THE HIKES
Scenic Drive Trail
Providing an overview of upland habitats along the coast, the 0.6-mile Scenic Drive Trail is also the park’s original footpath. Start your hike next to the kiosk and pay station at the NATURE TRAIL sign. A grassy path through the pine flatwoods, the trail passes a bench overlooking a small marsh pond. While the pines are scattered throughout this patch of flatwoods, the understory of saw palmetto and gallberry is quite dense. A side trail tempts you to explore: it leads to another overlook on the marsh pond, where you might spy a marsh rabbit half-hidden by undergrowth. It doesn’t take long to transition from the pine flatwoods into a hardwood hammock. Habitat diversity is one of the delights of this loop.
The grass underfoot yields to soil as the trail becomes deeply shaded by young red maples, dahoon holly, and tall loblolly bay trees on the edge of a bayhead. Cinnamon fern thrives in the damp earth and crowds the edges of the footpath. With a tiny bit of elevation gain, you walk past an ancient saw palmetto with a long trunk. Towering loblolly bay trees and ferns remind you that the trail still parallels the bayhead, but more tall hardwoods are mixing in, including hickories and oaks. Passing through a low tunnel of palm fronds, the trail emerges within sight of a massive live oak reaching up and through the canopy. Pause at the bench, halfway through the hike, to reflect on this forest glen.
Circling around the oak, the trail continues into a palm hammock where the dark, rich soil resumes and loblolly bay crowds the edges. The footpath can get damp in this fern-rich stretch. Winding past southern magnolias and holly amid the bounty of ferns, the trail rises to the edge of the pine flatwoods. This last short stretch is in the sun, a mowed path between walls of saw palmetto and gallberry where tufts of wiregrass peep out of open spots. Passing a cluster of saw palmetto with long, healthy trunks, you emerge from the trail to the parking area, between the composting toilet and the picnic pavilion, completing a 0.6-mile walk.
To continue on to the Springs Trail, drive back to US 19. The main entrance is quite prominent along the west side of US 19, 3.4 miles south of FL 52. When you enter there, you’ll drive along the park entrance road for 0.5 mile back to the parking area (28.2881, -82.7190).
Springs Trail
Pick up a map from the kiosk in the main entrance parking area, and walk around the retention pond to get to its opposite side. This interpretive trail begins at the SPRINGS TRAIL sign, which lists the named features along the loop and their distance (by the quickest route) from the trailhead. A little beyond that is the first TOILET BOWL SPRING sign. We laughed out loud and walked up along the spring run, past the Little Free Library and picnic area, to the sign marking the spring. The tannic water swirled like a flushed toilet. It does that when the tidal conditions are just right, which is when the other springs are suppressed by the tide. A marsh dense with giant leather ferns is at the upper end of the spring basin.
Deep shade along the Scenic Drive Trail
Walking back along the spring run, rejoin the main Springs Trail and cross the bridge over the run. The CAULDRON SPRING sign draws your attention to the bluff adjoining the run. The spring vent is under the bluff, adding significantly to the flow of this creek. When the tide is high, the spring isn’t noticeable. Divers who have mapped this 320-foot-deep spring discovered that the narrow opening goes about 20 feet deep before it opens into a large cavern beneath the sign on the bluff. However, to enter the cavern, they must pass through “the teeth” formed by stalactites and stalagmites at the cavern entrance, formations that prove that the cavern formed when the Gulf of Mexico was well offshore of where it is today. During the Ice Age, the Gulf may have been as much as 70 miles to the west. Snook swirl around the spring vent as the tide is flowing out.
Continue along the main trail and make the left at the SPRINGS TRAIL sign. The broad path, marked with green arrows, parallels the water along the edge of the pine flatwoods. The creek is just beyond the saw palmettos and young cedars. At a sharp curve in the trail, take one last look down this spring-fed tidal creek from a bench on a bluff overlooking the needlerush marsh. The boardwalk of the Kayak Launch Trail is on the other side of the creek. Returning to the trail, follow it beneath through the lush vegetation, an understory of palms capped with longleaf pines. At a break in this vibrant habitat, you come to an observation point along the tidal creek, which, as it flows out towards the Gulf, joins with Salt Springs Run. You enjoy nice views across the marsh and meet it face-to-face at a boardwalk at 0.3 mile, with coastal panoramas on both sides. Right after the boardwalk ends, there is an observation deck up a short flight of stairs, just enough to provide another perspective on the scenery found here.
