A Book of Voyages

by Patrick O'Brian

  I never saw such a variety of colours—different coloured gold and silver mixed together—The Kaima-Kan, and two other principal Tartars, supped with us, and I find nothing can exceed the ignorance and simplicity of these people—The Kaima-Kan is the Khan’s first minister—He is totally ignorant of the geography of his own country; and says that England and Petersburgh are the same thing—I am to dine with his sister tomorrow; she is married to a rich Tartar, who has given a certain yearly sum to possess, solely, the profits of the soap mines—For among the excellent productions of this peninsula, there is a mine of earth exactly like soap, and reckoned very good for the skin—the Turkish women consume a great quantity of it at Constantinople—and I am told this Tartar makes an immense income from it—I saw from the windows a kind of dome which raised my curiosity, and I am told it is a monument built to the memory of a Christian wife, which the Khan loved so tenderly that he was inconsolable for her loss; and that he had placed it there, that he might have the satisfaction of looking at the building which contained her remains. This Tartar Khan must have a soul worthy of being loved by a Christian wife I think—

  SEVASTOPOLE, APRIL 12, 1786

  I have been at Soudak, where the foundations yet remain of a very large town, which was rebuilt by the Genoese, on the descent of steep rocks—

  To the left of the town there is a fine harbour—it is upon this southern part of the peninsula that vines are cultivated, and grow wild in great abundance—at present only a few private people there have vineyards of their own—There is little good wine made, and the Empress has indeed a Frenchman who seems to care only about the strength of the wine being sufficient to make brandy, which he distils in great quantities—He is settled at Soudak at present, and probably will make a great fortune, but not teach the culture of vines to the Russians—From Soudak I went to Atchmetchet, the residence of the Governor—

  I find a thirty-six gun frigate, under the disguise of a merchant-ship, had been fitted out for me, and had been ready above a fortnight; I crossed an arm of the sea in the Comte de Wynowitch’s barge to arrive here—

  There were several Turkish boats in the harbour, but there was a line on the shore marked with fires which they were not permitted to pass—The Turks came to sell oranges, and every precaution is taken to prevent their communicating the plague; so that although they may come on shore, they are obliged to heap their oranges within the space allotted to them, and bargain at a distance—We were above thirty people at table, and I returned with my company to Sevastopole in carriages—I called just now the Turkish vessels boats—but I am told they are ships—a most dangerous sort of conveyance for men or merchandise in my opinion—long, narrow, and top-heavy—The frigate prepared for me seems a good ship—the three sea-officers who go with me, have never been at Constantinople; we go as merchants, for by a treaty between the Porte and Russia, trading vessels may come from the Black Sea into the Canal of Constantinople, but not men of war. We have a Greek pilot on board, who is to steer us safe, please Heaven. I am told we are not to be much more than two days in our passage.

  PALAIS DE FRANCE, PERA, APRIL 20, 1786

  I am safely arrived, dear Sir, and hasten to inform you how I made my voyage. I set out the 13th at five in the morning; Mr. de Wynowitch took me out of the harbour in a small frigate, and after seeing me safe in my cabbin took leave. He gave me a royal salute, and as his guns fired, we set sail with a fair wind; we had not been two days at sea before we were becalmed; and we lay three days and three nights, wishing for wind, which came on at last very fresh with rain—On the seventh day, the Greek pilot, the only person on board who had ever been at Constantinople, was dead drunk and incapable of speaking, much less of steering the ship—The officers were greatly alarmed, and there was a long consultation between them and the rest of the company—I luckily had a small map of the Black Sea, and the entrance of the Canal—which alone was our guide—As to me I had dressed myself in a riding habit, and had a small box in one hand, an umbrella in the other, and had told the captain I was determined to get into the boat and land on the Turkish shore, rather than lose sight of the Canal, or sail into it without being quite sure that we were right—There is a large rock on the European shore, which is so far distant from it that, unless a map or pilot directs the mariner, he must infallibly take it for the entrance of the Bosphorus, and several hundreds of Turkish boats are wrecked upon it yearly.

  The gentlemen and officers stood all the morning upon deck, watching the shore; we had ran then above ninety leagues to the left, always seeing land, which was owing to the currents which had taken our ship during the three days calm, so much more to the right—As to me I stood between decks till the Captain told me to come and look at a village, church, or something—it was a Turkish Minaret, and a few moments afterward we saw that rock I dreaded so much, upon which there are about a thousand Turkish vessels that perish constantly every year, as the Turks forget as they leave it to the left in coming out, they must leave it to the right in going in—

