by Anissa Helou
10. Pour the butter and the remaining saffron water over the rice. Wrap the lid in a clean kitchen towel. Cover the pot tightly and leave over medium heat for 4 minutes. Then reduce the heat to very low and let the rice steam for 50 minutes to 1 hour, until it forms a perfect crust (known as tah-dig).
11. Just as the rice is about to be ready, prepare some iced water in your sink. Take the pan off the heat and dip the bottom in the iced water to loosen the crust. Mix the rice a little in the pan, fluffing it up, then spoon it onto a serving platter, taking care not to disturb the tah-dig. Scatter the reserved nuts all over. Remove the tah-dig from the pan and break it into medium pieces. Arrange them around the rice and serve hot.
NOTE: You can also use ½ cup (75 g) dried orange peel, which you can find in Persian stores.
Festive Sweet-Savory Rice
MUTTHANJAN PULAU
PAKISTAN
Here is the Pakistani/Indian version of the Persian Jeweled Rice. Persian cuisine is the mother cuisine of the Muslim world—the Abbasid Caliphs who oversaw the expansion of their empire favored Persian chefs and had them in their court as well as wherever they invaded, expanding the influence of Persian cooks far and wide, both eastward and westward. Of course, recipes changed over the centuries and some are completely different from how they started, sometimes only keeping the name and sometimes losing this too. Mutthanjan has the sweet-savory element of jeweled rice although it is actually sweeter and headier as far as seasonings are concerned. It also has added meat. It is a very festive dish, served at special occasions, such as Eid and weddings, and can be made much sweeter, but I prefer a subtle combination of sweet and savory. Many people do away with the meat to make it as a sweet, but it was traditionally made with meat, so I am sticking to tradition.
SERVES 6 TO 8
FOR THE MILK/ALMOND MIXTURE
4 cups (1 liter) whole milk
½ cup (75 g) ground almonds
FOR THE SAFFRON MILK/KEWRA INFUSION
Good pinch of saffron threads
2 tablespoons whole milk
2 tablespoons kewra (pandanus flower extract)
FOR THE LAMB AND STOCK
1 pound 10 ounces (750 g) boneless lamb shoulder or leg, cut into medium chunks
8 whole cloves
4 green cardamom pods
1 black cardamom pod
1 cinnamon stick
¼ nutmeg
1 teaspoon black peppercorns
2 bay leaves
2 shards of blade mace
1 medium onion (5 ounces/150 g), quartered
4 cloves garlic, peeled but whole
Sea salt
1 tablespoon ghee or unsalted butter
¼ cup (60 ml) vegetable oil
2 medium onions (10½ ounces/300 g total), halved and cut into thin wedges
½ inch (1 cm) fresh ginger, peeled and finely chopped
½ cup (125 g) yogurt, whisked
1 teaspoon garam masala
1 teaspoon ground coriander
½ teaspoon cayenne pepper
FOR THE RICE
2½ cups (500 g) long-grain rice, soaked for 30 minutes in lightly salted water
1 tablespoon ghee
Sea salt
FOR THE MUTTHANJAN
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
⅔ cup (100 g) golden raisins, soaked for a couple hours in cold water and drained
⅓ cup (50 g) pistachios, soaked for a couple hours in cold water and drained
½ to 1 cup (50 to 100 g) powdered sugar, to taste
Juice of 2 limes
FOR THE MEATBALLS
9 ounces (250 g) lean ground lamb, from the shoulder or leg
2 tablespoons chana dal (split yellow peas), soaked for 1 hour in cold water and drained
½ teaspoon cayenne pepper
Sea salt
2 to 3 green chilies, seeded and very thinly sliced
Vegetable oil, for frying
Edible gold leaves
1. To make the milk/almond mixture: Put the milk in a medium nonstick saucepan and bring to a boil over medium-low heat—be careful not to let it boil over—then reduce the heat to very low and let the milk bubble very gently, stirring regularly, until it has reduced by three-quarters and has become quite thick and slightly golden. This will take about 1 hour. Add the ground almonds and mix well.
2. For the saffron milk/kewra infusion: Put the saffron in a small bowl. Add the milk and kewra and let infuse while you prepare the rest of the dish.
