LAND OF A MILLION ELEPHANTS
Laos was originally known as Lan Xang, the Land of a Million Elephants, yet curiously no recent statistics accurately record how many remain. Especially in Sainyabuli Province, working elephants have long been a mainstay of the logging industry, allowing tree trunks to be dragged out selectively without the clear-felling required for tractor access. Elephants are trained and worked by a mahout (handler) whose relationship with the animal is akin to a marriage and can last a lifetime. Elephants are generally owned by a consortium of villagers who share profits, costs and risks. To ensure a profit, owners need their animals to keep working but as a result, few working elephants have the energy for romance nor the time for a two-year maternity leave. With Lao elephants dying more often than they're born, the domestic elephant is likely to be extinct within 50 years, according to ElefantAsia (www.elefantasia.org), a partner in the highly impressive Elephant Conservation Center outside town. It also helped to found the popular Elephant Festival, held in Sainyabuli in mid-February. Meanwhile, numerous retired or 'unemployed' elephants have found alternative employment in tourism, notably around Luang Prabang and Pak Beng. However, this is not an altogether happy alternative as many are overworked, having to do as many as 20 treks a day with humans on their back, particularly uncomfortable for their stickleback spine, in blistering heat, with no socialisation time and largely unvaried diets. ElefantAsia's website offers various 'Read before you ride' tips to help tourists choose well-managed elephant camps, as not all are equal.
In 2015 a caravan of 12 elephants organised by the Center walked 440km to educate Laotians about their natural heritage and draw attention to the plight of the country's highly vulnerable elephant population. Their destination? Luang Prabang, for its 20th anniversary as a World Heritage Site. The arrival and parade of the elephants was its highlight.
zFestivals & Events
Elephant FestivalCULTURAL
(http://festival.elefantasia.org; hmid-Feb)
The popular Elephant Festival is a vast two-day jamboree featuring music, theatre and many a beer tent as well as elephant parades and skills demonstrations. In past years the venue has rotated annually between Pak Lai and Ban Viengkeo (near Hongsa), but it has finally settled in Sainyabuli.
4Sleeping
Santiphap GuesthouseGUESTHOUSE$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 13 Northern Rd; r with fan/air-con 60,000/100,000K)
Fresh rooms with en suite, armoire and desk, in these house-proud digs on the main drag. The manager is especially friendly and speaks good English.
Alooncheer HotelGUESTHOUSE$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %074-213136; r with fan 50,000-70,000K, with air-con 80,000-120,000K; a)
This sizeable Hmong-owned complex is quiet yet central. Its polished wood-panelled lobby is decorated with traditional instruments and most rooms have high ceilings, twee lamps and minibars. It's good value, but beware that the very cheapest rooms are a significant step down in quality.
5Eating & Drinking
Night MarketMARKET$
(h6-10pm)
This night market near the central roundabout has food stalls for noodle soup, Lao grills, fresh fruits and khànǒm (traditional sweets).
Nam Tiene RestaurantLAOTIAN$
(mains 25,000-60,000K, fish by weight; h6.30am-11pm)
Well-made, professionally presented food along with lovely reservoir views amply reward the excursion out here to the Nam Tien dam. Locals descend here at weekends and rent kooky avian-inspired pedalos.
Sainamhoung RestaurantLAOTIAN$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %074-211171; mains 25,000-70,000K; h7am-10pm; W)
Contemplate the bamboo-banked river and the looming Pak Kimin massif as you dine on tasty Lao food. Dishes include delectable steamed fish, grilled meats and varied exotica such as fried crickets and wasps, and bamboo worms.
Beer GardensBEER GARDEN
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 6-11pm)
There is some life beyond the dodgy and dark nightclubs in Sainyabuli and it comes in the form of a pair of lively beer gardens on the banks of the Nam Heung (Heung River). They draw a young crowd with a thirst for Beerlao.
8Information
Money
BCEL ( GOOGLE MAP ; h8.30am-3.30pm Mon-Fri) Changes money and has an ATM.
Post
Post Office ( GOOGLE MAP ; h8-11am & 1-5pm Mon-Fri)
Tourist Information
Tourist Office ( GOOGLE MAP ; %030-5180095; [email protected]; h8.30-11am & 2-4pm Mon-Fri) Good free city maps, English-speaking staff and rental of bikes and motorcycles.
