Lonely Planet Tokyo
Page 28
When to Go
To time your arrival for dawn you can either start up in the afternoon, stay overnight in a mountain hut and continue early in the morning, or climb the whole way at night. You do not want to arrive on the top too long before dawn, as it will be very cold and windy, even at the height of summer.
It's a very busy mountain during the two-month climbing season. To avoid the worst of the crush head up on a weekday, or start earlier during the day.
Authorities strongly caution against climbing outside the regular season, when the weather is highly unpredictable and first-aid stations on the mountain are closed. Outside of the climbing season, check weather conditions carefully before setting out, bring appropriate equipment, do not climb alone, and be prepared to retreat at any time. A guide will be invaluable. Once snow or ice is on the mountain, Fuji becomes a very serious and dangerous undertaking and should only be attempted by those with winter mountaineering equipment and plenty of experience. Off-season climbers should register with the local police department; fill out the form at the Kawaguchi-ko Tourist Information Centers.
Mountain Huts
Mountain huts, at each station on the Kawaguchi-ko Trail, offer spartan sleeping conditions and hot meals. Reservations are recommended and are essential on weekends. These two on the Kawaguchi-ko Trail usually have English-speaking staff:
Taishikan (太子館 GOOGLE MAP ; %0555-22-1947; www.mfi.or.jp/w3/home0/taisikan; per person incl 2 meals from ¥8500) Vegetarian or halal meals possible with advance request.
Fujisan Hotel (富士山ホテル GOOGLE MAP ; %0555-22-0237; www.fujisanhotel.com; per person excl/incl 2 meals from ¥5950/8350) One of the largest and most popular huts.
Resources
Climbing Mt Fuji (www17.plala.or.jp/climb_fujiyama) and the Official Web Site for Mt Fuji Climbing (www.fujisan-climb.jp) are good online resources. The Climbing Mt Fuji brochure is available at the Kawaguchi-ko Tourist Information Center ( GOOGLE MAP ; %0555-72-6700; h8.30am-5.30pm Sun-Fri, to 7pm Sat).
Tours
Discover Japan Tours (www.discover-japan-tours.com/en; 2-day Mt Fuji tours per person ¥10,000) Guided tours from Tokyo for groups of two or more, and specialising in less-frequented routes.
Fuji Mountain Guides (%042-445-0798; www.fujimountainguides.com; 2-day Mt Fuji tours per person ¥44,000) Excellent tours run both in and out of season by highly experienced and professional American bilingual guides.
Fuji-spotting
Outside the climbing season, you can hunt for views of Mt Fuji in the Fuji Five Lake region, where placid lakes, formed by ancient eruptions, serve as natural reflecting pools. Kawaguchi-ko, the most the popular lake, has excellent views from its north side. Winter and spring are your best bet for catching a glimpse, though often the snow-capped peak is visible only in the morning before it retreats behind its cloud curtain.
On the lower eastern edge of the lake, the Kachi Kachi Yama Ropeway (カチカチ山ロープウェイ GOOGLE MAP ; www.kachikachiyama-ropeway.com; 1163-1 Azagawa; one way/return adult ¥450/800, child ¥230/400; h9am-5pm) runs to the Fuji Viewing Platform at 1104m, which also offers (weather permitting) a dramatic portrait of the mountain. Several hiking trails through the foothills offer similarly rewarding vistas (with smaller crowds). Ask for a map at the Kawaguchi-ko Tourist Information Center.
Frequent buses to Kawaguchi-ko (¥1750, one hour and 45 minutes) run from Shinjuku Bus Terminal.
Getting There
During the climbing season, Keiō Dentetsu Bus (%03-5376-2222; www.highwaybus.com) runs direct buses (¥2700, 2½ hours; reservations necessary) from the Shinjuku Bus Station to Fuji Subaru Line Fifth Station (aka Kawaguchi-ko Fifth Station).
Up Close
Buses to the Fifth Station from Kawaguchi-ko Station (one way/return ¥1540/2100, one hour) run roughly mid-April to early December, so even if you can't climb you can still get up close to the hulking volcano.
Check summit weather conditions at www.snow-forecast.com/resorts/Mount-Fuji/6day/top before planning a climb. This is a must outside the official season.
Meet Up
With helpful English-speaking staff, K's House Mt Fuji ( GOOGLE MAP ; %0555-83-5556; http://kshouse.jp; 6713-108 Funatsu; dm from ¥2500, d with/without bathroom from ¥8800/7200; pniW), in Kawaguchi-ko, is an excellent place to stay near the mountain and to meet fellow travellers/climbers. Note that it fills up fast during the climbing season.
