, Canada’s national passenger rail network, offers a year-round 4-night, 2,775-mile trip between Toronto and Vancouver. It passes through Jasper National Park (see previous page), over the Continental Divide, and past the Canadian Rockies’ highest peak, 12,972-foot Mount Robson. In winter, VIA Rail’s Snow Train packages offer passengers transportation in vintage stainless-steel railcars to Jasper from all points along the same route.
A seasonal alternative is the Rocky Mountaineer, the largest privately owned passenger rail service in North America and deservedly popular for its 2-day all-daylight train trips to and from Vancouver and Jasper, Banff, or Calgary. For those seeking a shorter yet just as spectacular journey, the Rocky Mountaineer also offers daily service between Vancouver and Whistler (see p. 922) along the Sea-to-Sky route and seasonal service between Whistler and Jasper via Quesnel. All travel is during daylight hours only, so you won’t miss a single scenic wonder, and in lieu of a jostling railcar, you’ll sleep in a comfortable hotel.
VIA RAIL CANADA: Tel 888-842-7245 or 514-871-6000; www.viarail.ca. Cost: 4-night Toronto–Vancouver $1,040 (off-peak), from $1,825 (peak) per person, double occupancy cabin. ROCKY MOUNTAINEER: Tel 800-665-7245 or 604-606-7245; www.rockymountaineer.com. Cost: 2-day tour from $925, inclusive. When: mid-Apr–mid-Oct. BEST TIMES: Apr–Jun for wildlife; Sep–Oct for pleasant weather, foliage, and smaller crowds.
A Rustic Getaway with Idyllic Country Inns
THE GULF ISLANDS
British Columbia, Canada
The rock-faced Gulf Islands lie sprinkled between the mainland city of Vancouver and Vancouver Island (see pp. 916–922), in the Strait of Georgia. These deep-forested islands are a haven for celebrities, eco-farmers, artists, and travelers seeking gorgeous nature, classy country inns, and topflight culinary outposts.
Five of the islands are easily reached on BC Ferries, from Tsawwassen on the mainland or Swartz Bay on Vancouver Island—the narrow passage between these islands is considered one of the most beautiful ferry rides on earth. Each of the almost 100 islands exudes its own unique character. Take Galiano, a long string bean of an island whose cliff-lined southern reaches drop straight into the churning waters of Active Pass. Or bucolic Mayne Island, once an agricultural center known for its apples, tomatoes, and sheep farms and today popular for kayaking.
Salt Spring Island is the largest in the archipelago, with 82 miles of coastline and a population of 10,000. The main town, Ganges, hosts a thriving artist colony, well represented at the boisterous Salt Spring Saturday Market. Perched above Ganges and standing in delightful contrast to the island’s bohemian vibe is Hastings House, an exemplary luxury retreat and spa enveloped by flowering English gardens and towering Douglas firs. The rural estate’s centerpiece is the imposing Manor House, built to resemble a centuries-old Sussex country manse; it’s now home to the renowned Manor Dining Room.
The Pender Islands are another Gulf highlight, two rural islands joined by a short bridge and reached by ferry or water taxi from Victoria (see p. 921). Just a mile north of the watery U.S.Canada border, Poets Cove Resort and Spa is the primary port of call for pleasure boats passing between the two countries. Tucked into a secluded cove and overlooking a busy marina in Pender Island’s Bedwell Harbour, the large wood-beamed resort features elegant guest rooms, cottages, and villas scattered along the forested headland. Relax with an alfresco dinner of fresh oysters and a glass of tart pinot gris from the vineyards of nearby Saturna Island.
Mount Maxwell rises over Salt Spring Island.
VISITOR INFO: Tel 250-754-3500; www.vancouverisland.travel. BC FERRIES: Tel 888-223-3779 or 250-386-3431; www.bcferries.com. HASTINGS HOUSE: Tel 800-661-9255 or 250-537-2362; www.hastingshouse.com. Cost: from $300 (off-peak), from $505 (peak); 3-course dinner $70. POETS COVE RESORT AND SPA: Tel 888-512-7638 or 250-629-2100; www.poetscove.com. Cost: from $185 (off-peak), from $300 (peak). BEST TIME: Apr–Oct for pleasant weather.