  To return to my voyage, Sir: you may judge how infinitely comfortable I felt, in being at anchor about six in the evening; escaped from all the dangers I had been threatened with upon the Black Sea; and the ugly circumstance that attended us when we were about to take our leave of it. I had so many birds, among which was a most beautiful milk-white small heron, that had taken refuge in the ship, that my cabbin looked like a bird-shop—We supped on board very comfortably, and I took some hours rest; and the next morning we put ourselves in the long-boat, and were rowed to Mr. de Bulkalow’s house at Bouyukdere, but he was at Pera, so we were rowed by a Turkish boat down to Pera—The Bosphorus takes a sudden turn at Bouyukdere—I refer you to Mr. Gibbon, Sir, for his account of the singular situation of Constantinople, my pen will repeat feebly what he has described in language majestic as the subject deserves—But I am certain no landscape can amuse or please in comparison with the varied view, which the borders of this famed Straight compose—Rocks, verdure, ancient castles, built on the summit of the hills by the Genoese—modern Kiosksfn3, Minarets, and large platane-trees, rising promiscuous in the vallies—large meadows—multitudes of people, and boats swarming on the shore and on the water; and what was particular, nothing to be seen like a formal French garden—The Turks have so great a respect for natural beauties, that if they must build a house where a tree stands, they leave a large hole for the tree to pass through and increase in size, they think the branches of it the prettiest ornament for the top of the house. The coast is so safe that a large fleet of Turkish vessels is to be seen in every creek, masts of which are intermingled with the trees, and a graceful confusion and variety make this living picture the most poignant scene I ever beheld.

  Judge of Mr. de Bulakow’s surprise, when he had opened his letters and read my name; he had scarcely time to offer me his services, when Mr. de Choiseul’s people came and claimed me from their master, who had been prepared for three weeks before for my arrival, by Mr. de Segur at Petersburgh; and I confess, from the character I had heard of him, I was not at all sorry that he claimed my society as his droit—And now I have heard him speak, I am extremely glad that I am to profit by his conversation and company, both of which are as much to be desired as talents and politeness can make them. Adieu for today—I am sun-burnt, tired, but likewise pleased beyond measure—yes, Sir, pleased to be here, and to call myself by the honoured name of

  Your affectionate sister,

  E. C—.

  From

  DR. JOHN MOORE’S

  A VIEW OF SOCIETY AND MANNERS IN FRANCE, SWITZERLAND, AND GERMANY:

  With Anecdotes Relating to Some Eminent Characters.

  Dr. John Moore was born in 1729: he studied at Glasgow, where he knew Smollett, and became an Army surgeon. Later he took his doctorate at Glasgow, where he practised for some time. The seventh Duke of Hamilton was put under his care, but he died at the age of 15, and Dr. Moore took charge of the eighth Duke, with whom he travelled for five
years, making the grand tour. He remained a close friend of the Duke for the rest of his life—a sufficient comment on the excellence of his bear-leading.

  Dr. Moore was as much a man of letters as a physician; in 1779 he published his first work, A View of Society and Manners in France, Switzerland, and Germany: with Anecdotes relating to some Eminent Characters, from which this extract is taken. It was successful, and he followed it with A View in Italy; in 1786 he wrote his curious novel Zeluco and a medical treatise.

  He was a popular man in society; he knew most people, among them Dr. Johnson, and Sir Thomas Lawrence, who painted his portrait. He corresponded with Burns, and edited Smollett’s works.

  In 1792 he was in Paris for the bloodier part of the Revolution; he wrote a Journal during a Residence in France from … August to … December, 1792, and later wrote a more considerable work on the Revolution, its causes and progress. There are two other novels of his, Edward (1796) and Mordaunt (1800): they are said by the D.N.B. to be dull.

  Most of Dr. Moore’s sons distinguished themselves, but the third, who was the famous Sir John Moore himself, puts the others in the shade.

  Dr. Moore died at Richmond in 1802: Dr. Robert Anderson wrote his biography in 1820.

  VIENNA

  HAVING left Pressburg, we travelled eight posts across a very fertile country to the palace of Estherhasie, the residence of the Prince of that name. He is the first in rank of the Hungarian nobility, and one of the most magnificent subjects in Europe. He has body guards of his own, all genteel-looking men, richly dressed in the Hungarian manner.

  The palace is a noble building, lately finished, and situated near a fine lake. The apartments are equally grand and commodious; the furniture more splendid than almost any thing I have seen in royal palaces. In the Prince’s own apartment there are some curious musical clocks, and one in the shape of a bird, which whistles a tune every hour.

  Just by the palace, there is a theatre for operas, and other dramatic entertainments, and in the gardens, a large room with commodious apartments for masquerades and balls.

  At no great distance, there is another theatre expressly built for puppet-shows. This is much larger, and more commodious than most provincial playhouses, and I am bold to assert, is the most splendid that has as yet been reared in Europe for that species of actors. We regretted that we could not have the pleasure of seeing them perform; for they have the reputation of being the best comedians in Hungary.

