Kibo ( Brimming With Hope ): Recipes and Stories From Japan's Tohoku

by Elizabeth Andoh

  Most flowers are grown as ornamentals (used for decorative purposes), though some have medicinal, cosmetic, and culinary applications. You should not forage on your own, however, either in the wild or from a florist’s display—only certain varieties of flowers are edible.

  If you are able to obtain edible fresh flowers, begin by pulling small clusters of petals away from the center (the flower’s receptacle). To minimize bitterness and discoloration, trim away the white tips of the petals with a sharp knife. Bring a pot of water to a rolling boil, add a few drops of vinegar, and then add the petals. Stir and blanch for about 45 seconds. Drain and let the petals cool naturally. Use within an hour, or refrigerate for up to 3 days. Dry the petals for longer storage. If you have a dehydrator with a flat, finely woven tray, spread the petals out to make a sheet. Follow your appliance’s instructions or guidelines for drying herbs, such as sweet basil.

  If you are unable to obtain edible fresh or dried flowers, consider using some fresh herb such as finely shredded shiso or mint, or very finely shredded young ginger.

  Édamamé

  Fresh green soybeans, known as édamamé, come to market fresh throughout the summer months in Japan. Éda means “branch” and mamé means “bean.”

  Boiled, salted, and served in their pods, they are enjoyed mostly as a beer snack. In recent years, édamamé have become available year-round, frozen. In most supermarkets (within Japan and overseas), the green soybeans have been flash-frozen after briefly being blanched in salted water. Some frozen édamamé are packaged already shelled, though the quality is not as high as the ones still in their pods. Once defrosted, édamamé should be blanched and consumed immediately or refrigerated for up to 2 days before cooking and eating them.

  Kampyō (Sun-Dried Gourd Ribbons)

  Edible ribbons called kampyō are made from the calabash gourd (Lagenaria siceraria var. hispida). The gourd is shaved into long strips that are sun dried. In the drying process, flavor and nutrients (calcium, potassium, fiber) are concentrated. The liquid that results from soaking the dried gourd is used as a stock, especially in vegetarian kitchens. If you wish to use the liquid, be sure the kampyō you buy has been sun-dried without chemicals, such as sulfur dioxide. The ribbons are used to tie up various food packages.

  Kampyō comes in 25- to 30-gram packages. Each package typically contains three long ribbons, about 1 yard in length each.

  Katsuo Bushi (Dried Bonito Flakes)

  Most of the katsuo (bonito, a fish in the tuna family) caught in Japan is processed into dried flakes called katsuo-bushi. It is a rather complicated process involving filleting, boiling, smoking, curing, and finally inoculating with a fungus (Aspergillus glaucus) that reduces moisture. The result is a mahogany-colored, boomerang-shaped, stone-hard object that does not look immediately appetizing. But scrape this culinary enigma against a blade and behold: sublime, smoky, umami-rich flakes—think of them as I do: “bacon bits of the sea.” They add aroma and depth of flavor to stocks and when used as a garnish for vegetables and tōfu.

  When buying katsuo-bushi, look for resealable plastic bags of flakes with a slight pink cast to them—these will be smokier than the golden-toned flakes. Most household-size packages come in resealable plastic bags filled with 100 grams (about 3 ounces). Because the flakes are so light in weight and packed with extra air, the balloon-like bag may seem quite large to you. If you will be making basic sea stock more than three times a week, I recommend you buy this 100-gram size. Be sure to press out air before resealing, and if you live in a warm or muggy climate, refrigerate the sealed bag (once air is pressed out, it will lie flat).

  If you will be using the fish flakes only occasionally (for stuffing onigiri or a garnish for blanched greens), I suggest you buy packages that are subdivided into ten or more “fresh packs,” each weighing 3 or 5 grams. Although the quality (for the price) of the fish flakes is not as high, the individually sealed packets will be more convenient to use. And, as their name suggests, always “fresh.” The oils in katsuo can go rancid when exposed to air for long periods of time. Store sealed packets of fish flakes on a dry, dark shelf until you are ready to use them.

  Kombu (Kelp)

  Japanese stocks depend upon kelp—kombu—to provide depth of flavor. It is the naturally occurring glutamates in kombu that enable this to happen. Three varieties of kelp are commonly found in Tohoku kitchens: Hidaka kombu (Laminaria angustata), ma kombu (Laminaria japonica), and naga (“long”) kombu (Laminaria longissima), also marketed as hayani or “quick-cooking” kombu.