Cauldron Spring lies beneath the bluff
The tall, fluffy pines along this next stretch of trail are characteristic of those tapped for turpentine by sailors seeking naval stores along this coastline, although none bear the catface scars seen in more easy-to-reach locations on the Gulf Coast. They provide puddles of shade as the trail stays close to the tidal creek, offering several more stops for scenic views. A thinned palm hammock is home to Otter’s Landing, a clearing with a picnic shelter near the water. You may see visitors walking past with pails and fishing poles, as the park has many little coves along the tidal creeks and anglers are welcome to try them all. Once past the picnic spot, you may notice mangroves along the edge of the creek. Leading you through another picturesque stretch of coastal pine flatwoods, the trail reaches a Y intersection. Ignore the arrow and head over to the water’s edge instead, following the shoreline over to Fisher’s Corner. This little peninsula has a picnic shelter, too, and a great view back towards where the tidal creek merges with Salt Springs Run.
Rejoining the main trail by walking around the picnic pavilion, you come up to an observation deck looking out across the marsh along Salt Springs Run. Pass the trail junction and continue paralleling the marsh through the coastal flatwoods. Stop at the RED SPRING sign. This spring is nestled under a black mangrove canopy. Step to the edge and look down. Tiny fish are swimming through the clear but reddish tannic waters. The footpath continues through a breezy maritime hammock, leading to the end of a peninsula into the open waters of Salt Springs Run, 0.5 mile into your hike. Keep choosing the pathways closest to the water for the best views. Circling back around, it offers a panorama across a needlerush marsh, where a dozen wood storks are roosting in a tall slash pine on the far shore. The trail loops back to Red Spring. Turn left to continue, following the trail up a slight rise to the next junction, this one with a bench facing the return route back to the parking area. You’re not done exploring, so don’t take that trail quite yet. Pass the bench and come to a turn at the FIRE LINE TRAIL sign. Skip that side trip on this trek and make the sharp left. You’re on your way to see the namesake of this preserve, Salt Spring.
Fisher’s Corner, with juvenile yellow-crowned night-heron
The walk through the pine flatwoods yields to an open mud flat, where it’s obvious from the needlerush and the gravel that a high tide can swamp this piece of trail. Cedars and palms edge the cove. Continue straight ahead, where the CAUTION ALLIGATORS sign catches your attention at 0.8 mile. It’s there for good reason, as a large alligator has taken up residence near Salt Spring. Don’t walk to the edge without looking around first. Salt Spring is just beyond that sign in the tannic water between the mangroves, but at high tide it’s impossible to spot. At other times, it’s tricky to see. The spring vent is only the width of a manhole cover, but research divers have discovered cavernous rooms beneath the vent, and have explored its plumbing system down to 350 feet, making it one of Florida’s deepest springs. The high salt content of these springs led to their use during the Civil War for salt making. These salt works were far enough away from the open waters of the Gulf that the smoke rising from boilers didn’t attract Union forces.
Reflection Spring
Continue past the spring to a bench overlooking the spring run. This is the site of the “tidal waterfal
l” you saw on the park map and entrance sign, and the farthest karst feature along the Springs Trail. When the Florida Geological Survey assessed this spring in 1960, they noted “the water passes under a 3-foot natural limestone bridge. The water surfaces and flows 75 feet to a second bridge that is about 10 feet long, under which the water flows and discharges in vigorous boils through three holes in Salt Springs Run.” This churning of the spring waters is only visible on an outgoing tide. The trail ends around the corner at an overlook on the marsh, where a portable birding stand may be in place.
Leaving this peninsula, walk back across the low-lying marsh and down the straightaway through the pine flatwoods. You have the option of adding the FIRE LINE TRAIL to your hike when you reach the T intersection. It loops less than 0.5 mile through the flatwoods to the property boundary and back again. There are no karst features along it. Staying on the main trail, turn right, and then left at the bench. There is one more spring to visit before you end up back at Cauldron Spring, and it’s the one that will wow you the most. Cauldron and Salt may be the deepest, but Reflection Spring is the showiest. Turn left at the REFLECTION SPRING sign.
