The hotel GoldenEye breathes intrigue; reggae mogul and hotelier Chris Blackwell now owns the 15-acre property that centers around the three-bedroom home of James Bond author Ian Fleming (himself a British intelligence agent posted to Jamaica during World War II); all 14 of his thrillers were written here after the war. (No wonder the super-suave spy spends so much time in the Caribbean!) Guests can choose from the lush garden villas, sexy lagoon suites, or cottages on James Bond Beach—each a perfect place to tryst with the spy who loves you.
In Fleming’s day GoldenEye was such a celebrity scene that playwright Noël Coward made his home just up the hill at Firefly House, a magical setting worth visiting for the views alone and where groups are sometimes allowed to take a peek inside. Pay homage to another icon by making the day trip to Nine Mile, the village where reggae genius Bob Marley was born. His home (and final resting place, where he is buried with his guitar) is now a shrine to his life, music, and message of “One World, One Love.”
Back in Ochi, you may shun the touristy Dunns River Falls, but it’s a wonderful place to join hands with a chain of strangers (and lots of them, when the cruise ships are in) and climb 600 feet of steplike rocks through cold, clear mountain water. After that it’s time to refuel, so follow the aroma to Faith’s Pen, where 30 ramshackle huts sell traditional Jamaican fare, including jerk chicken and pork, fried fish, ackee and saltfish (Jamaica’s national dish), and fresh corn on the cob.
WHERE: 62 miles/100 km east of Montego Bay. JAMAICA INN: Tel 800-837-4608 or 876-974-2514; www.jamaicainn.com. Cost: from $290 (off-peak), from $500 (peak). GOLDENEYE: Tel 876-975-3354; www.goldeneye.com. Cost: from $670 (off-peak), from $840 (peak). BOB MARLEY CENTRE & MAUSOLEUM: Tel 876-978-2929. BEST TIMES: Nov–Apr for fine weather; Jan for Accompong Maroon Festival; Jun for Ocho Rios International Jazz Festival.
An Errol Flynn Favorite and the Birthplace of Jerk
PORT ANTONIO
Jamaica, Greater Antilles
Called “the most exquisite port on earth” by American poet Ella Wheeler Wilcox and “Porty” by locals, this quiet, historic former banana port is still the best place to get an authentic sense of Old Jamaica.
With its twin harbors, gorgeous white sand beaches, and verdant hillsides, Port Antonio charmed Errol Flynn and his cronies back in the 1940s. Its most lasting contribution to modern culture, however, is as the birthplace of jerk. “Maroons” (escaped slaves living in the Blue Mountains) are believed to be the first to have prepared jerk, by smoking seasoned wild boar, back in the 17th century.
Rustic stands started serving jerk at nearby Boston Bay Beach in the 1930s, and although the beach is not award winning, the jerk is. Six or so open-air jerk stands, each with its own special recipe, serve up fiery pork, chicken, fresh fish or lobster, and the less common jerk sausage. Must-include ingredients are allspice (called pimento), thyme, and the super-hot chili Scotch bonnet, with the meat slow-cooked over a wood fire, usually in steel drums cut lengthwise. Roll up your sleeves and tuck into the spicy fare with all the trimmings—sweet baked yams, “festival” (deep-fried cornbread) fritters, and the requisite Red Stripe beer—and there’s always reggae music playing somewhere.
In Port Antonio, Woody’s Low Bridge Place is famous for burgers (including great veggie burgers) and charming service courtesy of Woody Cousins and his wife, Cherry. But if you call ahead they’ll make jerk chicken and curried goat to order. It’s one of the highlights of staying at nearby Hotel Mocking Bird Hill, a ten-room eco-friendly inn on six tropical hilltop acres (with more than 40 endemic species, it’s excellent for birders), far removed from the hustle of the island’s mass tourism. Its restaurant, Mille Fleurs, is known for using local, organic ingredients and a daily-changing menu that serves innovative fare like soufflé made with ackee fruit or chicken in plum sauce, with an orange custard drizzled with wild orange liqueur for dessert. The two hands-on owners encourage you to explore the area, with trips to the closeby sandy beaches of Frenchman’s Cove, the spring-fed Blue Lagoon—a 180-foot-deep indigo hole—or the Rio Grande for slow-moving, poled bamboo rafting, a method once used to transport bananas.
WHERE: 60 miles/97 km northeast of Kingston. WOODY’S LOW BRIDGE: Tel 876-436-5624. Cost: dinner $18. HOTEL MOCKING BIRD HILL: Tel 876-993-7267; www.hotelmockingbirdhill.com. Cost: from $175; dinner $50. BEST TIMES: Nov–Apr for good weather; Jul for Jerk Festival.