8Getting There & Around
The airport is beside the main Pak Lai road, around 3km south of the centre. Lao Skyway used to fly to/from Vientiane, however, these flights were not operational at the time of writing.
From the main bus station 2.5km north of the centre, an 11am sŏrngtăaou runs to Hongsa (60,000K, three hours), continuing some days to Muang Ngeun (80,000K).
Vientiane is served via Luang Prabang and Pak Lai, both buses costing 120,000K. Services via Luang Prabang depart at 1pm and 4pm. The Pak Lai service (80,000K, four hours) departs at 9.30am and in the dry season only. Given the appallingly dusty road, this bus is a much better way to reach Pak Lai than taking sŏrngtăaou, which depart around 9am and noon from the southern bus station, a tiny stand 4km southwest of the airport.
The new Tha Deua bridge over the Mekong River is now open and this slashes journey times to Luang Prabang to just two to three hours by minibus or private vehicle. Slower buses (60,000K, three hours) depart at 9am and 2pm. Sakura Tour has teamed up with the Elephant Conservation Center to run a daily shuttle bus between Sainyabuli and Luang Prabang (100,000K, 2½ hours), departing at 8.30am in both directions. Contact Sakura or the Elephant Conservation Center for more details on this service.
Tuk-tuks to the bus stations ( GOOGLE MAP ) (main/southern 15,000/20,000K per person) depart from the main market.
GETTING TO THAILAND: MUANG NGEUN TO HUAY KON
Getting to the border The Muang Ngeun (Laos)/Huay Kon (Thailand) border crossing (8am to 5pm) is around 2.5km west of Muang Ngeun junction. Several sŏrngtăaou (passenger truck) make the run from Hongsa (45,000K, 1½ hours) to Muang Ngeun. Once the new bridge north of Pak Beng is open, there will also be a bus service.
Coming from Thailand, there's no restaurant nor any waiting transport on the Lao side, but if you can persuade the immigration officer to call for you, the afternoon sŏrngtăaou to Hongsa should be prepared to collect you for a small fee.
At the border Lao visas are available on arrival at this border, payable in US dollars or Thai baht, albeit at an unfavourable exchange rate. Most nationalities crossing into Thailand do not require a visa.
Moving on From the Thai side, if you don't want to walk your bags across the 1km of no-man's land you can pay 100B for a motorbike with a luggage-carrying sidecar. The Thai border post, Huay Kon, is not quite a village but does have simple noodle shops. The only public transport is a luxurious minibus (083-0243675) to Phrae (170B, five hours) via Nan (110B, three hours) departing from the border post at 11.45am. Northbound it leaves the bus stations in Phrae at 6am, and Nan at 8am.
Pak Lai ປາກລາຍ
Pop 12,000 / %074
The bustling Mekong river port of Pak Lai (ປາກລາຍ) is an almost unavoidable stop on the offbeat route between Sainyabuli and Loei in Thailand. The town follows a 5km curl of Rte 4, paralleled a block further east by a shorter riverside road that's sparsely dotted with historic structures in both Lao and French-colonial style. Exploring north to south, start at Wat Sisavang. Within the next 500m you'll pass the main guesthouses and river port before crossing a little old wooden bridge into an attractive village-like area of local homes beyond a small market.
1Sights
Wat SisavangBUDDHIST TEMPLE
(Wat Sisavangvong; GOOGLE MAP )
Wat Sisavang sports some older monks' quarters as well as a gaudily ornate new bell tower and
gateway.
4Sleeping
Sengchaleurn GuesthouseGUESTHOUSE$
( GOOGLE MAP ; %020-22068888; r 120,000K; aW)
Sengchaleurn Guesthouse has tidy rooms with air-con, bathroom and cool tile floors.
Jenny GuesthouseGUESTHOUSE$
( GOOGLE MAP ; %020-22365971; r with fan/air-con 70,000/110,000K; a)
Jenny's is clean with decent Mekong views, protective mozzie netting over windows and built-on bathroom blocks for each room. There's TV, blankets and comfortable beds. Sadly there's no cafe here.
