This Is Not America

by Jordi Puntí

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  For Steffi

  America is the neighbouring village,

  any small village in Catalonia:

  youngsters throw stones at gypsies,

  people scowl at strangers,

  the blacks are . . . are blacks,

  the poor become rich there,

  the young make their fortune

  and in the fresh air beside the last few huts

  there begins a heaven

  which is open to everyone.

  There you can be alone and with others,

  you can roast green peppers and the aubergine,

  crickets sing,

  races mingle,

  weeping is permitted there,

  I can help you on with your socks,

  we will gather, we will gather, we will gather

  and the villages come together in their love.

  Evenings in the bar strange individuals

  come from nowhere, who don’t know where they are,

  lay down the law for the world now being invented,

  Americans from Santander, from Barcelona

  and the Catalans, Sioux and Mexicans

  will own a new kind of petroleum

  that has as yet no name nor will have ever

  however often, shepherdess, you refuse

  to serve me with the sacred gas.

  America is the neighbouring village

  in Granollers, Ametlla, Borges Blanques,

  in Mataró, Morella, Cadaqués,

  and in Montuïri eating chocolate.

  ENRIC CASASSES, “AMÈRICA”

  TRANSLATION BY ANNA CROWE

  VERTICAL

  He leaves the subway in Plaça d’en Joanic and, coming up the stairs into the night, hears some nearby church bells chiming ten. Maybe they’re imaginary bells and they’re only ringing in his head, but never mind. What counts is here and now. He repeats it mentally: here and now, right? He lights a cigarette and walks briskly down to Passeig de Sant Joan. There aren’t many people in the street, not many cars, or it might just seem that way because the orangey glow from the streetlights is scattering arabesques of lackluster shadows everywhere. As he passes the churro shop in Carrer de l’Escorial, which is closed today, he shoos away a bittersweet memory. Not now, not yet. But then, just after that, at the top end of Passeig de Sant Joan, facing the half-hidden statue of a friar and a small boy, he stops for a few seconds and thinks of her. The thought is full of pain, yet hazy. A few days ago, and he can’t be more specific than that, Mai’s face started being wiped out of his memory . . . Well, not exactly that. He doesn’t want to use a negative verb. Rather, it’s been gently fading away, a vapory cloud of smoke, little by little, very slowly dispersing, and the days go by and you keep seeing it even though it’s no longer there, and you reach a point when you can see it only because you can imagine it, because you’ve seen it before and you know it was there.

  This sensation of impending oblivion is what’s finally got him moving today. He looks up at the sky. It’s a serene starry night. The warm air’s playing with the leaves in the trees. Now resolved, he starts to walk, one step after the other. When he reaches the statue of Josep Anselm Clavé, he glances at it but doesn’t stop. One day, years ago, they decided that this fusty, frock-coated fellow with his bushy moustache had to be someone more eminent than this Clavé. Someone really internationally famous. They started trying to work out who he looked like. Balzac. Nietzsche. Trotsky, but without the glasses. Wouldn’t it be great if Barcelona had a statue of Trotsky? In the end, she came up with the best answer. Since he was holding a wand in his hand, it would be the statue of a famous magician from the days of the first illusionists and conjurers. Houdini, Max Malini . . . Clavini! The magician who, from his pedestal, made all the boring residents of Barcelona’s Eixample neighborhood vanish into thin air!

  The memory makes him smile for a moment—that wicked gleam in Mai’s eye—but it immediately shrivels to leave a hollowness in his guts, so he walks faster trying to get rid of the nascent burning. He’s got to get used to it, he tells himself, and this nighttime walk has to help him too. This might be why, when he gets to Carrer de la Indústria and stops at the traffic lights, he realizes he’s been going too fast. He won’t leave any trace if he rushes so much. The ink of his footsteps won’t write anything. Then, like a man possessed, he turns around and runs back to the beginning of Passeig de Sant Joan, even overtaking two jogging boys. Sweating and panting with the effort, he stops and starts over, now more slowly.

