Over the years, many cartoons (and more recently YouTube videos) have lampooned the antics of Yosemite’s ever-hungry black bears. It’s no laughing matter. Bears can and will pry cars apart to get to granola bars that are improperly stored . . . and bears that become acclimatized to seeking human food can become aggressive and may have to be killed as a result. Campers must store food in bear-proof food lockers provided at all sites. (Lockers are also provided at trailheads.)
Most of Yosemite’s attractions were hewn by Mother Nature, but at least one was made by man—the grand Ahwahnee Hotel, considered a masterpiece of “parkitecture.” “The Ahwahnee was built in 1927 to house prominent people who were invited to the park in hopes of attracting funding,” Kari explained. “After all, these sorts of people weren’t going to camp! Some visitors don’t realize that the Ahwahnee is open to the public, even if you don’t have a reservation. Anyone can visit the common rooms, including the Great Lounge with its huge fireplaces. Be sure to visit the Grand Dining Room. Every time I go in, I can’t help but think of the dining room at Hogwarts in the Harry Potter movies, with its hanging lanterns.”
* * *
KARI COBB has been a park ranger in Yosemite National Park since 2004. She graduated from the University of California at Santa Cruz in 2007 with a BA in sociology and a minor in legal studies. She furthered her education at Fresno State in Fresno, California, by obtaining an MS in criminology in 2009. When she’s not at work, you will find her hiking in the Yosemite backcountry, looking for the next secret spot of solitude.
If You Go
Getting There: The Fresno Yosemite International Airport is roughly two and a half hours to Yosemite Valley and is served by many airlines, including Alaska Airlines (800-252-7522; www.alaskaair.com) and American Airlines (800-433-7300; www.aa.com). Yosemite is approximately four hours from Bay Area airports.
Best Time to Visit: Yosemite is open year-round, though snow often covers the high country until late May. Summers boast the best weather (and crowds); early fall can be a great time to visit.
Campgrounds: Yosemite has thirteen campgrounds; seven are served by a reservation system, the others are first come, first served. Slots fill up early. Visit www.nps.gov/yose for an overview of sites; visit www.recreation.gov or call 877-444-6777 for reservations.
Activities: Hiking, fishing, biking, horseback riding, rock climbing, rafting/kayaking, and ranger tours.
Visitors to EcoCamp Patagonia enjoy “glamping” in specially designed geodesic domes.
Chile
TORRES DEL PAINE NATIONAL PARK
RECOMMENDED BY Stefan Urlaub
Stefan Urlaub still vividly recalls setting foot in Torres del Paine National Park. “I’d had a long journey to reach southern Chilean Patagonia, and seeing the Torres (the park’s eponymous mountain range) for the first time was one of the most magical moments of my life. Like a flow moment of unity with nature, I felt proud of being part of this wonder called Earth.” Stefan’s not alone in his admiration; National Geographic has called Torres del Paine the fifth-most-beautiful place in the world.
Like Texas, Patagonia is as much a state of mind as a place. Encompassing roughly 400,000 square miles of seemingly endless steppes, groaning glaciers, spiky pink granite peaks, and electric-blue lakes, wind-pummeled Patagonia—divided between Chile and Argentina across the bottom of South America—is still very much a frontier. (The border between the countries in the region continues to be amorphous, furthering Patagonia’s reputation as a place where one can melt into the landscape.) Torres del Paine National Park, at the southern tip of the Andes in the region of Magallanes, combines all the natural wonders Patagonia is known for in its 935 square miles. A number of famed trekking routes wind among the park’s glaciers, lakes, and mountains, including the W Trek and the Paine Circuit. But you needn’t strap on a backpack to experience the park’s wonders. Several campgrounds host visitors . . . and you’ll also find a unique “glamping” venue to use as a base camp from which to explore the park via day excursions—EcoCamp Patagonia.
