Lonely Planet Tokyo
Page 26
oPopeyePUB
(ポパイ MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-3633-2120; www.40beersontap.com; 2-18-7 Ryōgoku, Sumida-ku; h11.30am-4pm & 5-11pm Mon-Sat; dJR Sōbu line to Ryōgoku, west exit)
Popeye boasts an astounding 70 beers on tap, including the world's largest selection of Japanese beers – from Echigo Weizen to Hitachino Nest Espresso Stout. The happy-hour deal (5pm to 8pm) offers select brews with free plates of pizza, sausages and other munchables. It's extremely popular and fills up fast; get here early to grab a seat.
From the station’s west exit, take a left on the main road and pass under the tracks; take the second left and look for Popeye on the right.
'Cuzn HomegroundBAR
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.homeground.jpn.com; 2-17-9 Asakusa, Taitō-ku; beer ¥800; h11am-6am; W; bGinza line to Tawaramachi, exit 3)
Run by a wild gang of local hippies, 'Cuzn is the kind of bar where anything can happen: a barbecue, a jam session or all-night karaoke, for example.
EfCAFE
(エフ MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-3841-0442; www.gallery-ef.com; 2-19-18 Kaminari-mon, Taitō-ku; coffee ¥550; h11am-midnight Mon, Wed, Thu & Sat, to 2am Fri, to 10pm Sun; bGinza line to Asakusa, exit 2)
Set in a 19th-century wooden warehouse that beat the 1923 earthquake and WWII, this wonderfully cosy space serves coffee, tea and, after 6pm, cocktails and beer. Be sure to check out the gallery in the stone kura (storeroom) out back.
Kamiya BarBAR
(神谷バー MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-3841-5400; www.kamiya-bar.com; 1-1-1 Asakusa, Taitō-ku; h11.30am-10pm Wed-Mon; bGinza line to Asakusa, exit 3)
One of Tokyo’s oldest Western-style bars, Kamiya opened in 1880 and is still hugely popular – though probably more so today for its enormous, cheap draught beer (¥1050 for a litre). Its real speciality, however, is Denki Bran (¥270), a herbal liquor that’s been produced in-house for more than a century. Order at the counter, then give your tickets to the server.
Asahi Sky RoomBAR
(アサヒスカイルーム MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-5608-5277; http://r.gnavi.co.jp/a170900/menu10; 22F, Asahi Super Dry Bldg, 1-23-1 Azuma-bashi, Sumida-ku; beer ¥720; h10am-9pm; bGinza line to Asakusa, exit 4)
Spend the day at the religious sites and end at the Asahi altar, on the 22nd floor of the golden-tinged Asahi Super Dry Building. The venue itself isn't noteworthy, but the views over the Sumida River are spectacular, especially at sunset.
KAPPABASHI KITCHENWARE TOWN
Kappabashi-dōri (合羽橋通り MAP GOOGLE MAP ; bGinza line to Tawaramachi, exit 3) is the country’s largest wholesale restaurant-supply and kitchenware district. Gourmet accessories include bamboo steamer baskets, lacquer trays, neon signs and chōchin (paper lanterns). It's also where restaurants get their freakishly realistic plastic food models. Ganso Shokuhin Sample-ya (元祖食品サンプル屋 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0120-17-1839; www.ganso-sample.com; 3-7-6 Nishi-Asakusa, Taitō-ku; h10am-5.30pm; bGinza line to Tawaramachi, exit 3) has a showroom of tongue-in-cheek ones, plus key chains and kits to make your own.
3Entertainment
oRyōgoku KokugikanSPECTATOR SPORT
(両国国技館; Ryōgoku Sumo Stadium MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-3623-5111; www.sumo.or.jp; 1-3-28 Yokoami, Sumida-ku; ¥2200-14,800; dJR Sōbu line to Ryōgoku, west exit)
If you’re in town when a tournament is on – for 15 days each January, May and September – catch the big boys in action at Japan’s largest sumo stadium. Doors open at 8am, but the action doesn’t heat up until the senior wrestlers hit the ring around 2pm. Tickets can be bought online one month before the start of the tournament.
Around 200 general-admission tickets are sold on the day of the match from the box office in front of the stadium. You'll have to line up very early (say 6am) on the last couple of days of the tournament to snag one.
If you get there in the morning when the stadium is still pretty empty, you can usually sneak down to the box seats. You can rent a radio (¥100 fee, plus ¥2000 deposit) to listen to commentary in English. Stop by the basement banquet hall to sample chanko-nabe (the protein-rich stew eaten by the wrestlers) for just ¥300 a bowl.
