Mastering the Art of French Cooking, Volume 1
Page 53
1½ Tb butter
A heavy-bottomed, enameled saucepan or skillet
¼ tsp salt
Pinch of pepper
Small pinch of nutmeg
Melt the butter in the saucepan or skillet, then stir in the chopped spinach and seasonings. Cover and cook very slowly for a minute or two, until the spinach has thawed and released its juices. Uncover, raise heat, and stir for 2 to 3 minutes until all moisture has evaporated.
This may now be substituted for the cooked chopped spinach and used in any of the recipes calling for it or blanched spinach.
CARROTS, ONIONS, AND TURNIPS
Carottes, Oignons, et Navets
Carrots, onions, and turnips à la française are all cooked in substantially the same manner, so we have grouped them together.
CARROTS
Carottes
Carrots develop their maximum flavor if they are cooked in a covered saucepan with a small amount of liquid, butter, and seasonings until the liquid has evaporated and the carrots are beginning to sauté in the butter.
SERVING SUGGESTIONS
Buttered or glazed carrots go well with all kinds of roasts, and combine with other vegetables to make many of the classic garnitures which may surround a meat platter. One of the more elaborate of these is à la bouquetière which includes glazed carrots and turnips, diced green beans, peas, cauliflower bouquets, and potato balls sautéed in butter. Creamed carrots are particularly good with veal and chicken.
AMOUNT TO BUY
One pound of carrots minus their tops will serve 3 or 4 people. A pound of raw carrots, sliced, diced, or quartered, makes about 3½ cups.
PREPARATION FOR COOKING
Trim off the stems and peel the carrots with a vegetable peeler. Depending on their size and the effect you wish, slice them horizontally, or halve or quarter them lengthwise, then cut the lengths into 2-inch pieces. These pieces may, if you wish, be trimmed into the form of long garlic cloves; in French this is termed tourner en gousses or en olives.
(For tough old carrots only: If you happen to have end-of-season carrots, quarter them lengthwise, then cut out and remove the woody central section, and use only the reddish outer portion which French recipes call rouge de carotte. Then before proceeding with any of the following recipes, blanch the carrots by boiling for 5 to 8 minutes in salted water.)
CAROTTES ÉTUVÉES AU BEURRE
[Carrots Braised in Butter]
This is the basic recipe for cooked carrots; they may be served with a sprinkling of parsley, simmered in cream, mixed with other vegetables, or puréed.
For 6 people
A heavy-bottomed, 2-quart, enameled saucepan
1½ lbs. carrots, peeled, and sliced or quartered (about 5½ cups)
1 Tb granulated sugar (to develop their flavor)
1½ cups water
1½ Tb butter
½ tsp salt
Pinch of pepper
In the saucepan, bring the carrots to the boil with the sugar, water, butter, and salt. Cover and boil slowly for 30 to 40 minutes or until the carrots are tender and the liquid has evaporated. Correct seasoning.
(*) If they are not to be served at once, set aside uncovered and reheat when needed.
VARIATIONS
Carottes aux Fines Herbes
[Braised Carrots with Herbs]
1½ lbs. carrots braised in butter
2 Tb softened butter
2 Tb minced parsley, chervil and chives, or parsley only
A hot vegetable dish
Just before serving and off heat, toss the carrots with the butter and herbs. Turn into a hot vegetable dish.
Carottes à la Crème
[Creamed Carrots]
1 to 1½ cups whipping cream
1½ lbs. carrots braised in butter
Salt and pepper
Bring the cream to a boil in a saucepan and pour in enough to cover the carrots. Boil slowly, uncovered, for 15 to 20 minutes or until the cream has been almost entirely absorbed by the carrots. Correct seasoning.
2 Tb softened butter
2 Tb minced parsley, chervil and chives, or parsley only
A hot vegetable dish
Just before serving and off heat, gently toss the butter and herbs into the carrots. Turn into a hot vegetable dish.
Carottes à la Forestière
[Braised Carrots with Artichoke Bottoms and Mushrooms]
½ lb. quartered fresh mushrooms
1 Tb oil
1½ Tb butter
Salt and pepper
In a skillet, sauté the mushrooms in hot oil and butter for 4 to 5 minutes until very lightly browned. Season with salt and pepper.
2 Tb minced shallots or green onions
3 or 4 cooked fresh artichoke bottoms cut into quarters (or cooked frozen artichoke hearts)
1½ lbs. carrots braised in butter
Stir the shallots or onions and the cooked fresh artichoke bottoms into the mushrooms and toss for 2 to 3 minutes over moderately high heat. (If you are using frozen artichoke hearts, cook them separately, then add them directly to the carrots.) Fold or toss the artichoke hearts and mushrooms into the carrots.
⅓ cup good brown stock or canned beef bouillon
Salt and pepper
A hot vegetable dish
2 Tb minced parsley, chervil, and chives, or parsley only
Pour the stock or bouillon into the vegetables. Cover and boil slowly for 4 to 5 minutes until the stock has almost completely evaporated. Correct seasoning.
