Lonely Planet Morocco

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by Lonely Planet


  Armstrong LegendCLUB

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0522 79 77 58; 41 Blvd de la Corniche)

  This small place is one of the few clubs in town where you can dance to live music; bands concentrate on '80s and '90s rock covers.

  VIP ClubCLUB

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Rue des Dunes)

  On a hill next to the Ain Diab tram terminus, this long-established and expensive venue has a more inclusive vibe than many clubs in the city. There's a large dance floor.

  CASABLANCA FOR CHILDREN

  Casablanca is a huge, dirty and noisy city, so many families travelling with young children choose to retreat from the chaos of the city centre and hang out at the beach or in their hotel. The Four Seasons Hotel and Hotel Bellerive are both on the beach in Ain Diab and have a swimming pool, as does the the Hyatt Regency downtown. Alternatively, the beach clubs in Ain Diab have pools, playgrounds and attached terrace cafes specialising in ice cream.

  Continuing west from Ain Diab, the upmarket suburb of Anfa is home to the enormous Morocco Mall, which has a giant aquarium and an IMAX Theatre in addition to shops and a food court. It's a good choice for teens.

  3Entertainment

  Les Anciens Abattoirs de CasablancaPERFORMING ARTS

  ( GOOGLE MAP ; %0654 80 05 39; Rue Jaafar Barmaki, Quartier Hay Mohammadi; jGrand Ceinture)

  The old city abattoirs, an art deco complex built in 1922, was transformed into a cultural centre dubbed the Culture Factory in 2008. Located near Casa Voyageurs railway station, the centre hosts exhibitions and performances, plays, concerts and workshops. Check its Facebook page for program details.

  Complexe Culturel Sidi BelyoutTHEATRE

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0522 31 67 58; 28 Rue Léon L’Africain; jMarché Central)

  This 200-seat theatre hosts plays (usually in Arabic) and the occasional music recital or dance performance.

  Cinemas

  Most English-language films are dubbed in French, unless it specifically mentions ‘version originale’.

  MegaramaCINEMA

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0522 79 88 88; http://casablanca.megarama.ma/; Blvd de la Corniche, Ain Diab; tickets Dh45-65; jAin Diab)

  The plushest cinema in town, this huge complex in Ain Diab has four comfortable theatres that are usually packed.

  Imax TheatreCINEMA

  (%0801 00 12 30; www.moroccomall.ma; Morocco Mall, cnr Blvds de la Corniche & de l'Océan, Sidi Abderahman; tickets Dh65; h10am-9pm Sun-Thu, to 10pm Fri & Sat)

  Located at glitzy Morocco Mall, this cinema concentrates on Hollywood blockbusters.

  Cinéma RialtoCINEMA

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0522 26 26 32; Rue Mohammed el-Qory; jMarché Central)

  A classic single-screen cinema dating from the 1930s. Concerts are also staged here.

  Cinéma LynxCINEMA

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0522 22 02 29; 150 Ave Mers Sultan; jAvenue Hassan II)

  Spacious and comfortable, with a good sound system.

  7Shopping

  Although not an artisan centre, Casablanca has a good choice of traditional crafts from around Morocco. The best place to shop for these is in the Quartier Habous, south of the centre. There are also crafts shops of varying (usually low) quality along Blvd Houphouët Boigny on the edge of the old medina. These aim to attract the tourist dirham.

  Souq HabousMARKET

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Quartier Habous)

  Shopping isn't a highlight in Casablanca, but those wanting to snaffle a few souvenirs should head to the attractive but pricey souq in the streets east of the central roundabout in the Quartier Habous. Shops sell babouches (leather slippers), jellabas (robes), soaps, spices and ceramics. Be prepared to haggle.

  Morocco MallMALL

  (www.moroccomall.net; Blvd de la Corniche, Anfa; h10am-9pm Sun-Thu, to 10pm Fri & Sat)

  Morocco's fanciest shopping destination, this large mall in Ain Diab has stores galore, from recognised international brands to a dedicated 'souq' area with traditional Moroccan crafts. Take a shopping break to gawp at the two-storey-high aquarium, and fill up in the multinational food court. On-site parking costs Dh5 per hour.

  Anfa PlaceMALL

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0522 95 46 46; http://anfashopping.com; Blvd de la Corniche, Ain Diab; h10am-9pm Mon-Fri, to 10pm Sat & Sun; W)

  On the waterfront in Ain Diab, this new shopping mall sports a supermarket, a food court and a reasonable number of retail outlets. There's paid parking and free wi-fi.

