Manorom Boutique HotelBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %021-250748; [email protected]; Th Hèngbounnoy; r US$35-45; naW)
Looming large over a small soi (lane) in the centre of town, this hotel offers exceptional value. The stylish lobby sets the tone for a well-presented Lao hospitality experience including polished wood floors, silk runners and tasteful handicrafts. This is verging on the budget boutique.
Phonepaseuth Guest HouseGUESTHOUSE$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %021-212263; 97 Th Pangkham; r from US$28; naiW)
This old, trusty place near Nam Phu is still going strong thanks to cool, spacious rooms, clean en suites, cable TV, wi-fi and fresh walls and linen. Opt for rooms facing the road if you want your own little balcony. Some nice interior touches include Hmong bed runners and wall-mounted shell lampshades.
Souphaphone GuesthouseGUESTHOUSE$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %021-261468; www.souphaphone.net; off Th François Ngin; r 170,000-200,000K; naiW)
A very tidy and house-proud guesthouse with 22 rooms, some with windows but all with fresh linen, cool tiled floors and pristine walls. Rooms also include attached bathroom, fridge, wi-fi and TV. Understandably, given the price point, it's often booked up.
Salana Boutique HotelBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %021-254254; www.salanaboutique.com; Th Chao Anou; standard/deluxe r US$135/145, ste from US$200; naW)
Highly polished, wood-flavoured Salana fuses Lao and contemporary styles to add a sleek dimension to Vientiane's accommodation scene. Rooms have wood floors, ethnically inspired bed runners, soft lighting, flat-screen TVs, safety deposit boxes, rain showers and nice little touches including frangipani flowers scattered around. Some rooms have fantastic temple views.
Dhavara Boutique HotelBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %021-222238; www.dhavarahotel.com; 25 Th Manthatourath; r US$180-600; naiW)
An opulent neoclassical hotel, the Dhavara offers some of the smartest rooms in the capital. Features include marble-clad bathrooms and parquet floors, as well as more predictable touches such as free wi-fi and a well-stocked minibar.
Le Luxe Boutique HotelBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %021-255777; www.leluxehotel.com; Th Fa Ngoum; r US$68-148; naW)
Le Luxe Boutique does what it says on the tin and combines a boutique hotel with some affordable luxe. With just 15 rooms, it is an intimate place to stay and the attention to detail is evident in every aspect. Good location in a quiet backstreet near the river.
Thanon Samsenthai & Around
Syri 1 Guest HouseGUESTHOUSE$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %021-212682; Th Saigon; r 50,000-150,000K; aiW)
Syri sits on a quiet street and has been a traveller fave for many years, and with good reason: generously sized rooms (with air-con or fan, en suite or shared bathroom), recesses to chill, a DVD lounge, bikes for rent, and tailored bike tours of the city. And 100% friendly.
Avalon B & BB&B$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %030-5828801; [email protected]; Th Phanompenh; dm 50,000-70,000K, r 200,000-240,000K, all incl breakfast; naW)
A popular little guesthouse on the backstreets near the national stadium, with 10-bed dorms available, including female-only options. The rooms are spacious and well appointed and all rates include a basic breakfast downstairs. Part of a growing Avalon empire that includes hotels in Vientiane and Savannakhet.
Champa Garden HotelBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %020-91585858; http://champagardenhotel.com; off Th François Ngin; r US$50-60; naWs)
Tucked away just off popular Th François Ngin, this is a delightful all-wooden boutique hotel set around a courtyard swimming pool. Despite its central location in the capital, it is very peaceful and feels more like a Luang Prabang–style hideaway. Rooms include flat-screen TV and a safety deposit box.
Day Inn HotelHOTEL$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %021-222985; [email protected]; 59/3 Th Pangkham; s/d/tr incl breakfast 500,000/600,000/900,000K; naiW)
This old-timer is something of a business-traveller's choice, and from its vanilla exterior to its restaurant serving up Asian fusion cuisine, it's easy to understand why. It has 32 rooms, although some are starting to show their age, with large beds, bureau, flat-screen TVs, air-con and no-nonsense international-style decor. There's also free airport pick-up.
