by Anissa Helou
3. Heat the olive oil in a skillet over medium-high heat. Add the onion and cook until soft and lightly golden, about 5 minutes. Add the garlic and sauté for another minute or so. Add the mashed eggplants and season with salt and pepper to taste. Cook for another 5 minutes, stirring occasionally. Take off the heat and let cool.
4. Stir the strained yogurt into the cooled mixture. Transfer to a serving dish. Drizzle with the saffron water and sprinkle the chopped walnuts all over. Serve with the bread.
Yogurt and Elephant Garlic Dip
MAST-O MUSIR
IRAN
Yogurt is always served as a refreshing side with curries, kebabs, rice, or baked kibbeh, either plain or with a garnish. Here it is mixed with rehydrated dried elephant garlic (known as musir in Farsi) to produce a rather pungent side to serve with kebabs. In kebab restaurants in Iran, you just order the kebab you want then go to a buffet laid on the side to help yourself to yogurt with musir or cucumbers, fresh herbs, and crudités before returning to your table to wait for your kebabs to be served with rice.
SERVES 4 TO 6
3½ ounces (100 g) dried Persian elephant garlic
2 cups (500 g) yogurt
Sea salt and finely ground black pepper
Iranian Flatbread
1. Put the garlic in a small pot. Add water to cover and bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat to low and let simmer for 20 minutes. Drain and rinse under cold water. Spread over a clean kitchen towel to dry. Finely chop the garlic.
2. Put the yogurt in a bowl. Add the chopped garlic. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Serve slightly chilled with the bread.
Yogurt and Cucumber Dip
MAST-O KHIYAR
Here is the cucumber variation of the Yogurt and Elephant Garlic Dip.
SERVES 4 TO 6
2 cups (500 g) goat or Greek yogurt
1 clove garlic, minced to a fine paste
3 tablespoons dried mint, plus more for garnish
3 Armenian cucumbers, coarsely grated and drained
Sea salt
Mix the yogurt, garlic, and dried mint. Add the cucumber and season with salt to taste. Taste and adjust the seasoning. Transfer to a serving bowl. Garnish with a little dried mint and serve.
Azerbaijani Yogurt Soup
DOVGA
AZERBAIJAN
You can turn this soup into a summery dish by omitting the meatballs and chilling the soup once it has cooled down. When served cold, dovga is usually offered at the end of a rich meal, a little like a palate cleanser. And when served hot, it is usually offered as a first course, or even a light meal.
SERVES 4
7 ounces (200 g) lean ground lamb
Sea salt and finely ground black pepper
½ cup (100 g) dried chickpeas, soaked overnight in plenty of water with ½ teaspoon baking soda
4 cups (1 kg) Greek yogurt
1 organic egg
¼ cup (50 g) short-grain rice, rinsed and drained
1 ounce (30 g) fresh chervil, most of the bottom stems discarded, finely chopped
1 ounce (30 g) fresh cilantro, most of the bottom stems discarded, finely chopped
1 ounce (30 g) fresh dill, most of the bottom stems discarded, finely chopped
1 ounce (30 g) fresh mint, leaves stripped off the stems, finely chopped
1 ounce (30 g) fresh flat-leaf parsley, most of the bottom stems discarded, finely chopped
Handful of spinach leaves, thinly sliced
2 sprigs celery tops, finely chopped
2 mini leeks, thinly sliced
1. Put the lamb in a bowl and season with salt and pepper to taste (see Note). Mix well and shape into tiny meatballs, the size of large marbles. Keep in the fridge to firm them up.
2. Drain and rinse the soaked chickpeas. Put in a pot with water to cover and bring to a boil over medium heat. Reduce the heat to medium-low, cover and simmer for 45 minutes, or until tender but not mushy. Drain well.
3. Put the yogurt in a heavy pot. Add the egg and mix well. Add 2 cups (500 ml) water and the rice and bring to a boil over medium heat, stirring all the time. Add the chopped herbs, spinach, celery tops, leeks, and the chickpeas and bring back to a boil, stirring all the time.
4. Gently stir in the meatballs. Reduce the heat to low and let bubble very gently, stirring frequently, for 10 to 15 minutes, or until the rice and meat are done. Take off the heat and add salt to taste. Serve the soup hot or warm.
