Lonely Planet Tokyo

by Lonely Planet

  Yamatane Museum of ArtMUSEUM

  (山種美術館 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-5777-8600; www.yamatane-museum.or.jp; 3-12-36 Hiroo, Shibuya-ku; adult/student/child ¥1000/800/free, special exhibits extra; h10am-5pm Tue-Sun; dJR Yamanote line to Ebisu, west exit)

  When Western ideas entered Japan following the Meiji Restoration (1868), many artists set out to master oil and canvas. Others poured new energy into nihonga – Japanese-style painting, usually done with mineral pigments on silk or paper – and the masters of this latter movement are represented here. From the collection of 1800 works, a small number are displayed in thematic exhibitions.

  1Meguro

  Tokyo Metropolitan Teien Art MuseumMUSEUM

  (東京都庭園美術館 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.teien-art-museum.ne.jp; 5-21-9 Shirokanedai, Minato-ku; adult/child ¥1100/800; h10am-6pm, closed 2nd & 4th Wed each month; dJR Yamanote line to Meguro, east exit)

  Although the Teien museum hosts regular art exhibitions – usually of decorative arts – its appeal lies principally in the building itself: it's an art-deco structure, a former princely estate built in 1933, designed by French architect Henri Rapin. A lengthy renovation (in 2014) saw the addition of a modern annexe designed by artist Sugimoto Hiroshi.

  Tip: budget time to lounge around on the perfectly manicured lawn.

  Institute for Nature StudyPARK

  (自然教育園; Shizen Kyōiku-en MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-3441-7176; www.ins.kahaku.go.jp; 5-21-5 Shirokanedai, Meguro-ku; adult/child ¥310/free; h9am-4.30pm Tue-Sun Sep-Apr, to 5pm Tue-Sun May-Aug, last entry 4pm; dJR Yamanote line to Meguro, east exit)

  What would Tokyo look like left to its own natural devices? Since 1949 this park, affiliated with the Tokyo National Museum, has let the local flora go wild. There are wonderful walks through its forests, marshes and ponds. No more than 300 people are allowed in at a time, which makes for an even more peaceful setting.

  WORTH A DETOUR

  HARA MUSEUM OF CONTEMPORARY ART

  The Hara Museum of Contemporary Art (原美術館 GOOGLE MAP ; www.haramuseum.or.jp; 4-7-25 Kita-Shinagawa, Shinagawa-ku; adult/student/child ¥1100/700/free; h11am-5pm Tue & Thu-Sun, to 8pm Wed; dJR Yamanote line to Shinagawa, Takanawa exit) fills the rooms of a rare Bauhaus-style mansion from the 1930s, the residence of the founder's grandparents. It was taken over by the Allied occupation after WWII and used as an officer's residence. Left in a shambles, it was coaxed into its present form – as a museum on the vanguard of Tokyo's art scene – in 1979.

  The permanent collection includes works from Japanese artists Morimura Yasumasa and Nara Yoshitomo, both of whom have created installations designed especially for the house’s nooks and crannies. Exhibitions feature both domestic and international artists.

  The patio cafe (which overlooks the sculpture garden) and excellent gift shop will make you extra glad you made the trip.

  The museum is 1.5km from Shinagawa Station. You can walk or take bus 96 from platform six (¥210, every 20 minutes) one stop to Gotenyama, from where it's a three-minute walk.

  1Shirokane & Takanawa

  Happō-enGARDENS

  (八芳園 GOOGLE MAP ; %03-3443-3111; www.happo-en.com/english; 1-1-1 Shirokanedai, Minato-ku; h10am-8.30pm; bNamboku line to Shirokanedai, exit 2)F

  Three centuries ago this gorgeous urban oasis was the backyard of a vassal to the shogun. Today its the grounds of a banquet hall, but usually anyone can enter to walk through the landscaped gardens (some areas are occasionally roped off for weddings). Highlights include the teahouse Mujyōan (無常庵 GOOGLE MAP ; %03-3443-3775; 1-1-11 Shirokanedai, Minato-ku; h11am-4pm; bNanboku line to Shirokanedai, exit 2), where you can sample matcha (powdered green tea), the row of bonsai (there's a 520-year-old pine!), and the air of serenity.