City InnHOTEL$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %021-281333; www.cityinnvientiane.com; Th Pangkham; r incl breakfast 600,000-1,000,000K; naiW)
As well as offering long-term apartment stays, this place is one of the smarter midrange biz-boutique hotels in town. The contemporary lobby sets the tone for a smooth stay with the rooms exhibiting some artsy flourishes, as well as amenities galore.
oSettha Palace HotelHOTEL$$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %021-217581; www.setthapalace.com; 6 Th Pangkham; r standard/deluxe US$157/185, ste US$330; naiWs)
This stately building, set in grounds ablaze with flowers, is as graceful as it is relaxing. Fans whirr over marble floors so polished you can see your champagne glass in them, while service is impeccable. Rooms, particularly the larger deluxe ones, are also enchanting, with four-poster beds, desks and wood floors. Check out the kidney-shaped pool.
Lao Plaza HotelHOTEL$$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %021-218800; www.laoplazahotel.com; 63 Th Samsènethai; s/d US$190/215, ste US$380, all incl breakfast; naWs)
A strong choice for business travellers, this blandly designed marbled edifice boasts a vast international-style lobby and comfy rooms. Expect wi-fi, fridges, cable TV, bath-tubs and silk bedheads. There's also a great pool here (120,000K for nonguests) perfect for sun basking and escaping the heat.
Mekong Riverfront & Around
oMixay Paradise GuesthouseGUESTHOUSE$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %021-254223; [email protected]; Th François Ngin; s/d with fan & shared bathroom 90,000/100,000K, r with air-con & bathroom 130,000-150,000K; naW)
Mixay Paradise has 50 rooms with pastel-coloured walls, some of which have balconies, bathrooms and air-con. Spotless floors, a lovely lobby cafe with lime-green walls and a lift. One of the best, most hygienic budget options in the city. Safety deposit lockers cost 50,000K.
Villa ManolyGUESTHOUSE$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %021-218907; www.villa-manoly.com; off Th Fa Ngoum; r incl breakfast US$35-45; naWs)
This beautifully antiquated house, in a garden swimming in mature plants and frangipani flowers, feels like the sort of place John le Carré might ensconce himself in to write a novel, especially given its collection of vintage telephones and typewriters. Nicely furnished rooms with wood floors, air-con, en suites and bedside lamps look on to a delightful pool. It's like a boutique homestay.
Auberge Sala InpengGUESTHOUSE$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %021-242021; www.salalao.com; Th In Paeng; r incl breakfast US$25-50; naW)
Unlike anything else in the city, this vernal oasis of wood cabanas and a handsome traditional Laotian house is set in gardens spilling with tamarind and champa flowers. The grander rooms display rustic chic with bathrooms and air-con. And although the cheaper cabanas are small, they don't lack atmosphere. Meanwhile, staff are as welcoming as a slice of home.
Best Western VientianeHOTEL$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %021-216909; www.bestwesternvientiane.com; 2-12 Th François Ngin; s/d incl breakfast US$75/85; naiWs)
This gleaming hotel is a welcoming spot if you're looking for a cool, plush lobby, calm garden with pool, gym and a general sense of upscale style. There's also a tempting Asian fusion restaurant attached. Rooms, of which there are 44, are equally swanky with wood floors, snow-white linen and quality fittings.
Lao Silk HotelGUESTHOUSE$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %021-213976; www.laosilkhotel.com; Th François Ngin; r 189,000-328,000K; naW)
All 20 rooms in this sleek hotel are fragrantly fresh and well attired in stylish decor and bijou en suites. While rooms might be a little small for
a professional wrestler, the wi-fi, cable TV, air-con and general plushness make this one a winner. Downstairs is a relaxing cafe-bar to work or read in. Monthly rates are available from US$500.
Hotel Beau Rivage MekongGUESTHOUSE$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %021-243375; www.hbrm.com; Th Fa Ngoum; r incl breakfast US$47-59; naiW)
A little less romantic from the outside since the dirt track running parallel with the river was paved and denuded of trees, this pink boutique hotel still packs a punch, with superb rooms decked in bamboo screens, waffled bedspreads, high ceilings and a pleasant garden out back. All rooms are named after Lao provinces.