3. To prepare the lamb and stock: Put the lamb in a large pot. Add 5¼ cups (1.25 liters) water. Tie 4 cloves, the whole spices, onion, and garlic in cheesecloth and add to the pot along with salt to taste. Bring to a boil over medium-high heat, skimming any froth from the surface. Reduce the heat to medium and let bubble gently for 1 hour, or until the meat is tender. Strain the stock (discard the cheesecloth bag). Set the meat aside and keep hot. Measure out 2½ cups (625 ml) stock and place in a large pot.
4. Heat the ghee and remaining 4 cloves in a small pan over medium heat. Sauté until fragrant. Add to the stock. Set the pot of stock aside.
5. Heat the vegetable oil in a large skillet over medium heat. Add the onions and sauté until lightly golden. Add the lamb, ginger, yogurt, garam masala, coriander, and cayenne and cook, stirring regularly, and adding a couple of tablespoons water, for 10 to 15 minutes, or until the meat has browned and the sauce is reduced. Set aside.
6. To cook the rice: Drain the rice and add to the reserved stock in the pot. Bring to a boil over medium heat. Add the ghee and salt if necessary and reduce the heat to low. Cook the rice for 10 minutes, or until it has absorbed all the stock and is barely tender. Take off the heat. Wrap the lid with a clean kitchen towel and replace over the pot.
7. To put the mutthanjan together: Pour the oil into a large pot and spread half the lamb over the bottom. Cover the meat with one-third of the rice. Spread half the milk/almond mixture over the rice. Top with the remaining lamb, half the drained raisins and pistachios. Sprinkle half the sugar and lime juice and cover with another one-third of the rice. Spread the remaining milk/almond mixture over the rice, then the remaining raisins, pistachios, sugar, and lime juice. Cover with the last of the rice. Sprinkle the saffron milk/kewra infusion all over the top. Wrap the lid of the pot with a clean kitchen towel, cover, and place the pot over medium-high heat. Leave for 3 minutes, then reduce the heat to very low and let the rice steam for 20 to 30 minutes, or until it is steaming hot and completely tender.
8. Meanwhile, to make the meatballs: Put the ground meat and chana dal in a medium skillet and add ½ cup (125 ml) water. Place over medium heat and season with the cayenne and salt to taste. Cook for 20 to 30 minutes, until the dal is completely tender and the water has evaporated. Transfer to a food processor and process to a fine paste. Transfer to a medium mixing bowl and add the sliced chilies. Mix well using your hands.
9. Lightly wet your hands and shape the meat into small meatballs. Place a medium skillet over medium heat and pour in enough oil to cover the bottom. Add the meatballs and sauté until browned, about 3 minutes.
10. Transfer the rice and lamb chunks to a serving platter. Press the sautéed meatballs into the rice all around the edges leaving the center plain. Lay a piece of gold leaf over each meatball and dot a few pieces of gold leaf in the middle of the rice. Serve hot.
Indonesian Yellow Rice
NASI KUNING
INDONESIA
When nasi kuning is served at special occasions, it is pressed into a cone and inverted on the plate and as such it is called tumpeng. The cone of yellow rice is served surrounded with a selection of vegetable, meat, and/or fish dishes as well as the obligatory crackers. Nasi kuning is not only reserved for special meals. I have had it for breakfast in Ambon, in the living room of a street vendor who had set up her stall on her porch—there are many places like hers in Indonesia with vendors cooking their specialty in their kitchen, then setting up their stall on their porch and selling
the food from there. Customers either take the food away wrapped in paper lined with banana leaf to insulate it or they eat it in the vendor’s living room off plastic plates. Some rooms are converted into mini restaurants with tables or counters along the wall and chairs, while others are left exactly as when the family uses them with customers sitting on the cook’s sofas and using the coffee tables to rest their plates on—it’s a wonderful way to eat and communicate with the other diners. I found Indonesian people to be among the most charming and gentle people I have met on my travels and it was never a problem talking with anyone, provided they spoke English, that is; or if I happened to be with someone who could translate, which fortunately was most of the time. Serve with either of the fish curries (Indonesian Fish Head Curry and Indonesian Fish Curry).
