Lonely Planet Tokyo
Page 18
A highlight for children (sorry grown-ups!) is a giant, plush replica of the cat bus from the classic My Neighbor Totoro (1988) that kids can climb on. There's also a small theatre where original animated shorts – which can only be seen here! – are screened (you'll get a ticket for this when you enter). The film changes monthly to keep fans coming back.
Getting to Ghibli is all part of the adventure. A minibus (round trip/one way ¥320/210) leaves for the museum every 20 minutes from Mitaka Station (bus stop 9). The museum is on the western edge of Inokashira-kōen, so you can also walk there or back through the park from Kichijōji Station in about 30 minutes.
Check the website for details on how to secure tickets.
Did You Know?
ASpirited Away (2001) won the Academy Award for Best Animated Feature – the only Japanese animated film and only hand-drawn film ever to win.
Practicalities
Aジブリ美術館
A MAP GOOGLE MAP
Awww.ghibli-museum.jp
A1-1-83 Shimo-Renjaku, Mitaka-shi
Aadult ¥1000, child ¥100-700
Ah10am-6pm, closed Tue
AdJR Sōbu-Chūō line to Mitaka, south exit
1Sights
1Nakano & Kōenji
oNakano BroadwayNOTABLE BUILDING
(中野ブロードウェイ MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.nbw.jp; 5-25-15 Nakano, Nakano-ku; hvaries by shop; W; dJR Sōbu-Chūō line to Nakano, north exit)
This vintage 1960s shopping mall – at the end of the equally vintage Nakano Sun Mall covered arcade – helped cement Nakano's reputation as an underground Akihabara. It's filled with small shops aimed at collectors of all sorts; many sell manga (Japanese comics) and vintage toys, but there are also those specialising in antique watches, darts…you name it.
GarterGALLERY
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; http://chimpom.jp/; Kita-Kore Bldg, 3-4-13 Kōenji-kita, Suginami-ku; h3.30-9pm Thu-Tue; dJR Sōbu line to Kōenji, north exit)F
Inside the Kita-Kore Building, this space is run by Tokyo-based art collective ChimPom. The group is known to be overtly political (and sometimes un-PC), which makes this an interesting space to watch. Closed between exhibits.
1Kichijōji & Mitaka
Ghibli Museum Top Sight
MAP GOOGLE MAP
oInokashira-kōenPARK
(井の頭公園 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.kensetsu.metro.tokyo.jp/seibuk/inokashira/index.html; 1-18-31 Gotenyama, Musashino-shi; dJR Sōbu-Chūō line to Kichijōji, Kōen exit)
One of Tokyo's best parks, Inokashira-kōen has a big pond in the middle flanked by woodsy strolling paths. You can rent row boats and swan-shaped pedal boats to take out onto the water (¥700 per hour). On weekends performance artists and craft vendors gather here (along with lots of Tokyoites of all ages). Don't miss the ancient shrine to the sea goddess Benzaiten.
To reach the park, walk straight from the Kōen exit of Kichijōji Station, cross at the light and veer right at Marui (‘0101’) department store; the park is at the end of the lane. Along the way, you'll pass shops selling takeaway items such as yakitori (grilled chicken skewers) and hot dogs.
Inokashira BenzaitenSHINTO SHRINE
(井の頭弁財天 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Inokashira-kōen, Musashino-shi; h7am-4.30pm; dJR Sōbu-Chūō line to Kichijōji, Kōen exit)F
Benzaiten, one of Japan's eight lucky gods, is actually the octet's sole goddess (she's also the Japanese incarnation of the Hindi goddess Sarasvati and a patron of the arts). Her realm is the waters, which is why you'll find this shrine – said to have been founded in 1197 – on an island in Inokashira-kōen's central pond.
A warning to couples thinking of taking a row boat out on the waters: though Benzaiten has many positive qualities, she is known to be a jealous goddess and urban legend has it that couples break up after rowing here.
Harmonica-yokochōMARKET
(ハーモニカ横丁 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; http://hamoyoko.com; 1-2 Kichijōji-Honchō, Musashino-shi; dJR Sōbu-Chūō line to Kichijōji, north exit)
This covered market, with low ceilings and red paper chōchin (lanterns), originated as a black market after WWII. Some of the vendors – the fishmongers, for example – have been around for decades, but there are some trendy new boutiques and bars here too. There's a morning market every third Sunday (7am to 10am).