  * * *

  Tonight he’s walking to trace out the letter I in “Mai.” Passeig de Sant Joan from end to end, right down to the Arc de Triomf. When they met up again, a million nights ago, he changed her name. She immediately agreed because she was convinced that every age deserves a different name, and she’d been waiting for this for quite a while. When she was a little girl her parents called her Maria Teresa. At school she became Teresa—Tere, to her closest friends and first boyfriend—and, a little later, at college, Maite. They’d seen each other around the Arts courtyard, and maybe they’d shared the odd conversation with mutual friends in the faculty bar. Then, all those years later, they met up again at a party in the Gràcia neighborhood, in an apartment that was too small, or too crowded with last-minute guests. A spring night, like now. Music of Echo & the Bunnymen, Ride, Pixies. They’d introduced themselves clinking beers and looking deep into each other’s eyes. She moved her lips over the distortions of the guitars and he read there “Mai.” A woman’s name that could also mean Never. The day she moved her things into his place three weeks later, they fucked as if they had to celebrate the fact, and then she asked, “You’re not one of those guys who gets tired of being with a woman . . . ?”

  “No.”

  “I mean, you won’t leave me or kick me out, will you?”

  “Never, Mai. Never.”

  Then they fucked again and, still lying there all sweaty in the bed, cracked a bottle of Ballantine’s and smoked some Afghan weed to keep the well-being going, or whatever it was they’d been wanting for such a long time. They were both thirty-four, a lousy age, and with more than one failure to forget about.

  * * *

  That was more than fifteen years ago, and right now he doesn’t know if he’s walking to forget it completely or to remember it all. Once again he’s heading down Passeig de Sant Joan, more conscious of his steps, as if his shoes are leaving real prints in the asphalt, a sign that can be read from a bird’s-eye view. He walks past the Great Clavini, and when he gets to the traffic lights at Carrer de Sant Antoni Maria Claret he notices the Bar Alaska there, on the left. It’s full because there’s a soccer match on TV. That’s why there’s no one out in the streets tonight. He wonders if he should go over for a moment, but there’s no need. He can easily revive that family feeling: TV on, waiters in the typical getup, stinking of sweat, the permanent drunks . . . There was a time when he and Mai used to go out for beers with some friends who lived nearby. They called it the Chamfer Route. They’d meet on Saturdays, midafternoon, and started with beers in the Pirineus on the chamfered corner of Carrer de Bailèn. Then to the Alaska and the Sirena Verde, to end up in the Oller till they closed. In the Alaska, they always made fun of the other drinkers and lau
ghed a lot. Old ladies who hung around there all afternoon badmouthing their kids over a pathetic Cacaolat; the separated guy at the bar getting into the cognac as he checked out dating ads; the couple who never spoke as they shared patates braves and a toasted ham-and-cheese sandwich for dinner (so they played at guessing who’d be beating up whom later that night). They stopped doing the Chamfer Route precisely because of soccer. The bars were packed with rowdy people and you couldn’t talk or drink in peace.

  He crosses at the lights. A bicycle goes past next to him and, heading down Passeig de Sant Joan, is soon lost in the gathering darkness. A young couple sitting on a bench is sharing a bag of chips. They eat one and kiss, another chip, another kiss. A dog goes over to them, a black schnauzer. The girl wants to give it a chip but the dog is old and lazy and can’t decide. Then the owner whistles and the dog loses interest and turns tail. For a few seconds they’re walking together, him and the dog, at the same pace. These instants make up a scene of workaday routine, and, more than anything, it bothers him. He and Mai never got used to that; thinking about it a little more, it’s clear to him they weren’t into it at all. When the days started looking too much alike, when they achieved some semblance of normality—not that they made much effort—the thing always cracked at some weak point in the end. You would have thought that Mai’s character was too unpredictable, too edgy, a lethal combination in itself, but there was more to it than that. Blame and risks were shared between the two of them, and that’s probably why they loved each other with that unconditional madness. When they did love each other.