Island Cuisine—C’est Magnifique
THE FLAVORS OF MARTINIQUE
Martinique, Lesser Antilles
Unspoiled corners of this mountainous island look much as they did when Napoleon’s empress, Josephine, was growing up here on the family sugar plantation in the late 18th century; the same lush islandscape inspired Paul Gauguin long before his better-known journey to Tahiti. It is the most French of the Caribbean islands, so it is little wonder, then, that local gastronomy—a mélange of classic French and Creole’s fusion of local ingredients with Indian and African influence—plays a major role in the island’s heritage and allure as a stroll through the local spice market in Fort-de-France will confirm.
Martinique is famous for its rums, which have been awarded the prestigious French designation Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée (AOC) and have long been the foundation of many traditional island recipes. The Route de Rhum will bring you to 12 of the island’s best distilleries, including the historic Habitation Clément in Le François.
The island’s east coast has emerged as the best destination for fine dining. A front-runner in Martinique’s vital food scene is the chic and intimate Hotel Plein Soleil, set on a hilltop offering gorgeous views of the Atlantic. Sixteen brightly colored rooms, some with a private plunge pool, accommodate those who come for the innovative cuisine prepared by Nathanael Ducteil, trained by French master Alain Ducasse in Paris and known here for his contemporary flavors. Nearby Cap Est Lagoon Resort & Spa is the pinnacle of the luxury scene in Martinique, with 50 coolly minimal suites housed in 18 multihued villas reminiscent of Creole design. Restaurant Le Belem is known for its expansive buffet breakfasts and elegant dinners as well as for having the country’s best wine cellar.
For stellar beaches, head south to Les Salines, a mile-long cove of soft white sand with perfectly calm waters, and Diamant Beach, more than 6 miles of bright shoreline that’s perfect for picnicking and lazy beachcombing.
Martinique’s interior is lush and hilly, as a drive north along the Route de Trace from Fort-de-France reveals. Springtime is the best time to see the wild displays of lotus, red ginger, and West Indian jasmine that gave Martinique the nickname “Isle of Flowers.” Pull over at Le Jardin de Balata for a close-up of 3,000 plant species on 7 artfully planted acres. Continue north to Mont Pelée (Bald Mountain), a massive and still smoldering 4,583-foot volcano that in 1902 literally vaporized the colonial capital, St. Pierre, in the century’s first and worst volcanic disaster. Bare and beautiful, Mont Pelée is a dramatic setting for hikes and bird-spotting around its base.
Rum ages in barrels at Habitation Clément, a distillery dating back to 1887.
VISITOR INFO: www.martinique.org. HOTEL PLEIN SOLEIL: Tel 596-596-38-07-77; www.hotelpleinsoleil.fr. Cost: from $155 (off-peak), from $230 (peak); dinner $65. CAP EST: Tel 596-596-54-80-80; www.capest.com. Cost: from $580 (off-peak), from $870 (peak); dinner $70. BEST TIMES: late Feb or Mar for Carnival; mid-May for Sainte-Marie Culinary Week; early Dec for Sainte-Marie Rum Festival.
Puerto Rico’s Wild West and Most Beautiful Back Road
RINCÓN AND LA RUTA PANORAMICA
Puerto Rico, Greater Antilles
Puerto Rico’s wild and wonderful west coast is one of the world’s top surfing destinations, and its town of Rincón was put on the map when the World Surfing Championships were held here on Domes Beach in 1968. Rincón means “corner”—this is where the Atlantic and Caribbean meet, giving rise to waves that can break at heights of up to 25 feet. The secret has long been out—this California-vibe town attracts a steady flow of transient surfers fro
m around the globe—but it’s a revelation to most.
Standing in contrast to Rincón’s casual beach culture is the elegant and curiously named Horned Dorset, a sumptuous getaway for the smart set from San Juan. Situated on 7 acres with its own secluded beach, the 39-suite Spanish Neocolonial property maintains an ambience of quiet pampering. You’ll feel as if this were the aristocratic home of a Spanish grandee whose coddled houseguests lounge in exotic gardens by a beautiful palm-flanked freshwater pool, between one superb meal and the next.