EcoCamp combines a premium location—overlooking the three iconic granitic spires of Torres del Paine (South, Central, and North)—with the novelty of geodesic domes as living structures. “Visitors can appreciate the Torres at sunrise as they wake up and again at sunset as they return after a day’s trek,” Stefan continued. “No journey time is needed to start trekking, guests step out of their dome and pick up the trail leading to the Torres or along the Los Cuernos path. EcoCamp’s dome design was inspired by the Kaweskars, a group of nomadic Patagonian inhabitants whose presence in Torres del Paine is documented. They arrived by canoe in the fifteenth century and made no demands on natural resources as they traveled from place to place, setting up and dismantling their semicircular huts built from simple materials, leaving no trace behind. To keep warm, they lit fires inside the domes.” (The modern notion of geodesic domes was championed in the late 1940s by architect/futurist R. Buckminster Fuller, who valued the domes for their stability and economic use of space.) EcoCamp pioneered the use of geodesic domes for travelers in 1999. Their standard domes keep the at-times-fierce Patagonian wind at bay and feature ceiling windows to take in the southern stars. Like your standard-issue tent, the standard domes lack heat, but an assortment of fleece blankets should keep you cozy. (More ornate domes that include propane heaters and a private bathroom with a composting toilet are also available.) Guests take their meals and socialize in one of the Community Domes, which boast wood stoves, a bar, a library, and an asado platform for the preparation of Patagonian lamb barbecues. (This is glamping, after all!)
Though one could be tempted to relax at EcoCamp and take in the views of the Torres, you traveled this far to immerse yourself in Torres del Paine. Stefan described a few favorite day excursions. “One day, you might take a drive to Laguna Azul, a beautiful glacial lake with the Torres looming in the distance. On the way you’ll see many guanacos (a small member of the camel family, resembling a llama), one of Torres del Paine’s “Big Five” animals; the other four are the Andean condor, South Andean deer, lesser rhea, and puma. At the lake, a Chilean barbeque awaits. As you wander the lake’s shores, there’s a good chance you’ll see condor riding the thermals; their wingspans can exceed nine feet! Pumas are very rarely encountered, but visitors have the option of retaining a safari guide to track these wary cats, so they might catch a glimpse. Another popular day trip takes you to Glacier Grey. Driving to Grey Lake, we’re treated to spectacular views of Los Cuernos [The Horns] del Paine and will likely come upon more herds of guanacos. A brief boat ride takes you across the lake to the towering blue walls of Glacier Grey.” You won’t get too close, however, as the glacier is actively calving.
As noted previously, Torres del Paine is a celebrated trekking destination. The W is the park’s most renowned circuit, so named because there are five destination points along the way, in the rough shape of a “W.” From EcoCamp Patagonia, you’re well positioned to hike two legs of the circuit, Valle del Francés (French Valley) and the Towers base. “We drive to Lake Pehoé and take a catamaran to the northwestern shore, where the French Valley trail begins,” Stefan described. “It’s a steep trail that leads to the heart of the Paine massif. If the group is moving quickly, we can make it all the way to the hanging bridge above the French River, which is at the foot of the south face of the massif. In one direction, there are the fantastic rock formations—Hoja (Blade), Máscara (Mask), Espada (Sword), Catedral (Cathedral), Aleta de Tiburón (Shark’s Fin), and Fortaleza (Fortress)—in the other, the entire valley. The hike to the base of Torres del Paine is perhaps my favorite. Whoever comes to this region of Patagonia dreams of seeing the famous towers from their base. We take the path through the Ascencio Valley on the towers’ eastern face through beech forests. Reaching the moraine, you must navigate some steep boulders while gaining elevation. Eventually, the towers come into full view, with a glacial lake below. Getting there is an adventure, and reaching the
towers makes you feel something special, much more than the sensation of being in the middle of a postcard.”
* * *
STEFAN URLAUB is a native of Stuttgart, Germany, and now serves as Cascada’s communications manager. Stefan loves traveling and adventure and the finer things in life, such as good Chilean wine. A big mountain fan, Stefan enjoys trekking, snowboarding, and mountaineering in Chile and Argentina.
If You Go
Getting There: Travelers can reach Torres del Paine National Park via Punta Arenas, which is served by LAN Airlines (866-435-9526; www.lan.com) via Santiago.
Best Time to Visit: Torres del Paine National Park is open year-round, though the weather is best during the austral spring and summer—October through March.