SERVES 4 TO 6
2½ cups (500 g) Thai jasmine rice
1 cup (250 ml) coconut cream
½ inch (1 cm) fresh turmeric, grated on the fine side of a grater
2 teaspoons ground coriander
1 teaspoon lemon juice
Sea salt
1. Rinse the rice under cold water. Drain and put in a medium pot.
2. Mix together the coconut cream, turmeric, and coriander in a large mixing bowl, then add to the rice. Add the lemon juice and 1½ cups (375 ml) water. Season with salt to taste and bring to a boil over medium heat.
3. Reduce the heat to low and simmer for 10 to 15 minutes, or until the rice is tender and the liquid fully absorbed. Serve hot.
Indonesian Fried Rice
NASI GORENG
INDONESIA
Nasi goreng is Indonesian fried rice, flavored with chili sambal, shrimp paste, kecap manis (sweet Indonesian soy sauce), and palm sugar. You can add what you want to the rice, but traditionally it is made simply with scallions and fresh chilies and served for breakfast with a fried egg. It is incredibly addictive and I couldn’t have enough when I was in Indonesia. I got so used to their savory breakfasts that could have easily been lunch or dinner that I had to make myself some once I was back home! The rice Indonesians like to use is fragrant jasmine, but you can also use basmati. You could turn this nasi goreng into a full one-pot meal by adding shredded chicken, or shrimp or strips of beef or lamb. Count on 7 ounces (200 g) of meat and sauté it before adding the egg and adjusting the seasonings at the end.
SERVES 2
¼ cup (60 ml) vegetable oil
1 tablespoon shrimp paste (terasi)
4 cloves garlic, minced to a fine paste
2 organic eggs, beaten
1 cup (200 g) Thai jasmine rice, boiled in twice the amount of water until tender and the liquid fully absorbed
1 tablespoon kecap manis (Indonesian sweet soy sauce)
2 green chilies, seeded and thinly sliced (optional)
1 bunch scallions (2 ounces/50 g), thinly sliced
3 tablespoons Chili and Tomato Sambal, plus more for serving
Sea salt and finely ground black pepper
FOR THE EGG GARNISH
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
2 organic eggs
Sea salt
Chili pepper flakes
1. Heat the oil in a wok or a deep skillet over medium heat. Add the shrimp paste and sauté for a minute or so. Transfer to a small plate. Add the garlic to the pan and cook for a couple of minutes, or until golden, making sure you do not let it burn. Add the beaten eggs and let them cook undisturbed a little as if it were a frittata, then start stirring them to break them up in pieces. You want the egg to brown on the bottom to release the aroma, as William Wongso, Indonesia’s foremost celebrity chef, explained to me. Remove half the egg to a plate.
2. Add half the rice to the egg remaining in the pan (this is being done a half at a time because if you overpack the pan, the rice will not fry properly). Stir for a couple of minutes until the rice starts to heat up and toast a little. Add ½ tablespoon of the kecap manis and mix until it is completely blended with the rice. Add half the shrimp paste and mix well. By now, the rice should have turned a lovely golden reddish brown color.
3. Add half the chilies (if using) and half the scallions and mix until they are well blended. Add half the sambal and mix well. Taste before adding salt and pepper to taste. Remove to a plate and keep hot while you fry the remaining rice in the same way. Then add the already fried rice to the pan and keep on a very low flame while you fry the eggs for the garnish.
4. To make the egg garnish: Heat the oil in a small skillet over medium heat. When the oil is hot, break the eggs into the pan and fry for 3 to 4 minutes, or until the edges are crisp and the white is done but the yolk still runny. Season the eggs with salt and a light sprinkling of pepper flakes.
5. To serve, transfer the fried rice to a serving platter. Place the fried egg garnish over the rice and serve with more chili sambal for those who want to have more.
