Omoo: Adventures in the South Seas

by Herman Melville

  The first trip down, we arrived at the beach together: Zeke'senthusiastic cries proving irresistible. A trip or two more, however,and my shoulders began to grate in their sockets; while the doctor'stall figure acquired an obvious stoop. Presently, we both threw downour baskets, protesting we could stand it no longer. But ouremployers, bent, as it Were, upon getting the work out of us by asilent appeal to our moral sense, toiled away without pretending tonotice us. It was as much as to say, "There, men, we've been boardingand lodging ye for the last three days; and yesterday ye did nothingearthly but eat; so stand by now, and look at us working, if yedare." Thus driven to it, then, we resumed our employment. Yet, inspite of all we could do, we lagged behind Zeke and Shorty, who,breathing hard, and perspiring at every pore, toiled away withoutpause or cessation. I almost wickedly wished that they would loadthemselves down with one potato too many.

  Gasping as I was with my own hamper, I could not, for the life of me,help laughing at Long Ghost. There he went:--his long neck thrustforward, his arms twisted behind him to form a shelf for his basketto rest on; and his stilts of legs every once in a while giving wayunder him, as if his knee-joints slipped either way.

  "There! I carry no more!" he exclaimed all at once, flinging hispotatoes into the boat, where the Yankee was just then stowing themaway.

  "Oh, then," said Zeke, quite briskly, "I guess you and Paul had bettertry the 'barrel-machine'--come along, I'll fix ye out in no time";and, so saying, he waded ashore, and hurried back to the house,bidding us follow.

  Wondering what upon earth the "barrel-machine" could be, and rathersuspicious of it, we limped after. On arriving at the house, we foundhim getting ready a sort of sedan-chair. It was nothing more than anold barrel suspended by a rope from the middle of a stout oar. Quitean ingenious contrivance of the Yankee's; and his proposedarrangement with regard to mine and the doctor's shoulders wasequally so.

  "There now!" said he, when everything was ready, "there's noback-breaking about this; you can stand right up under it, you see:jist try it once"; and he politely rested the blade of the oar on mycomrade's right shoulder, and the other end on mine, leaving thebarrel between us.

  "Jist the thing!" he added, standing off admiringly, while we remainedin this interesting attitude.

  There was no help for us; with broken hearts and backs we trudged backto the field; the doctor all the while saying masses.

  Upon starting with the loaded barrel, for a few paces we got alongpretty well, and were constrained to think the idea not a bad one.But we did not long think so. In less than five minutes we came to adead halt, the springing and buckling of the clumsy oar being almostunendurable.

  "Let's shift ends," cried the doctor, who did not relish the blade ofthe stick, which was cutting into the blade of his shoulder.

  At last, by stages short and frequent, we managed to shamble down thebeach, where we again dumped our cargo, in something of a pet.

  "Why not make the natives help?" asked Long Ghost, rubbing hisshoulder.

  "Natives be dumned!" said the Yankee, "twenty on 'em ain't worth onewhite man. They never was meant to work any, them chaps; and theyknows it, too, for dumned little work any on 'em ever does."

  But, notwithstanding this abuse, Zeke was at last obliged to press afew of the bipeds into service. "Aramai!" (come here) he shouted toseveral, who, reclining on a bank, had hitherto been criticalobservers of our proceedings; and, among other things, had beenparticularly amused by the performance with the sedan-chair.

  After making these fellows load their baskets together, the Yankeefilled his own, and then drove them before him down to the beach.Probably he had seen the herds of panniered mules driven in this wayby mounted Indians along the great Callao to Lima. The boat at lastloaded, the Yankee, taking with him a couple of natives, at oncehoisted sail, and stood across the channel for Papeetee.

  The next morning at breakfast, old Tonoi ran in, and told us that thevoyagers were returning. We hurried down to the beach, and saw theboat gliding toward us, with a dozing islander at the helm, and Zekestanding up in the bows, jingling a small bag of silver, the proceedsof his cargo.

  CHAPTER LX.

  WHAT THEY THOUGHT OF US IN MARTAIR

  SEVERAL quiet days now passed away, during which we just workedsufficiently to sharpen our appetites; the planters lenientlyexempting us from any severe toil.