High-Altitude Nirvana in Remote Backcountry
HELI-SKIING AND HELI-HIKING
British Columbia, Canada
Just west of the Canadian Rockies lie waves of mountains: The Cariboo, Bugaboo, Monashee, Selkirk, Galina, and Purcell ranges are unknown to many but famous to fans of high-mountain hiking and powder skiing. These remote peaks are beyond the reach of roads and ski lifts, but getting to the mountaintop is possible—and exhilarating—with CMH Heli-Skiing and Summer Adventures. CMH ferries skiers and outdoor enthusiasts aboard its fleet of helicopters to any of its 12 modern and very comfortable backcountry lodges in the heights of southeastern British Columbia. Each accommodates only 40-some guests at a time, assuring exclusive access to a wilderness area half the size of Switzerland—all without a chairlift in sight.
High-country skiing requires intermediate to advanced skills, but the rewards are unmatched. Over the course of one mind-boggling powder-filled week helicopters set skiers down for 8 to 15 different runs per day, all on snow uncrossed by another human’s tracks. Back at the lodge, skiers can expect mountain-man breakfasts and epicurean dinners, with soothing massages for slope-weary limbs.
As soon as the snows melt, heli-tourists can pursue summer hiking and trekking in these same unbelievable mountains. The high country is transformed into a primeval world of alpine wildflowers and monumental views of dozens of snowcapped mile-high peaks. Two of the lodges remain open, enticing adventurers to remote and rarely visited backcountry for hiking, mountaineering, and climbing. Some heli-hiking ambles are gentle enough to be suitable for multigeneration family groups, but others require some technical climbing skill and mountaineering training, which guides can provide.
CMH: Tel 800-661-0252 or 403-762-7100; www.canadianmountainholidays.com. Cost: 7-day ski trips from $6,590, all-inclusive. Originates in Calgary. 3-day hiking trip from $2,530, all-inclusive. Originates in Banff. WHEN: ski trips Dec–May; hiking trips early Jul–late Sep. BEST TIMES: Jan–Feb for ideal ski conditions; early Jul–mid-Aug for wildflowers; early Sep for fall foliage.
Wilderness Sophistication at the Edge of the Map
NIMMO BAY RESORT
British Columbia, Canada
The helicopter whisks you away, soaring above the islands of Queen Charlotte Strait and nosing toward the craggy peaks of the Coast Mountains on Canada’s Pacific edge. Your destination is
Nimmo Bay Resort, an 18-guest wilderness retreat carved into the Great Bear Rain Forest. No roads lead to Nimmo Bay; at this pocket-size enclave of luxury and ecological stewardship, guests experience the serenity of a verdant waterfront paradise with opportunities for adventures in unspoiled wilderness, from sea level to 7,000 feet.
Nimmo Bay Resort is a pioneer in “heli-ventures”—using helicopters for adventure tourism. Ascend over ancient rain forests to the toe of Silverthrone ice field for a gourmet picnic hike; or head to pristine rivers and streams in remote backcountry for catch-and-release fishing. Guests can also enjoy the amenities and activities at the resort, such as massage or yoga rain forest hikes, or taking a guided sea kayaking trip for a seal’s-eye view of coastal inlets.
The resort’s nine elegantly furnished, cedar-paneled chalets are built on stilts above a fjordlike bay. The dining room competes with Vancouver’s best: locally grown organic produce, fish, and shellfish pulled that morning from neighboring bays, all paired with fine wines from around the world.
WHERE: 200 miles/322 km north of Vancouver. Tel 800-837-4354 or 250-956-4000; www.nimmobay.com. COST: 3-night heli-venture package from $6,990 per person, all-inclusive; 3-night resort-based trip (without heli-ventures) from $3,850 per person, all-inclusive. WHEN: May–Oct. BEST TIMES: May–Sep for outdoor activities.
The Napa Valley of Canada
THE OKANAGAN VALLEY
British Columbia, Canada
The arid yet fertile Okanagan Valley (with 125 miles of interconnected lakes—think Napa Valley with Lake Tahoe in the middle) is Canada’s second largest wine-producing area (its foremost is Niagara-on-the-Lake; see p. 929). Its 100 wineries comprise almost 10,000 acres, producing wines that rival nearby Washington State’s in power, richness, and finesse. Okanagan’s wine-growing area begins immediately north of the U.S.-Canada border at Osoyoos and extends to Vernon, an expanse of more than 100 miles. Kelowna—a bustling city of 110,000—is an excellent base for tasting expeditions, with more than 18 wineries within a half hour’s drive.
