by Anissa Helou
SERVES 4 TO 6
FOR THE CHILI PASTE
5 small shallots (3½ ounces/100 g total), peeled
3 cloves garlic, peeled
4 fresh mild red chilies, seeded
½ inch (1 cm) fresh turmeric, peeled
Seeds from 4 green cardamom pods
1 teaspoon cumin seeds, toasted
1 teaspoon black peppercorns
FOR THE NOODLES
3 tablespoons vegetable oil
3 scallions, thinly sliced
4 cloves garlic, thinly sliced
5 ounces (150 g) peeled shrimp
1 medium tomato (3½ ounces/100 g), seeded and cut into ⅓-inch (1 cm) cubes
2 cups (500 ml) vegetable stock (homemade or using organic bouillon cubes)
1 small leek, thinly sliced
2 inches (5 cm) celery heart, thinly sliced
1 teaspoon apple cider vinegar
Sea salt
3½ ounces (100 g) cabbage, thinly sliced
2 ounces (60 g) bean sprouts
14 ounces (400 g) fresh yellow noodles
2 tablespoons soy sauce
FOR THE GARNISH
Shrimp crackers
Pickled cucumber
1. To make the chili paste: Put all the ingredients for the chili paste in a food processor or spice grinder and process until you have a fine paste. In Indonesia, cooks grind everything in a wide stone or earthenware mortar using a horizontal pestle that they roll over the ingredients to grind them (rather than beating down on them as in a bowl-style mortar).
2. To make the noodles: Heat the oil in a wok over medium-high heat. Add the scallions and garlic and sauté for a couple of minutes, then add the chili paste. Sauté until fragrant. Add the shrimp and tomato and sauté for a couple more minutes.
3. Add the stock, leek, celery, and vinegar and season with a little salt. Let the stock bubble, stirring very regularly, until reduced by half, about 1 hour.
4. Add the cabbage and bean sprouts and cook for a couple more minutes before adding the noodles and soy sauce. Cook, stirring constantly, until both vegetables and noodles are done, a couple more minutes. Taste and adjust the seasoning if necessary.
5. Transfer to a serving bowl and serve hot with shrimp crackers and pickled cucumber.
Salim’s Pasta Sauce
CHINA
I got the following recipe from Fuchsia Dunlop, the author of many brilliant books on regional Chinese cuisines, who explained, “The Uyghurs, like the Italians, are pasta specialists, and their geographical location on the ancient bridge between China and the West is strikingly apparent in their pasta cookery. Their hand-pulled noodles connect them with the Muslims who live scattered across northern China. . . .” And with Carolyn Phillips, author of All Under Heaven, I tried shaved noodles. It’s mesmerizing to see them being made, but it’s a specialist’s job, and I am suggesting you use regular noodles.
SERVES 4 TO 6
Vegetable oil, for cooking
1 pound (450 g) boneless lamb leg, thinly sliced
2 tablespoons Turkish mild red pepper paste
1 inch (2.5 cm) fresh ginger, peeled and finely chopped
1 clove garlic, finely chopped
4 baby leeks, sliced crosswise at an angle
5 Chinese garlic chives, cut into ¾-inch (2 cm) sections
1 medium red bell pepper, cut into small squares
1 medium green bell pepper, cut into small squares
1 small zucchini, sliced fairly thinly lengthwise, then cut into small squares
10½ ounces (300 g) green cabbage or spring greens such as chard or spinach, shredded
2 large tomatoes (10½ ounces/300 g total), finely chopped
1 tablespoon tomato paste
1⅔ cups (375 ml) meat or vegetable stock
1 teaspoon dark soy sauce
Sea salt and finely ground black pepper
FOR THE NOODLES
Sea salt
3½ ounces (100 g) dried noodles per person or 5 ounces (150 g) fresh noodles per person (depending on how many you plan to serve, for a maximum of 6)
1. Heat ¼ cup (60 ml) oil in a wok until smoking. Add the lamb and stir-fry until the pieces separate and the oil is clear again. Add the pepper paste and stir-fry briefly. Add the ginger, garlic, and leeks and stir-fry until fragrant.
2. One at a time, and stir-frying after each addition, add the garlic chives, bell peppers, zucchini, and cabbage. Add the tomatoes and tomato paste.
3. Barely cover the ingredients with stock and bring to a boil. Add the soy sauce and season with salt and pepper to taste. Reduce the heat and simmer until everything is just cooked. Set aside and allow to cool slightly while you prepare the noodles of your choice.
