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The Chiffon Trenches

Page 27

by André Leon Talley


  For the 2008 Met Gala, my scarlet cape, which Venus Williams used for shelter, was designed by Karl Lagerfeld for Chanel. My suit is by Ralph Lauren. Venus’s bronze evening gown was designed by Carolina Herrera.

  With Cher in 1997. My coat is by Gianni Versace, gray satin quilted, to the knee, with tons of real brooches and Fred Leighton diamond pins plastered all over the lapel, over my heart.

  Ascending the red-carpet stairs in a court card designed for me by Nicolas Ghesquière for Balenciaga, as Anna Wintour (in Chanel haute couture) and her daughter, Bee Shaffer Carrozzini (also in Balenciaga), pose for the cameras, 2011.

  Continuing the tradition of the elegant walker, or dandy, I managed to be photographed with Lee Radziwill, attending a Vanity Fair party, in 2008. Lee wears an elegant, all-white silk Dior trouser suit with a double-breasted jacket, hair slicked back in a French twist. I am wearing a white crocodile balmacaan, designed especially for me by Miuccia Prada.

  With Diane von Fürstenberg, one of my oldest and dearest friends, at President Barack Obama’s inauguration, January 2009.

  For Reverend Doctor Calvin O. Butts III, minister of the Abyssinian Baptist Church, New York City

  In loving memory of Lee Bouvier Radziwill

  ACKNOWLEDGMENTS

  Thank you to my editor, Pamela Cannon, and everyone at Ballantine Books, including Jennifer Hershey, Kara Welsh, Kim Hovey, Lexi Batsides, Jennifer Garza, Michelle Jasmine, Debbie Aroff, Kathleen Quinlan, Richard Elman, Elizabeth Rendfleisch, Robert Siek, and Robbin Schiff, for all your assistance.

  Thank you to my wonderful literary agent, David Vigliano, and his associate, Ruth Ondarza.

  I must thank Thomas Flannery, for his tireless work in putting this book together.

  His brilliance and insight from the beginning of the project to the end made my journey in words happen in the best way possible.

  Thank you to the artists, photographers, and estates who so kindly allowed use of their images: Jonathan Becker, Alessio Boni, Arthur Elgort, Bertrand Rindoff, Colin Douglas Gray, Robert Fairer, Diane von Fürstenberg, Garrett Rittenberg, Kimberly Cole Moore, the estate of Bill Cunningham, the estate of Diana Vreeland, especially her grandsons, Alexander and Nicholas Vreeland, the estate of Helmut Newton, the estate of Karl Lagerfeld, and the estate of Lee Radziwill.

  Thank you to my great Armonk team of wonderful drivers and managers: Raoul Joseph, Mark Maffia, Juan Lazona, Patrick Talty, and Rafael Ruiz, and finally, Lisa Bove, who will skate on thin ice to make sure my schedule is ready and cars are waiting at the curb.

  Naomi Campbell is my ultra angel; she gives me so much love. Complete. Supreme.

  Love.

  Thank you to Will.i.am for believing in me.

  Thank you to Riccardo Ajossa, Jack Alexander, Patricia Altschul, Sara Arnell, Peter Eric Assue, Shelton Barrett, Anne Bass, Chase H. Beck, Richard Benefield, Lynn and Marc Benioff, Bonnie Berman, Sandra Bernhard, Eli Binstok, Manolo Blahnik, Deeda Blair, Mayor Michael Bloomberg, Linda Bell Blue, Alex and Eliza Reed Bolen, Tina Brown, Reverend Dr. Calvin O. Butts III, Mrs. Patricia Butts, John Camperlengo, Beatrice Caracciolo, Mariah Carey, Graydon Carter, Englebert de Castro, Tomas Cathecart, esq., Betty Catroux, Dolores de Celestino, Nancy Chilton, Grace Coddington, Partricia Colwell, Chad Cooper, Jared Cooper, esq., Yvonne Cormier, Joseph Corron, Laurie Dawoyt, Alex Denis, Georgia and Alex Donaldson, Andrea Donnelly, Maureen Dowd, Carlyne Cerf de Dudzeele, Edward Enninful, Mica Ertegun, Roz Evans, Laurie Ann Farell, Dr. Claudia Felberg, Silvia Venturini Fendi, Dany Filson, Dr. Michael Finkelstein, Evan Fishburn, Tom Ford, Susan Fox, Bruno Frisoni, John Galliano, Valentino Garavani, Wanda Garrett, Giancarlo Giammetti, Robyn Gibbons, Dr. Charles Glassman, Whoopi Goldberg, Tonne Goodman, Wendy Goodman, Martin Grant, Michael Guthrie, Tamron and Moses Hall, Bethann Hardison, Carolina Herrera, Spencer Hersh, Derron Hogg, Deborah Hughes, Iman, Bill Jacobs, Marc Jacobs, Kris Jenner, Jimmy, Chandra, Evie, and Lydia Johnson, Norma Kamali, Chaka Khan, Reverend Dr. Carolyn Ann Knight, Michael Kors, Alexandra Kotur, Jennifer Kumwenda, Dr. Marina Kurian, Hildy Kuryk, Ralph Lauren, Carl Louisville, Helene de Lundinghausen, Tiggy Maconochie, George Malkemus, Dr. Victor Marks, Catie and Donald Marron, Serena Marron, William Marron, Charles Masson, Manfred Mautsch, Janis Mayes, Ari Melber, Felix Montalvo, Michael Moore, Dr. Michael Morledege, Peggy Noonan, Kate Novak, Patrick O’Connell, Jennifer Park, Barry and Willie Parker, Saundra Parks, Dr. Leon Popovitz, Miuccia Prada, Georgia Nunn Purefoy, Brian Raines, Julia Reed, Annette de la Renta, Sir John Richardson, Fiona Da Rin, Jane Rosenthal, Isabella Rossellini, Andrew Rossi, Eric de Rothschild, Ralph Rucci, Rosina Rucci, Joe and Mika Scarborough, Ivan Shaw, Ashley Shift, Sally Singer, Jada Pinkett Smith, Will Smith, Molly Sorkin, Hamilton South, Carlos de Souza, Theo Spilka, Sara Switzer, Paul Tadeushuk, Princess Gloria von Thurn und Taxis, Diane Taylor, Alexis Thomas, Teddy Tinson, Patience Torolowei, Reverend Dr. Eboni Marshall Turman, Rossi Turman, esq., Connie Uzzo, Diego Della Valle, André Walker, Darren Walker, Paula and Glenn Wallace, Sharon Wallberg, Vera Wang, Bruce and Beverly Weaver, Kanye West, Kim Kardashian West, Vivienne Westwood, Serena Williams, Venus Williams, Wendy Williams, Oprah Winfrey, Anna Wintour, Ron Worgul, Dr. Jeanette Yuen, Tony Yurigaitis, and Renée Zellweger.

