Lonely Planet Morocco
Page 30
The most heavily used entrances are through Bab Marrakech on Ave Tahar El Alaoui or through the gate next to the rebuilt clock tower at the northeast corner of Pl des Nations Unies. The narrow lanes near these gates are where most shops are found; the rest of the medina remains largely residential.
On the north side of the medina, facing the port, you’ll see the last remains of Casablanca’s 18th-century fortifications. Known as the sqala, the bastion offers panoramic views over the sea.
Clock TowerLANDMARK
( MAP GOOGLE MAP )
Marking the busiest entrance to the old medina, this 20m-tall clock tower is one of the most recognisable landmarks in downtown Casablanca. The current tower is a 1993 reproduction of the original 1911 structure, which fell into disrepair and was dismantled around 1950.
Church of St John the EvangelistCHURCH
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.stjohnscasablanca.org; Rue des Anglais; jPlace Nations Unies)
The oldest church building still in use in Casablanca, this Anglican house of worship was built in 1906 on land owned by the British Crown. There are services at 9.30am (contemporary) and 11.30am (traditional) each Sunday. The cemetery ( GOOGLE MAP ; Rue des Anglaise; jPlace Nations Unies) on the site predates the church, having been built in 1864. The pulpit was donated by General George Patton, the WWII general who led Allied troops ashore at Safi in November 1942 as part of Operation Torch.
Place Mohammed VSQUARE
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Ave Hassan II; jPlace Mohammed V)
Surrounded by public buildings resplendent with Mauresque details, this central plaza was being redeveloped at the time of research. When reopened it will feature paving, a large fountain and palm trees. Overlooking it will be the the newly constructed Grand Théâtre de Casablanca designed by Moroccan-born French citizen and Pritzker Prize–winning architect Christian de Portzamparc. Both the plaza and the opera house are due to be unveiled in late 2017.
Villa des Arts de CasablancaGALLERY
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0522 29 50 87; www.fondationona.ma; 30 Blvd Brahim Roudani; hduring exhibitions 9.30am-7pm Tue-Sat; jAvenue Hassan II)F
Located in an elegant 1934 art deco villa dating from 1934, this gallery, near Parc de la Ligue Arabe, is operated by the nonprofit Fondation ONA. It stages exhibitions of contemporary Moroccan and international art.
Parc de la Ligue ArabePARK
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Ave Hassan II; jPlace Mohammed V, Avenue Hassan II)
This large green space was being redeveloped at the time of research and was due to reopen in March 2017. The rehabilitated park will feature promenades lined with palm trees, water features, a stadium, a skate park and an underground car park. The Cathédrale du Sacré Coeur, ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Blvd Rachidi; jPlace Mohammed V) in its northwest corner, will be retained.
Church of Notre-Dame de LourdesCHURCH
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; cnr Ave Mers Sultan & Blvd Mohammed Zerktouni; jAvenue Hassan II)
A striking example of European modernism, this 1956 Catholic church is notable for its elongated concrete entrance and its striking stained-glass windows, which were designed by noted French artist Gabriel Loire. It overlooks the Rond-point de l'Europe (aka Mers Sultan Roundabout).
Maarif
Moroccan Jewish MuseumMUSEUM
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0522 99 49 40; www.casajewishmuseum.com; 81 Rue Chasseur Jules Gros, Quartier Oasis; Dh50; h10am-5pm Mon-Fri, 11am-3pm Sun; jGare de l'Oasis)
The only Jewish museum in the Arab-speaking world, this institution is set in an attractive garden villa that once functioned as a Jewish orphanage. It traces the 2000-year history of Jews in Morocco, focusing on Casablanca's Jewish community (most of the country's Jews live here). The thoughtfully curated and well-labelled collection includes ornate clothing, traditional tools and ritual objects. Photographs usually feature in the temporary exhibition space, and there's a reconstructed 1930s synagogue from Larache in an adjoining room.
The museum is 1km from the Gare de l'Oasis tram stop. From the tram stop, walk down Route de l'Oasis past the train station and then turn right into Rue Abu Dhabi. Rue Chasseur Jules Gros is the sixth street to the left. A taxi from the city centre will cost Dh40, but note that most taxi drivers are unaware of the museum's existence so will need to be given directions. Also note that it is sensible to call ahead to check that the museum is open as it sometimes closes when the security situation is unsettled. Students are given free entry on Wednesdays.