Ashino-ko, in Hakone, is another famous Mt Fuji viewing spot. A classic photo-op is the mountain reflecting in the lake with the red torii (shrine gate) of Hakone-jinja rising from the water in the foreground.
Nikkō
Explore
Ancient moss clinging to a stone wall; rows of perfectly aligned stone lanterns; vermilion gates; and towering cedars: this is only a pathway in Nikkō (日光), a sanctuary that enshrines the glories of the Edo period (1600–1868). Scattered among hilly woodlands, Nikkō is one of Japan's major attractions, its key World Heritage Site temples and shrines an awesome display of wealth and power by the Tokugawa shogunate.
The Best…
ASight Tōshō-gū
APlace to Eat Gyōshintei
APlace to Drink Nikkō Coffee
Top Tip
In high season (summer and autumn) and at weekends Nikkō can be extremely crowded. Spending the night here allows for an early start before the crowds arrive.
Getting There & Away
Nikkō is best reached from Tokyo via the Tōbu Nikkō line from Asakusa Station. You can usually get last-minute seats on the hourly reserved tokkyū (limited-express) trains (¥2700, 1¾ hours). Kaisoku (rapid) trains (¥1360, 2½ hours, hourly from 6.20am to 5.30pm) require no reservation, but you may have to change at Shimo-imaichi. Be sure to ride in the last two cars to reach Nikkō (some cars may separate at an intermediate stop).
Getting Around
Tōbu Nikkō Station is southeast of the shrine area within a block of Nikkō's main road (Rte 119). From the station, follow this road uphill for 20 minutes to reach the shrine area, past restaurants, souvenir shops and the main tourist information centre, or take a bus to the Shin-kyō bus stop (¥200). Bus stops are announced in English.
Need to Know
Area Code 0288 ALocation 120km north of Tokyo
A Tourist Office ( GOOGLE MAP ; %0288-54-2496; www.nikko-jp.org; 591 Gokomachi; h9am-5pm; W)
Nikkō
1Sights
1Futarasan-jinjaA1
2GōhonshaB1
3GōjūnotōB2
4Hōmotsu-denC3
5Honji-dōB1
6Ishi-doriiB2
7Nikkō Tōshō-gū Museum of ArtC1
8OkumiyaB1
9Omote-monB2
10Rinnō-jiC2
11Sakashita-monB1
12SanjinkoB2
13Shin-kyōD3
14ShinkyūshaB2
15Shōyō-enC3
16Taiyūin-byōA1
17Tōshō-gūB1
18Yōmei-monB1
5Eating
19GyōshinteiC2
20Hippari DakoD3
21Hongū CafeD3
6Drinking & Nightlife
22Nikkō CoffeeA3
4Sleeping
23Nikkorisou BackpackersD3
1Sights
oTōshō-gūSHINTO SHRINE
(東照宮 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.toshogu.jp; 2301 Sannai; adult/child ¥1300/450; h8am-4.30pm Apr-Oct, to 3.30pm Nov-Mar)
A World Heritage Site, Tōshō-gū is a brilliantly decorative shrine in a beautiful natural setting. Among its notable features is the dazzling 'Sunset Gate' Yōmei-mon.
As the shrine gears up for its 400th anniversary, a major restoration program is underway. Until at least 2018, the Yōmei-mon and Shimojinko (one of the Three Sacred Storehouses) will be obscured by scaffolding. Don't be put off visiting, as Tōshō-gū remains an impressive sight. A new museum building also debuted in 2015.
The stone steps of Omotesandō lead past the towering stone torii (entrance gate)
, Ishi-dorii ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ), and the Gōjūnotō (五重塔; Five Storey Pagoda MAP GOOGLE MAP ), a 1819 reconstruction of the mid-17th-century original, to Omote-mon (表門 MAP GOOGLE MAP ), Tōshō-gū's main gateway, protected on either side by Deva kings.
In Tōshō-gū's initial courtyard are the Sanjinko (三神庫; Three Sacred Storehouses MAP GOOGLE MAP ); on the upper storey of the Kamijinko (upper storehouse) are relief carvings of 'imaginary elephants' by an artist who had never seen the real thing. Nearby is the Shinkyūsha (神厩舎; Sacred Stable MAP GOOGLE MAP ), adorned with relief carvings of monkeys. The allegorical 'hear no evil, see no evil, speak no evil' simians demonstrate three principles of Tendai Buddhism.
Further into Tōshō-gū's precincts, to the left of the drum tower, is Honji-dō (本地堂 MAP GOOGLE MAP ), a hall known for the painting on its ceiling of the Nakiryū (Crying Dragon). Monks demonstrate the hall's acoustical properties by clapping two sticks together. The dragon 'roars' (a bit of a stretch) when the sticks are clapped beneath its mouth, but not elsewhere.