In nearby Mayagüez begins La Ruta Panoramica, a 165-mile drive that traverses the island, twisting and turning its way through lush, mountainous Corillera Central, dipping into valleys and passing small villages and farms before ending at Maunabo in the east. Plan at least 2 days for a one-way trip, with lots of photo ops of both the Atlantic and the Caribbean; brown ruta (“route”) signs connect an assemblage of 40-plus roads. A good midway resting place is the charming Hacienda Gripiñas, an 1858 plantation house turned inn that helps steep you in the coffee culture that still thrives along this route. Just up the hill on one of the island’s highest peaks, visit the forest preserve Toro Negro, more remote and less crowded than El Yunque (see p. 1096). Take a hike, then head back to the inn for dinner—perhaps choosing their excellent carne guisada, a traditional beef stew made with tomatoes and pigeon peas.
WHERE: Rincón is 100 miles/161 km west of San Juan. VISITOR INFO: www.rincon.org. HORNED DORSET: Tel 800-633-1857 or 787-823-4030; www.horneddorset.com. Cost: from $360 (off-peak), from $596 (peak); dinner $80. HACIENDA GRIPIÑAS: Tel 787-828-1717; www.haciendagripinas.com. Cost: from $135, inclusive. BEST TIMES: Nov–Apr for surfing and good weather; Feb for whale-watching; mid-Feb for the Coffee Festival in Maricao; Mar for Whale Festival in Rincón.
A Sizzling Arts Scene amid Architectural Treasures
OLD SAN JUAN
Puerto Rico, Greater Antilles
El Viejo San Juan, the seven-square-block landmark zone of the island’s capital, is a perfectly preserved microcosm of Spanish Colonial architecture and a walk back through history. In fact, were it not for the chaotic traffic jams that are its liaison with reality, this nearly 500-year-old open-air theater set would look almost too beautiful to be authentic. Its narrow streets are paved with adoquine (a blue stone used as ballast on Spanish galleons), and its 16th-century fortresses, particularly the impregnable six-level El Morro rising 150 feet above the sea, still strike one as engineering marvels. This showcase of protected old-world landmarks is also chockablock with fashionable bistros, designer shops, art galleries, churches, and Colonial town houses with flowering wrought-iron balconies.
The elegant El Convento was one of the first historic boutique hotels in the heart of Old San Juan, helping transform the district into one of the most vibrant historic and artistic communities in the Caribbean. The imposing 1651 Carmelite convent (which later served as a dance hall, a Howard Johnson’s, and even a flophouse) has original details such as wooden beams and handmade tiles. Stop by Cana, its small and popular jazz bar.
High atop the Old City’s North Wall sits the Gallery Inn, six interconnecting town houses that combine to create a quiet, quirky labyrinth of tilted staircases, open-air patios, and small pocket gardens. Owner Jan D’Esopo decorated each of the 22 eclectic rooms, lending an artist’s sensibility while respecting the traditional setting. Its Wine Deck commands the highest point in the city, offering the best views of Old San Juan, the Atlantic Ocean, and San Juan Bay. For those who like Latin music and late nights and don’t mind the noise, Da House (a hotel housed in a former Franciscan monastery) is right above the Nuyorican Café, which is the best spot for live salsa and Caribbean-influenced jazz with a mixed-age crowd.
By day, stroll the side streets of the historic district, grazing on street food and local dishes like mallorcas (grilled pastries filled with ham and cheese), mofongo (mashed plantains, garlic, and herbs with chicken), bacalaitos (salted cod fritters), and piragua (mounds of flavored shaved ice). By night, head to the lively SoFo district (South of Calle Fortaleza) for a music and dance scene that includes bomba, danza, salsa, and reggaeton—the hybrid of rap and reggae—pouring out into the streets from the raft of late-night clubs.
In Old San Juan’s main square, Plaza de Armas, four statues represent the seasons.
VISITOR INFO: www.gotopuertorico.com. EL CONVENTO: Tel 800-468-2779 or 787-723-9020; www.elconvento.com. Cost: from $180 (off-peak), from $260 (peak). THE GALLERY INN: Tel 866-572-2783 or 787-722-1808; www.thegalleryinn.com. Cost: from $140 (off-peak), from $210 (peak). DA HOUSE: Tel 787-366-5074; www.dahousehotelpr.com. Cost: from $80. BEST TIMES: Nov–Apr for nice weather; Jan for Festival de la Calle San Sebastian; mid-Feb–mid-Mar for Festival Casals; late Jun for Fiesta de San Juan Bautista; Jul for Puerto Rico Salsa Congress.
Off-the-Radar in the Spanish Virgin Islands
VIEQUES AND CULEBRA
Puerto Rico, Greater Antilles
Puerto Rico’s small sister island Vieques is distinctive both for what it lacks (souvenir shops, spas, stoplights, and most other signs of tourist development) and what it possesses (a bioluminescent bay, dozens of nearly deserted beaches, and a thriving population of free-roaming horses).
