Casablanca's only boutique hotel occupies a lovingly restored art deco villa in a quiet street near Pl Mohammed V. Its 16 rooms are individually decorated and very comfortable, with quality toiletries. The lounge-library with open fire is a drawcard in winter and the luxe spa is popular at all times. Our only caveat? We found the breakfast (Dh180) very disappointing.
Hyatt Regency CasablancaHOTEL€€€
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0522 43 12 34; https://casablanca.regency.hyatt.com; Pl des Nations Unies; r Dh2200-2600, ste Dh3900-27,000; pnaiWs; jPlace Nations Unies)
Its central location means that this efficiently operated hotel is a popular meeting place for Casablancais, who enjoy lunch in Café M, a coffee or drink in the foyer, or a meal at swish Moroccan restaurant Dar Beida. Rooms are spacious, comfortable and extremely well equipped; facilities include a fitness centre and an outdoor pool. Service is both friendly and efficient.
2City Walk
Central Casablanca's Mauresque Architecture
Start Cathédrale du Sacré Coeur, Blvd Rachidi
End Pl du 16 Novembre
Length 3km; one hour
Central Casablanca has a rich architectural heritage dominated by a style of architecture commonly known as Mauresque (Moorish). Developed in the 1920s and 1930s, this blend of French-colonial design and traditional Moroccan style was heavily influenced by the art deco and art nouveau movements – hallmarks include ornate wrought-iron balconies, rounded exterior corners and decorative facades and friezes. These were incorporated alongside traditional Moroccan features such as arches, cupolas, columns, mashrabiyyas (wooden-lattice screens), muqarnas (decorative plaster vaulting) and richly coloured zellij (tilework).
Sadly, most of the city's Mauresque buildings are in an atrocious state of disrepair. Others have been demolished in recent years to make way for the huge development projects under way across the city centre. This walking tour identifies some of the most notable examples in the downtown precinct, along with a few art deco and art nouveau gems.
Start on the northwest edge of the Parc de la Ligue Arabe at the unusual white 1Cathédrale du Sacré Coeur, an extraordinary architectural meld of the art deco, Mauresque and neo-Gothic styles, with twin towers that resemble minarets and decorative aperture-style windows. Walk around the building to see the cathedral's buttresses and spires in all their glory, peek inside to admire the massive stained glass window and then continue southeast along Blvd Rachidi to 2Place Mohammed V, which was being redeveloped at the time of research. This is surrounded by impressive administrative buildings, with the 1930s 3wilaya (old police headquarters, now governor’s office) dominating the south side. Though topped by a modernist clock tower, the upper-storey detailing of the wilaya has pronounced Gothic and Islamic echoes, making it a true architectural oddity.
The nearby 4Tribunal de Premiere Instance (palais de justice or law courts) dates from 1925. Its huge main entrance, with its stucco and tile detailing, was inspired by the Persian iwan, a vaulted hall that opens into the central court of the medersa (theological college) of a mosque.
On the northern side of the square is Casablanca's 5main post office, built between 1918 and 1920, fronted by arches and stone columns and decorated with richly coloured art nouveau–style mosaics. The carved stucco on the facade of the nearby 6Banque al-Maghrib on Blvd de Paris, and the ornate main door with its mashrabiyya-style detailing, reference traditional Moroccan architecture, although the building's form is decidedly modern.
From here, walk east on Rue Driss Lahrizi, where impressive facades line both sides of the street. The most striking of these is 7La Princière Salon de Thé, with its huge stone crown on the roofline.
Next, turn right into Rue Tahar Sabti, which is lined with colonial buildings that are now apartments, hotels and offices. The most impressive of these is the art deco 8Hotel Amouday at No 51, with its distinctive ocean-liner-style design. Further on are two striking art deco bars and the handsome empire-style BMCE building.
Take a V-turn left into Rue Colbert and look for 9Hôtel Transatlantique, a handsome building dating from 1922. The filigree-like detailing surrounding the main entrance is quite striking. Then turn right into Rue Abdul Karim Diouri to find aHotel Volubilis with its recessed balcony, burnished-gold detailing and art nouveau signage.
Turn left up Rue Ibnou Batouta and continue to the corner of Blvd Mohammed V. Then turn left and look out for an array of wonderful facades along the street's south side. The bCentral Market Post Office, with its delicate motifs, and cLe Matin/Maroc Soir, with its classic style, are two of the most impressive.
