CHAPTER SEVEN.
YACHT SQUADRONS ON A CRUISE--O'WIGGINS'S "POPPLE"--ARRIVAL INCHERBOURG--THE PEACE CONGRESS AND THE FRENCH CHANNEL FLEET--LIONISING ONSHORE--GROGGS LOST--HIS FIRST LOVE--AN IRATE PARENT.
A crowd of yachts might have been seen one fine morning becalmed outsidethe Needles. We were among them. We had sailed from Cowes the previousevening, but had been unable to get further, from the light winds andcalms which had prevailed. At last a breeze from the northward sprangup, and we went gayly along. It was a beautiful sight, and no one couldfail to be in good spirits as we spoke the various vessels on boardwhich we had acquaintances. The "Popple" was among them, but havingstarted first, was ahead till we came up with her, much to her owner'sdisgust. O'Wiggins entertained the idea (very common not only toyachtsmen, but to masters of vessels and seaman in general, and a veryhappy one it is) that his vessel was the fastest, the most beautiful,and the best sea-boat going.
"Ah, Hearty, old fellow, how are you?" he hailed. "You've brought anice breeze with you. We haven't had a breath of it till this minute;we shall now stand on in company." As he spoke, we observed his mastertrimming sails with the greatest care, for he saw that we were alreadyshooting past him at a great rate. We laughed, for we knew that the"Popple" was a regular slow coach, as ugly as she was slow. She hadonce, I believe, been a cutter of the old build, with a high bow, andshe was then lengthened, and had a new stern stuck on to her, and wasrigged as a schooner. As a cutter she had been considered fast; but hernew canvas was too much for her, and she could not manage to wag withit. Her copper was painted of a bright red, and she had altogether avery peculiar and unmistakable appearance. We saw O'Wiggins walking hisdeck with very impatient gestures as we shot past him. He could notmake it out; something must be the matter with the "Popple;" she was outof trim; it was the master's fault, but what was wrong was more than hecould discover. His philosophy, if he had any, was sorely tried asyacht after yacht passed him, and more than all, when every one on boardlaughed at him. The fact was, that poor O'Wiggins had done so manythings to make himself ridiculous, that every one considered him a fairsubject to exercise their merriment on. It was night before we made thelights on the French coast. First the Barfleur lights and Cape La Hogueto the south were seen, then those of Pilee and Querqueville, and lastlythe breakwater and harbour lights, and we soon after ran in by the southentrance, and anchored among the crowd of vessels of all sizes alreadyin the harbour. One by one the yachts came, and last, though not least,the "Popple" appeared, and brought up near us. O'Wiggins instantly cameon board to explain why the "Popple" had not got in first; but all wecould make out was, that she had not sailed as fast as she could becauseshe had not. We did not go on shore that night. We had amusementenough, as we walked the deck with our cigars in our mouths, in watchingthe lights on shore and afloat, and the vessels as they came glidingnoiselessly in, like dark spirits, and took up their berths whereverthey could find room, and in listening to the hails from theships-of-war, and those from the yachts' boats, as they pulled abouttrying to find their respective craft. We amused ourselves by markingthe contrasts between the voices of the two nations--the sharp shrillcry of the French, and the deep bass of John Bull.