  Sengaku-jiBUDDHIST TEMPLE

  (泉岳寺 GOOGLE MAP ; www.sengakuji.or.jp; 2-11-1 Takanawa, Minato-ku; h7am-6pm Apr-Sep, to 5pm Oct-Mar; bAsakusa line to Sengaku-ji, exit A2)

  The story of the 47 rōnin (masterless samurai) who avenged their master, Lord Asano – put to death after being tricked into pulling a sword on a rival – is legend in Japan. They were condemned to commit seppuku (ritual disembowelment) and their remains were buried at this temple. It's a sombre place, with fresh incense rising from the tombs, placed there by visitors moved by the loyalty of the samurai.

  Hatakeyama CollectionMUSEUM

  (畠山記念館 GOOGLE MAP ; www.ebara.co.jp/csr/hatakeyama; 2-20-12 Shirokanedai, Minato-ku; adult/student/child ¥700/500/free; h10am-5pm Tue-Sun Apr-Sep, to 4.30pm Oct-Mar; bAsakusa line to Takanawadai, exit A2)

  Get a feel for wabi-sabi – the aesthetic of perfect imperfections that guides the tea ceremony – at this museum specialising in the earthy pottery and art associated with the traditional ceremony. While the museum itself is rather small, it sits in a woodsy garden with several teahouses. A cup of matcha and a traditional sweet can be had for an extra ¥500. Note that the museum closes for weeks at a time in between exhibitions.

  From exit A2 of Takanawadai station, hang a left at the police box (on your left) and keep going until you see the green-and-white sign (in Japanese) on the utility pole telling you to turn left.

  2Local Life

  Exploring Daikanyama & Naka-Meguro

  Just one stop from Shibuya, but a world away, Daikanyama is an upscale residential enclave with sidewalk cafes, fashionable boutiques and an unhurried pace. Neighbouring Naka-Meguro is Daikanyama’s bohemian little sister, home to secondhand shops and secret lounge bars. At the heart of the neighbourhood is the Meguro-gawa, a canal with a leafy promenade.

  1 Secret Garden

  The Kyū Asakura House (旧朝倉家住宅; Kyū Asakura-ke Jūtaku MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 03-3476-1021; 29-20 Sarugaku-chō, Shibuya-ku; adult/child ¥100/50; h10am-6pm Mar-Oct, to 4pm Nov-Feb; dTōkyū Tōyoko line to Daikanyama) is a rare example of early-20th-century villa architecture (so hidden that many locals don't even know it exists) with tatami (reed mat) rooms and a garden with stone lanterns you can explore. It's a peek at what the neighbourhood looked like, before it was subsumed by the city.

  2 Bohemian Threads

  Okura, which sells boho-chic indigo-dyed goods, looks out of place in trendy Daikanyama (the shop looks like a farmhouse), but it's actually a neighbourhood landmark. If you're hungry, quirky cafe Bombay Bazar, run by the same folks, is next door.

  3 Booklovers' Haunt

  Locals love Daikanyama T-Site (代官山T-SITE MAP GOOGLE MAP ; http://tsite.jp/daikanyama; 17-5 Sarugaku-chō, Shibuya-ku; h7am-2am; dTōkyū Tōyoko line to Daikanyama). This stylish shrine to the printed word has fantastic books on travel, art, design and food (some in English). You can even sit at the in-house Starbucks and read all afternoon – if you can get a seat.

  4 Canalside Stroll

  Lined with cherry trees and a walking path, the Meguro-gawa, not so much a river as a canal, is what gives the neighbourhood Naka-Meguro its unlikely village vibe. On either side you'll find boutiques and a handful of eating and drinking spots.