5Eating
SaykhongLAOTIAN$
( GOOGLE MAP ; mains 20,000-40,000K; h7am-10.30pm)
With a great terrace and simple menu, Saykhong also pulls in the lion's share of the nightlife.
Kemkhong RestaurantLAOTIAN$
( GOOGLE MAP ; mains 20,000-40,000K; h6am-10.30pm)
Passable Lao grub from pork láhp to stir-fried food. The best thing is the river view; park yourself with a beer and watch the light turn a burnt peach.
8Information
Money
BCEL ( GOOGLE MAP ; h8.30am-3.30pm Mon-Fri) An ATM and currency exchange are available.
8Getting There & Away
Bring a face mask and disposable clothes if you attempt the Pak Lai–Sainyabuli journey by sŏrngtăaou (80,000K, four hours). These depart in both directions between 7.30am and 9.30am and once again around noon. Mud-crusted victims arrive at Pak Lai's little Sainyabuli bus station, 3km north of the centre. From there, tuk-tuks charge 10,000K per person to the guesthouses or 15,000K to the southern bus terminal. This terminal has a 9am bus to Vientiane (100,000K, six hours).
GETTING TO THAILAND: KAEN THAO TO THA LI
Getting to the border The quiet, rural Kaen Thao (Laos)/Tha Li (Thailand) border crossing (8am to 6pm) is the home of yet another (small) Friendship Bridge, this time over the Nam Heuang. From Pak Lai, there are sŏrngtăaou (passenger truck) to the border post at Kaen Thao at around 10am and noon (40,000K, 1¾ hours).
At the border Lao visas are available on arrival at this border – one passport-sized photo is required. Most nationalities crossing into Thailand do not require a visa.
Moving on After walking across the bridge you'll have to take a short sŏrngtăaou ride (30B) 8km to Tha Li before transferring to another sŏrngtăaou (40B) for the remaining 46km to Loei, from where there are regular connections to Bangkok and elsewhere.
Vientiane, Vang Vieng & Around
Vientiane, Vang Vieng & Around Highlights
Vientiane
Cycling Tour
Around Vientiane
Phu Khao Khuay NPA
Ban Na
Ban Hat Khai
Tat Xai, Pha Xai & Tat Leuk
Ang Nam Ngum & Around
Vang Vieng
Motorcycling
Vang Vieng towards Luang Prabang
Vientiane, Vang Vieng & Around
Why Go?
Vientiane is one of the smallest capital cities in Southeast Asia, but what it lacks in size it more than makes up for in character. Set on the banks of the mighty Mekong River, there is a palpable French influence, and it's the perfect place to recharge the batteries on an overland journey through Laos.
The urbane sophistication of Vientiane is a world away from the poetic beauty of the karst mountains of Vang Vieng and the dense jungles of Phu Khao Khuay National Protected Area (NPA).
Vang Vieng, one of Southeast Asia's leading adventure centres, is also one of the most beautiful spots in Laos. Rising up across the Nam Song (Song River), the limestone karst is a throwback to the Jurassic-era and is peppered with caves.
Throw in homestays and jungle treks around Phu Khao Khuay, the most accessible protected area in the country, and prepare to encounter some remarkable contrasts on your travels.
When to Go
ANov–Feb A great time to visit, with the magical Bun Pha That Luang (Full Moon Festival) in November.
AMar–May Temperatures and humidity levels climbs, but hotel prices fall.
AJun–Nov The monsoon brings fresh air and river festivals like Bun Awk Phansa and Bun Nam.
Best Places to Eat
A Doi Ka Noi
A Lao Kitchen
A Le Silapa
A Makphet Restaurant
A Senglao Cafe
Best Places to Sleep
A Ansara Hôtel
A Hotel Khamvongsa
A LV City Riverine Hotel
A Mandala Boutique Hotel
A Mixay Paradise Guesthouse
Vientiane, Vang Vieng & Around Highlights
1 Vang Vieng Tubing, climbing, kayaking, cycling, motorbiking or walking through the rivers and stunning karst terrain.
2 Lao cuisine Indulging in a culinary journey through Vientiane by sampling mod Lao, Gallic gastronomy and a fusion of other flavours.