OiwakeTRADITIONAL MUSIC
(追分 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-3844-6283; www.oiwake.info; 3-28-11 Nishi-Asakusa, Taitō-ku; admission ¥2000 plus 1 food item & 1 drink; h5.30pm-midnight; dTsukuba Express to Asakusa, exit 1)
Oiwake is one of Tokyo's few minyō izakaya, pubs where traditional folk music is performed. It's a homey place, where the waitstaff and the musicians – who play tsugaru-jamisen (a banjo-like instrument), hand drums and bamboo flute – are one and the same. Sets start at 7pm and 9pm; children are welcome for the early show. Seating is on tatami.
Asakusa Engei HallCOMEDY
(浅草演芸ホール MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-3841-6545; www.asakusaengei.com; 1-43-12 Asakusa, Taitō-ku; adult/student ¥2800/2300; hshows 11.40am-4.30pm & 4.40-9pm; bGinza line to Tawaramachi, exit 3)
Asakusa was once full of theatres like this one, where traditional rakugo (comedic monologues) and other forms of comedy are performed. There are also jugglers, magicians and the like. It’s all in Japanese, but the linguistic confusion is mitigated by lively facial expressions and props, which help translate comic takes on universal human experiences.
7Shopping
oMarugoto NipponFOOD & DRINKS
(まるごとにっぽん MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-3845-0510; www.marugotonippon.com; 2-6-7 Asakusa, Taitō-ku; h10am-8pm; bGinza line to Tawaramachi, exit 3)
Think of this as a modern mini department store, showcasing the best of Japan's best in terms of speciality food and drink (ground floor) and arts and crafts (2nd floor). There are also plenty of tasting samples, and cafes and restaurants on the 3rd and 4th floors should you want something more substantial.
oTokyo HotarudoVINTAGE
(東京蛍堂 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-3845-7563; http://tokyohotarudo.com; 1-41-8 Asakusa, Taitō-ku; h11am-8pm Wed-Sun; dTsukuba Express to Asakusa, exit 5)
This curio shop is run by an eccentric young man who prefers to dress as if the 20th century hasn't come and gone already. If you think that sounds marvellous, then you'll want to check out his collection of vintage dresses and bags, antique lamps, watches and decorative objet.
The entrance is tricky: look for a vertical black sign with a pointing finger.
KurodayaSTATIONERY
(黒田屋 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-3844-7511; 1-2-5 Asakusa, Taitō-ku; h10am-6pm; bGinza line to Asakusa, exit 3)
Since 1856, Kurodaya has been specialising in washi (traditional Japanese paper) and products made from paper such as cards, kites and papier-mâché folk-art figures. It sells its own designs and many others from across Japan.
Yonoya KushihoFASHION & ACCESSORIES
(よのや櫛舗 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 1-37-10 Asakusa, Taitō-ku; h10.30am-6pm Thu-Tue; bGinza line to Asakusa, exit 1)
Even in a neighbourhood where old is not out of place, Yonoya Kushiho stands out: this little shop has been selling handmade boxwood combs since 1717. Yonoya also sells old-fashioned hair ornaments (worn with the elaborate up-dos of courtesans in the past) and modern trinkets.
FujiyaARTS & CRAFTS
(ふじ屋 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-3841-2283; www.asakusa-noren.ne.jp/tenugui-fujiya/sp.html; 2-2-15 Asakusa, Taitō-ku; h10am-6pm Wed-Mon; bGinza line to Asakusa, exit 1)
Fujiya specialises in tenugui: dyed cloths of thin cotton that can be used as tea towels, handkerchiefs, gift wrapping (the list goes on – they're surprisingly versatile). Here they come in traditional designs and humorous modern ones.
BengaraARTS & CRAFTS
(べんがら MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-3841-6613; www.bengara.com; 1-35-6 Asakusa, Taitō-ku; h10am-6pm Mon-Fri, to 7pm Sat & Sun, closed 3rd Thu of month; bGinza line to Asakusa, exit 1)
Noren are the curtains that hang in front of shop doors. This store sells beautiful ones, made of linen and coloured with natural dyes (such as indigo or persimmon) or decorated with ink-brush paintings. There are smaller items too, such as pouches and book covers,
made of traditional textiles.