Campgrounds: EcoCamp Patagonia (800-901-6987; www.ecocamp.travel) offers unique camp-style lodging in geodesic domes and an array of tours around the park. Traditional campgrounds in the area include Lago Pehoé Camping (+56 61 411355), Río Serrano Camping (+56 61 411355), and Laguna Azul Camping (+56 61 411157).
Activities: Hiking, wildlife viewing, fly-fishing, and biking.
The islands off Croatia’s southeast coast—Mljet and Korcula—mix pristine forests and picturesque fishing villages.
Croatia
THE DALMATIAN COAST
RECOMMENDED BY Adriano Palman
“If you can imagine a mix of Italy, Spain, and Greece, with a bit of Eastern Europe mixed in, then you have a good idea of Croatia,” began Adriano Palman. “One difference is people don’t know as much about Croatia as its better-known neighbors. It’s a small country, roughly the size of West Virginia. Yet there are so many kinds of landscapes—mountains, coast, canyon country—it’s like ten countries in one. Though the inland areas have many appeals, most tourists visit the seaside, especially the Dalmatian Coast.”
Many travel-business insiders consider Croatia a hidden gem, combining many of the best aspects of better-known southern European destinations—crystal-clear water, a mild climate, rich culture, and colorful cuisine—without the crowds. The republic rests across the Adriatic Sea from Italy and is bordered by Hungary to the north, Slovenia to the northwest, Serbia to the east, and Montenegro to the southeast; Bosnia and Herzegovina cuts into the center of the country, giving Croatia a horseshoe shape. Croatia has a rich and incredibly complex history; the turbulence that’s dogged Croatia stems largely from its location, at the nexus of central, southern, and Eastern Europe. Despite the travails they’ve faced through the twentieth century, the Croats are by and large a friendly and hospitable people. They work hard, enjoy life, treat visitors well, and are proud of their country and everything it has to offer—which for the outdoor enthusiast is a great deal . . . including fine camping.
“There are campsites literally everywhere on the Croatian coast,” Adriano continued. “All the campsites need to meet strict quality standards. ADAC (the German Automobile Club) publishes the bible of campsite guides and ranks each European country for the quality of its camping accommodations. Croatia is currently ranked third.” Campgrounds take two basic forms—holiday camps and mini-campsites. The holiday camps can be quite large and generally offer the most amenities, including access to electricity, running water, sewage connections, pools, wellness centers, grocery stores, restaurants, live music, etc. Mini-campsites, which have up to fifty sites, are often family-owned. While they may have fewer facilities, they’re often situated in more remote areas. Along the Adriatic coast, sites often back up to the beach.
The Dalmatian Coast, broadly defined, extends from the border with Montenegro in the southeast to the island of Rab in the northwest and includes countless islands resting just off the shore. It’s a study in contrasts: beaches and steep cliffs alternate with densely wooded stands of cypress and pine and lemon and orange plantations. Most travelers who are not driving from Europe will begin their trip at the southern end of the Dalmatian Coast, in the medieval walled city of Dubrovnik. A walking tour of the two-kilometer wall that circumscribes the old town is a must for visitors; some sections of the wall, first built in the 1200s, are sixty feet thick. “Dubrovnik was recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage site in 1979,” Adriano explained, “but it has found new renown, thanks to the popularity of the program Game of Thrones, which is filmed here.”
From Dubrovnik, visiting campers will usually rent a car and begin making their way north along the mainland—or, book a ferry and cross to one of the islands. Another popular option is to charter a sailboat for a week or two and sail up and down the coast, visiting little fishing villages and campsites along the way. “The islands offer a very pleasurable experience,” Adriano added. “They are much less crowded, and you can still find little fishing villages where life has changed little over the years—though the people are used to tourists and very friendly. It’s common for people to gather around the main square and enjoy food and wine in the evening. There are some fine wines grown here.” (One of the most popular is Plavac Mali, a red-wine grape that’s a cross between Zinfandel and Dobričić grapes.) Two attractive islands for camping are Mljet and Korčula. Mljet is celebrated for its quietude and pristine forests. The northern section of the island is preserved as a national park; while no camping is allowed in the park, a few campgrounds are not far outside of the preserve. There are two saltwater lakes within the park, Malo Jezero and Veliko Jezero. (The lakes are significantly warmer than the waters off the coastline and make for wonderful swimming.) One must-visit site rests in the middle of the Veliko—the brilliantly whitewashed Monastery of Saint Mary. The original church was built in the late twelfth century by Benedictine monks from southern Italy. Today, it houses a restaurant and has regular boat service. A hike up to the ridge that runs along the top of Mljet offers stunning views of southern Dalmatia, including Dubrovnik.