Azerbaijani Sweet-Savory Rice
SUDLU PLOV
AZERBAIJAN
This is another interesting sweet-savory rice, this time from Azerbaijan, where they cook the rice in milk and flavor it with saffron, dark raisins, and dates. My nephew happened to marry an Azerbaijani girl and we all went to their lavish wedding reception in Baku, which they followed the next day with an equally lavish lunch, with a huge buffet of all kinds of Azerbaijani dishes that reminded me of what people ate in the ’50s, with half the dishes drowning in commercial mayonnaise. Somehow, they didn’t think it would be more interesting to have local dishes rather than Soviet dishes and I wish they’d had this rice with a whole roast lamb and a few salads instead of the rather unappetizing Russian salads and smoked fish and so many other practically inedible dishes. I have used tiny dried raisins from southeastern Turkey here as they contrast nicely with the saffron-colored rice; also I find their drier texture more suitable than the plumper golden raisins. Serve with the Arabian Spiced Fried Fish.
SERVES 4 TO 6
Good pinch of saffron threads
¼ cup (60 ml) rose water
2 cups (400 g) long-grain rice, rinsed and well drained
1 cup (150 g) dark raisins
3 cups (750 ml) whole milk
1 stick plus 3 tablespoons (175 g) unsalted butter
1 tablespoon raw cane sugar
Sea salt
12 pitted dates, quartered lengthwise
1. Put the saffron threads to steep in the rose water and ¼ cup (60 ml) water.
2. Put the rice and raisins in a medium saucepan. Add the milk, butter, sugar, and saffron rose water. Add salt to taste. Bring to a boil over medium-low heat, being careful not to let the milk boil over, then reduce the heat to simmer, cover, and cook for 7 minutes, or until the rice has absorbed almost all the milk. Stir in the dates.
3. Wrap the lid with a clean kitchen towel and cover the pan—the towel helps to absorb the steam. Turn the heat down to very low and let the rice cook for another 7 minutes, or until it is tender and the milk is fully absorbed.
Couscous with Seven Vegetables
KSEKSÛ BIDAWI
MOROCCO
Friday is couscous day all over Morocco, and this couscous with seven vegetables is what families will gather around every Friday at lunchtime. The classic vegetables are carrots, zucchini, cabbage, pumpkin, turnips, fava beans, and tomatoes to enrich the cooking broth, but you can use eggplant if you want or potatoes or sweet potatoes or whatever is in season or takes your fancy. I often use baby vegetables for a prettier presentation, but normal-size vegetables are what everyone uses in Morocco. The presentation may be less dainty, but if they are cut well and not overcooked, they will look just as attractive.
SERVES 6
FOR THE COUSCOUS
2½ cups (500 g) fine or medium couscous (not instant)
Sea salt
1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil
2 tablespoons (30 g) unsalted butter, melted
FOR THE MEAT AND BROTH
½ cup (100 g) dried chickpeas, soaked overnight in plenty of water with ¼ teaspoon ba
king soda
1 pound 2 ounces (500 g) boneless lamb, neck fillets or meat from the shanks
Good pinch of saffron threads
2 medium onions (10½ ounces/300 g total), quartered
One 14-ounce (400 g) can chopped tomatoes
1 teaspoon finely ground black pepper
Sea salt
3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
4 tablespoons (60 g) unsalted butter
TO FINISH
1 small conehead (pointed) cabbage, damaged outer leaves discarded, quartered
5 ounces (150 g) baby carrots
5 ounces (150 g) baby zucchini
5 ounces (150 g) baby turnips
5 ounces (150 g) frozen, unpeeled fava beans
A few sprigs flat-leaf parsley, most of the bottom stems discarded, finely chopped
A few sprigs cilantro, most of the bottom stems discarded, finely chopped
⅓ cup (50 g) golden raisins
¼ teaspoon red pepper flakes, or to taste
Harissa, for serving
1. To start the couscous: Put the couscous in a large shallow bowl. Measure ⅔ cup (160 ml) water into a small measuring cup and add 1 teaspoon salt. Stir until the salt is diluted, then with your hand, sprinkle the water onto the couscous, little by little, raking it with your fingers to allow it to absorb the water evenly. When you have used up all the water, add the olive oil and mix well, rubbing any lumps with your hands to break them up. Put the couscous in the top half of a couscoussière. (If you don’t have one, line with cheesecloth a metal colander that will fit over the pot you will use to cook the meat and broth. The pot should be deep enough that the colander doesn’t touch the broth underneath.)