Newcomer's Handbook for Moving to and Living in Portland: Including Vancouver, Gresham, Hillsboro, Beaverton, Tigard, and Wilsonville

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Newcomer's Handbook for Moving to and Living in Portland: Including Vancouver, Gresham, Hillsboro, Beaverton, Tigard, and Wilsonville Page 1

by Geon, Bryan




  Table of Contents

  Introduction

  Neighborhoods and Communities

  City of Portland

  Downtown Portland and Environs

  Downtown Portland

  Goose Hollow

  Old Town and the Pearl District

  The West Hills

  Southwest Portland

  South Portland

  Hillsdale and Multnomah Village

  Bridlemile and Vermont Hills

  Burlingame and the Tryon Creek Area

  Outer Southwest Neighborhoods

  Northwest Portland

  Northwest–Nob Hill

  Forest Park and Environs

  Northeast Portland

  Irvington, Sabin, and the Lloyd District

  Alameda, Grant Park, and Hollywood

  Beaumont Village, Wilshire Park, and Rose City Park

  The Alberta Arts District and Concordia

  Other Northeast Neighborhoods

  Southeast Portland

  Inner Southeast Portland

  Laurelhurst

  The Hawthorne, Belmont, and Division Street Districts

  Mount Tabor

  Sellwood & The Morelands

  Reed, Creston-Kenilworth, and Woodstock

  North Tabor, South Tabor, and Montavilla

  Other Southeast Portland Neighborhoods

  North Portland

  Boise-Eliot, the North Mississippi District, King, and Overlook

  Arbor Lodge and Kenton

  St. Johns and University Park

  Outer North Portland Neighborhoods

  Outer East Portland

  Surrounding Communities

  Beaverton and Surrounding Areas

  Beaverton

  West Slope, Raleigh Hills, and Garden Home

  North of the Sunset Highway: West Haven, Cedar Mill, Oak Hills, Bethany, and Rock Creek

  Aloha

  Southeastern Washington County

  Tigard

  Durham

  Bull Mountain

  King City

  Tualatin

  Sherwood

  Western Washington County

  Hillsboro

  Cornelius

  Forest Grove

  Outlying Washington County Communities

  Southwest Clackamas County

  Dunthorpe and Riverdale

  Lake Oswego

  West Linn

  Stafford

  Wilsonville

  Clackamas County—Southern Suburbs

  Milwaukie

  Oak Grove, Jennings Lodge, and Oatfield

  Gladstone

  Oregon City

  Canby

  Clackamas County—Southeastern Suburbs

  Clackamas and Sunnyside

  Happy Valley

  Damascus

  Outer Clackamas County

  Gresham

  Fairview, Wood Village, and Troutdale

  Corbett and Springdale

  Vancouver and Clark County

  Vancouver

  Camas

  Washougal

  Unincorporated Clark County: Hazel Dell, Lake Shore, Orchards, Felida, Salmon Creek, and Brush Prairie

  Battle Ground

  Ridgefield, La Center, and Woodland

  Amboy and Yacolt

  Other Outlying Communities

  Columbia County and Sauvie Island

  Yamhill County

  Marion County

  The Columbia Gorge

  Finding a Place to Live

  Moving and Storage

  Money Matters

  Getting Settled

  Helpful Services

  Shopping for the Home

  Childcare and Education

  Schools

  Higher Education

  Pets

  Cultural Life

  Sports and Recreation

  Greenspaces

  Getting Involved

  Weather and Natural Disasters

  Transportation

  Green Living

  Temporary Lodgings

  Quick Getaways

  A Portland Year

  January

  February

  March

  April

  May

  June

  July

  August

  September

  October

  November

  December

  A Portland Reading List

  Useful Phone Numbers and Websites

  About the Author

  Introduction

  Welcome to Portland, one of the most livable urban areas in America! Call it Stumptown, Rose City, Rip City, Beervana, Bridgetown, Puddletown, Portlandia, or PDX, it’s your town now. (Just don’t call it Portland, or-eh-GONE. The state name is pronounced OR-uh-gun. Practice before you arrive.) Portland is located at the northern end of the fertile Willamette Valley, just over an hour east of the coast—it’s called the coast here, not the shore or the beach—and an equal distance west of the crest of the Cascade Mountains. The high desert is a two-hour drive to the east, and world-class wineries are 45 minutes to the southwest. Abundant recreational opportunities make the city a favorite of outdoor enthusiasts, and from the city’s West Hills, and even from some downtown office buildings, it’s possible to see the Columbia River Gorge and five snowcapped volcanoes: Mounts Hood, St. Helens, Adams, Rainier, and Jefferson. Top that, Topeka!