Reversible Destiny LoftsARCHITECTURE
(天命反転住宅; Tenmei Hanten Jūtaku GOOGLE MAP ; %0422-26-4966; www.rdloftsmitaka.com/english; 2-2-8 Ōsawa, Mitaka-shi; adult/child ¥2700/1000; c; dJR Sōbu-Chūō line to Mitaka, south exit)
Designed by husband and wife Arakawa Shūsaku (1936–2010) and Madeleine Gins (1941–2014) and completed in 2005, this housing complex certainly strikes against the mould: Created 'in memory of Helen Keller' the nine units have undulating, ridged floors, spherical dens and ceiling hooks for hammocks and swings. All this is meant to create a sensory experience beyond the visual (though the building is plenty colourful). Inside access is by tour only (check the website); the guides can speak some English.
Some units are occupied by residents, but others are available for short-term stays.
From JR Mitaka Station, take bus 51 or 52 (¥220, 15 minutes, every 10 to 15 minutes) from bus stop 2 on the station's south side and get off at Ōsawa Jūjiro (大沢十字路); you can see the building from the bus stop. Not all buses go this far, so show the driver where you want to go. Bus 1 (¥220, 25 minutes, every 10 to 15 minutes) goes here from Kichijōji Station (south exit, bus stop 3), alongside Inokashira-kōen.
WORTH A DETOUR
EDO-TOKYO OPEN AIR MUSEUM
The fantastic, yet little-known Edo-Tokyo Open Air Architecture Museum (江戸東京たてもの園 GOOGLE MAP ; www.tatemonoen.jp/english; 3-7-1 Sakura-chō, Koganei-shi; adult/child ¥400/free; h9.30am-5.30pm Tue-Sun Apr-Sep, to 4.30pm Oct-Mar; c; dJR Chūō line to Musashi-Koganei) has a collection of historic buildings rescued from Tokyo's modernising zeal. Among them are an Edo-era farmhouse, a modernist villa and a whole strip of early-20th-century shops, all of which you can enter. Take the Chūō line west to Musashi-Koganei (four stops past Kichijōji); from the station's north exit, take bus 2 or 3 for Koganei-kōen Nishi-guchi. It's a short walk through Koganei-kōen (Tokyo's second-largest park) to the museum.
5Eating
5Nakano & Kōenji
oTensukeTEMPURA¥
(天すけ MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-3223-8505; 3-22-7 Kōenji-kita, Suginami-ku; lunch/dinner from ¥1100/1600; hnoon-2.15pm & 6-10pm Tue-Fri, 11.30am-3pm & 6-10pm Sat & Sun; dJR Sōbu line to Kōenji, north exit)
An entirely legitimate candidate for eighth wonder of the modern world is Tensuke's tamago (egg) tempura. We don't know how the chef (who is quite a showman) does it, but the egg comes out batter-crisp on the outside and runny in the middle. It's served on rice with seafood and vegetable tempura as part of the tamago tempura teishoku (玉子天ぷら定食).
There's a blue and orange sign out front; expect to queue.
Daily ChikoICE CREAM¥
(デイリーチコ MAP GOOGLE MAP ; basement fl, Nakano Broadway, Nakano-ku; cone from ¥280; h10am-8pm; dJR Sōbu-Chūō line to Nakano, north exit)
A Nakano legend and one of Nakano Broadway's few original shops, this ice-cream counter features eight flavours of soft-serve – and you can get them all in one towering cone (¥490). Or just two or three, if you believe in moderation. The only-in-Japan yuzu (柚子; a kind of citrus) and ramune (ラムネ; cider) flavours are delicious.
oOkajōkiIZAKAYA¥¥
(陸蒸気 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-3228-1230; www.nakano-okajoki.com; 5-59-3 Nakano, Nakano-ku; lunch/dinner set menu ¥900/3980; h11.30am-3pm & 4-10pm Mon-Fri, 4-10pm Sat & Sun; dJR Sōbu-Chūō line to Nakano, north exit)
The yaki-zakana (焼き魚; grilled fish) lunch here is legendary. The fish are roasted around a large central hearth, and are served as a set with rice, miso soup and pickles. There's no English menu, but some common fish are shake (しゃけ; salmon), nishin (にしん; Pacific herring) and sab
a (さば; mackerel). Order at the kiosk at the entrance and expect a line.
For dinner, a set menu, which includes sashimi and grilled fish, makes ordering easy. Reservations recommended for dinner.
5Ogikubo
HarukiyaRAMEN¥
(春木屋 GOOGLE MAP ; www.haruki-ya.co.jp; 1-4-6 Kami-Ogi, Suginami-ku; ramen from ¥850; h11am-9pm; dJR Sōbu-Chūō line to Ogikubo, north exit)
Harukiya, open since 1949, is one of Tokyo's oldest ramen shops – so old that the menu here says 'chuka-soba' ('Chinese' soba, which the egg noodle dish was called when it was still an exotic import). The shop serves what has since come to be known as classic Tokyo-style ramen: a light chicken and fish stock seasoned with soy sauce.