Quartier Habous (Nouvelle Medina)
The Quartier Habous, or Nouvelle (New) Medina, is Morocco lite – an idealised version of a traditional medina with clean streets, attractive Mauresque buildings and arcades, neat rows of shop stalls and even a small park. Built by the French in the 1930s, it was a unique experiment: a medina built to Western standards to accommodate the first rural exodus in the 1920s. Though undeniably ersatz, it blends Moroccan architecture with French ideals very successfully and its souq offers excellent opportunities to source souvenirs.
The Royal Palace (closed to the public) is to the north of the district, while to the south is the old Mahakma du Pasha ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Blvd Victor Hugo), which has more than 60 rooms decorated with sculpted wooden ceilings, stuccowork, wrought-iron railings and earthenware floors. This is not always open to visitors.
The Quartier is located about 2.5km southeast of Place Mohammed V.
Aïn Diab & Anfa
These affluent suburbs on the Atlantic beachfront are lined with beach clubs, upmarket hotels, restaurants, bars and clubs. Long the city's entertainment hub, the area is now equally popular for its shopping, courtesy of the Morocco and Anfa Place malls.
The sandy beach at Ain Diab is popular with young locals but isn't clean, so those who can afford to do so tend to pay for day entry to one of the beach clubs. Two of the better ones, Miami Fitness Club & Spa and Tahiti Beach Club, offer swimming pools, chaises, umbrellas and other facilities.
The Casablanca tramway goes to Ain Diab, where it terminates. The ride from Pl Mohammed V takes approximately 35 minutes. A taxi from the centre should cost around Dh35 (Dh70 at night).
CASABLANCA IN...
One Day
Start your day by visiting the city's major landmark and tourist drawcard, the Hassan II Mosque. Next, head to Sqala, in the ramparts, or Restaurant du Port de Pêche, in the port compound, for lunch, before wandering through the Old Medina and taking an architecture-focused stroll around the downtown area. In the evening, pay homage to a cinema classic by dining at Rick's Café or head to the beachside suburb of Ain Diab to sample traditional Moroccan dishes at Basmane or mod Med creations at ultrachic Le Cabestan.
Two Days
With another day to enjoy the city, start in the Quartier Habous, where you can pick up some souvenirs at the souq and buy a selection of Moroccan pastries at Pâtisserie Bennis Habous – enjoy these with a good coffee at Cafe Imperial. In the afternoon, pop into the Abderrahman Slaoui Foundation Museum to admire its collection of Moroccan decorative arts, check out an exhibition at the Villa des Arts de Casablanca and then finish the day by enjoying an excellent French dinner at old-fashioned favourite Restaurant Brasserie La Bavaroise followed by a drink and a dance at La Bodéga.
2Activities
Tahiti Beach ClubSWIMMING
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0522 79 80 25; www.tahitibeachclub.ma; Blvd de la Corniche, Ain Diab; adult Mon-Fri Dh150-200, Sat & Sun Dh200-300, child daily Dh50-100; jAin Diab Plage)
The city's most popular beach club has two venues, with the cheaper one on the eastern side the more popular. It offers three restaurants, two swimming pools, a gym, a spa, a kids club and a surf school. The entry price includes use of chaise-lounges and umbrellas.
Miami Fitness Club & SpaSWIMMING
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0522 20 67 24; http://miamifitnessclubcasa.ma; Blvd de la Corniche, Ain Diab; per day adult/child Dh80/50; hMay-Sep; jAin Diab Plage)
As well as a gym and spa, this fitness club offers a plage (beach) area with basketball
and volleyball courts, a swimming pool and a restaurant. Cabana/chaise/umbrella hire cost Dh200/25/25.
Club Alpin FrançaisTREKKING
(CAF; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0522 99 01 41; http://cafmaroc2011.ffcam.fr; 50 Blvd Sidi Abderrahmane, Quartier Beausejour; jCité de l'Air)
Organises canyoning, trekking, spelunking (caving), kayaking and mountain climbing activities, operates mountain refuges (huts) and has an informative French-language website.
