Sand in the Wind

by Ruth Hay

  Anna summoned the energy to chuckle as she replied, “The name comes from the other meaning of the word. The Nile used to be impassible at several points in its length where rocks blocked the centre causing a cataract, a waterfall of water. This is where the first of these cataracts lies.

  Don’t be deceived by the entrance to the hotel, Alina. It is old but very famous. Agatha Christie wrote ‘Death on the Nile’ while staying here. I think you’ll be surprised by the interior.”

  “Thank you, professor! Can I expect similar speeches whenever we go to a new site?”

  Alina was laughing now, but Anna quickly explained that she had spent the summer reading up about their trip while Alina was occupied at the warehouse and interviewing new personnel.

  “I intend to make myself useful,” she insisted. “But just tell me to shut up when you’ve had enough.”

  “Not a chance! It’s great to have extra information. It really adds to the experience.”

  Alina began to understand what Anna had meant as soon as they entered the foyer of the hotel.

  “Wow!” she exclaimed.

  The ceilings were very high and the decor was heavy influenced by a combination of Victorian carved wood and exotic, African, striped-paint effects on curved doorways. Palm trees reached for the light streaming down from a glass cupola set above a formal dining room just ahead of them.

  Immediately, the weary group felt dusty, sweaty and out of place in this splendid setting.

  Once again, the two women received special attention as soon as Elaine handed over the group’s passports for safe keeping and identification.

  They were escorted to an ancient elevator which creaked its way to an upper floor where a spacious room awaited them. High ceilings and French doors leading to a private balcony were the first impression they received, but the huge beds, polished wooden floors and large dark wood furniture soon caught their attention. Alina happily discovered an enormous bathroom and vanished inside towing her case.

  Anna could not resist stepping out to the balcony to see the view. It was even more spectacular than she had guessed. Two or three floors below her, on a rock shelf stretching along the length of the building, were various outdoor amenities of the hotel. She could see the edge of a terrace roof and over to her right the blue water of a modern swimming pool gleamed.

  Anna gave these only passing glances. Her gaze was drawn to the expanse of the Nile that fronted the hotel. The peaks of tall white sails clustered at the shore line far below. Other boats were in mid stream crewed by boys in long white robes. An evening breeze was filling the sails and the entire effect was silent magic in the last rays of the setting sun.

  Anna took a long breath and let it out slowly. She stood still trying to absorb every detail of the scene before her. She wanted to capture not only the sights but also the rich smells of sand and air, toasted after a day in the sun. Nothing could be more different from the climate they had left behind in Scotland.

  She instinctively readjusted her mental state. This was a new and wonderful experience that deserved her full attention. The saga of Helen Dunlop must be left aside for now. She would need every ounce of her concentration to capture the essence of this trip to Egypt and make it unforgettable for Alina.

  Chapter Fifteen

  When Anna awoke the next morning, it took a moment or two to remember where she was.

  Rubbing her eyes, she peered upward and saw the ornate ceiling far above her head.

  “Egypt!”

  She looked over to the other bed and saw the white covers pushed aside. She smiled happily realizing Alina was out on the balcony experiencing something of the delights she had known the evening before. She stretched out her arms until her whole body was revitalized.

  Today was the first day of their holiday.

  She felt refreshed by a full night’s sleep after an elegant meal in the terrace restaurant the evening before. Conversation among the VJV group had started between courses. A trio of Egyptian musicians in colourful, long robes and round embroidered hats played local music, but the excitement of the travellers overcame any distractions. As soon as the sun set and darkness obscured the fascinating views of the Nile, they began to exchange home and work details.

  Alina met a Japanese couple and Anna was seated across from a family of Germans who informed her they were regular visitors to Egypt. A nearby table was occupied by two Canadian couples, if the accents were anything to go by, and an English pair who seemed to be complaining about the food.

  “Come and see this, Anna! You can see far into the desert from this height. I saw a camel rider galloping up a steep sand dune and the Nile is so beautiful! Aren’t we lucky to be on the top floor?”

  Anna walked out to join her and noticed how clear the opposite side of the Nile was, illuminated by the morning light. Birdsong filled the air but, in only a few seconds, she could also feel the heat of the sun on her back.

  “We’d better get unpacked, Alina. We’ll need our lighter clothes for today and sunscreen for sure. We’ll buy bottled water before we leave the hotel but take a bag for your camera, cover-ups and a change of shoes.”

  “Anna! It’s a holiday, not an expedition! I don’t want to be carrying a load like the donkeys we saw yesterday.”

  “Please yourself, of course, but I recommend studying the day’s program before we depart.”

  * * *

  Breakfast was buffet style in the vast dining room off the foyer. It was filled with many guests this morning. Anna looked around to see what others were wearing. There was a selection of shorts and cotton tops with open sandals. Most people had cameras and hats. Anna was conscious of the danger of sunburn coming from a winter season in Canada, and she had chosen a long-sleeved light shirt over loose linen pants with a broad-brimmed hat in her bag.

