Best Time to Visit: The park is open from early May through mid-October; June through early September is the most popular time to visit.
Campgrounds: Green Point (in Long Beach Unit) is Pacific Rim’s front-country campground. It has ninety-four drive-in units and twenty walk-in sites; amenities include flush toilets, fire pits, picnic tables, and potable water. RVs are welcome, though no hookups are available. Sites range from $17.60 to $23.50 (CAD); reservations can be made through Parks Canada (877-737-3783; https://reservation.pc.gc.ca).
Activities: Boating, hiking, surfing, First Nations cultural experiences.
The Mojave Road is a dream come true for “overlanders,” four-wheel drive enthusiasts who prize self-reliance during their travels.
California—Baker
MOJAVE ROAD
RECOMMENDED BY Rich Hill
“There are so many options available when you look to do a trip,” Rich Hill opined. “One of the main criteria I use is to find spots where there aren’t a lot of people. A few years back I took out a map, and one place not too far from where I live that looked intriguing was Mojave National Preserve. I started doing some research, and a video of this dad and his daughter driving across the preserve in an antique Land Rover popped up. They were on a dirt path called the Mojave Road. It took three days for them to head across the preserve from east to west. I didn’t need to hear much else.”
Mojave National Preserve is a bastion of serenity between the somewhat less tranquil metropolises of Las Vegas and Los Angeles. At 1.6 million acres, it’s the third-largest unit of the National Park System in the Lower 48, its high desert environs encompassing vast sand dunes (the Kelso Dunes reach heights of 650 feet), mountains (reaching almost 8,000 feet), Joshua tree forests, and volcanic remnants (like the Cinder Cone Lava Beds). In late winter/early spring, visitors can generally count on expanses of wildflowers summoned forth by winter rains. To take in all the preserve has to offer would require a number of visits; but a drive across the preserve’s expanses via the Mojave Road will provide tremendous exposure to many of the treasures the preserve has to offer.
The Mojave Road stretches 138 miles, beginning near the west bank of the Colorado River at the Nevada/Arizona border in the east and bisecting the preserve until its end at Camp Cady. For much of its course, the road is little different than it was in the days when Mojave Indians used the route to reach the coast. (The path was likely chosen thanks to the presence of water at several points.) Discovered by Franciscan priest/explorer Francisco Garcés in 1776, the path was one of several options for westward immigrants. With the discovery of gold in the north in the 1840s, it became less significant for pioneers. (Its popularity wasn’t enhanced by reports of tribal attacks, by the Chemehuevi and Paiute peoples further west along the road, and difficult terrain—considerable stretches of sand and steep passes inhospitable to wagon trains.) Still, the Mojave Road was used as a freight and mail route, and by the 1860s, several forts were established along the way to support trade. Remains of these outposts are preserved today, as is the site of the old railroad station at Kelso.
Driving rough trails through the wilderness and sleeping in or alongside a vehicle may not be everyone’s idea of a relaxing camping trip, but this mode of travel—overlanding—has a modest though passionate following. Overland Journal defines overlanding as:
. . . self-reliant adventure travel to remote destinations where the journey is the primary goal. Typically, but not exclusively, accommodated by mechanized off-highway capable transport (from bicycles to trucks), where the principal form of lodging is camping; often lasting for extended lengths of time (months to years) and often spanning international boundaries. Technical terrain can be encountered throughout the journey, and the travelers may even seek out the most challenging route to a destination as part of their experience, but overland travel is not the same as recreational “fourwheeling,” where the primary objective is overcoming challenging obstacles.
The preferred vehicle for early overlanders was the Land Rover, first made available in 1948; it remains popular today. “In our three-vehicle convoy, there were two Toyotas (Land Cruiser and 4Runner) and one Jeep,” Rich added. “Though we camped each night, it certainly felt more like we were traveling than camping.”
There are several official campgrounds within the Mojave National Preserve—Hole-in-the-Wall (named for the sculptured rock walls that surround the area) and Mid Hills. Both offer potable water and pit toilets. Overlanders set up at less formal sites along the road. “The park service likes you to camp at spots that have been used repeatedly by other travelers over the years,” Rich explained. “We had a guide book [Dennis Casebier’s Mojave Road Guide] that highlights these spots. The first night of our adventure we found one of these spots; the second, we hunted for a while, but eventually just pulled off the trail. Traffic certainly wasn’t a problem—over three days, we came upon one other vehicle and one couple that was camping.