5Kichijōji
TetchanYAKITORI¥
(てっちゃん MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 1-1-2 Kichijōji-Honchō, Musashino-shi; skewers from ¥110; h4-11pm; dJR Sōbu-Chūō line to Kichijōji, north exit)
Located inside the labyrinthine covered market Harmonica-yokochō, Tetchan has been drawing locals for years. But it's now become something of a tourist destination too, thanks to its new interior of acrylic 'ice' by architect Kuma Kengo (known for his more establishment works). There's no English menu, but safe bets include tsukune (chicken meatballs), buta bara (pork belly) and motsu-ni (stewed offal).
ManboshiIZAKAYA¥
(万星 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0422-44-2305; 3-31-16 Inokashira, Mitaka-shi; dishes ¥380-980, charge after 7pm ¥300; h5.30pm-3am; dKeiō Inokashira line to Inokashira-kōen)
Right at the tip of Inokashira-kōen (and steps from Inokashira-kōen Station) is this little tavern whose name means '10,000 stars'. Work your way through the park and then stop here for its sundown special: an assortment of three small dishes and a beer or cocktail (for ¥1000, 5pm to 7pm). There's no sign, but look for the red lantern out front.
Steak House SatouSTEAK¥¥
(ステーキハウス さとう MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0422-21-6464; www.shop-satou.com; 1-1-8 Kichijōji Honchō, Mitaka-shi; lunch set ¥1200-4000; dinner set ¥2600-10,000; h11am-2.30pm & 5-8.30pm Mon-Fri, 11am-8.30pm Sat & Sun; dJR Sōbu-Chūō line to Kichijōji, north exit)
This is a classic Japanese-style steak house, where the meat is cooked at the counter on a teppanyaki (iron hot plate), diced before serving and paired with rice, miso soup and pickles. It's also excellent value, considering the quality of the beef; even a 'splurge' on the chef's choice (lunch/dinner ¥4000/7000) is reasonable.
On the ground floor, there's a counter selling menchi-katsu (メンチカツ; ¥220), deep-fried, minced-beef croquettes. You can spot the shop by the regular queue for these.
LOCAL KNOWLEDGE
EATING & DRINKING STREETS
Neighbourhoods on the Chūō line are known for their cheerfully shabby nomiyagai (literally 'bar streets', but you can get food here, too). These are strips of tiny bars and eateries, often with no more than a few seats – sometimes with a makeshift table outside. The buildings date to the postwar reconstruction days, and though some have been spruced up, others look (much to the delight of customers) like they're held together with duct tape. For maximum Chūō-line atmosphere, check out Yanagi-dōri (柳通り GOOGLE MAP ; Nishi-Ogikubo, Suginami-ku; h5pm-late; dJR Sōbu-Chūō line to Nishi-Ogikubo, south exit), in Nishi-Ogikubo, and Kōenji Gādo-shita (高円寺ガード下 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Kōenji, Suginami-ku; h5pm-late; dJR Sōbu line to Kōenji, north exit), under the train tracks in Kōenji.
6Drinking & Nightlife
oCocktail ShobōBAR
(コクテイル書房 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 3-8-13 Kōenji-kita, Suginami-ku; h11.30am-3pm Wed-Sun, 5pm-midnight Mon-Sun; dJR Sōbu line to Kōenji, north exit)
At this bar-bookstore mash-up, the wooden counter doubles as a bookshelf and the local crowd comes as much to sip cocktails (from ¥450) as it does to flip through the selection of worn paperbacks. It's a cosy place, and like most bars in Kōenji, a labour of love. During lunch hours, curry and coffee are served.
Nantoka BarBAR
(なんとかバー MAP GOOGLE MAP ; http://trio4.nobody.jp/keita/shop/16_nantoka.html; 3-4-12 Kōenji-kita, Suginami-ku; drinks from ¥400; h7pm-late; dJR Sōbu line to Kōenji, north exit)
Part of the collective of spaces run by the Kōenji-based activist group Shirōto no Ran (Amateur Revolt), Nantoka Bar is about as uncommercial as a place selling drinks can get: there's no cover charge, drinks are generous and cheap and it's run on any given day by whoever feels like running it (which is sometimes no one at all).
Blue Sky CoffeeCAFE
(ブルースカイコーヒー MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 4-12 Inokashira, Mitaka-shi; coffee from ¥250; h1-5pm; dKeiō Inokashira line to Inokashira-kōen)
This tiny cafe looks like it could be the work of Studio Ghibli: a wooden cottage secreted in the woodsy perimeter of Inokashira-kōen concealing a shiny, state-of-the-art coffee roaster. The coffee is made with care, and is the cheapest around.