4. To make the noodles: Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Add the noodles and cook to a minute less than called for in the package instructions for the dried and 1 to 2 minutes for the fresh. Drain the noodles.
5. Divide the noodles equally among individual bowls, spoon an equal amount of sauce over each, and serve hot.
Classic Balaleet
QATAR | UNITED ARAB EMIRATES | BAHRAIN
A typical Arabian sweet-savory breakfast dish, balaleet is also served to guests as part of fuala, the Qatari/Emirati equivalent of the English tea spread, a selection of sweet, savory, and sweet-savory dishes served to visitors in between meals with Arabian coffee, karak, tea, and soft drinks. Offering fuala is also a way of entertaining without having to go to the trouble of preparing a full meal. You can make balaleet by first toasting the vermicelli then boiling it, or you can boil it straightaway and add turmeric to the boiling water to give the balaleet color. The recipe below is for the turmeric version (see Note).
SERVES 6 TO 8
Good pinch of saffron threads
¼ cup (60 ml) rose water
1 tablespoon ground turmeric
1 teaspoon ground cardamom
1 pound (450 g) vermicelli, broken into 1-inch (2.5 cm) pieces
4 tablespoons (60 g) ghee or unsalted butter, melted
¼ cup (50 g) raw cane sugar
Sea salt
4 organic eggs, beaten
¼ teaspoon finely ground black pepper
¼ teaspoon ground coriander
1. Put the saffron to steep in the rose water.
2. Preheat the oven to 200°F (100°C).
3. Put 2 quarts (2 liters) water, the turmeric, and cardamom in a large saucepan and bring to a boil over medium-high heat. Add the vermicelli and cook for 3 minutes. Drain the vermicelli and put in a medium oven-to-table dish. Add the melted ghee, sugar, saffron rose water, and a little sea salt and mix well.
4. Put the dish, uncovered, in the hot oven and bake for 20 to 30 minutes, or until the vermicelli has lost any excess liquid.
5. Meanwhile, heat a medium nonstick skillet over medium heat and when it is hot, add the beaten eggs. Season with salt to taste. Add the pepper and coriander and make a rather dry, thin frittata.
6. Place the frittata on top of the vermicelli. Serve hot.
NOTE: If you want to make the toasted vermicelli balaleet, before adding the vermicelli to the boiling water, toast it in a skillet in a little vegetable oil over medium heat, stirring constantly until the vermicelli is golden brown, about 7 minutes. Omit the turmeric.
Umm Saeed’s Balaleet
QATAR | UNITED ARAB EMIRATES | BAHRAIN
This recipe for balaleet is very different from the classic one. I learned to make it from Umm Saeed, an amazing woman caterer in Al-Ayn, one of the United Arab Emirates near Abu Dhabi, who runs a huge kitchen where her chefs cook meals for hundreds at a time. She uses Thai rice noodles instead of regular vermicelli, and because the noodles are white, you end up with a lovely mix of plain white noodles and saffron-colored ones. Umm Saeed also hard-scrambles the eggs instead of making them into a thin frittata to end up with an egg “crumble,” which mixes nicely with the noodles, adding more flavor and texture.
SERVES 4 TO 6
FOR THE SCRAMBLED EGGS
¼ cup (60 ml) vegetable oil
1 small red onion (3½ ounces/100 g), finely chopped
Pinch each of ground cinnamon, curry powder, and finely ground black pepper
1 small green chili, seeded and finely chopped
4 organic eggs, beaten
Sea salt
½ teaspoon ground cardamom
¼ teaspoon ground cinnamon
¼ teaspoon curry powder
¼ teaspoon finely ground black pepper
¼ teaspoon ground turmeric
A good pinch of saffron threads soaked in 2 teaspoons water
FOR THE NOODLES
14 ounces (400 g) Thai rice noodles
2 bay leaves
4 green cardamom pods
4 whole cloves
1 cinnamon stick
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
1 cup (200 g) raw cane sugar
Good pinch of saffron threads soaked in 2 tablespoons water
1. To make the scrambled eggs: Heat the oil in a medium skillet over medium heat. Add the onion, pinches of spices, and green chili and fry until golden, about 5 minutes.
2. Season the beaten eggs with salt to taste, then add the cardamom, cinnamon, curry powder, pepper, turmeric, and saffron water and pour into the pan. Scramble until well done and crumbly. Take off the heat.