“There are a few things that have stayed with me about my Mojave Road trip. First, it was the incredible variety of the terrain. The first day, we were at a higher elevation, enveloped by pinyon pines and incredible rock formations. On the second day, we descended to lower-elevation desert territory. For long stretches, there’s absolutely nothing, just sand. Then suddenly you come into a stretch of black volcanic sand and immense lava pillars. That second night, there were the most amazing stars. On the third day, the topography changes drastically again, as you head over an expansive salt flat. All told, there were five or six completely different terrain changes. Everyone in my group loved the element of surprise the Mojave Road provided. You just didn’t know what would be around the corner. The other thing that’s stayed with me is the isolation of the place. It’s rare these days to feel so alone.”
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RICH HILL has more than twenty years’ experience in the specialty outdoor industry, ranging from white-water river guide to a front-office executive. He’s been able to work with great brands like Kelty, Marmot, Patagonia, and prAna, and each has provided a unique perspective and opportunity to enjoy the outdoors. From his home in Ventura, California, Rich is currently working on his new car-camping concept called Ticla (www.ticla.com), a brand designed to reenergize the sleepy camping-equipment marketplace with some fresh ideas and a sense of style.
If You Go
Getting There: Las Vegas is the closest major airport, roughly sixty miles east of the preserve. Four-wheel-drive SUVs are available at a number of rental car agencies.
Best Time to Visit: The preserve is open year-round, though during the summer, daytime temperatures can reach well over one hundred degrees. Spring and fall temperatures are more moderate.
Campgrounds: There are two first-come, first-served campgrounds in the preserve, Hole-in-the-Wall and Mid Hills; group camping is available at Black Canyon Equestrian & Group Campground, which accepts reservations by calling 760-928-2572. Guidelines for roadside camping can be found at www.nps.gov/moja.
Activities: Overlanding, four-wheeling, hiking, hunting (in fall).
The vista of McWay Falls at Julia Pfeiffer Burns State Park is one of the most photographed settings in Big Sur.
California—Big Sur
JULIA PFEIFFER BURNS STATE PARK
RECOMMENDED BY Phil Bergman
“We see many visitors from all over the country, and from overseas too,” Ranger Phil Bergman began. “They often ask where they will find Big Sur, as if it were a specific piece of land. While there is a town of Big Sur, the phrase—“Big South”—refers to the coastline from Carmel in the north to San Simeon in the south. That’s nearly ninety miles of relatively undeveloped land along the center of the California coast.”
But a few minutes along this rugged coastline make it easy to understand why visitors travel so far to get to Big Sur. Here, the Santa Lucia Mountains rise abruptly by the Pacific and misty valleys shelter forests of giant redwoods, creating some of North America’s most iconic coastal
vistas. One can only imagine how deeply real estate moguls have longed to monetize these views; yet the hardy terrain through much of this stretch has made development unfeasible. Indeed, it wasn’t until Highway 1 was constructed (between 1919 and 1937) that Big Sur began to enter the broader national consciousness. Today, the stretch of road running through Big Sur is considered one of the crown jewels of the American National Scenic Byways system. The beauty and isolation of Big Sur has attracted many writers since its discovery, ranging from Robinson Jeffers and Henry Miller to Jack Kerouac and Richard Brautigan. Their musings on the place no doubt further burnished its reputation.
There are a number of campgrounds along the northern section of the Big Sur coast, including the three state parks that Phil helps oversee; beginning in the north, these are Andrew Molera, Pfeiffer Big Sur, and Julia Pfeiffer Burns. He described each in detail. “The campground at Andrew Molera is set in an open field that’s about two-thirds of a mile from the beach. You have to hike your gear in about one quarter mile to reach one of twenty-four sites. Though you have to hike in, the campground has decent amenities—fire rings, picnic tables, washrooms, and running, potable water. Since you’re in an open field, the stargazing can be amazing. On nights with a full moon, the coyotes provide a chorus.” There are thirty miles of trails at Andrew Molera. A favorite is the Loop (which combines the Bluffs, Panorama, and Ridge Trails). This trail is 8.8 miles and gains eleven hundred feet of elevation. Much of it is along a bluff with coastal views; it also leads to some remote beaches. Sometimes you’ll see humpback whales in the distance; you may view sea otter closer to shore. The Big Sur River flows through the 4,800-acre park and meets the Pacific here. Rumor has it that the break where the Big Sur meets the sea can be memorable; surfers should bring their boards!