A good deal of sea tumbled into the bay during the night, in consequenceof the fresh northerly breeze, and many an appetite was put _hors decombat_ in consequence. Poor Groggs, we heard him groaning as he lay inhis berth, "Oh, why was I tempted to cross the sea to come to thisoutlandish place, for the sake of watching a few French ships movingabout, which, I dare say, after all don't differ much from as manyEnglish ones?" He exclaimed, between the paroxysms of his agony, "Ohdear! oh dear! it's the last time I'll come yachting, that it is!" PoorGregory!--he was not the only one ill that night, I take it; and I amsure Hearty pardoned his not very grateful observations. We were earlyon deck, to inhale the fresh breeze, after the somewhat close air of thecabin; then indeed a splendid sight met our view. In the first place,floating in the bay were nine line-of-battle ships, in splendid fightingorder, their dark batteries frowning down upon us; and, drawn up inanother line, were a number of large war-steamers, besides many othersteamers, both British and French; and lastly, and no unpleasing sight,there were some seventy or eighty yachts; it was impossible to countthem--schooners, cutters, and yawls, besides some merchantmen andinnumerable small craft of every description, all so mingled togetherthat it appeared as if they would never get free of each other again.To the south was the town, with its masses of houses and churches, andits mercantile docks in front. On the west, the naval arsenal anddocks, the pride of France and Frenchmen, and which so many had come tosee. On the other side were the shores of the harbour, stretching outto Pilee Island, and not far from the town a scarped hill looking downon it, with a fine view obtainable from the top, while to the north,outside all, was the famous digue, or breakwater, which the Frenchassert eclipses that of Plymouth, as the big sea-serpent does a commonconger-eel. It was begun by Louis Fourteenth, and almost completedduring the reign of Louis Philippe; during which period it was one nightnearly washed away, while some hundred unfortunate workmen engaged on itwere in the morning not to be found! but their place being supplied, theworks were continued.
The first day nothing of public importance took place. Yachts camegliding in from all quarters, and steamers, if with less grace, at allevents with more noise, bustle, and smoke, paddled up the harbour, withtheir cargoes of felicity-hunting human beings, very sick and very fullof regrets at their folly at having left _terra firma_ to cross theunstable element. Among other English craft, the "Fun" came in withJack Mizen and a large party on board. We quickly pulled alongside towelcome our friends. The ladies had proved better sailors than most ofthe gentlemen; and though good Mrs Mizen, the chaperone of the party,had been a little put out, and still looked rather yellow about thelower extremity of the face, the young ladies, who had been cruising allthe summer, and tumbling about in all sorts of weather, had borne thepassage remarkably well, and were as frisky and full of laughter astheir dear sex are apt to be when they have every thing their own way.
We, of course, as in duty bound, undertook to escort them on shore toshow them the lions of the place. As the President was not expectedtill the evening, there was nothing particular to be done, so we hadfull time to walk about and to lionise to our heart's content. Heartytook especial charge of Laura Mizen, while the owner of the "Fun" keptFanny Farlie under his arm, and looked unutterable things into herbonnet every now and then, while Susan Simms fell to my share; forPorpoise made it a point of conscience, I believe, always to watch overthe welfare of the chaperone. It was one of his many good points.
Remember, in forming a party of pleasure, never fail to secure a man wholikes to make himself agreeable to the chaperone, or you will inevitablymake some promising youth miserable, and bore the old lady into thebargain. Groggs was the only man not paired. It was a pity the MissRullocks had not come; no blame to them, but their pa would not letthem. Mizen had brought no other gentlemen, as he had to give up allthe after-part of his craft to his fair passengers, in order to makethem comfortable.
The two gigs carried the party properly apportioned between each, and infine style we dashed up under the eyes of thousands of admiringspectators to the landing-place at the entrance of the inner basin, nowfilled with a number of yachts, which had got in there for shelter. Thehotel was, of course, full; so the ladies resolved to live on board theyacht while they remained.
Our first visit was to the dockyard, through which we were conducted bya gendarme. We were particularly struck by the large proportion ofanchors, of which, as Mizen observed, he supposed there was aconsiderable expenditure in the French fleet. The vast inner basins,yet incomplete, look like huge pits, as if excavated to discover somehidden city. There are lines of heavy batteries seaward, which woulddoubtlessly much inconvenience an approaching fleet; but as their shotwould not reach a blockading squadron, they could not prevent an enemy'sfleet
from shutting up theirs inside the breakwater, while it remainedfine, supposing such a squadron ready to convoy over a fleet oftroop-ships to the opposite shore; and were it to come on to blow, theymight be welcome to put to sea as fast as they like, and a pleasant sailto them across channel.
We went into a church where mass was being performed, and had to pay asou each for our seats; the faithful who do not like paying must kneelon the ground, which is kept in the most holy state of filth, in ordernot to tempt them to economise.