  Their desire to retain us became more and more evident; which was notto be wondered at; for, beside esteeming us from the beginning acouple of civil, good-natured fellows, who would soon become quiteat-home with them, they were not slow in perceiving that we were fardifferent from the common run of rovers; and that our society wasboth entertaining and instructive to a couple of solitary, illiteratemen like themselves.

  In a literary point of view, indeed, they soon regarded us withemotions of envy and wonder; and the doctor was considered nothingshort of a prodigy. The Cockney found out that he (the doctor) couldread a book upside down, without even so much as spelling the bigwords beforehand; and the Yankee, in the twinkling of an eye,received from him the sum total of several arithmetical items, statedaloud, with the view of testing the extent of his mathematical lore.

  Then, frequently, in discoursing upon men and things, my long comradeemployed such imposing phrases that, upon one occasion, they actuallyremained uncovered while he talked.

  In short, their favourable opinion of Long Ghost in particular rosehigher and higher every day; and they began to indulge in all mannerof dreams concerning the advantages to be derived from employing solearned a labourer. Among other projects revealed was that ofbuilding a small craft of some forty tons for the purpose of tradingamong the neighbouring islands. With a native crew, we would thentake turns cruising over the tranquil Pacific; touching here andthere, as caprice suggested, and collecting romantic articles ofcommerce;--beach-de-mer, the pearl-oyster, arrow-root, ambergris,sandal-wood, cocoa-nut oil, and edible birdnests.

  This South Sea yachting was delightful to think of; and straightway,the doctor announced his willingness to navigate the future schoonerclear of all shoals and reefs whatsoever. His impudence wasaudacious. He enlarged upon the science of navigation; treated us toa dissertation on Mercator's Sailing and the Azimuth compass; andwent into an inexplicable explanation of the Lord only knows whatplan of his for infallibly settling the longitude.

  Whenever my comrade thus gave the reins to his fine fancy, it was atreat to listen, and therefore I never interfered; but, with theplanters, sat in mute admiration before him. This apparentself-abasement on my part must have been considered as trulyindicative of our respective merits; for, to my no small concern, Iquickly perceived that, in the estimate formed of us, Long Ghostbegan to be rated far above myself. For aught I knew, indeed, hemight have privately thrown out a hint concerning the difference inour respective stations aboard the Julia; or else the planters musthave considered him some illustrious individual, for certaininscrutable reasons, going incog. With this idea of him, hisundisguised disinclination for work became venial; and entertainingsuch views of extending their business, they counted more upon hisultimate value to them as a man of science than as a mere ditcher.

  Nor did the humorous doctor forbear to foster an opinion every way soadvantageous to himself; at times, for the sake of the joke, assumingairs of superiority over myself, which, though laughable enough, weresometimes annoying.

  To tell the plain truth, things at last came to such a pass that Itold him, up and down, that I had no notion to put up with hispretensions; if he were going to play the gentleman, I was going tofollow suit; and then there would quickly be an explosion.

  At this he laughed heartily; and after some mirthful chat, we resolvedupon leaving the valley as soon as we could do so with a properregard to politeness.

  At supper, therefore, the same evening, the doctor hinted at ourintention.

  Though much surprised, and vexed, Zeke moved not a muscle. "Peter,"said he at last--very gravely--and after mature deliberation,
"wouldyou like to do the cooking? It's easy work; and you needn't doanything else. Paul's heartier; he can work in the field when itsuits him; and before long, we'll have ye at something moreagreeable:--won't we, Shorty?"

  Shorty assented.

  Doubtless, the proposed arrangement was a snug one; especially thesinecure for the doctor; but I by no means relished the functionsallotted to myself--they were too indefinite. Nothing final, however,was agreed upon;--our intention to leave was revealed, and that wasenough for the present. But, as we said nothing further about going,the Yankee must have concluded that we might yet be induced to remain.He redoubled his endeavours to make us contented.

  It was during this state of affairs that, one morning, beforebreakfast, we were set to weeding in a potato-patch; and the plantersbeing engaged at the house, we were left to ourselves.