  Elaine went from table to table asking how everyone had slept and warning them to assemble promptly in the foyer at 8:00am where she would introduce the Egyptologist who would be their guide for the entire trip.

  Anna was pleased to see Mohammed was a courtly, rotund, older gentleman who would appreciate any physical difficulties his group might encounter and might, perhaps, set a suitably measured pace.

  * * *

  Their first stop was at the Temple of Philae. The bus dropped them at a landing dock where they were helped down into one of a series of motor boats to transport them across to the island.

  The short boat trip was Anna’s first chance to meet, and talk with, local children who were on board to sell a variety of items. She noticed at once how fast the young boys figured out the language of the tourists, switching between English, German and even Japanese with amazing speed. They knew how to calculate money in each language and Anna’s dollars were soon exchanged for five intricately-beaded necklaces which she selected, with some difficulty, from the arms of two boys. Each necklace was composed of different-coloured beads in repeated patterns. It was hard to choose favourites, but she eventually picked a black one with gold beads outlining the pattern, a turquoise with gold and three in a different pattern with only single-coloured beads that gleamed in bronze, black and a dark grey that looked like hematite.

  She immediately placed the long strand of the bronze one around her neck and it hung across the front of her blouse adding interest to her plain yellow garment.

  Alina, meanwhile, was examining simple musical instruments, like a basic two-stringed guitar and wooden whistles and pipes, demonstrated with some skill by the boys. They declared that all their goods were home-made by children.

  As the boats drew closer to an island, their pleas for sales grew more frequent and the very reasonable prices dropped even more. It was evident that the children were not allowed to sell their wares in the temple precincts.

  Anna took Mohammed’s hand and stepped out of the boat and onto a stone ramp. The temple of Isis was high above the water line. The Egyptian adventure was about to begin.

  * * *

  ASWAN. PHILAE I
SLAND AND TEMPLES.

  E bought our tickets and M took over to explain how the beautiful temple was moved to higher ground to save it from the flooding caused by the High Dam. Philae is called The Pearl of the Nile.

  First we saw the side temple devoted to Goddess Hathor, the one with the cow’s head and the charming ears (see pictures). The long forecourt approach to the main temple was bordered by shaded walks on both sides. We were grateful that M chose this route as the sun was already burning hot and I could feel the sweat gathering under my hat and around my waist. The columns supporting the roofs were quite marvellous. They represent plants and trees.

  M pointed out examples of stone fig trees, palm trees, lotus buds and even papyrus plants (must see those for real). Although everything built here is a dusty sandstone colour, M said they would once have been vibrant with paint.

  By peering very closely, I can just make out faint colours near the roof. Wouldn’t it be amazing to see a column in its original state!

  M talked a lot about Isis and Osiris and their son Horus. I wrote down as much as I could but the whole time I was waiting for the chance to enter the main Temple of Isis beckoning ahead of us.

  At last M led us up to it. The animal statues I had spied at the top of the steps turned out to be lions, although somewhat damaged. I exchanged a word or two with Alina there, and asked her to continue taking pictures as I was busy with the information side of things.

  I knew the huge squared-off structures at each side of the entrance were called pylons and there would be a series of them interspersed with courtyards and small buildings. What I didn’t know was that the pylon entrances were set at an angle to each other so that the Egyptian people, who were permitted to enter only on special days, would move forward in wonder as more of the temple was gradually revealed until the final sanctuary itself (where the statue of Isis was kept) was approached.

  The pylons were about 40 feet high and sculpted female and male figures progressed across them. I recognized in the first few minutes that my research was quite inadequate for this task.

  I could not tell one figure from another. M said the headdresses and even the seats they sat on were clues to their identity. Lots of reading to do later.

  As I entered through the first pylon I had a strange sensation. At first I thought it was a moment of weakness caused by the heat, but it wasn’t just that. It was like passing through a time portal from one world to another. My senses were alive in a way I have rarely experienced before and I was keenly aware that this entire Egyptian adventure would be very special.

  When we were guided through the temple, from brilliant light into deep shade, I could feel the power of this place, even today in its diminished state. The effect on illiterate farmers centuries ago would have been unimaginable.

  The noon sun was burning by the time we emerged on the other side of the island where the beautiful Kiosk of Trajan stood. This image is the one you see in all the books about Philae.

  Both it, and the name of the island, indicate the later additions of the Ptolemaic period of Egyptian history (see Cleopatra).

  I sat down on a broken piece of rock and just looked at the unfinished structure, set against the burnished blue of the sky. Its fourteen columns are exquisitely carved in stone, a combination of the early Egyptian styles we had seen and the Roman acanthus leaves of Corinthian columns.

  * * *

  ASWAN --> NUBIAN VILLAGE.

  After another Cataract Hotel terrace for a leisurely lunch overlooking Elephantine island (see history note) when everyone was excited about the morning’s sights, I started this journal.

  Refreshed, we walked down through the granite rock of the hotel’s foundations to their private dock where a large feluccca awaited to take our party across to Nubia! Once on board I could see for the first time how high up the hotel was; a large and imposing red building with white paint outlining the tower windows and all horizontal lines. No wonder we had such expansive views from our balcony!

