*****
In his cabin Sam again lay awake questioning his life. Maura’s unique, he thought. He enjoyed listening to her stories, sharing her enthusiasm, seeing life through her eyes. Witnessing the excitement and wonder of nature—it was enticing, refreshing. New to him, this sharing of experiences together with a true sense of joy. His life had been one obligation after another to further his career. But he wasn't prepared for this and it took him off guard. He was torn. He didn't want involvement. It's too late. It's too late, he thought. Can’t involve anyone at this point. I’m not being honest with her and I can’t do that. Need to cool things off. Can’t have her thinking we could make something of this. Too complicated. Too late.
Next morning he held strong to his change of heart. At breakfast he’d tell her he needed more time to himself. Perhaps tell her he was working on a new script or something. Yet when Maura entered the dining room and smiled at him, his heart softened and he knew it was futile. She sat down. Sam smiled. He was genuinely glad to see her again. When they were together he realized how much he missed her when she wasn’t around.
“Hubbard Glacier today,” said Andre, their waiter as he poured fresh coffee. “The weather looks good; I checked the forecast not too long ago. But it’ll be chilly out on the decks. Wear your warmest clothes. And don’t forget binoculars and cameras. This glacier is spectacular. It’s my favorite.”
The Explorer North sailed into Yakutat Bay enroute to Disenchantment Bay and the Hubbard Glacier. Contrary to most of Alaska’s glaciers the Hubbard is advancing. Entering Disenchantment Bay the ship plowed through small bits of ice. As they sailed across the bay the bergs gradually grew in number and size. Soon, the ship maneuvered around good-sized icebergs as they approached a safe distance from the massive wall of ice.
As most passengers on deck Sam and Maura bundled up in their warmest clothes. No intention of sitting this one out. They watched seals pop up from the frigid water to flip themselves up onto an iceberg and occasionally a seal pup sat perched atop an ice raft.
“Andre was right on the mark,” said Sam as the ship idled before the glacier’s face. “This is awesome. Might be fun to kayak here. A bit risky. You’d have to be pretty alert with all this ice bouncing around.”
“It’s magic,” smiled Maura as she moved about taking pictures.
The weather proved better than predicted. Shafts of light poured through clouds creating a dramatic scene. Soon, the clouds dissolved and the light on the massive face of the glacier and surrounding icebergs and flows was stunning. Captain Antonsen announced the ship would maneuver slowly through the ice and get some close-up views.
Since it began advancing the Hubbard at times advanced at a quick clip, glacially speaking. In fact, it acquired the nickname, galloping glacier. Stretching some 76 miles from its genesis on the slopes of Canada’s Mt. Logan in Kluane National Park, the glacier actively calves into Disenchantment Bay. The face is a massive wall of ice over six miles across and 400 feet above water level. It’s the most active glacier calving massive chunks of ice making thunderous sounds called white thunder.
“I know the captain said we’ll keep a safe distance from the glacier,” said Maura, “but we seem so close. Though I’m sure we must be miles away. Distance is difficult to judge on the water.”
Just then a huge block of ice broke away from the wall and plunged into the bay. Sam thrilled at the sight. “Unnerving sound. Frighteningly awesome.” They watched with awe the wake made from the chunk of ice when it bounced back to the surface.
That evening at dinner Sam and Maura reflected on the spectacular day at Hubbard Glacier. The field of icebergs. Plentiful seals and the wee pups propped up on their ice shelves. The air flowing off the glacier colder than they’d experienced on the whole trip. Maura remarked how good it felt to be warm again.
“As if today wasn’t exciting enough tomorrow we’ll be in the icy wonderland of Glacier Bay. We’ll have our fill of glaciers before departing for Victoria. Have you ever been to Victoria, Sam?” Maura didn’t wait for an answer. “I’ve close friends there. Of course they knew I was coming. When I talked to them in Seward they offered to show us around and have dinner together. They've a great home with a fantastic view of the Strait of Juan de Fuca. You'll like them. Katie teaches the history of film at the university. And they’re both involved with Victoria’s film festival. You'll have lots to talk about.”
“No, uh, sorry, no,” grumbled Sam. “I'm not making any plans that far ahead. You know I don’t like the tourist stuff.”
Before Maura could attempt reasoning with Sam, Andre walked over to their table, “It’s hard to believe we’re on the last leg of this trip. The Hubbard was spectacular, yes?”
The three talked about the whole journey and what they cherished most. Then Sam asked Andre how many days they’d be out at sea on their way to Victoria.
“Two and a half days after we leave Glacier Bay. We spend an entire day and evening in Victoria. It’s a terrific little city. We depart at night and by morning we’re docked in Vancouver again. I’m going to miss you two.” Andre added, “Don’t lose contact with each other. You make a good couple.”
They were quiet for a few moments then Maura continued talking about Victoria but Sam’s thoughts were elsewhere as he mumbled something about never leaving Alaska. Recovering from his wandering thoughts he looked over at Maura and with a burst of excitement blurted out, “Want to live up here? Wouldn't you like to live a real life? A pioneer? Live with gusto, close to nature? Out in the elements all the time. The sea at your doorstep. How about Sitka? Your favorite town, right?” He pressed closer, taking her hand. “Maura, I …” but his voice trailed off.
Maura hesitated a few moments. “Though I've never considered it,” she answered carefully, “I don't think so. But I do love being near the sea, it has an alluring quality that draws me in, mesmerizes me. Even when it’s rough it calms me. To a point, of course. And being on a big ship helps.” She paused. “I’ll visit you, Sam. Often. That’s a promise. Sitka would be wonderful.”
“Fair enough,” a quiet voice answered. His enthusiasm waned. They spent some time on the aft deck but Sam’s thoughts were snarled in another place. He walked Maura to her cabin and then walked the decks till he, too, retired.
Passage to Alaska Page 4