  8Orientation

  The medina – the oldest part of town – is tiny and sits in the north of the city close to the port. To the south of the medina is Pl des Nations Unies, a large traffic junction that marks the heart of the city. The city’s main streets branch out from here: Ave des Forces Armées Royales (Ave des FAR), Ave Moulay Hassan I, Blvd Mohammed V and Blvd Houphouët Boigny.

  Ave Hassan II leads to Pl Mohammed V, easily recognised by its grand art deco administrative buildings. Quartiers Gauthier and Maarif, west and southwest of the Parc de la Ligue Arabe, are home to upmarket housing, restaurants, cafes and retail outlets.

  To the southeast is the Quartier Habous (also known as the Nouvelle Medina) and to the west is Ain Diab, the beachfront suburb whose Corniche is home to upmarket hotels, restaurants and nightclubs.

  CASA STREET NAMES

  Casablanca’s French street names are slowly being replaced with Moroccan names. Our maps and directions use the names that were on street signs at the time of research, but these may change. It is also worth noting that many locals, including taxi drivers, have yet to make the transition.

  8Information

  Emergency

  Fire/Ambulance 150

  Police 190

  Service d’Aide Médicale Urgente (Private ambulance service) 0522 25 25 25

  Medical Services

  Dar Salam ClinicHOSPITAL

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0522 85 14 14; www.cliniquedarsalam.ma; 728 Blvd Modibo Keita, Tantonville; jMekka)

  Near the Jardin Horticulture; 24-hour emergency department.

  Money

  There are banks – most with ATMs – on almost every street corner in the centre of Casablanca.

  Post

  Central Market Post Office ( GOOGLE MAP ; cnr Blvd Mohammed V & Rue Chaouia; h8am-4pm Mon-Fri, 9am-noon Sat)

  Main Post Office ( GOOGLE MAP ; cnr Blvd de Paris & Ave Hassan II; h8am-6pm Mon-Fri, to noon Sat)

  Medina Post Office ( GOOGLE MAP ; Pl Ahmed El Bidaoui; h8.30am-4.30pm Mon-Fri)

  Tourist Information

  Staff at your hotel will be the most reliable source of tourist information.

  8Getting There & Away

  Air

  Casablanca’s Mohammed V International Airport (%0522 43 58 58; www.onda.ma) is 30km southeast of the city on the Marrakesh road. Regular flights leave from here for most countries in Western Europe, as well as to West Africa, Algeria, Tunisia, Egypt, the Middle East and North America.

  Internally, the vast majority of Royal Air Maroc’s (RAM) flights go via Casablanca, so you can get to many destinations in Morocco directly from the city.

  Bus

  CTM bus station ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0522 54 10 10; www.ctm.ma; 23 Rue Léon L’Africain; jMarché Central) Close to Ave des FAR. There are daily CTM bus departures to destinations across the country. Destinations include seven daily services (Dh110, 7¼ hours) and one premium service (Dh270, 6¾ hours) to Agadir; four services to Essaouira (Dh140, 7¼ hours); and seven daily services (Dh85, 7¼ hours) and one premium service (Dh120, four hours) to Marrakesh.

  AGare Routière Ouled Ziane The main reason to trek out to this modern bus station 4km southeast of the centre is for services to destinations not covered by CTM – almost all non-CTM services depart from here. A taxi here will cost about Dh25; alternatively take bus 10 ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) from outside Cinema Rif on Ave des FAR.

  ASAT bus station Also on Rte Ouled Ziane, but more than 1km closer to town than Gare Routière Ouled Ziane. SAT runs national buses of a simil
ar standard to CTM, though to fewer destinations. Fares are slightly cheaper.

  Car

  Casablanca is well endowed with car-rental agencies, many with offices around Ave des FAR and Blvd Mohammed V, and at the airport.

  AAvis Airport (%0522 53 90 72; Mohammed V International Airport; h7am-11pm); City ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0522 31 24 24; 19 Ave des FAR; h8am-7pm Mon-Sat, to noon Sun; jPlace Nations Unies)

  ABudget Airport (%0522 53 91 57; Mohammed V International Airport; h7am-10.30pm); City ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0522 31 31 24; 5 Tours des Habous, Ave des FAR; h8.30am-noon & 2.30-7pm Mon-Sat, 9am-noon Sun; jPlace Nations Unies)

  President Car ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0661 21 03 94, 0522 26 07 90; www.presidentcar.ma; 27 Rue el-Ghali Ahmed; jPlace Nations Unies)

  Taxi

  Most grands taxis arrive at and depart from Gare Routière Ouled Ziane bus station.