Rice, Grains, Pasta & Legumes
EATING RICE
* * *
MAACHEY BHAATEY BANGAALE
—AN OLD BENGALI SAYING
DELICATELY SHEATHED,
WRAPPED
IN PAPERY HUSK—
I LOVE THE FEEL AND
ELEGANCE OF LONG SLENDER
RICE GRAINS—
THEIR SEDUCTION
AND CHARM,
THEIR AROMA AND SHAPE—
THEIR FINE FLAVOR
AND
THE DEEP VIRGIN TASTE.
—SUDEEP SEN
Rice is the most important crop in the world, with more than three billion people relying on it as a staple. Muslims may have first learned about rice from the Persians of the Sassanid empire when they defeated them in 635. Or they could have learned about rice in the Indian Sind province, which they conquered in 711. In either case, Muslims were growing rice more or less throughout the territories they had conquered and ruled over by the year 1000. Until then, wheat had been their staple, and you still find a noticeable division among Muslim countries between those relying on grain—such as Turkey, Lebanon, Syria, Jordan, and Egypt—and those that rely mostly on rice and/or noodles—such as the Arabian Gulf, Iran, India, Pakistan, and Northern China.
Long-grain rice is the preferred type in Iran, Afghanistan, the Arabian Gulf, India, and Pakistan, while short-grain is favored by Malaysians, Indonesians, and Levantines. Rice was first grown in China and from there it was taken to countries like India and Sri Lanka. It is reputed to have been brought to West Asia and Greece in 300 BC by the army of Alexander the Great.
Wheat, on the other hand, was the first crop to be domesticated in the Fertile Crescent, a region that encompasses Turkey, Lebanon, Syria, and Jordan. It is of course milled to produce flour for bread, but it is also used whole in both sweet and savory dishes, and it is parboiled and cracked to produce bulgur, which for a long time was the “rice” of that region. And in the spring, some of it is harvested green and burned in the fields to produce frikeh. Most of North Africa has couscous as a main staple after bread. Legumes are one of the most ancient foods. They’re eaten throughout the Muslim world, and chickpeas and lentils are essential ingredients in most Muslim countries. As for pasta, it is mostly in the form of dumplings, dough cooked in a meat and vegetable sauce like in marguga, or vermicelli cooked with rice.
The recipes I have included in this chapter are mostly for main courses, although there are a few for side dishes.
Slow-Cooked Biryani
DUMPUKHT BIRYANI
INDIA
Dumpukht in Lucknow or dumpokht in Hyderabad describes a way of slow-cooking in an airtight pot (handi), which can be earthenware or metal. The word comes from the Persian—dum meaning “breathe in” and pukht meaning “to cook.” The method is traditionally associated with the Awadh region of India, once ruled by the Muslim Nawabs with the origins of dumpukht assigned to the reign of Nawab Asaf Udd-Daulah, who ruled from 1748 to 1797.
I learned to make this biryani in the garden of Begum Mirza (Begum is a title given to noble-women deriving from the word Bey, the title given to noblemen) in Hyderabad, and even though the Begum was quite old and not so mobile, she had organized a perfect mise en place and was very precise and attentive to details as she proceeded through each step of the biryani. Begum Mirza used mutton, which means goat in India, saying it is the preferred meat there; but goat in India seems to be a lot more tender than goat in England or even America, so I am suggesting lamb. As I watched the Begu
m cover the raw marinated meat with the uncooked rice, I wondered how the meat was going to cook in the same time as the rice. She assured me it would, explaining that the green papaya she had added to the meat marinade was a natural tenderizer. The Begum also did something very interesting at the very end. She took a piece of charcoal and held it with tongs over the gas fire. When it started turning into a glowing ember, she put it in with the rice to give it a smoky flavor. I had never seen anything like it done before. She didn’t leave it for too long, just a few minutes to smoke the biryani. As she scooped the biryani out of the pot and onto the serving platter, I was surprised to see that both rice and meat had cooked perfectly. Then, when I started eating, I found the meat to be very tender and the rice wonderfully fragrant, having absorbed the flavors of the subtle marinade as well as the smoky flavor of the burning piece of charcoal. Perfectly exquisite.