At the end of this block, on the corner of Rue Mohammed el-Qory, is dPetit Poucet, a bar-cafe once frequented by Antoine de Saint-Exupéry, Édith Piaf and Albert Camus, but now sadly dishevelled. Turn left here into Rue Mohammed el-Qory to find the eCinéma Rialto, a hardly changed art deco gem where Michael Curtiz' 1942 film Casablanca is still occasionally screened. Continue south to the junction with Ave Houmane el-Fetouaki and turn right to reach fPl du 16 Novembre, home to plenty of art deco buildings.
For more information on Casablanca's 20th-century architectural heritage see www.casamemoire.org or the Casablanca Histoire et Architecture Facebook page.
5Eating
Fresh fish and seafood are the local speciality. Rue Chaouia, located opposite the Marché Central, is the best place for a quick eat, with a line of rotisseries, stalls and restaurants serving roast chicken, brochettes and sandwiches (Dh20 to Dh30). It’s open until about 2am.
Downtown Casa & Maarif
oPâtisserie Bennis HabousBAKERY€
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0522 30 30 25; 2 Rue Fkih el-Gabbas, Quartier Habous; pastries Dh5; h8am-9pm)
Secreted in a lane in the Souq Habous, this famous patisserie deserves a dedicated visit. Make your choice of traditional Maghribi pastries such as cornes de gazelle (gazelle horns; pastries filled with a paste of almond and orange water) or akda aux amandes (almond macaroons), then head to nearby Cafe Imperial to order a coffee and scoff your bounty.
Marché CentralMARKET€
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; meals from Dh40; h9am-6pm; jMarché Central)
The Marché Central is a great place to go for lunch – busy tables from a dozen simple eateries are crammed with diners feasting on huge platters of fish, grilled vegetables, bread, salads and seafood soup. Cheap, filling and perfect for people-watching.
oRestaurant du Port de PêcheSEAFOOD€€
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0522 31 85 61; Le Port de Pêche; mains Dh90-135; hnoon-2.30pm & 7-10.30pm)
Packed to the gills at lunch and dinner, this tried and trusted restaurant on the upstairs floor of a building in the middle of Casablanca's port serves the city's freshest and best seafood. Fish can be enjoyed fried or grilled, plain or meunière, and there are oysters and other shellfish on offer. Note that smokers on nearby tables are inevitable.
oRick’s CaféMEDITERRANEAN€€
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0522 27 42 07; www.rickscafe.ma; 248 Blvd Sour Jdid, Old Medina; mains Dh100-180; hnoon-3pm & 6.30pm-1am)
It may be as clichéd as they come, but this tribute bar and restaurant is both endearing and enjoyable. Run by a former American diplomat, it has loads of atmosphere and serves good Moroccan and international food. American crooners dominate the soundtrack when pianist Issam takes a break, and Sunday's jazz sessions, which start at 9.30pm, are everpopular.
La BodégaTAPAS€€
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0522 54 18 42; www.restopro.ma/bodega/; 129 Rue Allah ben Abdellah; tapas Dh45-70, mains Dh80-160; hnoon-3pm Mon-Sat, 7pm-2am daily; W; jMarché Central)
Local partygoers of all ages love this hybrid tapas bar-restaurant where meaty dishes are served accompanied by a soundtrack of loud – and often live – music (everything from salsa to Arabic pop). Rioja (Spanish wine) flows freely and the dance floor is packed after 10pm on weekends. At other times there may be football on the big screen or even flamenco performances.
SqalaMOROCCAN€€
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0522 26 09 60; www.squala.ma; Blvd des Almohades; set breakfast Dh90, mains Dh75-170; hnoon-3pm & 7-11pm Mon, 8am-11pm Wed-Sun)
Nestled in the ochre walls of the sqala, an 18th-century fortified bastion on the edge of the old medina, this pretty garden restaurant is a tranquil escape from the downtown bustle. Particularly popular for breakfast, it also serves briouates (bite-sized flaky-pastry triangles), tajines, pastillas (savoury pies) and brochettes. No alcohol is served, but there’s a good selection of fresh juices (Dh22).