3. To make the noodles: Soak the rice noodles in water for 10 minutes. Cut them in half and drain.
4. Fill a large pan with water and add the bay leaves, cardamom pods, cloves, cinnamon stick, and vegetable oil. Bring to a boil and add the rice noodles. Wait for the water to boil again, then drain the noodles. Place the noodles in a bowl, add the sugar, and mix well. Let sit for 5 minutes.
5. Spread one-third of the noodles over the bottom of a pot. Sprinkle a quarter of the saffron water over the noodles, then spread a third of the scrambled eggs over the noodles. Make two more layers in the same way until you have used up the noodles, scrambled eggs, and saffron water, sprinkling the last quarter of the saffron water over the top of the noodles. Wrap the lid of the pot with a clean kitchen towel. Cover and place over very low heat. Let the noodles steam for 10 minutes. Serve hot or warm.
Bulgur and Nut Cakes
BATIRIK
TURKEY
There are few Lebanese dishes that do not have their equivalent in the Turkish culinary repertoire, with the Turkish version always being different from the Lebanese, and often plainer. This recipe is more or less the equivalent of the southern Lebanese vegetarian tomato kibbeh or kibbet banadurah, except that the Turkish version here is prettier, a little more elaborate, and just as healthy. These bulgur and nut cakes, or as a friend of mine likes to call them raw veggie burgers, are the perfect answer for vegetarians: nourishing without being boring, easy to make, and totally natural.
SERVES 4 TO 6
¾ cup (150 g) fine bulgur
1 teaspoon tomato paste
3 firm-ripe tomatoes (10½ ounces/300 g total), peeled, seeded, and finely chopped
1 medium onion (5 ounces/150 g), halved lengthwise and cut into thin wedges
1 ounce (30 g) grated green bell pepper (2 tablespoons)
⅔ cup (100 g) pistachios, finely ground (see Note)
1 teaspoon pul biber (or Aleppo pepper)
1 tablespoon finely chopped flat-leaf parsley
1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh marjoram
Sea salt
FOR THE GARNISH
1 medium tomato, seeded and sliced into 8 thin disks
½ green bell pepper, finely diced
1. Put the bulgur in a large mixing bowl. Add the tomato paste and tomatoes and use your hands to mix well.
2. Add the onion and bell pepper and knead until well blended. Add the pistachios and mix again until well blended. Add the pepper and herbs and season with salt to taste. Mix well.
3. Divide the mixture into 8 equal portions and shape into flat patties. Arrange the tomato slices in a circle on a serving platter. Place a bulgur cake on each. Make a small pile of diced bell pepper in the middle of each cake. Serve immediately.
NOTE: Batirik can also be made with tahini instead of pistachios. Omit the pistachios and use ⅓ cup plus 1 tablespoon (100 ml) tahini, adding it when you would have added the pistachios. The tahini version is richer and not as pretty but just as delicious.
Bulgur “Risotto” with Chickpeas and Lamb
BULGUR BI-DFEENEH
LEBANON | SYRIA
I still remember the excitement when I lived in Beirut and my mother would make us bulgur bi-dfeeneh for lunch. It was, and still is, one of my favorite dishes and before rice became common, most Levantine people would rely on bulgur as their main staple, apart from bread, using it to stuff vegetables, to serve as a side dish cooked with tomatoes, or to make as a one-pot dish cooked with meat and chickpeas, as in the recipe below. Rural folks still favor bulgur over rice. I use lamb shanks here because the bones add richness to the stock that is eventually absorbed into the grain, but you can also make this with boneless lamb shoulder or leg or neck fillets.
SERVES 4 TO 6
4 tablespoons (60 g) unsalted butter
4 lamb shanks (about 3 pounds 5 ounces/1.5 kg total)
1 medium onion (5 ounces/150 g), finely chopped
⅔ cup (135 g) dried chickpeas, soaked overnight with ½ teaspoon baking soda
2 cinnamon sticks
1¼ cups (250 g) coarse bulgur
½ teaspoon ground cinnamon
1 teaspoon ground allspice
¼ teaspoon Lebanese 7-Spice Mixture
¼ teaspoon finely ground black pepper
Sea salt
1¾ cups (16 ounces/450 g) Greek yogurt, for serving
1. Melt the butter in a large pot over medium heat and brown the shanks. Remove to a plate, then add the chopped onion and sauté until the onion is soft and lightly golden, about 5 minutes. Return the shanks to the pot.