Once the scaffolding comes off in 2018, the Yōmei-mon (陽明門; Sunset Gate MAP GOOGLE MAP ) will be grander than ever, its gold leaf and intricate, coloured carvings and paintings of flowers, dancing girls, mythical beasts and Chinese sages all shiny and renewed. Worrying that the gate's perfection might arouse envy in the gods, those responsible for its construction had the final supporting pillar placed upside down as a deliberate error.
Gōhonsha (御本社 MAP GOOGLE MAP ), the main inner courtyard, includes the Honden (本殿; Main Hall) and Haiden (拝殿; Hall of Worship). Inside these halls are paintings of the 36 immortal poets of Kyoto, and a ceiling-painting pattern from the Momoyama period; note the 100 dragons, each different. Fusuma (sliding door) paintings depict a kirin (a mythical beast that's part giraffe and part dragon).
To the right of the Gōhonsha is Sakashita-mon (坂下門 MAP GOOGLE MAP ), into which is carved a tiny wooden sculpture of the Nemuri-neko that's famous for its lifelike appearance (though admittedly the attraction is lost on some visitors). From here it's an uphill path through towering cedars to the appropriately solemn Okumiya (奥宮 MAP GOOGLE MAP ), Ieyasu's tomb.
Bypassed by nearly everyone at Tōshō-gū is the marvellous Nikkō Tōshō-gū Museum of Art (日光東照宮美術館 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0288-54-0560; www.toshogu.jp/shisetsu/bijutsu.html; 2301 Yamanouchi; adult/child ¥800/400; h9am-5pm Apr-Oct, to 4pm Nov-Mar) in the old shrine offices, showcasing fine paintings on its doors, sliding screens, frames and decorative scrolls, some by masters including Yokoyama Taikan and Nakamura Gakuryo. Follow the path to the right of Omote-mon to find it.
Rinnō-jiBUDDHIST TEMPLE
(輪王寺 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0288-54-0531; http://rinnoji.or.jp; 2300 Yamanouchi; adult/child ¥400/200; h8am-5pm Apr-Oct, to 4pm Nov-Mar)
This Tendai-sect temple was founded 1200 years ago by Shōdō Shōnin. Rinnō-ji's Hōmotsu-den (宝物殿, Treasure Hall MAP GOOGLE MAP ; ¥300; h8am-5pm, to 4pm Nov-Mar) houses some 6000 treasures associated with the temple; the separate admission ticket includes entrance to the Shōyō-en (逍遥園 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; in combination with Hōmotsu-den ¥300; h8am-5pm Apr-Oct, to 4pm Nov-Mar) strolling garden.
Taiyūin-byōSHINTO SHRINE
(大猷院廟 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; adult/child ¥550/250; h8am-4.30pm Apr-Oct, to 3.30pm Nov-Mar)
Ieyasu's grandson Iemitsu (1604–51) is buried here, and although the shrine houses many of the same elements as Tōshō-gū (storehouses, drum tower, Chinese-style gates etc), the more intimate scale and setting in a cryptomeria forest make it very appealing.
Look for dozens of lanterns donated by daimyō (domain lords), and the gate Niō-mon, whose guardian deities have a hand up (to welcome those with pure hearts) and a hand down (to suppress those with impure hearts).
Inside the main hall, 140 dragons painted on the ceiling are said to carry prayers to the heavens; those holding pearls are on their way up, and those without are returning to gather more prayers.
Futarasan-jinjaSHINTO SHRINE
(二荒山神社 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.futarasan.jp; adult/child ¥200/100)
Set among cypress trees, this very atmospheric shrine was founded by Shōdō Shōnin; the current building dates from 1619, making it Nikkō's oldest. It's the protector shrine of Nikkō itself, dedicated to Nantai-san (2484m); the mountain's consort, Nyotai-san; and their mountainous progeny, Tarō. There are other branches of the shrine on Nantai-san and by Chūzenji-ko.
Nikkō Tamozawa Imperial Villa Memorial ParkHISTORIC SITE
(日光田母沢御用邸記念公園 GOOGLE MAP ; %53-6767; www.park-tochigi.com/tamozawa; 8-27 Hon-chō; adult/child ¥510/260; h9am-5pm Wed-Mon, to 4.30pm Nov-Mar)
About 1km west of Shin-kyō bridge, this splendidly restored imperial palace of more than 100 rooms showcases superb artisanship, with parts of the complex dating from the Edo, Meiji and Taishō eras. Apart from the construction skills involved there are brilliantly detailed screen paintings and serene garden views framed from nearly every window.