La Taverne du DauphinFRENCH€€
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0522 22 12 00; www.taverne-du-dauphin.com; 115 Blvd Houphouët Boigny; mains Dh80-130; hnoon-11pm Mon-Sat; jPlace Nations Unies)
A Casablanca institution, this staunchly traditional restaurant near Casa Port has been serving up fruits de mer (seafood) since it opened in 1958 and is particularly busy at lunchtimes. Service is friendly, there are dedicated smoking and nonsmoking sections and the set menu of three courses plus coffee for Dh120 is a major bargain.
MarnyCAFE€€
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0522 25 48 10; http://marnymaroc.com/; 45 Cour des Sports, Ferme Bretonne; set breakfast Dh20-65, pastas Dh85-115, burgers Dh85-95; h7am-9pm; jBeauséjour)
A popular expat haunt, this cafe and bakery located in front of the Cour des Sports rugby club and close to the French Club has a modern airy interior and a pleasant front garden. Bread, pastries and gateaux are the house specialities and are heartily recommended. No alcohol.
oRestaurant Brasserie La BavaroiseFRENCH€€€
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0522 31 17 60; www.bavaroise.ma; 133 Rue Allah ben Abdellah; mains Dh160-230; hnoon-10.30pm Mon-Fri, 7-10.30pm Sat; a; jMarché Central)
Located in a dishevelled street behind the Marché Centrale, La Bavaroise has been serving an ultraloyal local clientele since 1968 and shows no sign of losing its popularity. The speciality is grass-fed beef from the Atlas served in the form of steak with pommes frites, green salad and French-style sauces. Other highlights include oysters from Dakhla and decadent desserts.
Le Rouget de L’isleFRENCH€€€
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0522 29 47 40; 16 Rue Rouget de l’Isle; mains Dh170-270; hnoon-3pm Mon-Fri, 7.30-11pm Mon-Sat; jPlace Mohammed V)
Occupying a charming 1930s villa in a leafy street near the Slaoui Museum, this upmarket restaurant is known for its wonderful garden redolent with night-blooming jasmine. It's a romantic spot for dinner in warm weather – in the cooler months the modern French dishes are enjoyed in the art-adorned dining salon.
Al-MouniaMOROCCAN€€€
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0522 22 26 69; 95 Rue Prince Moulay Abdallah; mains Dh120-180; hnoon-3pm & 7-10.30pm Mon-Sat; jPlace Mohammed V)
You'll sit in a salon decorated with zellij or under an old pepper tree in an attractive courtyard when dining at this long-standing Casablancan favourite. The menu features traditional Moroccan favourites (couscous, tajines, brochettes, pastilla). Sadly, service can be a tad unfriendly.
OstréaSEAFOOD€€€
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0522 44 13 90; Le Port de Pêche; mains Dh120-240; hnoon-11.30pm)
The Casablanca branch of the famous Oualidia oyster farm and restaurant is located within the port complex. Be sure to start with oysters (au naturel or au gratin) and follow with fresh shellfish or fish.
Dar BeidaMOROCCAN€€€
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0522 43 12 34; https://casablanca.regency.hyatt.com; Hyatt Regency Casablanca, Pl des Nations Unies; mains Dh190-270; h7pm-2am; aW; jPlace des Nations Unies)
Attentive service and luxurious surrounds are the hallmarks of this reliable restaurant in the Hyatt Regency. You'll dine on a low couch and look your best under the mood lighting – it's a great place for a romantic tête-à-tête, especially as there is live oud (lute) music most nights. Traditional dishes dominate the menu and there's an excellent wine list.
Aïn Diab & Anfa
Frédéric Cassel Haute PatisserieCAFE€€
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0522 94 93 82; 8 Blvd Moulay Rachid, Anfa; pastries from Dh12; h8am-10pm)
This French cafe and patisserie in upmarket Anfa has indoor and outdoor seating, serves good pastries and cakes, and is an popular choice for breakfast.
BasmaneMOROCCAN€€€
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0522 79 70 70; www.basmane-restaurant.com; cnr Blvds Océan Atlantique & de la Corniche, Ain Diab; mains Dh165-320; hnoon-1am; a; jAin Diab)
The moneyed residents of nearby Anfa comprise most of the clientele at this classy restaurant in the Hôtel Club Val d'Anfa, lured by the expertly prepared traditional Moroccan dishes it serves. It's best visited at night, when mood lighting illuminates the zellij-covered walls. Service is friendly and there's live music and belly dancers most nights.