  We had the curiosity to peep behind the curtain, and saw Kings, Emperors, Turks, and Christians, all ranged very sociably together. King Solomon was observed in a corner in a very suspicious tête-à-tête with the Queen of Sheba.

  Amongst other curiosities, there is in the garden a wooden house, built upon wheels. It contains a room with a table, chairs, a looking-glass, chimney, and fire-place. There are also closets, with many necessary accommodations. The Prince sometimes entertains twelve people in this vehicle, all of whom may easily sit round the table, and the whole company may thus take an airing together along the walks of the garden, and many parts of the park, which are as level as a bowling-green. The machine, when thus loaded, is easily drawn by six or eight horses.

  Prince Estherhasie having heard of M. de Laval’s being in the garden, sent us an invitation to the opera, which was to be performed that evening; but as we had brought with us no dress proper for such an occasion, we were forced to decline this obliging invitation. The Prince afterwards sent a carriage, in which we drove round the garden and parks. These are of vast extent, and beautiful beyond description; arbours, fountains, walks, woods, hills, and valleys, being thrown together in a charming confusion. If you will look over Ariosto’s description of the gardens in Alcina’s enchanted island, you will have an idea of the romantic fields of Estherhasie, which are also inhabited by the same kind of animals.

  Tra le purpuree rose e i bianchi gigli,

  Che tepid aura freschi ognora serba,

  Sicuri si vedean lepri e conigli:

  E cervi con la fronte alta e superba,

  Senza temer che alcun li uccida o pigli,

  Pascono, e stansi ruminando l’erba:

  E saltan daini e capri snelli e destri,

  Che sono in copia in quei luoghi campestri.

  M. de Laval was in raptures with the gardens of Estherhasie. In the height of his admiration, I asked him how they stood in his opinion compared with those of Versailles?

  “Ah, Parbleu! Monsieur,” answered he, “Versailles étoit fait exprès pour n’être comparé à rien.” He acknowledged, however, without difficulty, that, except France, no other country he had seen was so beautiful as this.

  Having wandered here many hours, we returned to the inn, where a servant waited with Prince Estherhasie’s compliments, and a basket containing two bottles of Tokay, and the same quantity of Champaign and of Old Hock. We lamented very sincerely, that we could not have the honour of waiting on this very magnificent Prince, and thanking him personally for so much politeness.

  A company of Italian singers and actors were then at the inn, and preparing for the opera. Great preparations were making for the entertainment of the Empress and all the Court, who are soon to make a visit of several days to Estherhasie. Though the Imperial family, and many of the nobility, are to lodge in the palace, yet every corner of this large and commodious inn is already bespoke for the company which are invited upon that occasion.

  Hungary is a very cheap country, the land being infinitely fertile, and in some places producing the most esteemed grape in Europe. It is beautified with lakes, the windings of the Danube, and many streams which flow into that fine river. In the woods of Hungary are bred a race of horses, the most active, hardy, and spirited, for their size, in the world. These have been found very useful in war, and the hussars, or light dragoons of the Austrian army, are mounted on them.

  The men in Hungary are remarkably handsome, and well-shaped. Their appearance is improved by their dress, which you know is peculiar, and very becoming.

  Lady M. W. Montagu asserts, that the Hungarian women are far more beautiful than the Austrian. For my part, I think of women, as M. de Laval does of Versailles; that they are not to be compared with any thing, not even with one another. And therefore, without presuming to take a comparative view of their beauty, it may be remarked in general, that where the men are handsome and well-made, it is natural to suppose, that the women will possess the same advantages; for parents generally bestow as much attention to the making of their daughters as of their sons. In confirmation of which doctrine, I can assure you, that I have seen as handsome women, as men, in Hungary, and one of the prettiest women, in my opinion, at present at the Court of Vienna, is a Hungarian.

  None of the Empress’s subjects are taxed so gently, or enjoy so many privileges as the Hungarians. This is partly owing to the grateful remembrance she has of their loyalty and attachment in the days of her distress. But although this sentiment were not so strong in her breast as it really is, there are political reasons for continuing to them the same exemptions and privileges; for nothing can be more dangerous than disobliging the inhabitants of a frontier country, which borders on an inveterate enemy. Nor could any thing please the Turks more, than to find the hearts of the Hungarians alienated from the house of Austria.

  I found this country, and the company of M. de Laval, so very agreeable, that I should have been happy to have extended our excursion farther; but he is obliged to set out soon for Chamberry to pay his duty to the Comte d’Artois, who is expected there to wait on his future spouse, the Princess of Savoy. We therefore returned by the direct road from Estherhasie to Vienna.

  From

  DR. GEMELLI-CARERI’S

  TRAVELS THROUGH EUROPE

  In Several Letters to the Counsellor Amato Danio.