  The sailboat held a dozen passengers. Some of the older members of the group elected to rest for the afternoon. As we passed a smaller island (Kitchener Botanical) M named the variety of palm trees there. I thought the royal palm with its great height was the most spectacular.

  M also pointed out birds and plants of this 75-island nature reserve. The white egrets clustering on the tops of trees were a contrast to the bright blossoms everywhere.

  Lots of traffic on the Nile but the crew (2 young men) steer expertly with ropes using the breeze in the tall sails. We reached the opposite bank and were met by a camel caravan, each with its owner holding the reins. The camels had saddles covered in rugs, and red or gold tassels hanging from their halters. We were invited to join a trek into the desert toward the Monastery of San Simeon. I couldn’t wait to ride although some of our party stayed on the boat.

  Alina said she would watch how I managed and then decide. The handler made the camel kneel down and I settled myself on the saddle behind the hump, and clutched the horn part in front of me. The driver told me to hold tight and that was good advice! The camel lurches forward to get its back legs up then heaves backward to stand upright. Now I know what a bucking bronco feels like!

  Alina was brave enough to follow with advice from myself and two handlers.

  Soon we were off into the desert leaving the Nile behind. It was exhilarating! The camel’s broad feet balance the weight and produce a rolling kind of gait. My driver was leading in front and he allowed me a short trot which was more jolting than the sedate walking pace, but so exciting.

  Images of Lawrence of Arabia flashed through my mind.

  The adventures were not yet over. We returned to the felucca and sailed on for a visit to a Nubian village for afternoon tea.

  As we approached the shore a flock of children in bright track suits and costumes raced along to our landing place. My reading had advised me to bring small items for just such an event.

  I handed out a bundle of pens from my shoulder bag and the happy children ran off to show us the way to their village.

  M shook hands with a colleague who would be our interpreter. His name was also Mohammed with the hyphen Araby. He was much darker of skin than ‘our’ Mohammed, as were the women who awaited us inside the house. There was a flat wall outside with coloured plaster over mud bricks, but inside was an open courtyard floored in red sand with rooms opening off it for both family and animals (goats and young chickens that kept trying to escape and were shooed back inside by two children).

  The custom is for married daughters to live at home so a new courtyard is added for them.

  One deep, domed room had small square windows while all the others were dark, but well equipped with beds, tables, dressing tables, a gas stove with shining aluminum kettles for our tea, even a fridge and a TV up on the wall. M-Araby explained that every village in Nubia has water, a school and electricity.

  Tea, very hot with a refreshing hint of mint, was served by the smiling women while we rested against the walls on colourful woven mats and watched M-Araby smoke the hookah and tell us about Nubian history (see notes). I was interested to learn their language is very different from Arabic and passed down orally.

  The older women wear long black robes but the younger ones have lovely decorative Nubian clothes and headdresses. I bought a necklace carved from camel bones as a souvenir. It looks like ivory. A practical people; they do not waste any part of these valuable animals.

  * * *

  Back at the hotel and a quick shower and change for the evening activities. (Grilled fish with rice for dinner with crepes and orange sauce.)

  8:45pm. Son et lumiere show at Philae. Absolutely magical! Starts in pitch blackness, then resonant voices are heard telling the story of Isis and her love for Osiris, God of the Underworld. As we hear of the miracle birth of their son, Horus, floodlights illuminate special parts of the temple. I had not noticed the tiny birthing room before. The crowd moves silently to each new section of t
he temple where another part of the myth of Isis, who became a universal mother figure in the whole of the Mediterranean, is revealed. Dramatic music adds to the mystical atmosphere.

  I shivered despite my shawl. Can’t help thinking of the Christian parallels. Late return to the hotel. Many sleeping on the bus ride. What a day! I still can’t believe we did so much. It was Philae at the beginning and Philae at the end and neither of us will ever forget it.

  Chapter Sixteen

  From the itinerary it looked to Anna and Alina as if a second busy day was in store. Both were hoping for a rest day soon, to absorb everything they had seen and to recoup some energy.

  “I doubt I can keep this pace up for long,” complained Anna as they shared the bathroom.

  “I’m already confused about details of what happened yesterday.”

  “Well, keep writing that journal,” said Alina through a mouthful of toothpaste. “It’s the only hope we have of keeping track. I’ll make notes about the photographs I am taking and we’ll put it all together when we get home.”

  “Hard to believe a Canadian winter waits for us somewhere! I can feel the heat already this morning and I’m just out of the shower. Mohammed said it’s much more humid in Aswan now that the High Dam has permanently raised the water levels in the Nile.”

  “Which way are we heading today, oh, guru of the trip?”

  Anna ran a comb through her damp hair, thankful that her shorter style made washing and drying much easier. “South today, I think. It could get hotter still. Good thing Elaine chose the short plane trip rather than four hours on the road.”

  “Agreed! Let’s get down to breakfast and you can finish writing that journal entry for yesterday. Remember we have to put our cases outside the door for pick up before we leave the room.”