SERVES 6 TO 8
FOR THE MARINATED MEAT
4 small onions (14 ounces/400 g total), grated on the fine side of a grater
1 tablespoon finely minced green papaya
Seeds from 2 black cardamom pods
1 tablespoon black peppercorns
1 teaspoon cumin seeds
6 whole cloves
Good pinch of saffron threads
2¼ pounds (1 kg) boneless lamb shoulder or leg, cut into medium chunks
Sea salt
2 cups (500 g) yogurt
FOR THE BIRYANI
2½ cups (500 g) long-grain rice, soaked for 15 minutes in lightly salted water
2 cups (500 g) yogurt
Sea salt
½ cup (125 g) ghee or unsalted butter, melted, plus 2 tablespoons (30 g), melted, for the rice
½ cup (125 ml) whole milk
1. To marinate the meat: Mix the onions, green papaya, and spices in a large bowl. Add the meat and season with salt to taste (see Note). Mix well. Add the yogurt, mix again, and let marinate for at least 2 hours, preferably longer.
2. To make the biryani: Drain and rinse the rice and put in a bowl. Add the yogurt, ⅔ cup water (160 ml), and salt to taste.
3. Put the marinated meat in the bottom of a large pot. Pour the ½ cup melted ghee over the meat. Add the rice and 1 cup (250 ml) water. Wrap the lid with a clean kitchen towel and place over the pot. Wrapping the lid stops the steam from the rice from falling back, which keeps the rice fluffy and the grains separate. Place the pot over medium-high heat and bring to a boil, for about 5 minutes. Reduce the heat to low and let simmer gently for 20 minutes.
4. Uncover the pan and sprinkle the 2 tablespoons melted ghee over the rice, along with the milk. Place the lid back over the pan and cook for another 15 minutes, or until the meat is completely tender and the rice has absorbed all the liquid and is tender and fluffy. Serve immediately.
Hyderabadi Biryani
INDIA
Also known as katchi biryani, this is quite different from the Dumpukht Biryani, which is also from Hyderabad. Here, the meat is cooked and the rice parboiled before being combined, whereas in the dumpukht version, the meat and rice cook together (which works surprisingly well). This biryani is very close to the Persian polows, although in Iran, the meat is usually layered in between the rice and not buried underneath it. This and most other biryanis make perfect one-pot meals that are fairly simple to prepare. They also have the advantage of keeping well if left over very low heat until you are ready to serve them.
SERVES 6 TO 8
Good pinch of saffron threads
½ cup (125 ml) whole milk
FOR THE MARINATED MEAT
½ cup (125 ml) vegetable oil
4 medium onions (1 pound 5 ounces/600 g total), halved and cut into thin wedges
1 inch (2.5 cm) fresh ginger, peeled and finely minced
6 cloves garlic, minced to a fine paste
1 tablespoon finely minced green papaya
2¼ pounds (1 kg) boneless lamb shoulder or leg, cut into medium chunks
10 mild green chilies, seeded and pureed
¼ bunch cilantro (2 ounces/50 g), most of the bottom stems discarded, finely chopped
A few sprigs fresh mint, leaves stripped off the stems, finely chopped
1 teaspoon Indian Biryani Masala
2 cups (500 g) yogurt
Juice of 3 limes
Sea salt
FOR THE BIRYANI
Sea salt
3¼ cups (650 g) long-grain rice, soaked for 30 minutes in lightly salted water, drained
2 tablespoons (30 g) ghee or unsalted butter, melted
1. Put the saffron to steep in the milk.
2. To marinate the meat: Heat the oil in a large skillet over medium heat. Add the onions and fry, stirring regularly, until golden brown, about 10 minutes. Let cool slightly, then puree in a food processor.
3. Mix the ginger, garlic, and papaya in a large bowl. Add the meat and mix well. Let sit for about 15 minutes—the green papaya acts as a tenderizer. Add the onion puree, green chili puree, cilantro, mint, masala, yogurt, lime juice, and salt to taste. Let the meat marinate for at least 2 hours, preferably longer in the refrigerator.
4. To make the biryani: Bring 4 quarts (4 liters) water to a boil in a large pot over high heat. Add 4 tablespoons sea salt and the drained rice. Bring back to a boil and let the rice boil for 3 minutes, or until the hard core is just softened. Drain in a colander and rinse under cold water. Let the rice drain off any excess water while you start cooking the meat.