  5 Hidden Art

  Possibly the city's tiniest art gallery, the Container ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; http://the-container.com; 1-8-30 Kami-Meguro, Meguro-ku; h11am-9pm Wed-Mon, to 8pm Sat & Sun; bHibiya line to Naka-Meguro) is literally a shipping container within a hair salon. It doesn't get much more Tokyo than that.

  6 Treasure Hunting

  A perfect example of Naka-Meguro's tiny, impeccably curated boutiques, Vase ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; vasenakameguro.com; 1-7-7 Kami-Meguro, Meguro-ku; hnoon-8pm; bHibiya line to Naka-Meguro) stocks avant-garde designers and vintage pieces (for men and women). It's in a little white house set back from the Meguro-gawa (the name is on the post box).

  7 Vintage Izakaya

  Ōtaru (おおたる MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-3710-7439; 1-5-15 Naka-Meguro, Meguro-ku; dishes ¥330-600; h11.30am-2am) isn't winning any Michelin stars, but we're giving it three stars of our own for atmosphere. In increasingly redeveloped Naka-Meguro, this izakaya, in an old wooden building festooned with lan
terns, stands out. Locals and visitors alike love it for its reasonable prices, canalside location and the fact that it opens before noon.

  8 Hipster Lounge

  Call it a day with a round of takkyū (ping pong) at Nakame Takkyū Lounge – the neighbourhood's best-known 'secret' bar.

  Cherry blossoms in Naka-Meguro | TOM BONAVENTURE / GETTY IMAGES ©

  5Eating

  5Ebisu

  oAfuriRAMEN¥

  (あふり MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 1-1-7 Ebisu, Shibuya-ku; noodles from ¥880; h11am-5am; dJR Yamanote line to Ebisu, east exit)

  Hardly your typical, surly rāmen-ya, Afuri has upbeat young cooks and a hip industrial interior. The unorthodox menu might draw eye-rolls from purists, but house specialities such as yuzu-shio (a light, salty broth flavoured with yuzu, a type of citrus) draw lines at lunchtime. Order from the vending machine.

  OucaICE CREAM¥

  (櫻花 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.ice-ouca.com; 1-6-6 Ebisu, Shibuya-ku; ice cream from ¥400; h11am-11.30pm Mar-Oct, noon-11pm Nov-Feb; dJR Yamanote line to Ebisu, east exit)

  Green tea isn’t the only flavour Japan has contributed to the ice-cream playbook; other delicious innovations available (seasonally) at Ouca include kuro-goma (black sesame), kinako kurosato (roasted soy-bean flour and black sugar) and beni imo (purple sweet potato).

  MegutamaSHOKUDO¥

  (めぐたま MAP GOOGLE MAP ; http://megutama.com/; 3-2-7 Higashi, Shibuya-ku; lunch/dinner from ¥1000/1500; h11.30am-2pm & 5-11pm Mon-Fri, noon-10pm Sat & Sun; dJR Yamanote line to Ebisu, east exit)

  Megutama calls itself a 'photo books diner' – because thousands of photo tomes are shelved on its walls. Diners are free to flip through them (use the coloured card as a placeholder). The food here is good, too: classic home-cooking from a trio of very able women in aprons and kerchiefs. It's a modern wooden building with a red awning.

  Ebisu-yokochōSTREET FOOD¥¥

  (恵比寿横町 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.ebisu-yokocho.com; 1-7-4 Ebisu, Shibuya-ku; dishes ¥500-1500; h5pm-late; dJR Yamanote line to Ebisu, east exit)

  Locals love this retro arcade chock-a-block with food stalls dishing up everything from humble yaki soba (fried buckwheat noodles) to decadent hotate-yaki (grilled scallops). Seating is on stools, while tables are fashioned from various items such as repurposed beer crates. It's a loud, lively (and smoky) place, especially on a Friday night; go early to get a table.