A bit south of Andrew Molera State Park, you’ll reach Pfeiffer Big Sur, which is set back from the sea several miles, amidst thick forests of redwoods, conifers, oaks, and alders. The Big Sur River flows through the campground, and a number of sites are situated right along the river. Pfeiffer Big Sur offers the most camping sites (169) in the northern segment of Big Sur, and the most amenities, including a store, a lodge, and space for RVs. “There’s a very popular hike out of this campground called Pfeiffer Falls,” Phil continued. “It’s only one mile each way, and it takes you up into the redwoods and ends at a sixty-foot waterfall. It’s doable for children. Overall, Pfeiffer has lots of activities for families, including Junior Ranger programs, campfire presentations, and night hikes.”
A few miles south of Pfeiffer Big Sur sits one of California’s most unique state parks, Julia Pfeiffer Burns. Though the park stretches over 3,700 acres, much of it is inaccessible; the hillsides are simply too inhospitable for building trails. “The rugged nature of Julia Pfeiffer Burns is good and bad,” Phil added. “It would be nice to build trails to provide greater access, but the ruggedness gives wildlife a chance to flourish here—most notably, California condors. They are just huge birds, with wingspans extending ten feet; they’re twice as big as turkey vultures. If you keep your eyes to the sky on a sunny day, you’re likely to see them. I’ve seen as many as seven in one group. The Ewoldsen Trail—a four-and-a-half-mile loop that takes the hiker through redwoods, chaparral, and upper forest and ends up high above the coast with unobstructed ocean views—is a great place to picnic and potentially spot condors in flight. Whales are also frequently seen from the park. Gray whales pass close to shore in November and December as they head south, and in March and April as they come north to feed. Just the other day I watched thirty humpback whales just a half mile from shore. There were feeding spouts and fin slapping everywhere. You could hear the whales.” (Julia Pfeiffer Burns also offers a 1,608-acre underwater state park, though only experienced divers should consider exploration, as the currents are significant.)
The walk-in campground at Julia Pfeiffer Burns is set high above a beach where McWay Creek plummets some eighty feet onto the sand below. (The vista of McWay Falls from the north is one of the most photographed scenes in Big Sur.) You have the potential to watch whales from outside of your tent, and you can fall asleep to the sound of the waterfall (if the surf isn’t too heavy). The catch is that very few people get to enjoy it, as there are only two campsites. “I have the feeling that there wasn’t going to be any camping at Julia Pfeiffer in the original plan,” Phil conjectured. “Someone found this spot—the only spot, really, where you could set a few tents—and then lobbied to allow a few lucky campers in. It’s a fantastic thing.”
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PHIL BERGMAN has been a Ranger in Big Sur since 2012. He began his parks career as a volunteer at Año Nuevo State Park, leading wildlife viewing tours. Phil enjoys bicycling, hiking, photography, and spending time with his family.
If You Go
Getting There: Several airlines offer service to Monterey, which is 30 miles from Big Sur. These include Alaska Airlines and United. San Jose is 120 miles from Big Sur and is served by most major carriers.
Best Time to Visit: The climate is temperate throughout the year. You’re more likely to find rain in the winter and fog in the summer, though the fog will often clear later in the day. Spring and fall can be pleasantly clear.
Campgrounds: There are a number of campgrounds along the northern section of Big Sur, including three state parks. These include Andrew Molera (24 walk-in sites, first come, first served); Pfeiffer Big Sur (169 sites, some RV-friendly; reservations through ReserveAmerica: 800-444-7275; www.reserveamerica.com); and Julia Pfeiffer Burns (two walk-in sites, reservations through ReserveAmerica).