Intercity HotelHOTEL$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %021-242843; 24-25 Th Fa Ngoum; s/d/ste incl breakfast US$40/60/80; aiW)
While unprepossessing and dust-ridden from its river-facing exterior, within its wine-dark walls, however, is a world of mosaic floors and 46 rooms boasting traditional art and fine handicrafts. The deluxe rooms are far superior with romantic Mekong views while the standards in comparison are forgettable.
Lao Orchid HotelHOTEL$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %021-264134; www.lao-orchid-hotel.com; Th Chao Anou; d/ste incl breakfast 615,000/945,000K; aW)
An attractive, modern hotel with a swish lobby and chilled verandah cafe with a great view of the road. There are 32 welcoming rooms here with varnished wood floors, mint-fresh linen, desks, balconies, fridges and Indochinese-style furniture. Ask for a room at the front to take in the Mekong views. Good value.
oAnsara HôtelBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %021-213514; www.ansarahotel.com; off Th Fa Ngoum; r US$125-160, ste US$190-330, all incl breakfast; naiW)
Achingly beautiful Ansara is housed in a pair of colonial-chic French villas with a heavy whiff of old Indochina. There are 28 rooms set across the property, including four suites, and all are lovely, offering wooden floor, balcony, flat-screen TV, bath and refined decorations. Its alfresco dining terrace is as refined as its Gallic cuisine.
oS Park Design HotelBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %021-256339; www.sparkdesignhotel.com; 40 Th Dongnasok; r US$70-120; naiWs)
This place has some serious style on the inside. The reception will get you hooked, with a chopped-up classic Mercedes for a front desk and a vintage Vespa. It wouldn't be out of place in Hip Hotels with its contemporary look. It features 64 rooms, all with separated toilet.
THE LEGEND OF WAT SI MUANG
Legend has it that a group of sages selected the site for Wat Si Muang in 1563, when King Setthathirat moved his capital to Vientiane. Once the spot was chosen, a large hole was dug to receive the heavy stone pillar (probably taken from an ancient Khmer site nearby) that would become the lák méuang (city pillar). When the pillar arrived it was suspended over the hole with ropes. Drums and gongs were sounded to summon the townspeople to the area and everyone waited for a volunteer to jump into the hole as a sacrifice to the spirit.
Depending on who's relating it, the legend has several conclusions. What is common to all of them is that a pregnant woman named Sao Si leaped in and the ropes were released, killing her and in the process establishing the town guardianship. Variations include her leaping in upon a horse, and/or with a diminutive monk.
However, Lao scholars think that if there is any truth to this story it is likely to have occurred much earlier than Setthathirat's time, in the pre-Buddhist Mon or Khmer periods when human sacrifice was ritually practised…and that Sao Si's legendary leap might not have been her choice at all.
Around Vientiane
Villa LaoGUESTHOUSE$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %020-22217588; www.villalaos.com; off Th Nong Douang; r US$20-80; naiW)
A garden oasis about 1km west of town, Villa Lao sprawls with ferns and palms, and has 23 delightful, rustic rooms bursting with character: think wood stilts, white walls, mosquito nets and a charming communal balcony and lounge. The cheapest rooms are bare, fan-cooled and have shared bathrooms; however, all rooms are large and cool with low-lying beds.
oMandala Boutique HotelBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %021-214493; www.mandalahotel.asia; off Th Fa Ngoum; r incl breakfast US$75-100; naiW)
This super chic boutique hotel offers the city's brightest, coolest accommodation (we're talking Wallpaper rather than the Fonz). An old French villa built in the 1960s is its setting, and flashes of vivid colour and chichi flourishes such as lacquered granite floors, flat-screen TVs and dark-wood furniture blend perfectly with the aesthetic of its art-deco lines.
Green Park Boutique HotelBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %021-264097; www.greenparkvientiane.com; 248 Th Khu Vieng; r incl breakfast US$150-450; naiWs)
A real urban oasis, this charming boutique hotel exudes calm and escapism from the moment you enter its dark-wood lobby and step into its lush garden abuzz with flowers and a sparkling pool, and shaded by sugar palms and frangipani trees. Rooms are super stylish and feature hardwood floors, capacious bathrooms, couches, safety deposit boxes and step-in mosquito nets.