  Of course, Portland’s appeal transcends its spectacular setting. The city is known for its vibrant neighborhoods, activist urban planning, environmental awareness, progressive politics, coffeehouse and brewpub culture, and, yes, for its rain. So what’s it really like here? Well, though Portland enjoys more than its fair share of pleasant, well-preserved urban neighborhoods, connected to one another by bike lanes and transit, and benefits from a state law limiting the extent of urban sprawl, it is also afflicted with strip malls, traffic congestion, ill-conceived development, and other assorted maladies of the modern American metropolis. A key difference is that in Portland you can arrange your life so that you don’t have to deal with those problems. If you want to live in a close-in neighborhood, within walking distance of cafés and food markets, and ride your bike to work every day, you can. (You won’t necessarily be able to afford to buy a house in such a neighborhood, however.) If you prefer to live in a suburban community and move around by car, you can do that, too.

  A word on politics: it is true that Portlanders on average are more liberal than the citizens of the typical American burg—when Money magazine rated Portland the country’s best place to live in 2000, it warned conservatives to stay away, and the views of most residents have not lurched to the right since then—but it is not the solidly left-wing monolith it is often portrayed to be. The city and its surrounding region boast a surprising diversity of political opinion, ranging from a vocal community of socially conservative evangelicals to proud anarchists, and from a strong libertarian contingent to a small community of Trotskyites. (The latter get nervous around ice picks.) In general, suburban communities tend to be more conservative than city neighborhoods, and inner Southeast Portland is more liberal than other parts of the city, but as a whole the region is probably no more liberal (or conservative) than any other large coastal metropolitan area.

  When it comes to craft beer and coffee, most Portlanders sensibly put ideology aside. There are 74 breweries in the Portland met
ro area. Of these, 54 operate within city limits, giving Portland reportedly more breweries than any other city in the world. Oregonians spend more on craft beer than on Anheuser-Busch and MillerCoors beers combined. And Portland’s coffee scene is every bit the equal of Seattle’s, with local roasters like Stumptown Coffee Roasters (www.stumptowncoffee.com) winning awards for both quality and sustainable business practices. Don’t miss the burgeoning tea scene, either, based on well-established local tea manufacturers as well as an increasing number of unique tea houses. Many Portlanders consider coffee (or tea) essential for coping with the rain.

  Ah, the rain. While it’s true that Portland has its share of rainy days, much of the city’s precipitation falls in the form of a fine mist or drizzle. Often a day that starts out cloudy becomes bright and sunny by afternoon (or vice versa). Many locals will tell you that the rain is easier to cope with than the seemingly interminable parade of cloudy days we endure in late autumn and winter. Spring and fall have their share of bright days, however, and summers are reliably warm and sunny.

  Whatever you think about the weather, it certainly doesn’t seem to be deterring new residents. Lured by Portland’s reputation, by job opportunities in certain industries, and even by the results of online relocation quiz sites like www.findyourspot.com and Find Your Own Best Place (www.bestplaces.net/fybp/), it seems like everyone knows someone who’s moving to Portland (or thinking about it). Portland’s regional government, Metro, estimates that at least 725,000 newcomers, and possibly many more, will arrive in the area by 2035.

  Despite (and to some extent because of) the population influx, not everything is rosy in the Rose City. The region’s economy never fully recovered from a sharp recession in the early 2000s, and the Great Recession hit Oregon early and hard. The Portland metro area has subsequently seen strong job growth, but the state as a whole (and Clark County in southwest Washington) still has an unemployment rate above the national average. At the same time, Portland’s median income is comparatively low, at least compared to other large coastal cities.

  Perhaps low incomes wouldn’t be a problem if you could still buy a home for $100,000, but those days are gone. Home prices in many areas have rebounded and median prices now match or exceed prices at the peak of the pre-crash housing bubble (which in Portland was roughly summer 2007). And good luck finding a stand-alone house in a desirable close-in neighborhood for anything close to the median price. The pre-2007 boom in housing prices produced a corresponding explosion in residential construction, with new infill development and condo towers changing the faces of many neighborhoods; with the recovery of the housing market, this process seems to have restarted and may even be accelerating.

  The faces of Oregon’s residents are changing as well. Portland has had a vibrant African-American community since the First World War, and substantial Chinese and Japanese communities have been present since the nineteenth century, but the city is still, by some measures, the whitest major city in the country. Nonetheless, the metropolitan area is becoming more ethnically and racially diverse. The Hispanic population is fast-growing, and the area has also experienced substantial immigration from East and South Asia (especially Southeast Asia), Eastern Europe, and East and West Africa. Moreover, much of the growth in the nonwhite population has taken place in the suburbs, so the demographics of the entire region are changing. Still, while we are definitely becoming more diverse, the region has a long way to go before it mirrors the population mix in the United States as a whole.