Our next visit was to the Museum. Its attractions were not great, withthe exception of some large pictures of naval combats, drawn by artistsof merit, undoubted by the citizens of Cherbourg, but who, nevertheless,had not read "James's Naval History" to any good purpose; for, by someextraordinary oversight, the English were invariably gettingtremendously thrashed (without their knowing it), and the French fleetwere, with colours flying, proudly victorious. Perhaps our historiesdiffer; for certain battles, which we consider of importance, were noteven in any way represented. Trafalgar, St. Vincent, the Nile, weretotally ignored. Porpoise said that, to show his gratitude for theattention we received, he should present them with a correct painting ofthe first-named battle.
"They'll alter the buntin', if you do, and hoist the French over theEnglish," observed Hearty. "Though they may suspect that they cannotdeceive the present generation, they hope to give their descendants anidea that they were everywhere victorious. They will boast of theirglory, even at the risk of being convicted of fibbing by theirposterity."
"They know pretty well that the easy credulity of their countrymen willallow them to go any length, in direct opposition to truth, without fearof contradiction," replied Porpoise. "Why, the greater the scrape Nap.or any of his generals got into, the more glowing and grandiloquent wastheir despatch. Depend on it that humbug has vast influence in theworld, and the French knowing it--small blame to them--they make use ofit wherever it suits their purpose."
After we had shown all the sights to be seen to our fair companions, wewere walking through the somewhat crowded streets, on our return to theboats, when by some chance we got separated from each other. We,however, managed to find our way to the rendezvous, with the exceptionof Groggs, who was not forthcoming. As he was guiltless of speaking aword of any other language than his mother-tongue, we could not leavehim to find his way by himself on board, and accordingly Porpoise and I,handing our charges into the boat, hurried off in search of him. Weagreed not to be absent more than a quarter of an hour, and away westarted, taking different routes among the crowds of women with highbutterfly muslin caps, and bearded soldiers with worsted epaulettes, andsailors totally unlike English, notwithstanding all the pains they hadtaken to imitate them. We agreed that this dissimilarity arose muchfrom the different mould in which the men are cast, and the utterimpossibility of a French tailor cutting a seaman's jacket and trouserscorrectly. They all wore braces, and though they tried to swagger alittle in imitation of the English seaman's roll, they had in appearancea very slight similarity to their intended originals.
In despair of finding Groggs among such a collection of idlers, I waswending my way back, when I was attracted by a crowd in front of theshop of a marchand d'eau de Cologne, and above the din of shrill voicesI heard one which, by its unmistakable accents, I recognised as that ofour lost companion. At the same time, Porpoise appearing some way upthe street, I beckoned him towards me, and together we worked our waythrough the grinning crowd. In the shop was a damsel with considerablepretensions to beauty, before whom, on his knees, appeared Groggs,fervently clasping her hand, while with no less fervour, and much moregesticulation, his hair was grasped by a little man, the father, wefound, of the damsel, and whose dress and highly-curled locks at oncebetrayed the peruquier, or the hair-artist, as he would probably havestyled himself.
"But I tell you, old gentleman, my intentions are most honourabletowards the lady!" exclaimed Groggs, trying to save his head from beingscalped entirely. "I tell you, sir, I have rarely seen so much beautyand excellence combined; and, if she is not displeased with myattentions, I don't see why you or any other man should interfere."
"Je suis son pere, je vous dis, et je ne permets pas de libertes avec mafille!" cried the irate Frenchman, giving another tug at his unluckylocks.
Groggs now caught sight of us, and appealed to us to save him. As weadvanced, the young lady disengaged herself from his hand and ran behindthe counter, the peruquier withdrew his clutches, and Groggs rushedforward to meet us. The Frenchman gazed at us with a fierce look ofinquiry; but the uniform Porpoise wore on the occasion, and my yachtingcostume, gained us some respect, I suppose.
"What in the name of wonder is all this about?" I exclaimed, looking atGroggs; and then turning to the Frenchman I observed, in my best Frenchand blandest tone, "that our arrival was fortunate, as I hoped instantlyto appease his wrath, and put every thing on a pleasing footing."