  You won't find English menus, but the adventurous can get away with pointing at their fellow diners' dishes (you'll be sitting cheek-to-jowl with them). Even if you don’t stop to eat, it’s worth strolling through. The entrance is marked with a rainbow-coloured sign.

  IppoIZAKAYA¥

  (一歩 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-3445-8418; 2nd fl, 1-22-10 Ebisu, Shibuya-ku; dishes ¥500-1500; h6pm-3am; dJR Yamanote line to Ebisu, east exit)

  This mellow little izakaya (Japanese pub-eatery) specialises in simple pleasures: fish and sake (there’s an English sign out front that says just that). The friendly chefs speak some English and can help you decide what to have grilled, steamed, simmered or fried (or if you can't decide, the ¥2500 set menu is great value). The entrance is up the wooden stairs.

  Yakiniku ChampionBARBECUE¥¥

  (焼肉チャンピオン MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-5768-6922; www.yakiniku-champion.com; 1-2-8 Ebisu, Shibuya-ku; dishes ¥780-3300, course from ¥5250; h5pm-12.30am Mon-Fri, to 1am Sat, 4.30pm-midnight Sun; dJR Yamanote line to Ebisu, west exit)

  Ready for an introduction into the Japanese cult of yakiniku (Korean barbecue)? Champion's sprawling menu includes everything from sweetbreads to the choicest cuts of grade A5 wagyú (Japanese beef); the menu even has a diagram of the cuts. You can't go wrong with popular dishes such as kalbi (short ribs, ¥980). It's very popular; best to reserve ahead.

  Ta-imISRAELI¥¥

  (タイーム MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-5424-2990; www.ta-imebisu.com; 1-29-16 Ebisu, Shibuya-ku; lunch set ¥1380-1780, dishes from ¥680-1980; h11.30am-2.30pm & 6-11pm Thu-Tue; v; dJR Yamanote line to Ebisu, east exit)

  This tiny Israeli bistro, run by expat Dan Zuckerman, regularly draws a crowd for its authentic felafel, schnitzel, hummus and more – washed down with Goldstar beer. Call ahead in the evening (in English is fine) as it's often full.

  5Daikanyama & Naka-Meguro

  Bombay BazarINTERNATIONAL¥

  (ボンベイバザー MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.bombaybazar.jp; 20-11 Sarugaku-chō; mains ¥1000-1300; h11.30am-7.30pm; v; dTōkyū Tōyoko line to Daikanyama)

  Mismatched furniture and ‘found’ objects conspire to make this cafe look like something the Lost Boys of Peter Pan may have thrown together. The menu is similarly eclectic, with a spin-the-globe selection of pizza, pastas and curries (made with organic vegies). For just a snack, the okura-yaki, a chubby hotcake stuffed with red bean or blueberry jam, is delicious.

  Higashi-YamaJAPANESE¥¥¥

  (ヒガシヤマ GOOGLE MAP ; %03-5720-1300; www.higashiyama-tokyo.jp; 1-21-25 Higashiyama, Meguro-ku; lunch/dinner from ¥1650/4950; h11.30am-2pm Tue-Sat, 6pm-1am Mon-Sat; bHibiya line to Naka-Meguro)

  Higashi-Yama serves scrumptious modern Japanese cuisine paired with gorgeous crockery. The interior, a rustic take on minimalism, is stunning too. The restaurant is all but hidden, on a side street with little signage; see the website for a map. Tasting courses make ordering easy; the 'chef's recommendation' course (¥9020) is a worthwhile splurge. Best to book ahead.

  5Meguro

  oTonkiTONKATSU¥

  (とんき MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 1-2-1 Shimo-Meguro, Meguro-ku; meals ¥1900; h4-10.45pm Wed-Mon, closed 3rd Mon of month; dJR Yamanote line to Meguro, west exit)

  Tonki is a Tokyo tonkatsu (crumbed pork cutlet) legend, deep-frying pork cutlets, recipe unchanged, for nearly 80 years. The seats at the counter – where you can watch the perfectly choreographed chefs – are the most coveted, though there is usually a queue. There are tables upstairs.