  By the time he reaches Carrer de Còrsega, a sudden roar breaks into his thoughts. Someone’s scored a goal. Fireworks are going off, like a dress rehearsal for Midsummer Eve. A driver festively toots his horn. He looks up and sees two boys who’ve come out onto a balcony to smoke. There are lights on in nearly every apartment. It’s a warm night, and most windows are wide-open. Let the city noise come in now, when the heat’s bearable, there are still no mosquitos, and Barcelona’s streets don’t stink of sewers. Suddenly that poem by Gil de Biedma comes to mind, the one called “Nights of the Month of June.” They read it together and liked it a lot. It spoke of a night like this. He especially recalls the slightly melancholy mood, the student with his balcony doors open and, below, the recently washed street, the solitude, the uneasiness about all the unknowns of the future, but only a slight uneasiness . . . He tries to remember some of it and comes up with a vaguely affective state of mind, with that nicely placed adverb. But there was another more important line near the end . . . Now he can’t get it. The collection of poems by Gil de Biedma was the only book they had two copies of at home after they put their libraries together. They’d bought it when they were students, around the same time, and years later they reread it, looking for excuses for being the way they were, a poetic ploy to justify their actions. Here in the street, as he walks, it only takes a brief flashback to those hungover mornings of crusted vomit, the stale reek of cigarette smoke in the sheets, empty bottles and full ashtrays scattered on the floor—still life at the foot of the mattress—for the words he was looking for to pop into his head. Pero también la vida nos sujeta porque precisamente no es como la esperábamos. Yes, that’s right. Life holds us fast, too, precisely because it is not as we thought it would be.

  * * *

  Mai’s death left him stunned. It was a sense of unreality that at first numbed the hours and was like waking up comatose after you’ve been drinking nonstop for days, when you flow back disoriented and with a calm that inevitably runs off down some drain you never knew existed. He was sober but didn’t seem it. They’d let him go back to work at the high school, and he did his classes on automatic pilot without thinking about what he was saying or getting pissed off with his students. He ate out, always locally and alone, sitting at the bar and never finishing what was on his plate. In that new, lonely netherworld Mai’s absence overwhelmed everything, but it also held out periods of surprising lucidity. If he thought about her as if she were still alive, he’d suddenly know what to do. And there was her betrayal with the whisky, if you can put it like that—eight months after they’d detoxed together yet again—but he forgave her more than anyone. He’d found her one Tuesday night when he came back from Prague after a school trip with his final-year students. She was lying on the sofa, naked, hair in a tangle, and her head hanging down in an unnatural position. She’d choked on her own vomit. Such a cliché death. If it hadn’t been for her wide-open eyes and cold body, he would even have found her beautiful. It was a scene they’d already rehearsed together more than once, more than a couple of times.

  The constant, stupefying confusion hasn’t left him, but he’s learned to live with it and sometimes he even tells himself he can manage it if she helps him. Like that day, quite a while after Mai was dead and cremated, when he decided that he had to write her name on the city. It was a game they’d played in the past, after the third detox which was theoretically the successful one. Once the jitters had calmed down and they were starting to be human again, the doctor recommended that they should walk every day, do some exercise, and, at the same time, chase away dangerous ideas. Then Mai remembered a book by Paul Auster in which his main character walks around the city, his steps tracing letters that are interpreted by someone coming behind him. They got a pencil and a map of Barcelona and began to imagine possible routes. They went out in midafternoon, when he got back from the school and she left her translations, and they walked or, more accurately, strolled around for an hour and a half. The grid layout of the Eixample neighborhood was ideal for monosyllables. Gràcia, Sants, and El Guinardó allowed calligraphic flourishes, while El Xino, a labyrinth of temptations, suggested garbled, dangerous graffiti, which was best to avoid.

  * * *

  Now, coming down Passeig de Sant Joan, he feels a sort of revival of the spirit of those walks, as if Mai were actually at his side. A few days ago, in an attack of longing, he started on the M, up Carrer de Muntaner, then continuing its strokes in the streets of Gràcia. The A, much more complicated to draw, was hidden in the ups and downs of the Putxet neighborhood. Now it pleased him that the I should be coming out from under his feet with this vertical simplicity, yet with the vigor of a nighttime downhill run. A single stroke and her name would be complete.