3 Pha That Luang Seeking out the spiritual side of Laos with a visit to one of the principal Buddhist wats in Vientiane.
4 Nightlife Bar-hopping in Vientiane along Th Fa Ngoum and Th Setthathirath to discover another side to the sometimes sleepy Lao capital.
5 Phu Khao Khuay NPA Getting off the grid with a trip to this national protected area, with its diverse landscape, pretty waterfalls and authentic homestays.
Vientiane ວຽງຈັນ
Pop 700,000 / %021
From its sleepy tuk-tuk drivers to its cafe society and affordable spas, this former French trading post is languid to say the least. Eminently walkable, the historic old quarter of Vientiane (ວຽງຈັນ) beguiles with glittering temples, lunging naga (river serpent) statues, wandering Buddhist monks, and boulevards lined with frangipani and tamarind.
Meanwhile, with most of its old French villas now stylishly reincarnated into restaurants and small hotels, Vientiane is achieving an unprecedented level of panache with a distinctly Gallic flavour. For the well-heeled traveller and backpacker the city acquits itself equally well, be it with low-cost digs and street markets, or upscale boutique accommodation and gastronomic eateries.
Whether you spend your time in Vientiane lounging over a novel in an old-fashioned bakery, shopping in silk shops or swigging Beerlao while drinking up the fiery sunset over the Mekong, once you leave you’ll miss this place more than you expected.
History
Set on a bend in the Mekong River, Vientiane was first settled around the 9th century AD and formed part of one of the early Lao valley meuang (city-states) that were consolidated around the 10th century under the control of the Khmer empire. The Lao who settled here did so because the surrounding alluvial plains were so fertile, and initially the Vientiane meuang prospered and enjoyed a fragile sovereignty following the decline of Angkor.
In the ensuing centuries, Vientiane's fortunes have been mixed. At various times it has been a major regional centre; at other times it has been controlled by the Vietnamese, Burmese and Siamese.
The height of Vientiane's success was probably in the years after it became the Lan Xang capital in the mid-16th century, after King Setthathirat moved the capital from Luang Prabang. Several of Vientiane's wats were built following this shift and the city became a major centre of Buddhist learning.
It didn't last. Periodic invasions by the Burmese, Siamese and Chinese, and the eventual division of the Lan Xang kingdom took their toll on the city.
It wasn't until the Siamese installed Chao Anou, a Lao prince who had been educated in Bangkok, on the throne in 1805 that the city received an overdue makeover. Chao Anou's public works included Wat Si Saket, built between 1819 and 1824.
Unfortunately, Chao Anou's attempts to assert Lao independence over the Siamese resulted in the most violent and destructive episode in Vientiane's history. In 1828 the Siamese defeated Chao Anou's armies and wasted no time in razing the city and carting off much of the population. Wat Si Saket, the base for the Thai invaders, was the only major building to survive, and the city was abandoned.
In 1867 French explorers arrived but i
t wasn't until late in the century, after Vientiane had been made capital of the French protectorate, that serious reconstruction began. A simple grid plan was laid out for the city and a sprinkling of colonial-style mansions and administrative buildings emerged. However, Vientiane was always low in the French order of Indochinese priorities, as the modest building program testifies.
In 1928 the 'city' was home to just 9000 inhabitants – many of them Vietnamese administrators brought in by the French – and it wasn't until the end of WWII that Vientiane's population began to grow with any vigour. It was a growth fed primarily by Cold War dollars, with first French and later American advisors arriving in a variety of guises.
After a couple of coups d'état in the politically fluid 1960s, Vientiane had by the early '70s become a city where almost anything went. Its few bars were peopled by an almost surreal mix of spooks and correspondents, and the women who served them.
Not surprisingly, things changed with the arrival of the Pathet Lao (PL) in 1975. Nightclubs filled with spies were the first to go and Vientiane settled into a slumber punctuated by occasional unenthusiastic concessions to communism, including low-level collectivisation and an initial crackdown on Buddhism. These days the most noticeable leftovers from the period are some less-than-inspired Soviet-style buildings.
Lonely Planet Laos Page 22