  PHOTO CREDITS

  1, 2 Photograph by Arthur Elgort; 3, 4 Photograph © The Bill Cunningham Foundation. All rights not specifically granted herein are hereby reserved to the Licensor;  5 © Thomas Iannaccone;  6 Photo by André Leon Talley; 7 © Getty Images/Sonia Moskowitz; 8, 9 Photograph by Arthur Elgort;  10 Photograph © The Bill Cunningham Foundation. All rights not specifically granted herein are hereby reserved to the Licensor;  11 © Getty Images/PL Gould;  12 Photograph by Arthur Elgort; 13 © Marina Schiano;  14 Photograph by André Leon Talley;  15 Photograph by Karl Lagerfeld; 16 Photograph by Arthur Elgort;  17 Diane von Fürstenberg;  18

  Photograph by Colin Douglas Gray;  19 Letter courtesy of the Radziwill estate; 20

  Photograph by Karl Lagerfeld;  21 © Alessio Boni

  INSERT

  22, 23 Photograph by Jonathan Becker; 24 © Garrett Rittenberg;  25 © Bertrand Rindoff Petroff/Bestimage;  26 © Robert Fairer; 27 © Getty Images/Rose Hartman;  28 © Getty Images/Evan Agostini;  29 © Getty Images/Michael Loccisano; 30 © Getty Images/Dimitrios Kambouris;  31 © Getty Images/DAVID X

  PRUTTING/Patrick McMullan;  32 © Getty Images/Ron Galella; 33 © Getty Images/Stephen

  Lovekin;  34

  ©

  Getty

  Images/BILLY

  FARRELL/Patrick

  McMullan;  35 Courtesy of DVF Archives

  BY ANDRÉ LEON TALLEY

  A.L.T.

  ABOUT THE AUTHOR

  One of the most recognizable names and silhouettes in fashion journalism, André Leon Talley was the indomitable creative director at Vogue during the magazine’s rising dominance as the world’s fashion bible. Over the past five decades, his byline has also appeared in Vanity Fair, HG, Interview, and Women’s Wear Daily. He has published several illustrated works, including Little Black Dress, A.L.T.: 365+, and Oscar de la Renta: His Legendary World of Style. Talley is also the subject of the documentary The Gospel According to André. He received his MA in French studies from Brown and was on the board of trustees for the Savannah College of Art and Design for twenty years.

  Twitter: @OfficialALT

  Instagram: @andreltalley

  Martin Grant

  Years ago I was looking around Barneys with my friend André Leon Talley and fell upon a black leather jacket that I was mad about. I hadn’t heard of the designer but naturally Andre knew immediately that it was Martin Grant an Australian who now lives and works in Paris. So do I! At least part of the year, so when I returned the first thing I did was to track him down. It wasn’t easy but I was determined. Finally I found his minuscule shop in the Marais but it was closed for lunch. I walked around & around until it was open & there he was! This young skinny, skinny super low key Australian who will a
lways look like a boy & already had great success in his country.

  For me his talent is exceptional especially for coats and leather jackets he is unbeatable. He is not trendy because he understands & respects line, proportion & simplicity.

  How lucky we are that he came to Paris and doesn’t need or want to show off.

  Now his quarters are large & lovely & all these years we remain the closest friends.

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  Document Outline

  Cover

  Title Page

  Copyright

  Contents

  Epigraph

  Introduction

  Chapter I

  Chapter II

  Chapter III

  Chapter IV

  Chapter V

  Chapter VI

  Chapter VII

  Chapter VIII

  Chapter IX

  Chapter X

  Chapter XI

  Chapter XII

  Chapter XIII

  Chapter XIV

  Chapter XV

  Chapter XVI

  Chapter XVII

  Chapter XVIII

  Chapter XIX

  Chapter XX

  Best-Dressed List

  Photo Insert

  Dedication

  Acknowledgments

  Photo Credits

  Other Titles

  About the Author

  Table of Contents

  Cover

  Title Page

  Copyright

  Contents

  Epigraph

  Introduction

  Chapter I

  Chapter II

  Chapter III

  Chapter IV

  Chapter V

  Chapter VI

  Chapter VII

  Chapter VIII

  Chapter IX

  Chapter X

  Chapter XI

  Chapter XII

  Chapter XIII

  Chapter XIV

  Chapter XV

  Chapter XVI

  Chapter XVII

  Chapter XVIII

  Chapter XIX

  Chapter XX

  Best-Dressed List

  Photo Insert

  Dedication

  Acknowledgments

  Photo Credits

  Other Titles

  About the Author

 

 

 


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