  Dr. Giovanni Francesco Gemelli-Careri was a doctor of civil law, sufficiently rich and leisured. Having travelled through Europe in 1686, he set out on a tour of the entire world, which he accomplish
ed in 1698. He published his Giro del Mondo in six volumes octavo in Naples between 1699 and 1700; encouraged by its success, he brought out his Viaggi per Europa in two volumes, also at Naples, in 1701–04. In parenthesis, it might be worth observing that the Kingdom of Naples was, at that time, Spanish, which accounts for Dr. Gemelli-Careri’s “our Queen of Spain”.

  Both works were popular; in 1719 there was a new edition including both, in Venice, and there were more or less contemporary translations into French, German and English. The tour of the world first appeared in Churchill, vol. IV, and the travels through Europe in Churchill vol. VI (1732); his travels in China (taken out of the Giro del Mondo) appeared in Astley’s New General Collection in 1745. The only comparatively modern books in which he can be found are Macmillan’s The Globe Trotter in India two hundred years ago … (1895), which deals only with the doctor’s Indian travels, and A. Magnani’s Il viaggiatore Gemelli-Careri … e il suo “Giro del Mondo” (1900).

  LETTER II

  Of the greatness of Venice, the carnival, the nobility, theatres, etc.

  VENICE, JANUARY 29, 1686

  PRAY, Sir, observe how punctual I am in keeping my word, since I rather chuse to be troublesome, than to omit acquainting you with all I daily happen to see or hear. I persuade myself, that if you have not read all that epistle, or rather the long story I sent you four days ago, you have at least cast an eye upon the top of it, and consequently are inform’d, that I am in Venice, and, if you please, you may add, in perfect health, and sound as a roach, at your command, which is the main point. As God shall save you, lay aside your gravity, and conform a little to the genius of the carnival season, as I did when I came into this city; for I am not able to forbear being led away, in writing, by the extravagent itch that possesses me, and the Bacchanal fury that runs in my veins. What do you think on’t? Don’t I write as a pedantick schoolmaster talks? I will now, in the first place, describe to you the city of Venice, such as I have found it in these few days. Venice is a large, magnificent and plentiful city, built for the security, and delightful liberty of all sorts of persons; and govern’d by all the rules of a most excellent, and, by long experience, approv’d policy. Do but observe what I am about to say, and you will plainly perceive the truth of my assertion. As to the first part of it, no man in the world can deny it, if he does, but reflect, that it contains three hundred thousand inhabitants, all well to pass, thanks to their great trade, especially into the Levant: besides, there are seventy-two parishes, and fifty-nine monasteries of both sexes, a number not at all contemptible, if we please to call to mind the occasion of the interdict of Paul V.; above fifteen hundred bridges, which join the seventy-two islands; above two hundred stately palaces along the famous canal of Rialto; and lastly, that it is full eight miles in compass. My second article plainly verifies itself, forasmuch as the situation is wonderful strong, and therefore chosen to be the retreat, I know not whether of fishermen, or of noble families, flying from the cruelty of Attila the Hun, about the year 422. As for the charming liberty, it is such as pleases the noblest, and best inform’d nations in Europe; and, tho’ it be very chargeable to them, the Germans, Polanders, English and French, never fail coming every year, at this time, to enjoy the excellent opera’s, entertainments, balls, and all other sorts of diversions; and the more for that every person is allow’d to go mask’d into all places, concealing both the sex and countenance. Yet I do not think the liberty allow’d the women, in this particular, altogether commendable; and it is certain, that their going about with other masks they meet in the street, at inns, and at the Ridotto, eating sweet-meats, and drinking muskadine wine, is often the occasion of disorders. This very day, a husband had like to have kill’d his wife, they not knowing one another before they came into the inn, had not the good man of the house prevented it. However it is, such accidents daily happen; yet no doubt it is a great matter, that every one may go about where he pleases, without being disturb’d by any body. Since I have mention’d the Ridotto, you must understand, that it is otherwise called the devil’s house, being a palace, in the several rooms whereof there are about an hundred tables for gaming, which are worth to the republick at least an hundred thousand crowns a year. So much money is made of the cards and lights paid by the nobility, who alone are allow’d to keep a bank. Hither all the masks retire about the dusk of the evening, for at other times none but noblemen and absolute princes may go in, and they generally play at basset. All is done in silence, laying down the quantity of money every one designs to venture, on what card he pleases, all other particulars being mark’d down with bits of card; and, in the same manner, he that wins is paid without any hesitation or controversy. It is certainly a pleasant sight to behold so many strange fashions of cloaths, and ways of expressing themselves; and that the gamesters should so little value their money, and sometimes their whole estates. I go thither frequently; and am the better pleas’d, because I see their pleasure disturb’d by their losings, and my own satisfaction noway cross’d; forasmuch as I am there only a spectator, without intermedling in what they do: and indeed, were a man to write a play, he could no where make better remarks on the several passions, than at the Ridotto.