Le CabestanMEDITERRANEAN€€€
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0522 39 11 90; www.le-cabestan.com; 90 Blvd de la Corniche; mains Dh140-290; hnoon-2am)
The limousines parked outside this ultrafashionable restaurant-bar-club perched on a clifftop beneath the Phare d'El Hank (El Hank Lighthouse) signal the fact that it is the most fashionable venue in the city. The mod Med menu is dominated by fish, and quality is high. Book ahead to request a table on the terrace or next to a panoramic window.
6Drinking & Nightlife
There are plenty of dive bars in the centre of town, but these lack charm and are off-limits for all females except prostitutes. In general, the bars in the larger hotels – especially the Hyatt Regency or Sofitel Tour Blanche – or trendy restaurants such as Le Cabestan are better choices.
The beachfront suburb of Ain Diab is the main place for late-night drinking and dancing. However, hanging out with Casablanca’s beautiful people for a night on the town doesn’t come cheap. Expect to pay at least Dh150 to get into any club and as much again for a drink. Heavy-set bouncers guard the doors and practise tough crowd control – if you don’t look the part, you won’t get in. Many of these clubs cater for well-heeled Gulf Arabs (a Saudi prince has a palace on the Corniche), and Egyptian or Lebanese performers are popular.
Sky 28BAR
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0522 97 80 00; www.kenzi-hotels.com; 28th fl, Kenzi Tower Hotel, Twin Centre, Blvd Zerktouni, Maarif; h3pm-2am)
Well-made expensive cocktails, live music sets and DJs with a fondness for rhythm and blues are the hallmarks of this ritzy restaurant, bar and club on top of the Kenzi Tower Hotel. The sensational view extends across the city towards the Hassan II Mosque and the food menu includes sushi (Dh160 for 12 pieces), Dakhla oysters (Dh150 for six) and burgers (Dh160).
Café AlbaCAFE
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0522 22 71 54; 59-61 Rue Driss Lahrizi; h6.30am-9.30pm; jMarché Central)
A hint of colonial elegance and a female-friendly atmosphere differentiate Café Alba from the vast majority of cafes around town. The premium seating is in the front arcade, and the set breakfast deals offer the best value.
Cafe ImperialCAFE
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Quartier Habous; h8am-10pm)
Greatly benefiting from its location on a corner opposite the park behind the Mahkama du Pacha and around the corner from famous Pâtisserie Bennis Habous, this pleasant cafe has a sunny front terrace and serves decent coffee and mint tea.
Le ChesterBAR
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0522 94 12 82; www.lechester.ma; Rue Abu Faraj el Asbahani, Racine Maarif; h6pm-1am)
Popular with well-heeled local 30-somethings, this bar just off Blvd d'Anfa offers burgers, Caesar salads and other international favourites. Beer is the tipple of choice and the DJ spins funk, pop and rhythm and blues on Tuesdays, Thursdays and Fridays from 7pm.
Le TricaBAR
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0522 22 07 06; 5 Rue el-Moutanabi, Quartier Gauthier; h6.30pm-1am)
This American-themed bar-lounge is set over two levels but still gets jam-packed on Friday and Saturday nights, when the DJ spins techno. It's also a popular place to watch big football matches on the big screen or grab a drink after work (happy hour 6.30pm to 9pm).<
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Social Club at Le CabestanCLUB, BAR
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0522 39 11 90; www.le-cabestan.com; 90 Blvd de la Corniche; hbar noon-2am, Social Club midnight-5am Sat)
Le Cabestan is party central on Saturday nights, when local and international DJs choreograph moves on the downstairs dance floor and the city's young and beautiful work hard to see and be seen. You'll need to dress to impress to get past the door staff. On other nights, the upstairs bar with its panoramic view sees lots of cocktail action.
Petit PoucetBAR
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; cnr Blvd Mohammed V & Rue Mohammed el-Qory)
A die-hard relic of the 1920s, this bar and cafe was where Saint-Exupéry, the French author and aviator, used to spend time between mail flights across the Sahara. Today, it's a seedy and less-than-inviting place for regulars to get sloshed.
Maison BCLUB
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0698 99 94 42; 5 Rue de la Mer Adriatique, Ain Diab; h7pm-4am)
As glam as Casa's club scene gets, this place near the Megarama cinema complex has a restaurant serving Mediterranean and Asian food and is particularly popular in the warmer months, when its terrace area is invariably packed on weekends. International DJs are regular fixtures, and there are also occasional live acts. Check the Facebook feed for event details.
Lonely Planet Morocco Page 31