Groggs then, in a few words, gave us his eventful history since heparted from us. He had been attracted by the words "Eau de Cologne" inthe _affiche_ over the door, and being anxious to show how well he couldmake a purchase by himself, he had entered. Instantly struck all of aheap (as he said) by the beauty and elegant costume of the lady,forgetting all about the eau de Cologne, he endeavoured to address her.What was his delight to discover that she could speak some English!Forgetful of the quick passing of time, he stayed on, till the father,hearing a stranger talking to his daughter in a tongue he could notunderstand, made his appearance. It was at the moment that Groggs,grown bold, had seized her hand to vow eternal constancy. The lady wasnot unmoved, though somewhat amused, and not offended. It was probablynot the first time her hand had been so taken, she nothing loath; ofwhich fact her most respectable sire was doubtlessly cognisant. Topacify the irate barber, we interpreted the protestations of hishonourable intentions which Groggs was pouring out. The daughter,Mademoiselle Eulalie Sophie de Marabout, ably seconded our endeavours,by assuring her papa that the gentleman had behaved in the mostrespectful manner, nor uttered a word to offend her modest ears. Atlength we succeeded not only in appeasing the wrath of the _artiste_,but in propitiating him to such a degree that, assuring us that he feltconvinced we were most honourable gentlemen, he invited us all to a_soiree_ in his rooms over the shop that evening. Eulalie, with sweetsmiles, seconded the invitation. Groggs was delighted; and we, providedwe could manage it, consented to avail ourselves of the respectablegentleman's kindness.
We now hurried off Groggs, for the ladies were all this time waiting inthe boats; not before, however, he had whispered to Eulalie that nothingshould prevent him, at all events, from renewing the acquaintance thussomewhat inauspiciously begun. It was impossible to refrain fromtelling the story when we got on board; and had Groggs's admiration forEulalie been proof against all the raillery and banter with which he wasassailed, it would have been powerful indeed. The ladies did not openlyallude to his adventure, but they said enough to show him that they knewall about it, as he could not help discovering from an occasionalreference made to international matrimonial alliances, and theadvantages to be derived from them.
We returned on board just in time to get under way at a signal from ourrespective commodores, when the yachts of the various squadrons sailedin line outside the breakwater, under the command of the Earl of Wilton,who acted as admiral of the fleet. We formed in two columns, andperformed a number of evolutions--we flattered ourselves, in the mostcreditable manner--and then we re-entered the harbour, and, running downthe French line in gallant style, took up our stations again accordingto signal. Our hearts swelled with pride, and we felt very grandindeed, only wishing that each of our little craft were seventy-four orone hundred and twenty gun ships, and that the French fleet were whatthey were. O'Wiggins's yacht was the only one continually out of line,or somewhere where she ought not to have been. This was owing partly tohis imagining that he knew more about the matter than the commodore orany one else, and partly t
o the bad sailing of his craft.
Mizen invited us four bachelors to spend the evening on board the "Fun,"and the attractions of our fair friends proved stronger than those heldout by Mademoiselle Eulalie. There was an addition to our party in theperson of O'Wiggins, who invited himself on board, and served as anassistant laughing-stock to poor Groggs. There was, consequently, abond of union between the two--similar to that of two donkeys in a cart,both being lashed with the same whip. In the course of the eveningO'Wiggins heard of Groggs's adventure, and, clapping him on hisshoulder, assured him that he would take care it should not be his faultif he lost the lady.
We had all day been waiting in expectation of the arrival of thePresident, every craft being decked out with flags, and every gun loadedto do him honour. At the hour he was expected, enthusiasm was at itsheight; but as time drew on, it waxed colder and colder. People hadcome from far and wide to see a sight which was not to be seen; they hadexpended their time and money, and had a right to complain. Complain,therefore, they did, ashore and afloat; and had it at that time been putto the vote whether he should longer remain President, I fear he wouldinstantly have been shorn of his honours.
At last the bright luminary of day sank behind the dockyard, thecommodores of the English craft fired the sunset gun, the flags werehauled down, and night came on. We had begun to fancy that thePresident's carriage must have broken down or been upset, or that he wasnot coming at all, when a gun was heard, and then another, followed bysuch a flashing and blazing and banging of artillery and muskets andcrackers and rockets that we could have no doubt that the great man hadindeed arrived.
Thus ended our first day at Cherbourg.
The Cruise of the Frolic Page 7