Visit in autumn to see the gardens at their most spectacular.
Takinō-jinjaSHINTO SHRINE
(滝尾神社 GOOGLE MAP )F
About 1km north of Futarasan-jinja, close by the Shiraito Falls, is this serene, delightfully less crowded shrine that has a history stretching back to 820. The stone gate, called Undameshi-no-torii, dates back to 1696. Before entering, it's customary to try your luck tossing three stones through the small hole near the top.
Maps available at the tourist offices show the route to the shrine, which also passes the tomb of Shōdō Shōnin.
Kanman-ga-Fuchi AbyssPARK
(憾満ガ淵 GOOGLE MAP )
Escape the crowds along this wooded path lined with a collection of Jizō statues (the small stone effigies of the Buddhist protector of travellers and children). After passing the Shin-kyō bridge (神橋 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; crossing fee ¥300), follow the Daiya-gawa west for about 1km, crossing another bridge near Jyoko-ji temple en route. It's said that if you try to count the statues there and again on the way back, you'll end up with a different number, hence the nickname 'Bake-jizō' (ghost Jizō).
WORTH A DETOUR
CHūZEN-JI ONSEN & YUMOTO ONSEN
The highlands west of Nikkō, part of Nikkō National Park, offer travellers a chance to stretch their legs and then soak them in hot springs. The village of Chūzen-ji Onsen (中禅寺温泉), spread along the 161m-deep and fabulously blue lake Chūzenji-ko (中禅寺湖), has several, admittedly mostly fading, resort hotels that nonetheless have excellent bathhouses, which day trippers can use for ¥1000 to ¥1500.
From Chūzenji you can embark on an easy three-hour hike along the Senjōgahara Shizen-kenkyu-rō (戦場ヶ原自然研究路; Senjōgahara Plain Nature Trail GOOGLE MAP ). Take a Yumoto-bound bus and get off at Ryūzu-no-taki (竜頭ノ滝; ¥460, 20 minutes), a lovely waterfall overlooked by a teahouse that marks the trailhead. The hike traverses the picturesque marshland of Senjōgahara (mainly on wooden plank paths), alongside the 75m-high falls of Yu-daki (湯滝) to the lake Yu-no-ko (湯の湖), then around to the hot-springs village Yumoto Onsen (湯元温泉). Here seek out the humble bathhouse (with extremely hot water) at the temple Onsen-ji (温泉時 GOOGLE MAP ; adult/child ¥500/300; h9am-4pm); look for a row of stone lanterns near the final village bus stop that leads to the temple.
The Tōbu Nikkō Bus Free Pass (adult/child ¥3000/1500) is valid for two-days and allows unlimited rides between Nikkō, Chūzen-ji Onsen and Yumoto Onsen, including the World Heritage Site area.
5Eating & Drinking
Hongū CafeCAFE¥
(本宮カフェ MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0288-54-1669; www.hongucafe.com; 2384 Sannai; espresso ¥350, dessert sets from ¥650; h10am-6pm Fri-Wed)
Refresh with a cup of espresso, or a traditional Japanese dessert set of matcha and yomogi-mochi (mugwort dumplings topped with sweet azuki-bean paste) – it tastes better than it sounds. Set in a refurbished historic house near the entranc
e of the national park, this cafe is a great place to take a breather après-shrine.
Hippari DakoYAKITORI¥
(ひっぱり凧 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0288-53-2933; 1011 Kamihatsu-ishimachi; meals ¥550-900; h11am-8pm; v)
An institution for more than a quarter of a century among foreign travellers, as layers of business cards tacked to the walls testify, this no-frills restaurant serves comfort food, including curry udon, yuba sashimi and yaki-udon (fried noodles).
oMeguriVEGAN¥¥
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0288-25-3122; 909 Nakahatsuishi-machi; lunch ¥1400; h11.30am-6pm Sat-Wed; v)
A dedicated young couple dish up lovingly prepared tasty vegan Japanese meals in this former art shop with an amazing painting on its ceiling. Arrive as soon as they open if you want to secure lunch – it's a popular place and once they've run out of food it's sweets and drinks only.
oGyōshinteiKAISEKI¥¥¥
(尭心亭 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0288-53-3751; www.meiji-yakata.com/gyoushin; 2339-1 Sannai; set lunch/dinner from ¥2100/4500; h11am-7pm Fri-Wed; v)
Splash out on deluxe spreads of vegetarian shōjin-ryōri, featuring local bean curd and vegetables served half a dozen delectable ways, or the kaiseki courses which include fish. The elegant tatami dining room overlooks a carefully tended garden which is part of the Meji-no-Yakata compound of chic restaurants close by the World Heritage Site.