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A Pinch of Culinary Science

Page 19

by Anu Inkeri Hopia


  17 Can You Cut Down on the Salt Without Affecting the Taste?

  Cho, H., Kim, S. M., Jeong, S. S. & Kim, S. B. (2016). Comparison of salt taste thresholds and salt usage behaviors between adults in Myanmar and Korea. Asia Pacific Journal of Clinical Nutrition 25(4), 879–884. http://doi.org/10.6133/apjcn.092015.32.

  Elmer, P. J. (1988). The effect of dietary sodium reduction and potassium chloride supplementation on sodium chloride taste perceptions in mild hypertensives. Unpublished doctoral thesis. University of Minnesota. Referenced in: IOM (Institute of Medicine), Henney, J. E., Taylor C. L. & Boon C. S., (Eds.) (2010). Strategies to Reduce Sodium Intake in the United States. Washington, DC: The National Academies Press. https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/books/NBK50958.

  European Commission (s.a.). Salt campaign. Retrieved 14th January 2019 from https://ec.europa.eu/health/nutrition_physical_activity/high_level_group/nutrition_salt_en.

  Gillette, M. (1985). Flavor effects of sodium chloride. Food Technology, 39, 47–56. Referenced in Liem, D. Gie., Miremadi F. & Keast R. S. J. (2011). Reducing Sodium in Foods: The Effect on Flavor. Nutrients, 3(6), 694–711. http://doi.org/10.3390/nu3060694.

  Henney, J. E., Taylor, C.L. & Boon, C. S. (Eds.) (2010). Strategies to Reduce Sodium Intake in the United States. Institute of Medicine (US) Committee on Strategies to Reduce Sodium Intake. https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/books/NBK50956.

  Lawrence, G., Salles, C., Septier, C., Busch, J. & Thomas-Danguin, T. (2009). Odour–taste interactions: A way to enhance saltiness in low-salt content solutions. Food Quality and Preference, 20(3), 241–248. http://doi.org/10.1016/j.foodqual.2008.10.004.

  Lersch, M. (2007, May 1). Practical molecular gastronomy, part 5. Retrieved 14th January 2019 from https://blog.khymos.org/2007/05/01/practical-molecular-gastronomy-part-5.

  Nasri, N., Septier, C., Beno, N., Salles, C. & Thomas-Danguin, T. (2013). Enhancing salty taste through odour–taste–taste interactions: Influence of odour intensity and salty tastants’ nature. Food Quality and Preference, 28(1), 134–140. http://doi.org/10.1016/j.foodqual.2012.07.004.

  The Norwegian Directorate of eHealth (2017, June 21). Hvordan spise mindre salt? (How to Eat Less Salt?) Retrieved 14th January 2019 from https://helsenorge.no/kosthold-og-ernaring/kostrad/salt/hvordan-spise-mindre-salt.

  Umami Information Center (2017). Umami Rich Ingredients. Retrieved 14th January 2019 from https://www.umamiinfo.com/richfood.

  US Food and Drug Administration (2018, August 2). Sodium Reduction. Retrieved 14th January 2019 from https://www.fda.gov/food/ingredientspackaginglabeling/foodadditivesingredients/ucm253316.htm.

  World Health Organization (2016, June 30). Salt reduction. Retrieved 14th January 2019 from http://www.who.int/news-room/fact-sheets/detail/salt-reduction.

  World Health Organization Europe (2014, September 26). Reducing salt consumption. Retrieved 14th January 2019 from http://www.euro.who.int/en/health-topics/disease-prevention/nutrition/news/news/2014/09/reducing-salt-consumption.

  18 Physics Takes the Cake

  Barham, P. (2001). The science of cooking. Berlin: Springer, 151–157.

  19 The Great Norwegian Porridge Feud

  Brekke, L., Fet, M. & Fet, J. (2015). Personal communications, and mail correspondence August 2015.

  Brown, C. (2010). Broths to Bannocks: A History of Cooking in Scotland from 1690 to the Present Day. Lanark: Waverley Books Ltd.

  Haggrén, G., Halinen, P., Lavento, M., Raninen, S. & Wessman, A. (2015). Muinaisuutemme jäljet. Helsinki: Gaudeamus.

  Kolmonen, J. & Sommar, H. (2017). Cooking potato casserole (video). YLE – Finnish Broadcasting Company. https://yle.fi/aihe/artikkeli/2009/12/17/imelletyn-perunalaatikon-valmistus.

  Riddervold, A. & Ropeid, A. (1984). Popular diet in Norway and natural science during the 19th century. The porridge feud 1864–66. Ethnologia Scandinavica, 48–65.

  Ropeid, A. (1972). Fornuftigt madstel. Oslo: By og bygd – Yearbook of the Norwegian Museum of Cultural History 1971–72, 77–112.