KURAMAE'S CRAFTSHOPS
A short walk south of Asakusa and beside the Sumida-gawa is Tokyo's old rice granary district of Kuramae (蔵前). The low rents and ingrained culture of craftsmanship here have inspired a new generation of entrepreneurs to make traditional crafts but with a contemporary twist. As it eschews the flash of other Tokyo shopping districts, an amble around the small boutiques and ateliers here is a pleasure. Start with Koncent ( GOOGLE MAP ; %03-3862-6018; www.koncent.net; 2-4-5 Kuramae, Taitō-ku; h11am-7pm; bAsakusa line to Kuramae, exit A3), a trendy homewares and gift boutique on Edo-dōri, stocking mainly Japanese design products. It serves coffee and produces a detailed, free map (in Japanese) that covers many of the area's interesting businesses. Move on to Kokusai-dōri to shop for customised notebooks and other stationery at Kakimori (カキモリ GOOGLE MAP ; %03-3864-3898; www.kakimori.com; 4-20-12 Kuramae, Taitō-ku; bAsakusa line to Kuramae, exit 3); naturally dyed clothing and accessories at Maito (マイト GOOGLE MAP ; %03-3863-1128; www.maito.info; 4-14-2 Kuramae, Taitō-ku; bAsakusa line to Kuramae, exit A3); and lovely leather goods at Camera ( GOOGLE MAP ; %03-5825-4170; http://camera1010.tokyo; 4-21-8 Kuramae, Taitō-ku; h11am-6pm Tue-Sun; bAsakusa line to Kuramae, exit A3), where you can also have something to drink and eat.
2Activities
oWanariyaTRADITIONAL CRAFT
(和なり屋 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-5603-9169; www.wanariya.jp; 1-8-10 Senzoku, Taitō-ku; indigo dyeing/weaving from ¥1920/1980; h10am-5pm Thu-Tue; bHibiya line to Iriya, exit 1)
A team of young and friendly Japanese runs this indigo dyeing and traditional hand-loom-weaving workshop where you can learn the crafts and have a go yourself in under an hour or so. It's a fantastic way to make your own unique souvenir, with a whole range of items you can dye, from tenugui (thin cotton towels) to canvas sneakers.
oMokuhankanTRADITIONAL CRAFT
(木版館 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %070-5011-1418; http://mokuhankan.com/parties; 2nd fl, 1-41-8 Asakusa, Taitō-ku; per person ¥2000; h10am-5.30pm Wed-Mon; dTsukuba Express to Asakusa, exit 5)
Try your hand at making ukiyo-e (woodblock prints) at this studio run by expat David Bull. Hour-long 'print parties' are great fun and take place daily; sign up online. There's a shop here too, where you can see Bull's and Jed Henry's humorous Ukiyo-e Heroes series – prints featuring video-game characters in traditional settings.
Tokyo KitchenCOOKING
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %090-9104-4329; www.asakusa-tokyokitchen.com; 502 Ayumi Bldg, 1-11-1 Hanakawado, Taitō-ku; course from ¥7560; bGinza line to Asakusa, exit 4A)
English-speaking Yoshimi is an Asakusa-based cook who teaches small groups of visitors how to make a range of Japanese dishes. Her menu list is broad and includes mosaic sushi rolls, tempura, ramen and gyōza. Vegetarians and those with gluten intolerance are catered for too. Yoshimi will also meet you at the subway exit and guide you to her kitchen.
Jakotsu-yuBATHHOUSE
(蛇骨湯 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-3841-8645; www.jakotsuyu.co.jp; 1-11-11 Asakusa, Taitō-ku; adult/child ¥460/180; h1pm-midnight Wed-Mon; bGinza line to Tawaramachi, exit 3)
Unlike most sentō (public baths), the tubs here are filled with pure hot-spring water, naturally the colour of weak tea. Another treat is the lovely, lantern-lit, rock-framed rotemburo (outdoor bath). Jakotsu-yu is a welcoming place; it has English signage and doesn't have a policy against tattoos. It's an extra ¥200 for the sauna, ¥140 for a small towel.
HanayashikiAMUSEMENT PARK
(花やしき MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-3842-8780; www.hanayashiki.net/index.html; 2-28-1 Asakusa, Taitō-ku; adult/child ¥1000/500; h10am-6pm; bGinza line to Asakusa, exit 1)
Japan's oldest amusement park has creaky old carnival rides and heaps of vintage charm. Once you're inside, you can buy tickets for rides (which cost a few hundred yen each). A haunted-house attraction here allegedly housed a real ghost that is said to still appear on the grounds.
Odaiba & Tokyo Bay
Sights
Eating
Drinking & Nightlife
Shopping
Sports & Activities
Odaiba & Tokyo Bay
Neighbourhood Top Five
1Odaiba Kaihin-kōen Seeing Tokyo's glittering waterfront and the lantern-festooned pleasure boats gliding languidly across the water from this seaside promenade.
2Ōedo Onsen Monogatari Soaking in some honest-to-goodness natural hot springs (and experiencing an onsen theme park) right here on the bay.