The short access trail ends at a broad spring basin, where sunlight reflects off the scales of the tiny fish darting near the surface. It almost seems staged, as if it was a garden pond, but the giant leather ferns grew naturally around Reflection Spring. Only the seating area is landscaped. Sit on a bench and enjoy this unexpected oasis. It came to light in 2016, after a 3,000-pound log was hauled out of a stagnant basin. By the very next day, the water flowed clear and fish returned. Divers have not yet explored its depths, so it remains a mystery for now. The log is still sitting off to the side.
Returning to the main trail, turn left. You pass a firebreak road on the left that can also be hiked to add 0.25 mile of walking in a mesic hammock. Straight ahead, the Springs Trail continues through the pine flatwoods to complete its loop, reaching the bridge where Reflection Spring churns at the base of the bluff. Chuckle once more at Toilet Bowl Spring, and walk to the parking lot to finish a 1.3-mile hike.
OTHER HIKING OPTIONS
1. Eagle Trail. From the main entrance parking area, the Eagle Trail leads into the pine flatwoods to the south towards the location of an eagle nest, visible in the distance where the trail makes a hard left at a T. The trail ends at the entrance road. An out-and-back walk is 0.6 mile.
2. Kayak Launch Trail. Extending less than 0.25 mile from the main entrance parking area to the put-in, this trail begins as a boardwalk adjacent to the canoe rental concession (727-478-3146) and restrooms. It’s a scenic 0.5-mile round-trip to the estuary.
3. Springs Trail Extension. In addition to the loop described above for the Springs Trail, there are two add-on loops at signs marked FIRE LINE TRAIL that ramble along firebreaks in the pine flatwoods east of the Springs Trail. By taking both loops, extend the hike at the Springs Trail to 1.9 miles. Add in the Eagle and Kayak Launch Trails to do 3 miles of hiking at the main entrance trailhead.
4. Black Rail Trail (28.3313, -82.7074). Under development, this birding ramble along the coastal marshes starts at a trailhead at the western end of FL 52. Unless it’s been maintained recently, you may only be able to find the first spur trail to a view of the marshes, a 0.2-mile round-trip. In all, it’s a mile’s worth of wandering along the estuary edge.
CAMPING AND LODGING
Crews Lake Wilderness Park, 16739 Crews Lake Drive, Spring Hill, FL 34610 (727-861-3038, pascocountyfl.net), tents only.
Holiday Inn Express Port Richey, 10619 US 19, Port Richey, FL 34668 (727-868-1900, ihg.com)
Inn on the Gulf, 6330 Clark Street, Hudson, FL 34667 (727-869-0096, innonthegulf.com)
James E. Grey Preserve
Total distance: A 1.3-mile circuit using three of the preserve’s trails
Hiking time: 45 minutes to 1 hour
Difficulty: Easy
Usage: Free. Open sunrise to sunset. No pets or bicycles permitted.
Trailhead GPS Coordinates: 28.236561, -82.700258
Contact Information: James E. Grey Preserve, 6938 Plathe Road, New Port Richey, FL 34653 (727-841-4560, cityofnewportrichey.org)
Hidden in the heart of residential New Port Richey is the 80-acre James E. Grey Preserve, a quiet rural breather along the Pithlachascotee River, known locally as the Cotee. An extensive boardwalk follows the sinuous path of the Cotee, creating the well-shaded Palmetto Loop, which has beautiful overlooks along the river and a large cove on the opposite side. A secondary loop provides a walk through an upland scrub habitat, where roserush and tarflower bloom in abundance.
GETTING THERE
Take FL 54 east from US 19 in New Port Richey for 2.7 miles, until you reach Rowan Road. Turn left and drive north 1.6 miles, past the light at Trouble Creek Road, to the turnoff for Plathe Road on the left. The turnoff for the park has a large sign, and it’s on your left after 0.25 mile. Drive in and park in the main parking area to start your hike.