Hammam ZianiHAMMAM
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0522 31 96 95; 59 Rue Abou Rakrak, Quartier Alsace; Dh50; h7am-10pm; jAvenue Hassan II)
Offering the traditional steam room and gommage (scrub) for Dh80, this modern spa and hammam also offers massage for Dh100.
Institut FrançaisLANGUAGE
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0522 77 98 70; http://if-maroc.org; 121-123 Blvd Mohammed Zerktouni; h8.30am-6.30pm Mon-Sat, 10am-2pm Sun; jAvenue Hassan II)
Presents cultural events and offers semester-long French-language courses.
Central Casablanca
1Sights
1Church of St John the EvangelistA2
2Clock TowerB1
3Place Mohammed VA4
4Sleeping
4Hôtel AstridB4
5Hotel du PalaisB4
6Hotel GuynemerB3
7Hôtel les SaisonsC1
8Hôtel MaamouraC3
9Hyatt Regency CasablancaA2
5Eating
10Al-MouniaB4
11Dar BeidaA2
12La BodégaD2
13La Taverne du DauphinC1
14Marché CentralD2
15Restaurant Brasserie La BavaroiseD2
6Drinking & Nightlife
16Café AlbaB3
17Petit PoucetC2
3Entertainment
18Cinéma RialtoC3
19Complexe Culturel Sidi BelyoutD2
Transport
20AvisC1
21BudgetC2
22Bus 10 to Gare Routière Ouled ZianeB2
23CTM Bus StationD2
24Petits TaxisC2
25President CarB3
zFestivals & Events
Anfa FestivalMUSIC
(hJul)
Free outdoor music and performance festival staged on the beach in Ain Diab. Includes dance, theatre and music in a variety of genres, with an emphasis on Moroccan chaabi.
JazzablancaMUSIC
(http://jazzablanca.com; hApr)
Weeklong jazz festival at the Hippodrome de Casa-Anfa featuring local and international acts.
L’Boulevard Festival of CasablancaCULTURAL
(www.boulevard.ma; Aux Anciens Abattoirs de Casablanca, Quartier Hay Mohammadi; hOct)
This five-day music and arts festival in the city's historic abattoirs building features free concerts, circus arts and a handicrafts souq.
CASABLANCA: THE FILM
Memorable performances, a haunting signature song and a sensational script by Julius J Epstein, Philip G Epstein and Howard Koch make the 1942 film Casablanca one of Hollywood’s greatest achievements. Inspired by Murray Burnett and Joan Allison’s unproduced stage play Everybody Comes to Rick’s, producer Hal B Wallis and director Michael Curtiz put together a stellar cast and crew and shot the film in just over two months at the Warner Bros studio in Burbank, California. No scenes were filmed in Casablanca itself, but the city and its cosmopolitan wartime population were wonderfully evoked, and images of Rick’s Café Américain, street cafes and the souq gave many cinema-goers their first-ever visual introduction to the Maghreb.
Watching the film today, it’s both fascinating and sobering to consider how its story of refugees and lost souls stranded in a foreign place mirrors the contemporary geopolitical situation and the plight of refugees from Syria and other war-torn countries.
It has become almost obligatory for travellers visiting modern-day Casablanca to pop into Rick’s Café on the edge of the old medina for a cocktail or meal while being serenaded by pianist Issam. When quizzed, Issam says that he can’t imagine how many times he has played ‘As Time Goes By’, but admits that he still enjoys doing so. Here’s looking at him.
4Sleeping
Occupancy rates and prices are higher in Casablanca than elsewhere in Morocco, so it's always a good idea to book your accommodation in advance to secure a room at the best available price.
Budget hotels here are almost uniformly poor value – check for cleanliness before booking in – and good midrange options are few and far between. There are plenty of topend options, predominantly catering to business travellers.
Hotel GuynemerHOTEL€
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0522 27 57 64; hotelguynemer@yahoo.com; 2 Rue Mohammed Belloul; s/d incl breakfast Dh350/450, ste s/d incl breakfast Dh450/650; aW; jPlace Mohammed V)
Friendly and well-priced, the Guynemer has recently undergone a major renovation but the owners have ensured that many of the building's original features have been retained (most date from the 1930s). Regular rooms are comfortable but slightly cramped (especially the bathrooms); suite rooms are well-sized. All have double-glazed windows, satellite TV and good beds. Parking costs Dh10 per 24 hours.