Uni StandTEAHOUSE
(ユニスタンド MAP GOOGLE MAP ; http://unistand.jp/; 1-16-1 Shimorenjaku, Mitaka-shi; drinks ¥480-560; h10am-7pm Wed-Mon; dJR Sōbu-Chūō line to Mitaka, south exit)
Taking a cue from the third-wave coffee movement, Uni Stand sells single-origin teas and carefully crafted matcha lattes (with high-grade powdered green tea from Uji). A little pretentious, sure, but also a welcome addition – a good cup of tea is surprisingly hard to find on the go in Tokyo.
3Entertainment
Star Pine's CafeLIVE MUSIC
(スターパインズカフェ MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0422-23-2251; www.mandala.gr.jp/spc.html; basement fl, 1-20-16 Kichijōji Honchō, Musashino-shi; tickets ¥2500-4000; dJR Sōbu-Chūō line to Kichijōji, north exit)
This is an attractive, intimate venue, sunk deep so the ceiling feels refreshingly high. The line-up is jazz, but that's a wide net, encompassing everything from standards to the quirky, avant-garde and experimental. The audience will likely be multi-generational and attentive. One drink minimum order (but the drinks are actually decent).
Ni Man Den AtsuLIVE MUSIC
(二万電圧 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.den-atsu.com; basement fl, 1-7-23 Kōenji-Minami, Suginami-ku; tickets ¥1800-4000; bMarunouchi line to Higashi-Kōenji, exit 3)
Kōenji's notorious punk venue has something loud going on most nights. This is a good place to start digging into the city's underground scene. Oddly enough, it's in the basement of a large, nondescript apartment complex. One drink (¥500) minimum order.
7Shopping
Mandarake ComplexANIME, MANGA
(まんだらけ MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.mandarake.co.jp; 5-52-15 Nakano, Nakano-ku; hnoon-8pm; dJR Sōbu-Chūō line to Nakano, north exit)
This is the original Mandarake – the go-to store for all things manga and anime – and the origin of Nakano Broadway's transformation into a geek's paradise. Once a small, secondhand comic-book store, Mandarake now has some 25 shops just inside Nakano Broadway. Each specialises in something different, be it books, cell art or figurines.
Kita-Kore BuildingFASHION & ACCESSORIES
(キタコレビル MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 3-4-11 Kōenji-kita, Suginami-ku; h1-8pm; dJR Sōbu line to Kōenji, north exit)
A must-see in Kōenji, the Kita-Kore Building is a dilapidated shack of a structure housing a handful of seriously outré shops. Really, it's more art installation than shopping destination, though we do know of at least one person who's actually bought stuff here – Lady Gaga.
PukuPukuANTIQUES
(ぷくぷく MAP GOOGLE MAP ; http://pukupukukichi.blogspot.jp/; 2-26-2 Kichijōji Honchō, Musashino-shi; h11.30am-7.30pm; dJR Sōbu-Chūō line to Kichijōji, north exit)
This cluttered little antiques shop stocks ceramics from the early Shōwa (昭和; 1926–89) period, through Taishō (大正; 1912–26) and Meiji (明治; 1868–1912) and all the way back to old Edo (江戸; 1603–1868). Flip the dishes over for a sticker that indicates the period. Hundred-year-old saucers can be had for as little as ¥1000.
SokkyōVINTAGE
(即興 MA
P GOOGLE MAP ; www.sokkyou.net; 102 Nakanishi Apt Bldg, 3-59-14 Kōenji-minami, Suginami-ku; h1-9pm, holidays irregular; dJR Sōbu line to Kōenji, south exit)
As far as vintage shops go, Sokkyō is more like a gallery of cool. The stock is impeccably edited down to a look that is both dreamy and modern. That said, we may have sent you on an impossible mission: the shop is unmarked in an ordinary house down a tiny alley. When it's open, however, an article of clothing will be hanging outside.
LOCAL KNOWLEDGE
SHOPPING STREETS
Shōtengai (商店街), shopping streets, have traditionally been the lifeblood of Japanese neighbourhoods. These often pedestrian-only strips, usually connect to a train station, are lined with sundries shops and takeaway counters. Their supremacy has been challenged (often successfully) in the past few decades by supermarkets and big-box stores but shōtengai loyalists remain.
While shōtengai can be nothing more than a short alley, in some neighbourhoods along the Chūō line they are grand covered arcades with high ceilings and (what now appear very retro) decorative flourishes. Nakano Sun Mall (中野サンモール MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 5-64 Nakano, Nakano-ku; dJR Sōbu-Chūō line to Nakano, north exit) and Asagaya Pearl Centre (阿佐ヶ谷パールセンター GOOGLE MAP ; www.asagaya.or.jp; Asagaya-Minami, Suginami-ku; dJR Sōbu-Chūō line to Asagaya, south exit) are the two most famous ones.