THE HIKE
Between the restrooms and playground adjoining the parking area, a large kiosk showcases the park map, but it’s not obvious when you stand here which direction you should go to follow the trails. There is an open area beyond the kiosk, and on the map, it’s marked as the Grey Preserve Trail. But it’s easiest to start this hike by looking for the paved path that leaves the parking area at the handicapped parking spaces. It guides you through an open area, past a picnic shelter, and across a park access road to start the first of two loops in the park, the Palmetto Loop, which begins as a boardwalk. It’s a sturdy structure, built to withstand heavy flooding. It quickly swings through the floodplain forest to follow the Pithlachascotee River channel, providing a view of a sluggish waterway and a cove framed by oak branches.
As the boardwalk leaves the cove it meanders through a dense palm hammock, where songbirds fill the air with their calls. The river remains visible through a screen of trees, along with a few residences in view on the far shore. There is a break in the boardwalk at 0.1 mile, with a trail taking off into the forest to connect back to the Grey Preserve Trail. Stay on the boardwalk, and you’ll come up to a lake, with the Cotee remaining on your left. When you cross the bridge, it’s obvious that the two connect—the lake is a cove off the river, and a large one, lined by lush palm hammocks. The boardwalk winds along the waterway, well-shaded by cabbage palms, with glimpses of water from both sides. With all of the water surrounding you, there’s always a nice breeze, making this a cooler-than-average walk for a summer day.
After 0.25 mile, a side boardwalk leads to an observation deck. The setting is spectacular, with a panorama of the wild river shorelines. It’s hard to believe you’re in the middle of New Port Richey. Returning to the main boardwalk, turn left. The boardwalk ends, depositing you on a berm surrounded by a forest with ferns thickly carpeting its floor. You’re leaving the river now, as the trail keeps close to the shore of the cove. An opening with a bench provides a quiet place to sit and watch herons picking their way through the shallows.
Still in deep shade, the trail narrows, and the footpath becomes gravel. Glimpses of the cove are less frequent through openings in the forest. The footpath broadens again, back to the width of a forest road, as you approach the sign for the Upper Trail at 0.6 mile. Turn left to explore this loop, which focuses on the upland scrub forest near the river and offers two benches for resting. Pale pink roserush blooms in summer amid the grasses. Bear right at the loop junction and follow the wide path as it leads you into the shade of mature sand live oaks. The trail follows what looks like an old road, veering left as it loops around.
As the forest transitions from scrub to sandhill, you reach a junction with a bench. You could stay on this wide forest road to complete the loop, but a left turn at the bench will lead you down a narrow footpath under the oaks. It rejoins the old road within sight of the road you came in on, at a sandy clearing with a prominent cabbage palm. Turn left. In the open spaces, you’ll notice gopher tortoise burrows alo
ng the way. By 0.9 mile, you reach the end of the loop as the trail you’re on merges in. Continue straight ahead to the kiosk. Take a left on the Grey Preserve Trail. It leads straight back to the trailhead. But why not savor the river again on your way out? An unmarked side trail at 1.1 miles tempts.
Dive into the cool shade of the palm hammock, and you’re back along the edge of the cove again, approaching the opening in the boardwalk. Step up and return to the boardwalk. Turn left to retrace your approach through the floodplain forest back to the boardwalk’s end at the picnic pavilion. Follow the paved path back to the parking area, completing a 1.3-mile hike.
Trail junction along the Upper Trail
OTHER HIKING OPTIONS
1. Scenic Accessible Route. The paved path leading from the parking area to the boardwalk now enables those with wheelchairs, walkers, or mobility-assistance devices to explore the most scenic portion of the park, a 0.5-mile round-trip to the observation deck and back.
Pithlachascotee River from the boardwalk
2. Pasco Palms Preserve (28.221733, -82.748733). 5.2 miles west of this preserve at the end of Trouble Creek Road, Pasco Palms Preserve is a 116-acre coastal preserve managed by the Pasco County Environmental Lands Division, with a 0.5-mile nature trail. Park at Eagle Point Park or roadside to walk into the preserve.
50 Hikes in Central Florida Page 12