Wineries not to miss include CedarCreek Estate, where you can drink in the view—and a magnificent pinot noir—at the Vineyard Terrace Restaurant while savoring a Mediterranean-style lunch. At Mission Hill Family Estate Winery, established in 1981 and one of the valley’s first serious vineyards, sample their award-winning chardonnay, merlot, icewine, and the estate’s signature Bordeaux-inspired Oculus. Mission Hill’s restaurant, Terrace, offers courtyard dining, with regional cuisine made to pair perfectly with wines. Try the pinot noir and chenin blanc in the tasting room at Quail’s Gate Estate or at the winery’s Old Vines Patio Restaurant, with alfresco dining and views over vineyards and Okanagan Lake. You just might spot Ogopogo, the lake’s own Loch Ness monster.
WHERE: Kelowna is 245 miles/395 km east of Vancouver. VISITOR INFO: www.tourismkelowna.com. OKANAGAN WINE COUNTRY TOURS: Tel 866-689-9463 or 250-868-9463; www.okwinetours.com. Cost: 3-hour tour from $67. CEDARCREEK ESTATE: Tel 250-764-8866; www.cedarcreek.bc.ca. When: tasting room Jun–Sep. Cost: lunch $25. MISSION HILL WINERY: Tel 250-768-7611; www.missionhillwinery.com. Cost: dinner $40. QUAILS’ GATE: Tel 800-420-9463 or 250-769-4451; www.quailsgate.com. Cost: dinner $40. WHERE TO STAY: Foodies love the aptly named A View of the Lake B&B in Kelowna. Tel 250-769-7854; www.aviewofthelake.com. Cost: from $130. BEST TIMES: May–Oct for good weather; early Oct for Fall Okanagan Wine Festival.
First Nations Art and Modern Architecture
MUSEUM OF ANTHROPOLOGY
Vancouver, British Columbia, Canada
Rising from a cliffside meadow above the Strait of Georgia, the Museum of Anthropology at the University of British Columbia houses phantasmagorical carvings by British Columbia’s indigenous artists: towering totem poles; squat tree-trunk sculptures of ravens, sea wolves, and bears; and intricately painted masks of cedar and feathers. One of North America’s leading collections of Northwest Coast First Nations art, it highlights haunting figures and artifacts that are both historical—many of the carvings served as house poles at remote coastal villages—and contemporary, as wood carving remains a vital art form among the Native populations in British Columbia.
The soaring, light-filled space, designed by Canadian architect Arthur Erickson, is as dramatic as the art it holds. From the 50-foot windows of the Great Hall, carved creatures and totem poles stare out across the forests and waters, while in the rotunda, the massive yellow cedar sculpture The Raven and the First Men by the late Haida artist Bill Reid is a potent expression of spiritual wonder.
Hand-carved canoes and totem poles are on display in the museum’s Great Hall.
INFO: Tel 604-822-5087; www.moa.ubc.ca.
Eastern Roots in Canada’s West
SUN YAT-SEN CLASSICAL CHINESE GARDEN
Vancouver, British Columbia, Canada
Canada’s multiculturalism, a fascinating mosaic of peoples and customs, finds its zenith in Vancouver, with one of the highest concentrations of ethnic Chinese residents outside Asia. Just east of downtown is Vancouver’s historic Chinatown, where nearly all of the signs are in Chinese and storefront windows are filled with hanging ducks, bales of dried fish, and unlikely looking medicinal potions.
An island of calm in this otherwise frenetic community is the Sun Yat-Sen Classical Chinese Garden, the first full-scale classical Chinese garden ever built outside China. Named after the founder of China’s first republic, the 2.5-acre Sun Yat-Sen is an exquisite re-creation of a typical 15th-century Ming garden. Its complex network of corridors and courtyards seems like an intricately chambered jewel box, a pocket-size otherworld.
Completed in 1986, the garden is designed in the style of Suzhou (see p. 494), Vancouver’s sister city in Eastern China’s Jiangsu Province, long famed for its exquisite gardens. A team of 52 Suzhou artisans and horticulturists spent more than a year building the garden, and almost all its materials were brought from China, including the pagoda roof tiles, the naturally sculpted rocks, and the worn pebbles that create the mosaics covering the winding foot paths. Don’t miss the complimentary tours that provide perspectives on Chinese culture, architecture, horticulture, and life during the Ming Dynasty, as well as on the art of feng shui.