  He’s about to cross Carrer del Rosselló when he sees the famous journalist Joan de Sagarra going by, looking like he hasn’t had dinner and gloomy and mad at the world or his neighborhood, or maybe mentally writing his next article in which he’ll be mad at the world or his neighborhood. He knows that Sagarra lives around here because he’s said so in more than one of his Sunday pieces. In a playground a little farther down, a small boy frenziedly climbs up and hurtles down a slide while a girl makes sure he doesn’t hurt himself when he hits the bottom. He’s about four or five and you can see he’s hyper. His shouts echo in the absence of traffic. The girl, who must be his mother, is wearing a full-length turquoise sari with silver embroidery glittering under the streetlights. He watches her for a few seconds, guessing that she’s not yet twenty-five and noting that she doesn’t seem at all bothered that it’s so late. Other children are at home sleeping, and this one has the whole playground to himself. He slows down, still looking with a touch of envy at the two figures, which seem to have been teleported from another faraway place at another time of day. A few meters farther along, he gets what’s happening. On the other side of the street is a small Pakistani supermarket, and it’s still open. From the doorway, a man is watching the movements of the mother and child. Get the kid tired and he’ll drop off straightaway.

  He keeps walking and now, yes, while he’s lighting another cigarette, the memory he just had to suppress comes back. Late one night they went out for drinks and to dance in the Almo2bar, or whatever the dive was called, and they’d stopped to get churros in Carrer de l’Escorial. They’d eaten very little and drunk a lot, and, since they only smoked hash in those days, they were fa
mished. They were eating the churros as they walked along, and Mai wanted to sit on one of the swings in the playground of Plaça d’en Joanic. He got behind her and, with a churro in his mouth, started pushing her. First he pushed gently, as if being careful with a small girl, but then, little by little, pushed harder and harder. Mai was laughing, screaming with extravagant fear, instinctively lifting and lowering her feet, but the swing, thrown out of kilter with her weight, was wobbling like crazy. In one of its lurches, just when she told him she’d had enough, her paper cone slipped out of her hand and two or three churros flew into the air. When she tried to grab them, she lost her balance. The fall, which left her flat on her back on the ground, was spectacular, clumsy, but harmless. He was laughing, and as he staggered over to help her up, the swing whacked his back and he also fell, next to Mai. The next day he’d have a bruise for sure, but now, trying to ignore the pain, he flung himself on top of her. They rolled around on the ground, locked together in a long kiss, a mix of laughter, churro dough, tobacco, and alcoholic spit.

  “You see? We’d never be able to have kids, you and I,” she blurted out in a pause, with a soberness that didn’t match the happiness of the moment. “We wouldn’t even know how to swing them, let alone parent them. Imagine what a disaster we’d be.”

  He was about to protest, but he knew Mai was right, so in response he hugged her tighter. Then, in the deeper voice that came out of him when he was tipsy and got all transcendental, he whispered, “We’ll be our own kids.”

  They’d both turned forty.

  * * *

  They got fed up with everything. They’d been walking around, writing words in the streets of Barcelona for a while, when they decided they had to change things. Mai said it would be more fun if they followed each other, as in The New York Trilogy, and the one walking behind would decipher some kind of message along the way. Each of them had to imagine what the other was writing, but it wasn’t easy, like when someone writes a word on your skin and your brain has to know what it is from the touch. Their conspiracy amused them. Sometimes, halfway through the walk, the pursuer caught up with the pursued, saying, “I’m lost. Start again.” And they laughed at the absurdity, or guessed the end of the word and went to the writer to say “I love you too” (although they tried not to be too tacky). Since it was sometimes quite difficult to work out what was being written, he suggested that every time they finished a letter, they should pause to indicate a space by stopping and jumping, for example, or squatting to touch the ground. The plan lasted only a day, because the silly little jumps made Mai feel ridiculous. But one way or another they found new incentives to keep walking. They gave each other hints, like crossword clues.