Hotel CentralHOTEL€
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %022 26 25 25; www.hotelcentralcasa.com; 20 Pl Ahmed El Bidaoui, Old Medina; s/d/tr incl breakfast Dh340/400/500; i)
In a somewhat isolated location on the edge of the old medina, this hybrid hotel-hostel occupies a handsome but worn colonial-era building and has helpful staff. To find it, look for the big information sign and multicoloured stairs opposite the port. Be warned that the area isn't particularly safe at night.
There's a pleasant roof terrace with a view across to the Hassan II Mosque. The best rooms are those on the top floor with balcony; others can be dark. Wi-fi is spotty.
Hôtel AstridHOTEL€
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0522 27 78 03; hotelastrid@hotmail.com; 12 Rue 6 Novembre; s/d Dh330/440; W; jPlace Mohammed V)
Though in dire need of an overhaul (fittings are extremely worn), this dated budget option is worth considering as it is relatively clean, offers good wi-fi and has helpful staff. Credit card payments are not accepted.
Hotel du PalaisHOTEL€
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0522 27 61 91; 68 Rue Farhat Hachad; s/d without bathroom Dh150/230, d/tr with bathroom Dh200/280; i; jPlace Mohammed V)
The dowdy du Palais offers worn, relatively clean and noisy rooms with decent beds. A warm-ish shower costs Dh10.
Hôtel MaamouraHOTEL€€
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0522 45 29 67; www.hotelmaamoura.com; 59 Rue Ibnou Batouta; s/d/tr incl breakfast Dh450/600/700; paW; jMarché Central)
Popular with small tour companies and regular visitors to the city, this well-priced hotel offers clean and spacious rooms, a good breakfast and helpful staff. Wi-fi can be patchy.
Hôtel les SaisonsHOTEL€€
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0522 49 09 01; www.hotellessaisonsmaroc.ma; 19 Rue el-Oraïbi Jilali; s/d/ste incl breakfast Dh950/1150/1450; aW; jPlace Nations Unies)
This small and efficiently run modern hotel near Casa Port train station offers clean and comfortable rooms, a decent breakfast and an in-house restaurant serving alcohol.
Hotel BelleriveHOTEL€€
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0522 79 75 04; www.hotelbellerive-casablanca.com; 38 Blvd de la Corniche, Ain Diab; s/d/tr/q incl breakfast Dh620/820/1120/1420; paWs; jAin Diab)
A beachfront terrace, pool and garden compensate for the dated and slightly grubby rooms at this French-speaking family-run hotel on the Corniche. Many rooms have ocean views, but they also overlook the terrace bar, which is open to the public and can be noisy.
oHôtel Le 135HOTEL€€€
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0522 27 91 12; www.le135hotel.com; 135 Ave Hassan II; s/d/tr Dh1400/1800/1900; paW; jAvenue Hassan II)
Good upper-midrange accommodation choices are few and far between in Casablanca, so the 2016 opening of this 10-room hotel opposite the Parc de la Ligue Arabe was greeted with acclaim by regular visitors to the city. Huge, light-
filled rooms are exceptionally well appointed (top-quality bed, satellite TV, bathtub and shower). Breakfast costs Dh100 per person and parking Dh35 per night.
Four Seasons Hotel CasablancaHOTEL€€€
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0529 07 37 00; www.fourseasons.com/casablanca/; Blvd de la Corniche, Anfa; r Dh3250-4850, ste Dh5250-80,050; pnaWs#)
Located on the beach in Anfa and opened in late 2015, this Foster and Partners–designed hotel has style and swank in spades. Rooms are huge and lavishly appointed, in-house restaurants have seating overlooking the ocean (but no alcohol) and service is exemplary. When not lazing by the heated outdoor pool, guests are often found in the luxury spa.
Breakfast costs Dh350 and the hotel's popular buffet afternoon tea (Friday to Sunday, 4pm to 7pm) costs Dh200.
Le DogeBOUTIQUE HOTEL€€€
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0522 46 78 00; www.hotelledoge.com; 9 Rue Docteur Veyre; r Dh1640-1840, ste Dh2440-2640; paW#; jPlace Mohammed V)