  Now, though the pulling of weeds was considered by our employers aneasy occupation (for which reason they had assigned it to us), andalthough as a garden recreation it may be pleasant enough, for thosewho like it--still, long persisted in, the business becomesexcessively irksome.

  Nevertheless, we toiled away for some time, until the doctor, who,from his height, was obliged to stoop at a very acute angle, suddenlysprang upright; and with one hand propping his spinal column,exclaimed, "Oh, that one's joints were but provided with holes todrop a little oil through!"

  Vain as the aspiration was for this proposed improvement upon ourspecies, I cordially responded thereto; for every vertebra in myspine was articulating in sympathy.

  Presently, the sun rose over the mountains, inducing that deadlymorning languor so fatal to early exertion in a warm climate. Wecould stand it no longer; but, shouldering our hoes, moved on to thehouse, resolved to impose no more upon the good-nature of theplanters by continuing one moment longer in an occupation soextremely uncongenial.

  We freely told them so. Zeke was exceedingly hurt, and said everythinghe could think of to alter our determination; but, finding allunavailing, he very hospitably urged us not to be in any hurry aboutleaving; for we might stay with him as guests until we had time todecide upon our future movements.

  We thanked him sincerely; but replied that, the following morning, wemust turn our backs upon the hills of Martair.

  CHAPTER LXI.

  PREPARING FOR THE JOURNEY

  DURING the remainder of the day we loitered about, talking over ourplans.

  The doctor was all eagerness to visit Tamai, a solitary inlandvillage, standing upon the banks of a considerable lake of the samename, and embosomed among groves. From Afrehitoo you went to thisplace by a lonely pathway leading through the wildest scenery in theworld. Much, too, we had heard concerning the lake itself, whichabounded in such delicious fish that, in former times, angling partiesoccasionally came over to it from Papeetee.

  Upon its banks, moreover, grew the finest fruit of the islands, and intheir greatest perfection. The "Ve," or Brazilian plum, here attainedthe size of an orange; and the gorgeous "Arheea," or red apple ofTahiti, blushed with deeper dyes than in any of the seaward valleys.

  Beside all this, in Tamai dwelt the most beautiful and unsophisticatedwomen in the entire Society group. In short, the village was soremote from the coast, and had been so much less affected by recentchanges than other places that, in most things, Tahitian life washere seen as formerly existing in the days of young Otoo, theboy-king, in Cook's time.

  After obtaining from the planters all the information which wasneeded, we decided upon penetrating to the village; and after atemporary sojourn there, to strike the beach again, and journey roundto Taloo, a harbour on the opposite side of the island.

  We at once put ourselves in travelling trim. Just previous to leavingTahiti, having found my wardrobe reduced to two suits (frock andtrousers, both much the worse for wear), I had quilted them togetherfor mutual preservation (after a fashion peculiar to sailors);engrafting a red frock upon a blue one, and producing thereby achoice variety in the way of clothing. This was the extent of mywardrobe. Nor was the doctor by any means better off. Hisimprovidence had at last driven him to don the nautical garb; but bythis time his frock--a light cotton one--had almost given out, and hehad nothing to replace it. Shorty very generously offered him onewhich was a little less ragged; but the alms were proudly refused;Long Ghost preferring to assume the ancient costume of Tahiti--the"Roora."

  This garment, once worn as a festival dress, is now seldom met with;but Captain Bob had often shown us one which he kept as an heirloom.It was a cloak, or mantle, of yellow tappa, precisely similar to the"poncho" worn by the South-American Spaniards. The head being slippedthrough a slit in the middle, the robe hangs about the person inample drapery. Tonoi obtained sufficient coarse brown tappa to make ashort mantle of this description; and in five minutes the doctor wasequipped. Zeke, eyeing his toga critically, reminded its proprietorthat there were many streams to ford, and precipices to scale,between Martair and Tamai; and if he travelled in petticoats, he hadbetter hold them up.

  Besides other deficiencies, we were utterly shoeless. In the free andeasy Pacific, sailors seldom wear shoes; mine had been tossedoverboard the day we met the Trades; and except in one or two trampsashore, I had never worn any since. In Martair, they would have beendesirable: but none were to be had. For the expedition we meditated,however, they were indispensable. Zeke, being the owner of a pair ofhuge, dilapidated boots, hanging from a rafter like saddlebags, thedoctor succeeded in exchanging for them a case-knife, the lastvaluable article in his possession. For myself, I made sandals from abullock's hide, such as are worn by the Indians in California. Theyare made in a minute; the sole, rudely fashioned to the foot, beingconfined across the instep by three straps of leather.