2. Drain the chickpeas and rinse under cold water. Add to the meat and onion. Sauté for a couple of minutes, to coat them in butter, then add 6⅓ cups (1.5 liters) water and the cinnamon sticks. Cover, reduce the heat to medium-low, and let bubble gently for 1 hour, or until the chickpeas and meat are tender. At this point you can keep the shanks as they are. Or you can take them out to take the meat off the bone. Return the meat to the pan and discard the bones.
3. Discard the cinnamon sticks. Add the bulgur and season with the ground cinnamon, allspice, 7-spice mixture, pepper, and salt to taste. Reduce the heat to low and simmer for about 25 minutes, or until the bulgur is tender and the liquid is fully absorbed. Take off the heat. Wrap the lid in a clean kitchen towel, put it back over the pot, and let steam for a few minutes.
4. Serve hot with the yogurt on the side.
Chicken and Lamb with Frikeh
FRIKEH ‘ALA D’JAJ WA LAHMEH
LEBANON | SYRIA | JORDAN
Frikeh, the grain of the moment, is wheat that has been harvested still green, burned in the fields, then threshed before being sun-dried and cracked. It has a wonderful smoky flavor because some of the grains get charred in parts during burning. You find frikeh in Syria, Lebanon, Jordan, Turkey, and Egypt. The Syrian and Jordanian frikeh are the same, coarsely cracked with burned bits and a strong smoky flavor. But most Lebanese farmers harvest the wheat a little later and often leave it whole, while Egyptian and Turkish farmers harvest it very green and don’t burn it as much. Regardless, wherever you eat it, it is a wonderful grain and a must-add to your larder.
SERVES 4 TO 6
1 small whole chicken (2¼ pounds/1 kg), quartered
2 small lamb shanks (1 pound 11 ounces/750 g)
1 medium onion (5 ounces/150 g), peeled
2 cinnamon sticks
Sea salt
2 tablespoons (30 g) unsalted butter
1 cup (200 g) frikeh
½ teaspoon ground allspice
½ teaspoon ground cinnamon
¼ teaspoon Lebanese
7-Spice Mixture
¼ teaspoon finely ground black pepper
¼ cup (40 g) blanched almonds, toasted in a hot oven for 6 to 7 minutes, until golden brown
2 cups (17 ounces/500 g) Greek yogurt, for serving
1. Put the chicken and lamb in a large pot and add 6⅓ cups (1.5 liters) water. Bring to a boil over high heat, skimming the froth from the surface. Add the onion, cinnamon sticks, and salt to taste. Reduce the heat to medium, cover, and let bubble gently for 45 minutes, until the meat is tender.
2. Remove the chicken and lamb to a plate. Strain the stock and measure out 2½ cups (625 ml) to cook the frikeh. Pour the remaining stock into a clean saucepan, add the meat, and place over very low heat to keep hot.
3. Melt the butter in a medium pot over medium heat. Add the frikeh and stir until it is well coated with the butter. Add the reserved stock, season with the spices and salt to taste, and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to low and simmer for 30 minutes, or until the stock is absorbed and the frikeh is tender. Take off the heat. Wrap the lid in a clean kitchen towel, replace over the pot, and let steam for a few minutes.
4. Transfer the frikeh to a serving platter. Arrange the chicken pieces and lamb over the frikeh. Scatter the toasted almonds all over and serve hot, with the yogurt on the side.
Lamb Shanks with Chickpeas and Wheat
HERGMA
MOROCCO
A classic hergma, which is a hearty breakfast Moroccan people eat on the street, is usually made with calves’ feet or sheep’s trotters. I love it with trotters, but I am not sure most of my readers are too keen on their gelatinous texture, so I am replacing the trotters (see Trotters with Chickpeas and Wheat, below) with lamb shanks. And even though Moroccans have hergma for breakfast, I have never been able to sit down to it early in the morning. The sight of the huge enamelware dishes filled with greasy trotters early in the day is a bit of a turnoff. Fortunately, people also make it at home for lunch and I still remember an exquisite hergma I had with friends in Casablanca many years ago. They had used sheep’s trotters, which are more delicate than calf’s feet. Their version was supremely sophisticated and not at all greasy like that of street vendors. Serve the dish hot with good bread and a refreshing salad.