5. Put the meat and the marinade in a large pot and place over medium-high heat. Cook, stirring constantly, until the yogurt starts bubbling. Add 1 cup (250 ml) water and bring back to a boil. Reduce the heat to very low and spread the parboiled rice over the meat. Cover the pan with the lid wrapped in a clean kitchen towel to make sure it fits snugly over the biryani. Let steam for 30 minutes, then sprinkle the saffron milk and melted ghee over the rice. Cover the pan again, and let steam for another 15 minutes, until the meat is done and the rice is very fluffy.
6. Transfer the meat and rice to a serving platter without mixing them so you have different colors. Serve immediately.
Awadhi Biryani
INDIA
Awadhi cuisine was developed in Lucknow during the time of the Nawabs, who ruled the state of Awadh from 1722 to 1856, when the last Nawab was imprisoned by the Company of India before being sent into exile in Calcutta (or Kolkota as it is now known). The Nawabs were fine gourmets, and their cooks, known as bawarchis, prepared incredibly refined dishes. They also invented the dum method of cooking, where dishes were completely sealed in their terra-cotta cooking pots and placed over a low fire to cook slowly. This biryani is one of the glories of this cuisine and the rice is made more interesting by being cooked in spiced water before being layered with the cooked meat.
SERVES 4 TO 6
FOR THE MARINATED MEAT
2 medium onions (10½ ounces/300 g total), finely chopped
1 inch (2.5 cm) fresh ginger, peeled and finely minced
3 cloves garlic, minced to a fine paste
1 teaspoon ground coriander
1 teaspoon Kashmiri chili powder
1 teaspoon Garam Masala 1
Juice of 1 lime
1 cup (250 g) yogurt
1 pound 2 ounces (500 g) boneless lamb shoulder or leg, cut into medium chunks
Sea salt
FOR THE RICE
2½ cups (500 g) basmati rice
1 cinnamon stick
3 black cardamom pods
3 green cardamom pods
6 black peppercorns
6 whole cloves
1 teaspoon fennel seeds
4 cups (1 liter) boiling water
5 tablespoons (75 g) ghee or unsalted butter
Good pinch of saffron threads
TO FINISH
3 tablespoons (45 g) ghee or unsalted butter
3 medium onions (1 pound/450 g total), finely chopped
2 green cardamom pods, smashed
Good pinch of saffron threads
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br /> ½ cup (125 ml) milk, heated
1 teaspoon kewra (pandanus flower extract)
1. To marinate the meat: Put the onions, ginger, garlic, spices, lime juice, and yogurt in a large bowl and mix well. Add the lamb and salt to taste and mix again. Let marinate for at least 2 hours, preferably longer in the refrigerator.
2. To make the rice: Rinse the rice under cold water, then soak it for 1 hour in lightly salted water. Meanwhile, put the whole spices in a large heatproof measuring cup and add the boiling water. Let sit until it is time to use with the rice.
3. Melt the ghee or butter in a pot over medium heat. Drain the rice, add to the pot, and sauté for a couple of minutes. Add the saffron and strain the spice water over the rice. Bring to a boil, then reduce the heat to low, cover, and let simmer for 10 minutes. Take off the heat. Wrap the lid with a clean kitchen towel and replace over the pot. Let steam while you cook the meat.
4. To finish: Combine the ghee, onions, and cardamom pods in a pot and place over medium heat. Sauté until the onions are soft and translucent, about 3 minutes. Add the marinated lamb and sauté the meat for a few minutes. Then reduce the heat to low, cover the pot, and let the lamb cook slowly for 30 minutes, or until tender.
5. Meanwhile, put the saffron in a small bowl. Add the hot milk and the kewra and let infuse until you are ready to use it.
6. When the meat is done, take off the heat unless the sauce is too runny, in which case increase the heat to high and boil hard until the excess liquid has evaporated. You want the sauce to be very thick and rather dry.
7. Take a clean pot large enough to hold both the rice and meat. Spread one-quarter of the rice over the bottom. Lay one-third of the meat over the rice. Repeat this layering two more times, finishing with rice. Sprinkle the saffron-infused milk over the rice. Wrap the lid of the pot with a clean kitchen towel and place over the pot. Place over very low heat and let steam for about 30 minutes. Serve immediately.