INFO: Tel 604-662-3207; www.vancouverchinesegarden.com. BEST TIMES: Jan or Feb for Chinese New Year; Mar–May for blooms; Sep–Oct for foliage.
The Culinary Capital of Western Canada
VANCOUVER’S TOP RESTAURANTS AND GRANVILLE ISLAND PUBLIC MARKET
Vancouver, British Columbia, Canada
Vancouver is wedged between the chilly waters of the Pacific, the farmlands of the Fraser River valley, and misty mountains whose meadows abound with wild mushrooms and berries. A natural nexus for an exuberant food culture, Vancouver enjoys one of North America’s most exciting and cosmopolitan dining scenes.
The city’s predilection for all things eastern finds its showcase at Tojo’s, a popular Japanese restaurant named for its much-admired chef-owner, Hidekazu Tojo. The most coveted seats are at the convivial omak-ase (“in the chef’s hands”) counter, where the chef prepares the finest sushi and sashimi with the precision of a surgeon and a dash of Vegas swagger, along with cooked items that are simultaneously traditional and highly inventive. Boasting a decades-long career, Tojo holds bragging rights for helping to introduce sushi to North America (his original Tojo Roll from 1971 is now ubiquitously found under the name California Roll).
West Restaurant focuses on a contemporary reinterpretation of classic cuisine. In a sleek, jewel-box-like dining room along fashionable South Granville Street, executive chef Warren Geraghty performs a kind of kitchen alchemy, transforming pristine local ingredients into dishes packed with flavor and artful high style. For the complete experience, book a “chef’s table” in the kitchen, order a multi-course tasting menu, and marvel as the masterfully trained kitchen professionals perform their own version of dinner theater.
Raincity Grill, overlooking English Bay from Vancouver’s West End, was one of the first purv
eyors of Pacific Northwest cuisine, a style of cooking that brings classic European techniques to the freshest of Northwest fish, meats, and produce. While this style is no longer news, Raincity Grill’s dedication to locavore interpretations has kept this restaurant at the cutting edge of Vancouver dining.
To see Vancouver’s rich bounty at its source, go to bustling Granville Island Public Market, the epicenter of the city’s burgeoning food scene. Tucked beneath the Granville Street Bridge, it is a veritable cornucopia where stalls brim with local fruit, vegetables, flowers, just-caught fish, artisanal sausages and cheeses, still-warm baked goods, and wines from the province’s vineyards—all in all, the cream of British Columbia’s crop.
TOJO’S: Tel 604-872-8050; www.tojos.com. Cost: dinner $80. WEST RESTAURANT: Tel 604-738-8938; www.westrestaurant.com. Cost: dinner $65. RAINCITY GRILL: Tel 604-685-7337; www.raincitygrill.com. Cost: dinner $63. GRANVILLE ISLAND PUBLIC MARKET: Tel 604-666-5784; www.granvilleisland.com.
Wilderness and Luxury on the North Pacific Coast
PACIFIC RIM NATIONAL PARK
Vancouver Island, British Columbia, Canada
The coastal rain forests, cliff-lined islands, and broad, sandy beaches of Vancouver Island’s remote western flank are preserved as the three-unit Pacific Rim National Park Reserve, a maritime wilderness that’s hallowed ground for ecotourists, long-distance hikers, and sea kayakers. In the first unit you’ll find the West Coast Trail, a 47-mile track hailed as one of the most spectacular and challenging hikes on the continent.
At the mouth of Barkley Sound is the park’s second unit, centered on the Broken Group Islands, a rocky archipelago rich with wildlife and popular with sea kayakers. The park’s third unit is its most accessible: the 9-mile curve of Long Beach, some 500 yards wide at low tide and popular in summer, when the weather is sunny and breezy. Winter brings the curious Northwest pastime of winter storm-watching, best done from the Wickaninnish Inn. Located just north of the park, the rustically elegant and sophisticated “Wick” is built of local cedar, stone, and glass, that rare modern structure that blends harmoniously with the glories of its natural surroundings. Don’t miss the Northwest specialties—or the 240-degree views—at the inn’s Pointe Restaurant, or the relaxing body treatments at its handsome, award-winning Ancient Cedars Spa.
1,000 Places to See Before You Die Page 144