Turn into a hot vegetable dish and sprinkle with the herbs.
CAROTTES GLACÉES
[Glazed Carrots]
Glazed carrots receive the same type of cooking process as braised carrots; the only difference is that they are cooked in stock instead of water, and more butter and sugar are used so that the liquid reduces to a syrupy glaze in the bottom of the pan. Just before serving, the carrots are rolled about in the syrup so each piece is shiny with glaze.
For 6 people
1½ lbs. carrots, peeled, quartered and cut into 2-inch lengths (5½ cups)
A 2½-quart, heavy-bottomed, enameled saucepan with cover
1½ cups good brown stock or canned beef bouillon
2 Tb granulated sugar
Pinch of pepper
6 Tb butter
Salt and pepper
Boil the carrots slowly in the covered saucepan with the stock or bouillon, sugar, pepper, and butter for 30 to 40 minutes until the carrots are tender and the liquid has reduced to a syrupy glaze. Correct seasoning.
A hot vegetable dish
2 Tb very finely minced parsley
Reheat just before serving and roll the carrots gently in the pan to coat them with syrup. Turn into a hot vegetable dish or arrange them around your roast, and sprinkle with parsley.
CAROTTES VICHY
[Carrots Vichy]
The recipe for carrots Vichy is exactly the same as that for the preceding glazed carrots except that in place of stock you would use bottled Vichy water (or plain bottled water with a pinch of soda). The assumption is that pure noncalcareous bottled water produces a more delicate carrot.
CAROTTES À LA CONCIERGE
[Casserole of Creamed Carrots with Onions and Garlic]
This hearty dish of carrots goes nicely with red meats, pork, sausages, or plain roast chicken. It can also constitute a meatless main-course dish.
For 6 people
1½ lbs. carrots, peeled and cut into ¼-inch slices (5½ cups)
½ lb. (1½ cups) sliced onions
4 Tb olive oil
A 2½-quart, heavy-bottomed, enameled saucepan with cover
Cook the carrots, onions, and olive oil slowly in the covered saucepan, tossing occasionally, for about 30 minutes. The vegetables should be tender but not browned.
A large clove mashed garlic
Add the garlic for the last 5 minutes of cooking.
1 Tb flour
Toss the vegetables with the flour and cook 3
minutes more.
¾ cup boiling brown stock or canned beef bouillon
¾ cup boiling milk
Salt and pepper to taste
1 tsp granulated sugar
Pinch of nutmeg
Off heat, fold in the boiling stock or bouillon, then the milk, and finally the seasonings. Simmer uncovered for about 20 minutes or until the liquid has reduced to about a third of its volume and has thickened into a light cream. Correct seasoning.
2 egg yolks blended with 4 Tb whipping cream
A rubber spatula
A hot vegetable dish
2 Tb minced parsley
Off heat and just before serving, use the spatula to fold in the egg yolks and cream. Shake and swirl saucepan over low heat until the egg yolks have thickened but be careful not to bring them near the simmer or they may coagulate. Turn into a hot vegetable dish and sprinkle with parsley.
ONIONS
Oignons
It is hard to imagine a civilization without onions; in one form or another their flavor blends into almost everything in the meal except the dessert. We shall concentrate here on the small, whole, cooked, white onions which are so often called for as a vegetable garnish. When they are used in stews and fricassees it is generally advisable that they be cooked separately so you are sure they will be tender and retain their shape.
AMOUNT TO BUY
One pound of small onions will serve 3 or 4 people if they constitute a principal vegetable dish. If they are used as a garnish or in a mixture with other vegetables, count on 3 or 4 small onions per person.
PREPARATION FOR COOKING
The quickest, neatest, and least tearful way to peel small white onions is to drop them into a saucepan of rapidly boiling water and leave them for 5 to 10 seconds, just long enough for their skins to loosen. Drain. Run cold water over them. Trim off the top and bottom portions, removing only a little bit so as not to disturb the onion layers. Then slip off the outside skin and the first onion layer with your fingers. Pierce a cross in the root ends so that the onions will cook evenly without bursting.
If the onions are old and very strongly flavored, or if for digestive reasons you wish to make them milder, drop them into boiling, salted water and boil slowly for 5 minutes before proceeding with a recipe.
To remove onion flavor from your hands, wash them in cold water, rub them with salt, rinse again in cold water, then wash in soap and warm water.
OIGNONS GLACÉS À BLANC
[White-braised Onions—Glazed Onions]
White-braised onions may be served as they are, or they may be simmered for a moment in a good cream sauce. Use them also as a garnish for fricassees or blanquettes.
For 18 to 24 peeled white onions about 1 inch in diameter:
A heavy-bottomed, enameled saucepan or skillet which will just hold the onions in one layer
½ cup white stock, canned chicken broth, dry white wine, or water
2 Tb butter
Salt and pepper to taste
A small herb bouquet: 2 parsley sprigs, ⅛ tsp thyme, and ⅓ bay leaf tied in cheesecloth
Place the onions in the saucepan or skillet with the liquid, butter, seasonings, and herb bouquet. Cover and simmer very slowly, rolling the onions in the saucepan from time to time, for 40 to 50 minutes. The onions should not color, and should be perfectly tender yet retain their shape. If all the liquid evaporates during the cooking, add more by spoonfuls as necessary. Remove herb bouquet.