Korčula is a bit north of Mljet, at places less than a mile from the mainland. Though one of the most populated of Croatia’s islands, Korčula remains heavily wooded, with stands of pine interspersed with vineyards, olive groves, and orchards. Korčula, in some ways, is a microcosm of the many landscapes Croatia has to offer, with mountains reaching nearly two thousand feet, myriad beaches, and rolling, fertile fields. Not surprisingly, seafood is popular on local menus; fish with olive oil is a favorite. There are several three-star campgrounds a short distance from the quaint Korčula town as well.
* * *
ADRIANO PALMAN has been leading the Croatian Camping Union, the national organization that gathers (voluntarily) almost all of the Croatian campsites, since 2007. He completed his MBA in Italy, and previous work experience led him through some of the biggest tourism companies in the country. He has been a consultant at Horwath Consulting, a specialized consulting company for the tourism and leisure sector. In his spare time, Adriano likes exploring the many hidden secrets of Croatia.
If You Go
Getting There: The Croatian capital city, Zagreb, is served by many airlines, including Air France, British Airways, and KLM via Amsterdam, Frankfurt, and other European cities. From Zagreb, Croatia Airlines (www.croatiaairlines.com) provides service to Dubrovnik.
Best Time to Visit: The Dalmatian Coast has a Mediterranean climate, with dry, hot summers and cool, misty winters. The best swimming weather is from late spring through early fall.
Campgrounds: The Croatian Camping Union (+385 52 451 324; www.camping.hr) is a clearinghouse for all the campgrounds in the country.
Activities: Swimming, snorkeling, cycling, sailing, kayaking, hiking, horseback riding, climbing, and fishing.
Kentmere Valley, one of many lake-filled valleys carved by the last ice age.
England
LAKE DISTRICT NATIONAL PARK
RECOMMENDED BY Pete Royall
Whatever your high school or college English class experience with “Tintern Abbey” or “The Prelude,” most will agree that William Wordsworth nicely captured the romance and beauty of the Lake District in his poem “Daffodils”:
I wande
r’d lonely as a cloud
That floats on high o’er vales and hills,
When all at once I saw a crowd,
A host, of golden daffodils;
Beside the lake, beneath the trees,
Fluttering and dancing in the breeze.
Pete Royall sums up the appeals of the Lake District with one word: compact. “The park is small enough that you can easily take in all it has to offer,” he began, “and a series of trunk routes makes it easy to access most of the region. People hear the phrase Lake District and they picture a plain filled with lakes. Actually, this is the most mountainous area in England. Our ten highest peaks (known as “fells”—an old Norse word from the original Lake District settlers) are here, including Scafell Pike at 3,210 feet. Many people come for the hill walking. The Lake District was sculpted out during the last ice age; the ice left great U-shaped valleys filled with lakes. There are sixteen larger lakes and hundreds of tarns—some great for fishing, some for swimming. Some of the larger lakes have steamer service, so you can see countryside from the water. You can also hire a rowboat or sailboat and go out on your own. The Lake District is a national park, but not in the way that Yellowstone is a national park. It’s a working environment, with villages, farms, and businesses. [Roughly forty thousand people live within park boundaries.] Life goes on here, though there are rigid restrictions on what sort of development can be undertaken. There are key towns which have been developed to provide tourist facilities such as restaurants, bars, cafés, theaters, and climbing walls, while most of the region’s villages are maintained as they were one hundred or two hundred years ago; they’re a bit of preserved older England. The valleys seem almost gardenlike, well manicured with ancient, dry-stone walls dividing properties. The hills are a hint of wildness that rise in the background.”
Fifty Places to Camp Before You Die Page 7