  Our headgear deserves a passing word. My comrade's was a brave oldPanama hat, made of grass, almost as fine as threads of silk; and soelastic that, upon rolling it up, it sprang into perfect shape again.Set off by the jaunty slouch of this Spanish sombrero, Doctor LongGhost, in this and his Eoora, looked like a mendicant grandee.

  Nor was my own appearance in an Eastern turban less distinguished. Theway I came to wear it was this. My hat having been knocked overboarda few days before reaching Papeetee, I was obliged to mount anabominable wad of parti-coloured worsted--what sailors call a Scotchcap. Everyone knows the elasticity of knit wool; and this Caledonianhead-dress crowned my temples so effectually that the confinedatmosphere engendered was prejudicial to my curls. In vain I tried toventilate the cap: every gash made seemed to heal whole in no time.Then such a continual chafing as it kept up in a hot sun.

  Seeing my dislike to the thing, Kooloo, my worthy friend, prevailedupon me to bestow it upon him. I did so; hinting that a good boilingmight restore the original brilliancy of the colours.

  It was then that I mounted the turban. Taking a new Regatta frock ofthe doctor's, which was of a gay calico, and winding it round my headin folds, I allowed the sleeves to droop behind--thus forming a gooddefence against the sun, though in a shower it was best off. Thependent sleeves adding much to the effect, the doctor called me theBashaw with Two Tails.

  Thus arrayed, we were ready for Tamai; in whose green saloons wecounted upon creating no small sensation.

  CHAPTER LXII.

  TAMAI

  LONG before sunrise the next morning my sandals were laced on, and thedoctor had vaulted into Zeke's boots.

  Expecting to see us again before we went to Taloo, the planters wishedus a pleasant journey; and, on parting, very generously presented uswith a pound or two of what sailors call "plug" tobacco; telling usto cut it up into small change; the Virginian weed being theprincipal circulating medium on the island.

  Tamai, we were told, was not more than three or four leagues distant;so making allowances for a wild road, a few hours to rest at noon,and our determination to take the journey leisurely, we counted uponreaching the shores of the lake some time in the flush of theevening.

  For several hours we went on slowly through wood and ravine, and over
hill and precipice, seeing nothing but occasional herds of wildcattle, and often resting; until we found ourselves, about noon, inthe very heart of the island.

  It was a green, cool hollow among the mountains, into which we at lastdescended with a bound. The place was gushing with a hundred springs,and shaded over with great solemn trees, on whose mossy boles themoisture stood in beads. Strange to say, no traces of the bullocksever having been here were revealed. Nor was there a sound to beheard, nor a bird to be seen, nor any breath of wind stirring theleaves. The utter solitude and silence were oppressive; and afterpeering about under the shades, and seeing nothing but ranks of dark,motionless trunks, we hurried across the hollow, and ascended a steepmountain opposite.

  Midway up, we rested where the earth had gathered about the roots ofthree palms, and thus formed a pleasant lounge, from which we lookeddown upon the hollow, now one dark green tuft of woodland at ourfeet. Here we brought forth a small calabash of "poee" a partingpresent from Tonoi. After eating heartily, we obtained fire by twosticks, and throwing ourselves back, puffed forth our fatigue inwreaths of smoke. At last we fell asleep; nor did we waken till thesun had sunk so low that its rays darted in upon us under thefoliage.

  Starting up, we then continued our journey; and as we gained themountain top--there, to our surprise, lay the lake and village ofTamai. We had thought it a good league off. Where we stood, theyellow sunset was still lingering; but over the valley below longshadows were stealing--the rippling green lake reflecting the housesand trees just as they stood along its banks. Several small canoes,moored here and there to posts in the water, were dancing upon thewaves; and one solitary fisherman was paddling over to a grassypoint. In front of the houses, groups of natives were seen; somethrown at full length upon the ground, and others indolently leaningagainst the bamboos.