  Sanden, J. (2006). Tradisjonsmat i Romsdal. Med oppskrifter. In J. Sanden (Ed.), Yearbook of Romsdal Museum (Vol. 2006, 11–57). Molde: Romsdal Museum. Retrieved 14th January 2019 from https://www.romsdalsmuseet.no/no/kunnskap/arboker.

  20 Doing the Dishes

  No references.

  Index

  2,3-dihydroxysuccinic acid, 18, 19

  2-hydroxybutanedioic acid, 18, 19

  A

  Acidity, 46, 156, 175

  Acids in cooking, 48–49; see also individual acids

  Al dente (“for the teeth”) structure, 159, 165

  America’s Test Kitchen, 124

  Amino acids, 24, 67, 69, 114

  Amylase, 67, 206, 208, 216

  Anthocyanins, 170

  Antioxidant, 69

  Apples, 15, 17

  “Aquafaba,” 43

  Argentinian Malbec, 156, 157

  Aroma compounds, 181

  Aromas, 17, 41, 42, 114, 144, 154, 156–157, 168, 170, 173, 175, 181, 184, 185, 186

  Aromatic foods and drinks, 169

  Asbjørnsen, Peter Christen, 201, 202, 203, 204, 205, 208

  Asceticism, 179, 180, 181

  Ascorbic acid, 69

  Astringency, 154, 173, 175

  B

  Bacteria, 89

  Bailey, Pia Snitkjær, 151, 154, 155, 156

  Baldwin, Douglas, 106

  Barbecuing/grilling, 97, 99, 103

  Barbeque sausage, 54

  Barham, Peter, 189, 196

  Basic risotto, 143–144, 146; see also White wine

  ingredients, 146

  procedure, 146

  Beaujolais, 156

  Beef bouillon, 185, 186, 187

  Beer, 171,

  vs. wine, 45

  Bitterness, 142, 143, 144, 145, 156, 157, 169, 177, 179

  Blanched potatoes, 81

  Blind tasting, 17, 48, 60, 94, 120, 144, 157, 163, 164, 185

  Blót, 130

  Boiling zone, 113, 115

  “Boneless tombs,” 128

  Bonifacius, Clemens, 199–200

  Bordeaux Chateau de Sequin, 173

  Botulinum bacteria, 89

  Bouillons, 149, 151, 185

  Bouquet garni, 150

  Brillat-Savarin, Jean Anthelme, 30

  British crisps, 180

  Bronze Age, 127, 128, 131, 136

  Broth, 149–157

  brown meat stock, 149–150

  red wine stock, 154–155

  blind tasting, 157

  components, 155

  experiment, 155–157

  stock cooking, 152–153

  Brown, Catherine, 205

  Brown cheese, 203

  Brown meat stock, 149–150

  Burnt residues, 216

  C

  Cabernet Sauvignon, 154

  Cake, 189–196

  drop, 196

  experiment, 191

  foamy structure, 191–193

  oven baking process, 194–195

  recipe, 190

  Calcium, 80, 84

  Caramelization reactions, 142

  Carbohydrates, 215

  Carbonate ions, 217

  Carbon dating, 128

  Carbon dioxide, 41

  Carbonic acid, 41

  Carlsberg beer, 171

  Chemical burning sensation, 169

  Chickpea foaming, 40–43

  Coagulation, 24, 46

  Coal barbecue, 106

  Coffee, 169

  Cold meat experiment, 120

  Cold skillet, 109–110, 115–116

  Cold-skillet salmon, 116

  ingredients, 116

  procedure, 116

  Collagen, 59, 113

  Condensation, 98, 103–104, 134