Activities: Hiking, wildlife viewing, swimming, fishing, surfing, diving (for experts).
The grandeur of Yosemite Valley is almost too good to be true.
California—El Portal
YOSEMITE NATIONAL PARK
RECOMMENDED BY Kari Cobb
“I think that one of the main reasons people come to Yosemite is to validate the stories they’ve heard from friends and family,” Kari Cobb ventured. “They’ve seen photos and have heard countless people say how beautiful it is. They don’t quite believe it, and they have to experience it for themselves.”
Few come away disappointed.
Yosemite contains 1,160 square miles of wilderness terrain, flowing across a swath of the west flank of the Sierra Nevada, and is bisected by more than 750 miles of trails. But if wilderness exploration is a bit daunting, visitors can enjoy many of the park’s signature elements with only a modest level of exertion. Kari suggests starting your exploration by boarding one of the free shuttle buses in Yosemite Valley. “The bus runs every ten minutes, and it stops at all the popular trailheads in the valley,” Kari explained. “The driver usually describes each stop, so it’s like getting a little guided tour; it takes about forty-five minutes. Once you’re done with the loop, you can take a hike. The most popular hike in the park is the Mist Trail to Vernal Fall. There are natural granite steps that lead up toward the fall along the Merced River. You can go as far as the footbridge, which is 1.6 miles round-trip. If you head up to the top of Vernal Falls, it’s 2.5 miles, and you gain a thousand feet; if you continue beyond Vernal Falls to the top of Nevada Fall, it’s over five miles and you gain two thousand feet in elevation. Upper Yosemite Fall Trail is another popular hike. It’s a strenuous 3.5 miles to the top, but you’re rewarded with a close-up of the fall and views of Half Dome in the distance. Four Mile Trail is the third-best-known trail. It’s actually 4.8 miles and leads to Glacier Point. From here, you get the iconic view of Yosemite—the whole valley and on to the Half Dome and the high country. It’s a taxing hike; if you want an easier option, you can take a shuttle bus to Glacier Point and then hike down.”
Of Yosemite’s many iconic images—its waterfalls, its giant sequoias, the rock climbers scaling El Capitan—Half Dome perhaps looms largest in our collective consciousness. This granite monolith is visible throughout much of Yosemite Valley, rising 4,800 vertiginous feet above the valley floor to
an elevation of 8,800 feet. Once thought unassailable, today it is summited by countless hikers—on busy summer weekends, as many as 1,000 in a day—thanks to steel cables that were affixed to the rock on the final 400 feet of the ascent in 1919. Even without its cable-enabled finale, Half Dome is a rigorous test—a 14-plus-mile round-trip, with nearly a mile of elevation gain and nearly another mile of elevation loss. Few would deny those who tackle the climb a bit of gloating as they recline on Half Dome’s level top for a few minutes’ respite to take in the panoramic views of the valley in all its grandeur.
Many Yosemite visitors will find plenty of natural wonders to occupy their time in the valley, though Kari would strongly recommend a trip to Tuolumne Meadows. “There’s a shuttle bus that will take you up along the Tioga Road to the meadows,” she explained. “The ride itself gives you a different perspective on the park, and there are also memorable stops. Consider taking a swim at Tenaya Lake, or a hike up to Cathedral Lakes or Gaylor Lake. There are some great fishing spots up around Gaylor. The hike to Lembert Dome provides a great view over all of Tuolumne Meadows. It’s a great spot to take in the sunset.”
There are thirteen campgrounds in Yosemite National Park, with four in the valley. “Upper Pines is the biggest campground in the valley, and it’s open throughout the year,” Kari continued. “However, I prefer North Pines. It’s smaller, there are more trees, and many of the sites are right along the river. Camp 4 is the one first-come, first-served campground in the valley. You have to walk in one hundred feet or so to reach the sites, so there are no RVs. My favorite campground in the park is Tuolumne Meadows. Even though it’s the biggest campground in the park, it feels off the beaten path. I also like Yosemite Creek, which has a creek running through the middle, and Wawona, in the southern part of the park. Here, many sites are right along the South Fork of the Merced River.”
Fifty Places to Camp Before You Die Page 6