  Vendôme Transport TouristiqueTAXI

  (%0522 27 76 19; [email protected])

  This reliable company has a fleet of cars and minivans with air-conditioning and functioning seatbelts (a rarity in Moroccan taxis). It charges Dh300 for transfers from Mohammed V International Airport to central Casablanca (one to three people), and can also organise transfers to destinations across the country. Other services include two-hour city tours of Casablanca by car (Dh450 for one or two people).

  Train

  Casablanca has five train stations, but only two are of interest to most travellers.

  ACasa Port train station is located a few hundred metres northeast of Pl des Nations Unies, in the port precinct. This is the station for trains to/from Rabat (1st/2nd class Dh69/37, 70 minutes, every 30 minutes) and Kenitra (1st/2nd class Dh95/51, 1¾ hrs, every 30 minutes to one hour). The train to/from Mohammed V International Airport also starts/ends here.

  Long-distance trains to all national destinations except Rabat and Kenitra arrive at and depart from Casa Voyageurs train station. A tramline connects the station with other parts of the city including downtown and Ain Diab.

  Major Trains From Casa Voyageurs

  To 1st-Class Fare (Dh) 2nd-Class Fare (Dh) Time (hr) Frequency (daily)

  Azemmour 46 33 1 7

  El Jadida 53 37 1½ 8

  Fez 174 116 3½-4½ 16

  Marrakesh 148 95 3¾ 9

  Meknès 143 95 3½ 19

  Nador 275 196 10½ 1 direct

  Oujda 322 216 10¾ 2 direct

  Tangier 195 132 5-6½ 8

  8Getting Around

  To/From The Airport

  ATrain Services run between the Mohammed V International Airport and Casablanca's Casa Port station at 4am and then on the hour from 6am to 10pm, with a final service at 11.45pm (1st/2nd class Dh64/43, 45 minutes). Trains stop at Oasis and Casa Voyageurs en route. You'll need to change at Casa Port for Rabat and Kenitra, and at Casa Voyagers for other major destinations. Trains leave from below the ground floor of Terminal 1. From Casa Port train station, the first train to the airport leaves at 3am and then every hour from 5am to 10pm.

  AGrand Taxi The set price for a grand taxi between the airport and the city centre is Dh300, though drivers work an unofficial cartel and fares can ending up being much more at night or at times of high demand – consider booking an airport pick-up with Vendôme Transport Touristique to be sure of getting the official price. Note that some taxi drivers receive commissions if they bring clients to particular hotels and can be unscrupulous in orchestrating this – don't believe any driver who tells you your hotel of choice is closed.

  Bus

  Bus tickets cost Dh4 and there are at designated stops along each bus route; see http://mdinabus.ma/docs/Lignesbus.pdf for details. Travellers are likely to find the new tramway or petits taxis much more useful.

  Car & Motorcycle

  Parking meters (Dh2 per hour, two hours maximum) operate from 8am to noon and 2pm to 7pm daily, except on Sunday and public holidays. If you don’t pay, you may be fined or have your wheels clamped. On unmetered streets a guard will often request a tip for watching your car; it is common practice to pay Dh5.

  Taxi

  Casa’s red petits taxis ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) will get you to your destination faster than the tram or bus and are hailed on the street.

  The fare for a short trip starts at Dh15, and drivers will often stop to collect other passengers along the way. Drivers rarely if ever use the meter, so be sure to negotiate the fare before getting into the taxi. Prices rise by 50% after 8pm.

  Have plenty of small coins to hand, and check your change.

  Tram

  The excellent Casa Tramway (www.casatramway.ma) makes getting across the city a simple and comfortable exercise.

  The most useful section of line for travellers is from Casa Voyageurs train station to Pl Mohammed V, via the Marché Central and Pl des Nations Unies. Trams also go to Ain Diab (about 35 minutes from central Casablanca).

  Trams runs every 15 minutes, with the first and last departures from the termini at 5.30am and 10.30pm.