5Eating
For such a small capital city, Vientiane boasts a range of culinary options. The city has a wide range of global cuisine, including everything from falafel at an authentic Turkish restaurant to upscale Japanese and Korean barbecue. The streets that radiate off Th Setthathirath are vivid with smells and steam as old-school restaurants serve up fine Italian and French fare in the choicest of surroundings.
Lao food has in recent years enjoyed a real contemporary makeover with well-executed traditional dishes given a modern twist in 21st-century-style restaurants. If it's comfort food you seek, look no further than the bakeries left by the French footprint, for the city is famous for its fresh-baked baguettes and crispy croissants, with full-bodied coffee that could make the Seine glow green with envy.
For all its Gallic refinement Vientiane is equally informal; cheap food on the hop can be grabbed from street vendors dotted around the old quarter, and the impromptu braziers that fire up grilled chicken and Mekong fish on skewers. And don't miss the chance to wander through the redolent witch's broth that is Chinatown on Th Hengboun.
Thanon Setthathirath & Nam Phu
oNaked EspressoCAFE$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %020-56222269; Th Manthatourath; dishes 15,000-40,000K; h7am-5pm; aW)
One of the best-loved coffee shops in Vientiane, Naked specialises in home-grown Lao coffee and selected gourmet imports from places as diverse as Ethiopia and Indonesia. Light meals are also available, including salads and wraps, plus some impressive homemade cakes. Australian PM Malcolm Turnbull dropped by for a coffee in 2016.
JoMa Bakery CaféBAKERY$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Th Setthathirath; mains 20,000-50,000K; h7am-9pm Mon-Sat; aW)
Vientiane's most contemporary bakery has a friendly, air-con-chilled atmosphere and a cornucopia of lush salads (30,000K) and bespoke subs and bagels – choose from salami, ham, salmon, chicken, cheese and salad fillings. It also serves brownies, cake and delicious yoghurt. Comfy couches, free wi-fi, unfailing cleanliness and superb staff. New branches have recently opened in the 'burbs.
Little HanoiVIETNAMESE$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Th Fa Ngoum; mains 30,000-60,000K; h9am-11.30pm; aW)
This mercifully chilled restaurant on the waterfront is peaceful and shadowy, with wall-mounted antique drums and soft lighting that transports you to the artist quarter of its eponymous city. The menu is varied and includes Hanoi pho (Vietnamese noodle soup), spring rolls, papaya salad and fried squid in celery.
Pricco CafeCAFE$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %021-215889; Th Nokèokoummane; mains 25,000-50,000K; h8am-8pm; aW)
A popular cafe not far from the Mekong River, Pricco offers reliable comfort food, including toasted baguettes, warm ciabatta creations and open sandwiches with little treats like goat's cheese and walnuts or smoked salmon and cream cheese. Indulgent desserts, fresh fruit shakes and creative coffees complete the picture.
C
roissant d'OrBAKERY$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %021-223741; 96/1 Th Nokèokoummane; salads 20,000-40,000K; h6.30am-9pm; aW)
This simple bakery has a modest interior of umbrella-shaded lights and a cold counter of ham, salami, cheeses and salads. Its coffee packs a punch and the baguettes are fluffy.
Taj Mahal RestaurantINDIAN$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; off Th Setthathirath; meals 25,000-60,000K; h10am-10.30pm Mon-Sat, 4-10.30pm Sun; aWv)
Hidden down a side-street opposite the back of the Lao National Culture Hall, this unpretentious earthy joint dishes up fresh and lively curries (tasty chicken masala) and melt-in-your mouth naan. Portions are generous and you can sit semi alfresco. There's a good vegie selection, too (20 dishes).
iPhoVIETNAMESE$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %030-9581163; off Th Setthathirath; mains 20,000-40,000K; h7am-9pm; aW)
This hole-in-the-wall Vietnamese eatery specialises in the eponymous pho, with various meat offerings. Other dishes include regional Vietnamese specialties like bo bun Hue (spicy beef noodle soup from the city of Hue) and broken-rice dishes.
Lonely Planet Laos Page 25