  Conduction, 97, 98–99, 101, 104, 105, 114, 134

  Conduction zone, 114

  Continuous phase, 55, 56, 59, 192

  Convection, 98, 101–103, 104, 105, 114, 134

  Convection ovens, 103

  Co
oked potato, 77–85; see also Red bacalao hotpot

  blind tasting, 81, 85

  experiment, 81

  firm potatoes, 79–81

  pectin methylesterase (PME), 82, 84–85

  turning soft, 77, 79

  Cooking eggs, 23–33

  around 100°C, 25–26

  in cooling water, 26–27

  DIY for, 32–33

  equipment and materials, 32

  procedure, 32

  serving suggestions, 33

  tips, 33

  in lab, 24–25

  temperature development, 31

  time and temperature effect on yolk structure, 28

  at 6X°C, 27–28

  Cooking loss, 62, 120–121

  Cooking pits, 128

  Cooking with heat, 104–107

  “Cook my meat calculator,” 122

  Cooling sensation, 169

  Crunching sounds, 171

  “Culinary Biophysics: on the Nature of the 6X°C Egg,” 27

  D

  Denaturation, 24, 35, 37, 48, 49, 51, 62, 66, 81, 114

  Diffusion rate, 93

  Digital cooking thermometer, see Kitchen thermometer

  Dishwasher detergents, 214, 215, 217

  Dishwashers, 213

  Dishwashing, 214, 217

  Dispersed phase, 56, 57, 58, 59, 192

  Dispersion, 56, 57, 58, 59, 60, 191, 214

  DIY for cooking 6X°C eggs, 32–33

  equipment and materials, 32

  procedure, 32

  serving suggestions, 33

  tips, 33

  Doing dishes, 213–217

  Dry codfish, 75

  Dry cooking, 129, 131, 135, 138

  Dry pasta, 159, 162

  Durum wheat pasta, 163–164, 165

  “Duvet porridge,” 139

  E

  Earth ovens, see Cooking pits

  Egg white, 23, 24, 25, 35, 38, 41, 43

  chemistry, 37

  proteins, 35, 40, 41, 49, 66

  Egg yolk, 23, 25, 29

  cooking time and temperature effect on, 28

  Electrostatic attraction, 91

  Elmer, Patricia, 179

  Emulsifiers, 54

  Emulsifying agents, 54, 55

  Emulsion, 35, 42, 54, 55, 56, 58, 59, 60, 62, 214

  “Emulsion sauce,” 56

  Enzymatic reaction, 65, 66–68, 70

  Enzymes, 65, 67–68, 73

  Enzyme theory, 71

  Esters, 17

  Ethanol, 49

  Evaporation, 79, 105

  Evaporation–condensation energy, 104

  F

  FAO, see Food and Agriculture Organization (FAO)

  Farm wives’ cooking practice, 200, 202, 203, 204, 209

  Fat and grease, 213

  Faye, Frans Christian, 203, 204, 208

  Fermentation, 87–88, 89

  Finland, 67, 68, 84, 128, 132, 183, 206

  Finnish Christmas potato casserole, 206, 207, 209, 216

  ingredients, 207

  procedure, 207

  Firm potatoes, 79–81

  Fish

  bouillon, 185, 186, 187

  salting and drying, 75

  Fish frying, 109–116

  cold-skillet salmon, 116

  ingredients, 116

  procedure, 116

  experiment, 111

  Flavor, 17, 18, 42, 43, 49, 65, 94, 106, 114, 123, 131, 142–143, 149, 150, 154, 156, 165, 169, 177, 179, 181–182, 184, 185, 186–187, 203, 206, 208–209