  Hidaka kombu. This kelp is typically narrow, dark, fairly sturdy, and often rippled in appearance (see photo). It is used for making stocks, both a low-heat stock that is mildly briny and a standard smoky dashi stock (adding katsuo-bushi or fish flakes). In addition, it is cooked as a vegetable.

  Ma kombu. This kelp is thick and broad, often with chalky streaks (see photo). Ma kombu makes a rich stock either on its own, or in combination with dried fish or fish flakes. To extract its full potential, soak ma kombu in cold water for at least 30 minutes before placing it on the stove.

  Naga kombu. Naga kombu is fairly thin and narrow and, as its name implies, long (naga means “long”) (see photo). Naga kombu is also marketed as hayani kombu or “quick-cooking kelp.” It becomes quite pliable when soaked in water, making it easy to fashion into rolls. The liquid that remains after softening the kelp (a water-extracted essence) can be enjoyed as a mildly briny stock.

  No matter what variety of kombu you use, do not wipe it before soaking or simmering. Any whitish residue is flavor-enhancing glutamates—you want to keep all of it!

  Store kombu in a sealed bag or canister on a cool, dark, dry shelf in the cupboard.

  A SPECIAL NOTE ON KOMBU

  When, in the summer of 2011, I sent out recipes to be tested for Kibō, my volunteers in Australia and New Zealand alerted me to a problem: they could not find kombu for sale anywhere. Why? Because it had been banned!

  Concerned and curious in equal measure, I did a search on the Internet and discovered that in October of 2010 (long before the nuclear accident in Fukushima), Food Standards Australia New Zealand (FSANZ) had placed a ban on the sale of kombu in Australia and New Zealand. The ban was linked to an incident in which at least one woman and her breastfeeding baby became sick after consuming a soy milk product that had been fortified with kombu, which led to an excessive intake of iodine. There is a paradox, however, in that FSANZ has mandatory iodine fortification of bread (the salt used in bread-baking must be iodized salt).

  Ironically, the soy milk product that ignited the dispute has since been reformulated (minus the kombu) and been permitted to re-enter the marketplace. Kombu, however, along with other marine algae classified as “brown seaweeds” (kelps such as kombu, and wakamé, hijiki, and aramé) remain suspect and generally unavailable there. Nori used in making sheets that wrap onigiri rice balls and sushi rolls is classified as a red algae, though it appears black when dried and takes on a green tint when toasted (most readers will encounter nori as toasted sheets).

  To date (January, 2012), the Japanese government has not been asked for, nor proactively offered, any scientific documentation regarding the relationship between consuming sea vegetables and general health. Millennia of Japanese dietary practice—consuming sea vegetables such as kombu, wakamé, nori, hijiki, and aramé regularly—has had no apparent negative health consequences.

  Since the disaster of March 11 and the release of radioactive materials from the Fukushima reactor, concern and confusion persists regarding Japanese sea vegetable products. Eden Foods, an American company that sells kombu and many other aquatic plants sourced in Japan and its surrounding waters, has posted information on their website: www.edenfoods.com/articles/view.php?articles_id=199.

  A sidenote about web-sourced information: I find that researching and writing manuscripts using today’s technology is both wonderful (constant updates on information are always available) and awful (trying to adjust
to the barrage of constantly updated material). All links to external websites were live and verified just before releasing this book. However, changes beyond my control may have taken place since that time. If you receive an “error (page not found)” or “connection has timed out” message, please know that I share your frustration.

  Kampyō (sun-dried gourd ribbons) Chrysanthemums, Edible (shoku yō kiku) Surumé Ika (squid jerky) Burdock Root (gōbō) Niboshi (dried sardines) Maitaké Mushrooms Kombu (kelp): naga kombu lies on top of (squarish) ma kombu Hidaka kombu Katsuo Bushi (dried bonito flakes) Mochi Ko rice flour Sendai miso Jōshin Ko rice flour Mixed mountain vegetables (sansai) Zenmai Royal Fern, Osmond Fern

  Mirin

  True mirin is made from mochi-gomé in the same way that saké is made from uruchi mai rice. The result is a naturally sweet, slightly syrupy “rice wine.” Many products on the market, however, combine sugar with saké If you are using mirin as a seasoning agent, decrease the amount of sugar called for in the recipe. If the mirin is being used primarily as a glaze, adjust with a pinch of salt, or a drop more of usukuchi shōyu (light-colored soy sauce).