The 62-year presence of the U.S. Navy, which occupied more than half the 21-mile island, kept the island from being developed. When it departed in 2003, the base became a national wildlife refuge (much of it is still closed to the public because of the ongoing cleanup of unexploded ammunition). Vieques is a remarkable throwback to the old days of the Spanish Virgin Islands, and the perfect escape for wound-up mainlanders and San Juaneros, who travel here for natural beauty and the restorative pleasures of doing next to nothing.
An all-natural psychedelic experience is to be had at Mosquito Bay, the best and brightest bioluminescent bay in the world. The combination of nutrients from mangroves and nearly landlocked waters has created a massive concentration of dinoflagellates (called pyrodiniums or “whirling fire”) that create a blue-greenish glow visible at night around anything that touches the water. The phenomenon is best viewed on dark, moonless evenings either aboard an electric boat (gasoline exhaust harms the creatures) or even better, by kayak, the eerie luminescence appearing with each paddle stroke. Trolling your hand overboard and “making angels” by swimming in the water are part of the magic.
In Vieques’s growing selection of inns and small hotels (a W hotel made news as the first big name to arrive on the island in 2010), Hacienda Tamarindo was one of the first and is still one of the most satisfying, thanks to the hands-on approach of the owners. Named for the ancient tamarind tree that anchors the patio, the villa is set atop a hill with bright rooms open to the refreshing trade winds and sweeping views of the Caribbean.
Vieques’s most popular beaches are east of Esperanza and include the beautiful Sun Bay, backed by trees and grasses where descendants of the paso fino horses left by the Spanish centuries ago roam freely. Cap your day with crab empanadas, habichuelas (a rice and beans staple), and a cold Medalla cerveza at El Resuelve, a casual restaurant run by locals. The longtime hot spot Chez Shack has the best barbecued ribs and crab cakes on the island and a great Reggae Grill night on Mondays in high season.
For even less of a scene, the tiny 7-by-4-mile island of Culebra to the north possesses one of the world’s most beautiful beaches, Playa Flamenco. This brilliant white sand crescent with stunning turquoise waters is the best spot to encounter hawksbill turtles and angelfish among the reefs. A 20-minute walk to the west is the island’s hidden jewel, Carlos Rosario Beach, where the shallow reef and calm, protected bay make for the island’s best snorkeling. When your appetite rises, head to Dewey (the only town on the island) for waterside dining at Mamacita’s, justly famous for its frozen cocktails and live conga band on Saturday nights.
VISITOR INFO: www.gotopuertorico.com. MOSQUITO BAY: Numerous operators lead tours, including Island Adventures Biobay Eco-Tours. Tel 787-741-0720; www.biobay.com. HACIENDA T
AMARINDO: Tel 787-741-8525; www.haciendatamarindo.com. Cost: from $135 (off-peak), from $195 (peak). EL RESUELVE: 787-741-1427. Cost: dinner $15. CHEZ SHACK: Tel 787-741-2175. Cost: dinner $40. MAMACITA’S: Tel 787-742-0090; www.mamacitasguesthouse.com. Cost: dinner $35. BEST TIME: Nov–Apr for pleasant weather.
America’s Only Tropical Rain Forest
EL YUNQUE NATIONAL FOREST
Puerto Rico, Greater Antilles
A popular day trip from San Juan, El Yunque combines all the magic of a rain forest—majestic trees, giant ferns, and mysterious peeps and trills emanating from the dense foliage in the rugged Luquillo Mountains. As the only tropical rain forest in the United States National Forest System, El Yunque provides paved trails that are easy on children and inexperienced hikers. It even offers a drive-through option for windshield tourists who can enjoy the misty landscape and roadside waterfalls along Route 191, the only road through the 28,000-acre forest.
But El Yunque, considered sacred by the Taino Indians, is indubitably best experienced on foot. Home to thousands of plants, including 240 tree species (23 of which are found nowhere else) and 70 orchids, El Yunque has 13 hiking trails covering 23 miles of varied terrain. The hardy can summit El Toro and take in spectacular 360-degree views of the forest, but even small children can handle the less-than-a-mile-long Big Tree Trail that wends past La Mina Falls, whose cascades plummet 35 feet into a cool, refreshing pool of water—the perfect plunge on a hot day. The 3-mile El Yunque Trail is considered the most rewarding. The farther away you can get from the cruise-ship crowds, the more jungle magic you’ll find.
1,000 Places to See Before You Die Page 172