  Foams, 35, 36, 37–38, 40–43, 50, 51, 56, 59, 150, 191, 193, 214

  Food additives, 18, 19

  Food and Agriculture Organization (FAO), 59

  Food and Drug Administration, 184

  Food science, 151

  Food Technology, 177

  Frøst, Michael Bom, 20

  Fruit acids, 15, 17

  G

  Garlic, 65, 66

  Garum, 87

  Gas barbecue, 106

  Gel, 35, 42, 56, 58, 59, 60, 62, 161

  Gelatinization, 161, 162, 205

  Gillette, Marianne, 177

  Gliadins, 160

  Glucose, 144

  Glucosinolates, 69, 70

  Gluten, 43, 160, 161, 162, 181

  Glutenins, 160

  “Graving” process, 94

  Gravity, 93

  Gravlax, 87–94

  pinch of salt chemistry, 90–91

  salmon fillets with salt, 92

  salt dissolves in water, 91, 93–94

  H

  Hákarl, 88

  Haybox/straw box, 139

  Heat capacity, 134

  Heat conductivity, 114

  Heating, 97–107

  condensation, 103–104

  conduction, 98–99

  convection, 101–103

  cooking, 104–107

  radiation, 99–101

  sugar, 142

  Heat transfer, 105–106, 107, 134–135

  Hemicellulose, 79

  Hodge, John E., 114

  Hollandaise sauce, 143

  Holt-Hansen, Kristian, 171

  Hopia, Anu, 33, 90, 167

  Horse meat, 130

  Hot dogs, 53, 103

  Hot pan technique, 114, 115

  Hot skillet, 115

  Hydrogen peroxide, 217

  Hydrophilic part, 213

  I

  Ig Nobel Prize, 171

  Imelletty perunalaatikko, see Finnish Christmas potato casserole

  Industrially prepared foods, 183–185

  Infrared radiation, 99, 100

  Inhibitors, 67–68, 71

  Ions, 80, 90–91, 92, 93, 217

  Ippes, Jappe, 75

  Iron Age, 128

  Italian recipes, 159

  J

  Juicy fish, 109; see also Fish frying

  K

  KitchenAid machine, 40

  Kitchen thermometer, 109, 110, 136

  Klippfisk, 75

  L

  Lambs legs cooking, 133, 137

  Larousse Gastronomique, 141

  Late Iron Age, 130

  Legume-derived proteins, 42

  Lehtovaara, Tatu, 46, 68, 71, 90, 93, 109, 116, 119, 163, 190

  Lemon/Lime juice, 18, 48–49, 56, 69, 143, 168, 170, 181

  Lersch, Martin, 179

  Lingonberries, 51

  Lipophilic, 213

  Liquid foam, 191, 192, 193

  Loimulohi, 100, 103, 104

  London Symphony Orchestra, 172

  M

  Maillard, Louis Camille, 114, 150

  Maillard browning reactions, 113, 114, 124, 135, 142–143, 203

  Maillard zone, 113

  Malic acid, see 2-hydroxybutanedioic acid

  Mayonnaise, 29, 56

  Meat tempering, 119–124

  blind tasting, 120–122

  cold meat experiment, 120

  cooking rule, 122–124

  heating at 100°C, 123

  Mercadé-Prieto, Ruben, 27

  Meringue, 36–43

  chickpeas’ foaming, 40–43

  egg white chemistry, 37

  from egg white/pea, 35–36

  ingredients, 36

  procedure, 36

  Micelles, 213

  Microorganisms, 87, 122

  Microwave cooking, 100, 104, 106

  Mielby, Line Holler, 20

  Mirepoix, 150

  Mixture suppression effect, 143

  Mock apple pie, 16–20

  authentic, 18

  ingredients, 16

  procedure, 16–17

  psychology of eating, 18–20

  Modernist Cuisine, 106, 111, 113, 141

  Molecular gastronomy, 151

  Molecular Gastronomy, 23

  Monosodium glutamate (MSG), 182, 185

  Morot, Gil, 170

  Mouthfeel, 42, 59, 77, 142, 144, 154–155, 156

  MSG, see Monosodium glutamate (MSG)

  Multisensory experience, 168, 170
r />   Music, 172–175

  Mussels, 45–49, 141, 182

  acids in cooking, 48–49

  blind tasting, 48

  ingredients, 47

  procedure, 47

  steamed, 47–49

  Mustard, 65–73

  and enzyme theory, 71

  experiment, 72

  homemade, 68

  ingredients, 68, 72

  myrosinase enzyme liberating pungent compounds, 70

  procedure, 72

  pungency, 69–70, 71, 73

  Mustard powders, 71

  Myanmar, 180

  Myhrvold, Nathan, 113

  Myosin, 62

  Myrosinase, 68, 70, 73

  N

  Narmo, Lars Erik, 131, 132

  National Hot Dog and Sausage Council, 53

  Nordic countries, 127–128, 129

  Norway, 75, 77, 88, 139, 199, 202, 204, 205, 208

  Norwegian porridge, 199–210

  “brown cheese,” 203

  experiment, 203–204

  farm wives’ cooking practice, 200, 202, 203, 204

  flavor hypothesis, 206, 208–209

  nutrition hypothesis, 204–205

  procedure, 200–203

  proving hypothesis, 209–210

  texture hypothesis, 205

  O

  Onion, 65, 66

  Oven baking process, 194–195

  Oxford English Dictionary, 43

  Oxidation process, 69

  P

  Paleolithic Era, 128

  Pancake, 191

  Pasta, 159–165

  chemical substances in, 160

  experiment, 163–165

  gelatinization of wheat starch, 161

  role of salt, 162

  Pectin, 77, 78, 79–80, 82

  Pectin methylesterase (PME), 67, 80, 81, 82, 84–85

  pH, 24, 41, 45, 46, 70, 71, 89

  PME, see Pectin methylesterase (PME)

  Polarity, 181

  Pollan, Michael, 19

  Polyphenol oxidase (PPO), 68

  Popper, Karl, 129, 209

  Pork sausages, 60

  Porridge cooking experiments, 181

  Potato crisps, 171

  PPO, see Polyphenol oxidase (PPO)

  Prehistoric cooking, 127–139

  cooking pit, 131–135

  temperature monitoring, 136–138

  tender meat, 135–136

  historical perspective, 127–131

  Processed food, 18

  Protease enzymes, 215

  Proteins, 24, 35, 37, 41, 42, 46, 48–49, 51, 55, 66, 67, 192, 214–215

  Pungency, 65–66, 68, 69–70, 71, 73

  R

  Radiation, 97, 99–101, 134

  Rakfisk, 88

  Rastas, Arto, 33

  “Ready salted” crisps, 180

  Red bacalao hotpot, 76–77; see also Cooked potato

  ingredients, 76

  procedure, 76

  1–2 days before serving, 76

  on day of serving, 76

 

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