  Store bottles of mirin as you would any syrup on a cool, dry shelf. After each use, be careful to wipe the rim before closing to keep the lid from sticking.

  Miso

  An ancient seasoning and preservative that most likely originated in China thousands of years ago, miso is the result of fermenting a mash of cooked dried soybeans (daizu). The resulting paste is intensely aromatic, flavorful, and nutrient-rich. The production of most Japanese-style miso pastes are jump-started with the addition of salt and komé koji (Oryza sativa japonica), the basic starter for many Japanese cultured foods, such as soy sauce, saké, and rice vinegar. Depending upon the length of time the koji-inoculated soy mash is allowed to ferment (as short as a few weeks or as long as several years) and the addition of other ingredients (millet, barley, different types of rice or soybeans), the color, aroma, flavor, and texture of miso changes dramatically.

  There are thousands of variations on the theme. Miso is often categorized by its color: aka miso, literally “red” is russet-colored and shiro miso, literally “white” is usually pale ochre or beige. Aka miso tends toward robust flavor and pronounced saltiness; shiro miso is usually more mellow, at times it can be as sweet as caramel. Nearly all miso pastes are regionally specific—in much the same way that varieties of wine and cheese are linked to place throughout Europe.

  Because the recipes in this book focus exclusively on the Tohoku region, only one kind of miso will really be needed in your Tohoku kitchen: a robust red called Sendai miso. Sendai, a castle town built in the closing years of the sixteenth century for feudal warlord Daté Masamuné, is the current capital of Miyagi Prefecture.

  Some Sendai miso pastes are quite chunky with bits of rice and beans. Other pastes are smooth, almost creamy. If you will be buying only one, make it a textured, chunky paste—you can always strain out the bits of rice and beans if they are problematic when making miso soup. The highly textured miso paste will be especially appreciated in making the walnut-miso paste.

  Although miso does not spoil easily, its appetizing aroma fades fairly soon after its tub is open. Refrigerating miso helps slow this process and diminish nutrient loss through oxidation. For optimal aroma and health-promoting benefits, it is best to use your miso within 2 months of opening the container.

  Mountain Vegetables (Sansai)

  The topography of the Tohoku is varied, including stretches of seacoast and wooded mountainous areas. As winter snows begin to melt early in March, sansai—ferns, brackens, various shoots—poke out from frozen earth, waiting for diligent foragers to claim the forests’ treasures. They are available for a limited time only and are considered seasonal delicacies of early spring. Today some sansai are cultivated on farms, though wild-grown sansai are more nutritious. Outside Japan, vacuum-sealed parboiled zenmai (royal fern Osmond fern; Osmunda japonica), takénoko (bamboo shoots), and warabi (bracken; Pteridium aquilinum) are available at many Asian groceries in their refrigerated section. Sometimes mixed mountain vegetables are packaged together as a sansai assortment. Fresh kogomi (fiddlehead of the ostrich fern; Matteuccia struthiopteris) are available in some North American and European markets in the springtime.

  If you purchase mountain vegetables in brine, drain the packing liquid after opening and flash-blanch (10 seconds after the water returns to a boil) before using. Store any unused portion in fresh cold water in a glass jar, lidded, in the refrigerator. Most products will be fine for 5 or 6 days; a sour odor or sticky film on the surface are signs of early spoilage. Discard any questionable leftovers.

  Mushrooms

  The mushrooms most often used in Tohoku cookery are shiméji, shiitaké, énokidaké, and maitaké. Fresh mushrooms should be loosely wrapped, each variety separately, in barely moistened paper towels or damp newspaper. Store in the vegetable bin of your refrigerator. Most varieties will keep well for 4 or 5 days. Clean and slice as close as possible to cooking time to preserve aroma and texture.

  Énokidaké. The Latin name for slender, white-capped enoki mushrooms is Flammulina velutipes. All commercially cultivated énokidaké come packaged in a clear plastic bag that is opaque at the bottom to hide from view the spongy (moldy-looking) stem portion. Remove the mushrooms from the bag, rinse the heads under cold running water, and shake them dry. Cut the mushrooms into short lengths. Start with the caps and work toward the stalks. Typically, the spongy bottom half is composted or discarded.