(*) May be cooked several hours in advance, reheated, and served as in the following suggestions.
TO SERVE
Petits Oignons Persillés
[Parslied Onions]
These go particularly well with chicken, veal, or fish in cream sauce.
2 Tb softened butter
A warm vegetable dish
2 Tb minced parsley
Just before serving the onions, correct seasoning. Off heat, roll them with the softened butter. Turn into a warm vegetable dish and sprinkle with parsley.
Petits Oignons à la Crème
[Creamed Onions]
Serve creamed onions with roast veal, chicken, or turkey, chops, steaks, or hamburgers, sautéed veal, chicken, or liver.
(For 2 lbs. of white-braised onions, serving 6 people.)
2 cups sauce crème (béchamel with cream)
Salt and pepper
1 to 2 Tb softened butter
2 Tb minced parsley
A hot vegetable dish
Fold the cream sauce into the braised onions and simmer for 5 minutes. Correct seasoning. Off heat, fold in the butter. Turn into a hot vegetable dish and sprinkle with parsley.
OIGNONS GLACÉS À BRUN
[Brown-braised Onions]
Brown-braised onions are used whenever you wish a brown effect, such as in brown fricassees like coq au vin and boeuf bourguignon, or in a mixture with other vegetables.
For 18 to 24 peeled white onions about 1 inch in diameter:
1½ Tb butter
1½ Tb oil
A 9- to 10-inch enameled skillet
When the butter and oil are bubbling in the skillet, add the onions and sauté over moderate heat for about 10 minutes, rolling the onions about so they will brown as evenly as possible. Be careful not to break their skins. You cannot expect to brown them uniformly.
½ cup of brown stock, canned beef bouillon, dry white wine, red wine, or water
Salt and pepper to taste
A medium herb bouquet: 4 parsley sprigs, ½ bay leaf, and ¼ tsp thyme tied in cheesecloth
Then either braise them as follows:
Pour in the liquid, season to taste, and add the herb bouquet. Cover and simmer slowly for 40 to 50 minutes until the onions are perfectly tender but retain their shape, and the liquid has evaporated. Remove herb bouquet. Serve them as they are, or follow one of the suggestions at the end of the recipe.
Or bake them as follows:
Transfer the onions and their sautéing fat to a shallow baking dish or casserole just large enough to hold them in one layer. Set uncovered in upper third of a preheated 350-degree oven for 40 to 50 minutes, turning them over once or twice. They should be very tender, retain their shape, and be a nice golden brown. Remove herb bouquet. Serve them as they are or according to one of the following suggestions.
(*) The onions may be cooked hours in advance, and reheated before serving.
TO SERVE
Petits Oignons Persillés
[Parslied Onions]
1 to 2 Tb softened butter
A hot vegetable dish
1 Tb minced parsley
Roll the hot onions gently in the butter. Turn into a hot vegetable dish or place them around your roast, and sprinkle with parsley.
Petits Oignons en Garniture
[Vegetable Mixtures]
Braised onions go nicely mixed with other vegetables such as glazed carrots, sautéed mushrooms, artichoke hearts, and sautéed potatoes.
CANNED ONIONS
All the brands of canned “small boiled onions” we have tried have tasted, to us, rather unpleasantly sweetish and overacidulated; they also need more cooking to make them tender. However they are so useful in an emergency that we offer the following treatment which improves them considerably.
For each No. 2 can of small boiled onions (¼ lbs. or 2½ cups):
2 Tb butter
¼ cup stock, canned beef bouillon, or mushroom broth
Salt and pepper to taste
A small herb bouquet: 2 parsley sprigs, ⅓ bay leaf, and ¼ tsp thyme tied in cheesecloth
Drain the onions. Drop them into boiling water, bring back to the boil and boil 1 minute. Drain. This removes some of the canned taste. Then simmer them slowly in a covered saucepan for 10 to 15 minutes with the butter, stock, seasonings, and herb bouquet until they are very tender and the liquid has evaporated.
SOUBISE
[Braised Rice and Onions]
This is a savory mixture of sliced onions, rice, and butter cooked slowly toget
her until they melt into a purée. The natural moisture of the onions is sufficient to cook the rice; no other liquid is needed. Soubise is particularly good with veal or chicken, or boiled leg of lamb à l’anglaise. It may be turned into a sauce soubise by puréeing it with a sauce béchamel or velouté and enriching it with cream.
For 6 people
Preheat oven to 300 degrees.
½ cup rice
4 quarts rapidly boiling water
1½ Tb salt
Drop the rice into the boiling salted water and boil for 5 minutes exactly. Drain immediately.
4 Tb butter
A 3-quart, fireproof casserole
2 lbs. (6 to 7 cups) thinly sliced yellow onions
½ tsp salt
⅛ tsp pepper
Salt and pepper