  Local quirks, local lingo, local blogs, neighborhood web sites, urban planning, what to bring, address locator, Portland history

  Local Quirks

  You’ll see plenty of bumper stickers proclaiming a desire to “Keep Portland Weird!” (Never mind that this exhortation was lifted from a similar campaign in Austin, Texas.) Indeed, quirkiness (along with environmentalism) is the closest thing the city has to an official religion. The following are a few local quirks you should know about in advance:

  You can’t pump your own gas in Oregon. It’s against the law. (The only other state with this restriction is New Jersey.)

  There’s a nickel deposit on soft drink, beer, and water cans and bottles. Oregon was the first state in the country to pass a bottle bill.

  Despite the rainy winter climate, most Portlanders don’t carry umbrellas, and some don’t even own one.

  Voters in both Oregon and Washington have approved initiatives legalizing recreational marijuana use. Oregon is in the process of setting up a regulatory regime for sale and distribution, which should be finalized in 2016 (although possession of small quantities for personal use is legal as of mid-2015). Washington has already set up its system, and a number of stores are operating across the Columbia River. Local governments can regulate or choose to completely prohibit marijuana sales, and of course pot possession or sale (or transport across state lines, for Oregonians who just can’t wait) is still technically illegal under federal law.

  The Oregon Supreme Court has interpreted the Oregon Constitution to protect nude dancing as expressive speech. As a result, Portland supposedly has more strip clubs per capita than any other city in the country. There is also an annual naked bike ride, attracting thousands of participants.

  Many intersections in Eastside residential neighborhoods lack stop signs, resulting in trepidation for motorists, bicyclists, and pedestrians alike.

  Local Lingo

  Portland lacks a distinctive local dialect, and most Oregonians do not have a discernible regional accent (unless they’ve brought one from somewhere else). Most slang is age-based, rather than regional—who knows what teenagers are talking about half the time?—but some localisms can throw off the newcomer. Here’s a handy guide to a few potentially confusing expressions and pronunciations:

  Back East: Anywhere east of Denver.

  Ban Roll-On Building: The 1000 Broadway office tower downtown, so called because of its distinctive white dome (most noticeable from a distance).

  Big Pink: The US Bancorp Tower at Southwest Oak Street and Fifth Avenue downtown; this decidedly pinkish 42-story skyscraper is the second tallest building in Oregon.

  Car Prowl: Theft from an automobile.

  Civic Stadium: The old name for the stadium in Goose Hollow, now called Providence Park, where the Timbers soccer team plays; formerly, it was the home of the Portland Beavers minor-league baseball team, and was known over the years as Civic Stadium, PGE Park, and Jeld-Wen Field.

  Civil War: The annual football game between in-state rivals University of Oregon (the Ducks) and Oregon State University (the Beavers).

  Couch Street: It’s pronounced “cooch,” not like a sofa.

  CRC: The Columbia River Crossing project, a multi-billion dollar plan to replace the current Interstate 5 bridge over the Columbia River. After hundreds of millions were spent on planning, the project was abandoned for lack of funding.

  Doug Fir: The Douglas fir (Pseudotsuga menziesii), Oregon’s state tree. Also the name of a trendy bar and live music venue on East Burnside.

  Freddy’s: The Fred Meyer one-stop-shopping chain, now owned by Ohio-based Kroger. Fred Meyer was an actual person, and long-time residents still refer to the market as “Freddy’s.”

  Front Avenue: The old name for Naito Parkway, which runs along the Willamette River downtown.

  Glisan Street: Almost universally pronounced “GLEE-son,” although a few purists insist that it should be pronounced “glisten.”

  The Gorge: The Columbia River Gorge east of the city, where the Columbia cuts through the Cascade Mountains.

  Gorge Winds: The strong east winds that sometimes blow through the Gorge and into the metropolitan area.

  The Kicker: The somewhat controversial Oregon tax refund that is distributed during biennial budget cycles in which actual state revenues exceed projected revenues.

  Macadam: The name for Highway 43 between downtown Portland and Lake Oswego. Pronounced “mac-AD-um.”

  MAX: Metr
opolitan Area Express, Portland’s light rail system.

  McLoughlin: The name of a major thoroughfare in Southeast Portland and the adjacent suburbs. Pronounced “McLofflin.”

  NoPo: Hipster name for North Portland.

  The Pearl: The Pearl District, a hot neighborhood of high-end condos, restaurants, and boutiques, a few blocks northwest of downtown Portland.

 

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