  Tickets are Dh7 for a single trip, bought from easy-to-use machines on the platforms (multiple-journey tickets are also available).

  Rabat الرباط

  Pop 565,000

  Morocco’s political and administrative capital may be short on top-drawer tourist attractions, but it compensates with plenty of charm. The ville nouvelle's palm-lined boulevards are clean, well kept and relatively free of traffic – a blessed relief for those who have spent time in Casablanca. There's a clean central beach, an intact and evocative kasbah, and an attractive walled medina that is far less touristy than those in other large cities. All in all, the city is a good choice for a short sojourn.

  History

  The fertile plains inland from Rabat drew settlers to the area as far back as the 8th century BC. Both the Phoenicians and the Romans set up trading posts in the estuary of the Bou Regreg river in Sala, today’s Chellah. The Roman settlement, Sala Colonia, lasted long after the empire’s fall and eventually became the seat of an independent Berber kingdom. The Zenata Berbers built a ribat, a fortress-monastery from which the city takes its name, on the site of Rabat’s present kasbah. As the new town of Salé (created in the 10th century) began to prosper on the north bank of the river, the city of Chellah fell into decline.

  The arrival of the Almohads in the 12th century saw the ribat rebuilt as a kasbah, a strategic jumping-off point for campaigns in Spain, where the dynasty successfully brought Andalucia back under Muslim rule. Under Yacoub al-Mansour (the Victorious), Rabat enjoyed a brief heyday as an imperial capital, Ribat al-Fatah (Victory Fortress). Al-Mansour had extensive walls built, added the enormous Bab Oudaia to the kasbah and began work on the Hassan Mosque, intended to be the greatest mosque in all of the Islamic West, if not in all of the Islamic world.

  Al-Mansour’s death in 1199 brought an end to these grandiose schemes, leaving the great Hassan Mosque incomplete. The city soon lost all significance and it wasn’t until the 17th century that Rabat’s fortunes began to change.

  As Muslim refugees arrived from Christian Spain, so did a band of Christian renegades, Moorish pirates, freebooters and multinational adventurers. Rabat and Salé became safe havens for corsairs – merciless pirates whom English chroniclers called the Sallee Rovers. At one point they even created their own pirate state, the Republic of Bou Regreg. These corsairs roved as far as the coast of North America seeking Spanish gold, and to Cornwall in southern England to capture Christian slave labour. The first Alawite sultans attempted to curtail their looting sprees, but no sultan ever really exercised control over them. Corsairs continued attacking European shipping until well into the 19th century.

  Meanwhile, Sultan Mohammed ben Abdallah briefly made Rabat his capital at the end of the 18th century, but the city soon fell back into obscurity. In 1912 France strategically abandoned the hornet’s nest of political intrigue and unrest in the traditional capitals of Fez and Marrakesh and instead shifted power to coastal Rabat, where supply and defence were more easily achieved. Since
then, the city has remained the seat of government and official home of the king.

  Rabat

  1Sights

  1Andalusian GardensB2

  2Bab OudaiaA2

  3ChellahF6

  4Kasbah les OudaiasA2

  5Le Tour HassanF4

  6Mausoleum of Mohammed VF4

  7Mosque el-AtiqaA1

  8Plateforme du SémaphoreB1

  9Souq as-SebbatD3

  2Activities, Courses & Tours

  10Club Nautique de la Plage de RabatC2

  11Oudayas Surf Club RabatC2

  4Sleeping

  12Hôtel DarnaC3

  13L'AlcazarC3

  5Eating

  14L'EntrecôteB8

  6Drinking & Nightlife

  15Café MaureB2

  16OliveriB8

  8Information

  17Agdal ClinicB8

  18Algerian EmbassyF6

  19Belgian EmbassyF5

  20Dutch EmbassyE5

  21French EmbassyB6

  22Italian EmbassyF4

  23Tunisian EmbassyE5

  Transport

  24Boats to RabatD3

  25Boats to SaléD3

  26EuropcarE6

  1Sights

  Central Rabat

  Rabat MedinaAREA

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; jMedina Rabat, Bab Chellah)

  When the French arrived in the early 20th century, this walled medina by the sea was the full extent of the city. Built on an orderly grid in the 17th century, it is small enough to be easily explored in half a day, but large enough to make getting lost inevitable. The main market street is Rue Souika, with local shopping on its western stretch and shops geared largely to tourists in the covered Souq as-Sebbat to its east.

 

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