  Maitaké. The Latin name is Grifola frondosa. If you’re using beige-gray, ruffled maitaké (sometimes called “hen-of-the-woods,” though the name in Japanese is written with calligraphy for “dancing” and “fungi”), trim away any moldy parts of the white stems and, with your hands, separate the clusters lengthwise into thin strips (as though you were stringing string-cheese). The irregular surface that results from hand-tearing mushrooms will make them more flavorful than knife-sliced ones. Maitaké are extremely flavorful but tend to darken and “stain” the cooking broth that results from cooking them.

  Shiitaké. Shiitaké mushooms (Lentinula edodes) may be called black oak mushrooms, though the name “shiitaké” is much more common now. They are found in markets both fresh and dried. The calligraphy for shii is “oak tree” indicating that shiitaké mushrooms are cultivated from spores on oak logs. Production is quite ancient in Japan; early records suggest its cultivation goes back at least to the third century AD. Current commercial crops are grown in two ways: under natural forest conditions and in climate-controlled indoor facilities. Just before cooking, remove any dirt that might be clinging to the fresh mushrooms. Wipe mushrooms with a damp cloth or mushroom brush. After trimming away any gritty material clinging to the stems, twist and remove them (set aside to simmer and enrich stock). Slice the caps lengthwise into narrow strips, or into 4 or 6 wedges.

  Dried shiitaké, called hoshi shiitaké mushrooms, are not interchangeable with fresh mushrooms in recipes. Dried foods are typically more intense—think of the difference between dried tomatoes and fresh ones—and are often used in slow-simmered dishes. Recipes in this book that call for dried shiitaké will instruct you to extract a stock from them first.

  Shiméji. Shiméji or buna shiméji are usually called oyster mushrooms (Pleurotus ostreatus) in English. It is rare to see foraged hon shiméji in Japanese domestic markets: nearly all shiméji mushrooms sold in Japan today are buna shiméji, an easy to cultivate varietal. Like other cultivated fungi, such as énokidaké, buna shiméji are grown in clusters in squat jars. At market, the unattractive sponge-like material on which the mushrooms are grown is hidden from view with opaque packaging. When you are ready to use them, open the package, trim away the moldy-looking section of the stems and, if necessary, rinse the caps briefly under cold running water. Gently squeeze dry. With your hands, separate each mushroom from the larger mass. If the shiméji caps are broader than ½ inch across, cut these in half lengthwise.
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  Niboshi (dried sardines)

  Also called iriko, these dried fish contain naturally occurring glutamates that unlock the flavor potential of other foods with which they are cooked. Unlike chemically created glutamate, the flavor-enhancing essence that is stored in niboshi does not cause unpleasant side effects when consumed. In many areas of Japan, niboshi are favored over katsuo bushi (dried bonito flakes) in making home-style stocks. They are used in the Tohoku when making stock for wheat flour–based noodle soup such as the pinched noodles for Hittsumi-Jiru.

  Niboshi range in size from quite small (no more than 1 inch or so long) to 2 ½ or 3 inches long. As the fish dry, they shrivel—often in a contorted manner so that the backbones are curved or twisted. Like all kambutsu (dried staple foods), niboshi should be stored in a dry container on a dark shelf in a cool cupboard or kitchen drawer. After opening the original cellophane package, transfer the contents to a lidded jar or canister, along with the packet of drying agent that came in the original package.

  Oysters

  Native to the Sanriku coast, Miyagi oysters (Crassostrea gigas) are accustomed to a “tough” life fighting strong tides; they clamp shut tightly to protect themselves against the elements and predators. Compared to other varieties, Miyagi oysters possess sturdy shells that give them a longer shelf life at market, make them easier to shuck without shattering, and offer up a rich flavor since the “liquor” remains trapped inside. In addition to these stellar market and eating qualities, Miyagi oysters boast another virtue: their resistance to viruses that often plague other varieties.

  No surprise then that Miyagi oysters had, before the March 11th calamity, been the primary seed oyster for commercial aquaculture both domestically (Hiroshima, Mie) and internationally (export to the Pacific Coast of North America began in 1923 and to France in 1965). Because the Miyagi oyster so readily adapted to their new homes throughout the world, former customers (buying oyster seed) have become competitors (in selling market-mature product).