  From the station, walk down Meguro-dōri, take a left at the first alley and look for a white sign and noren (doorway curtains) across the sliding doors.

  LOCAL KNOWLEDGE

  MEGURO-GAWA HANAMI

  If you're in town during hanami (blossom-viewing) season, don't miss one of the city's best parties, along the Meguro-gawa (目黒川 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; bHibiya line to Naka-Meguro) in Naka-Meguro. Here vendors line the canal selling more upmarket treats than you’ll find anywhere else. Rather than stake out a space to sit, visitors stroll under the blossoms, hot wine in hand.

  6Drinking & Nightlife

  oNakame Takkyū LoungeLOUNGE

  (中目卓球ラウンジ MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 2nd fl, Lion House Naka-Meguro, 1-3-13 Kami-Meguro, Meguro-ku; cover before/after 10pm ¥500/800; h6pm-2am Mon-Sat; bHibiya line to Naka-Meguro)

  Takkyū means table tennis and it’s a serious sport in Japan. This hilarious bar looks like a university table-tennis clubhouse – right down to the tatty furniture and posters of star players on the wall. It's in an apartment building next to a parking garage (go all the way down the corridor past the bikes); ring the doorbell for entry.

  Bar TrenchCOCKTAIL BAR

  (バートレンチ MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-3780-5291; http://small-axe.net/bar-trench/; 1-5-8 Ebisu-Nishi, Shibuya-ku; cover ¥500; h7pm-2am Mon-Sat, 6pm-1am Sun; dJR Yamanote line to Ebisu, west exit)

  One of the pioneers in Tokyo's new cocktail scene, Trench (named for the trench-like alley in which it is nestled) is a tiny place with the air of old-world bohemianism. It has a short but sweet menu of original tipples. Highlights include the 'Shady Samurai' (green-tea-infused gin with elderflower liquor, egg white and lime; ¥1620).

  BuriBAR

  (ぶり MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-3496-7744; 1-14-1 Ebisu-nishi, Shibuya-ku; h5pm-3am; dJR Yamanote line to Ebisu, west exit)

  Buri – the name means 'super' in Hiroshima dialect – is one of Ebisu's most popular tachinomi-ya (standing bars). On almost any night you can find a lively crowd packed in around the horseshoe-shaped counter here. Generous quantities of sake (
more than 40 varieties; ¥770) are served semifrozen, like slushies in colourful jars.

  Bar MarthaBAR

  (バー ・マーサ MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.martha-records.com; 1-22-23 Ebisu, Shibuya-ku; cover incl bar snacks ¥800; h7pm-5am; dJR Yamanote line to Ebisu, east exit)

  It's hard to say which is more impressive at this dim, moody bar: the whiskey list or the collection of records. The latter are played on spot-lit turntables, amplified by a 1m-tall vintage Tannoy speaker. The cocktails, especially the nama shōga mosuko myūru (生生姜モスコミュール; fresh ginger moscow mule) are excellent, too. Drinks from ¥800.

  Sarutahiko CoffeeCAFE

  (猿田彦珈琲 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; http://sarutahiko.co; 1−6−6 Ebisu, Shibuya-ku; h8am-12.30am Mon-Fri, 10am-12.30am Sat & Sun; dJR Yamanote line to Ebisu, east exit)

  Even though it has only a few seats inside, Sarutahiko Coffee is Ebisu's most popular caffeine pit stop, thanks to its aromatic, well-chosen beans. Both hand-drip and espresso drinks (from ¥400) are served.

  3Entertainment

  oUnitLIVE MUSIC

  (ユニット MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-5459-8630; www.unit-tokyo.com; 1-34-17 Ebisu-nishi, Shibuya-ku; ¥2500-5000; dTōkyū Tōyoko line to Daikanyama)