3National Museum of Emerging Science & Innovation Meeting the robots of the future at this museum of cutting-edge technology.
4Archi-Depot Getting an up-close look at more than 100 works by leading Japanese architects – all in one room, at this museum for architectural models.
5Bay Cruises Gliding atop Tokyo Bay on a traditional flat-bottomed boat (yakatabune) or on the manga-inspired party cruise ship, Jicoo the Floating Bar.
Explore Odaiba & Tokyo Bay
In central Tokyo, it’s easy to forget that the city started as a seaside town. Not so on Odaiba, a collection of artificial islands on Tokyo Bay tethered to the mainland by the 798m Rainbow Bridge. Visit in the evening for romantic twinkling views of the city skyline. The bay can also be appreciated from the water on pleasure cruises.
Odaiba, largely developed in the 1990s, is an alternative vision of Tokyo; one with buildings on a grand scale, broad streets, spacious parks and waterfront views – even a beach! There are major attractions here, such as Ōedo Onsen Monogatari and the National Museum of Emerging Science & Innovation; both can easily take up a half-day. Tokyo's youngsters and families can't get enough of Odaiba's several malls, with masses of chain stores, restaurants and amusements under one roof. They’re less interesting for foreign tourists; however, if you’re travelling with kids, these all-in-one complexes can be excellent on rainy days.
Tennōzu Isle, historically a warehouse district, offers a different vibe, with the new Archi-Depot museum, galleries, street art and canalside eateries. Several of the new sites for the 2020 Summer Olympics will be also be on Tokyo Bay; the new fish market will be in Toyosu, should the move from Tsukiji go ahead.
Local Life
ABoat Cruises Groups of friends and colleagues organise private parties on the bay, particularly during the summer and winter holidays.
AConventions Crowds descend on Tokyo Big Sight for major conventions such as the comic market Comiket (www.comiket.co.jp) and Tokyo Game Show.
ADate Spot Odaiba's malls are classic date destinations for Tokyo teens.
Getting There & Away
AMonorail The Yurikamome line runs from Shimbashi through Odaiba to Toyosu; stops include Odaiba Kaihin-kōen, Daiba, Telecom Center and Kokusai-tenjijō-seimon.
ATrain The Rinkai line runs from Ōsaki through Odaiba to Shin-Kiba, stopping at Tennōzu Isle, Tokyo Teleport and Kokusai-tenjijō stations.
ABoat Tokyo Cruise water buses run between Odaiba Kaihin-kōen (Odaiba Seaside Park), Hinode Pier and Asakusa. A shorter, infrequent route connects Palette Town and Tokyo Big Sight.
Lonely Planet's Top Tip
One of the most exhilarating (if not mildly terrifying) ways to experience Odaiba is by driving a go-kart over Rainbow Bridge. If you want to sign up for a tour with Maricar, you must have a valid international driver's license – which you'll need to acquire from your home country.
Best Places to Eat
A TY Harbor Brewery
A Bills
A Hibiki
Best Views
A Odaiba Kaihin-kōen
A Jicoo the Floating Bar
A Fuji TV Building
A Yurikamome line
A Dai-kanransha
Best for Kids
A National Museum of Emerging Science & Innovation
A Tokyo Joypolis
A Mega Web
A Tokyo Disney Resort
1Sights
1Odaiba
oNational Museum of Emerging Science & Innovation (
Miraikan)MUSEUM
(未来館 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.miraikan.jst.go.jp; 2-3-6 Aomi, Kōtō-ku; adult/child ¥620/210; h10am-5pm Wed-Mon; W; dYurikamome line to Telecom Center)
Miraikan means ‘hall of the future’, and exhibits here present the science and technology that will (possibly!) shape the years to come. Lots of hands-on displays make this a great place for kids, while a new multilingual smartphone app makes a game out of visiting. Don't miss the demonstrations of humanoid robot ASIMO and the lifelike android Otonaroid. The Gaia dome theatre/planetarium (adult/child ¥300/100) has an English audio option and is popular; book online one week in advance.
Odaiba Kaihin-kōenPARK
(お台場海浜公園; Odaiba Marine Park MAP GOOGLE MAP ; http://www.tptc.co.jp/en/c_park/01_02; 1-4-1 Daiba, Minato-ku; h24hr; dYurikamome line to Odaiba Kaihin-kōen)
One of the best views of Tokyo is from this park’s promenades and elevated walkways – especially at night when old-fashioned yakatabune (low-slung wooden pleasure boats), decorated with lanterns, traverse the bay. Also here you'll find an 800m-long artificial beach and an 11m replica of the Statue of Liberty, plus plenty of teens and students kicking around.