The Grande Mosquée de Rabat Medina ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; off Rue Bab Chellah; jBab Chellah), a 14th-century Merenid original that has been rebuilt in the intervening years, marks the start of the Souq as-Sebbat. If you continue past the Rue des Consuls (so called because diplomats lived here until 1912), you’ll come to the mellah (Jewish quarter) just before Bab el-Bahr and the river. Turning north along Rue des Consuls, which is home to many jewellery shops, will take you to one of the more interesting areas of the medina, with funduqs (courtyard complexes) and some grand former diplomatic residencies. At its northern end the street terminates in an open area that was the setting for slave auctions in the days of the Sallee Rovers. From here you can make your way up the hill to the Kasbah Les Oudaias.
Most eateries are on the major pedestrian thoroughfare of Ave Mohammed V, which runs between the Medina Rabat tram stop and Ave Laalou, the medina's northern boundary. Popular fast-food joints with street seating include Bidawai and Inza, and a parade of street vendors sell snacks such as babouche (small snails) served in a fragrant and spicy soup, freshly squeezed sugar-cane juice, bisara (a thick soup made from dried fava beans), syrup-drenched pastries, freshly baked bread and whatever fresh fruit is in season.
Museum of Modern & Contemporary ArtMUSEUM
(Musée Mohammed VI Art Moderne et Contemporain, MMVI; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0537 76 90 47; www.museemohammed6.ma; cnr Aves Moulay Hassan & Allal ben Abdallah, Ville Nouvelle; permanent collection adult/child 12-18yr/child under 12yr Dh20/10/free; h10am-6pm Wed-Mon; jMohammed V/Gare de Rabat)
Looking more like a shopping mall than an art gallery, this institution was conceived and funded by the present king and opened in 2014. Billed as the first national museum of modern and contemporary art in the country, it hosts international travelling exhibitions of big-name artists and has a permanent exhibition of Moroccan works dating from the 1950s to the present day. Many of the works are decorative in nature, featuring rich colours and intricate detail.
Look out for paintings by Radia Bent El Houssein (1912–94), Abbés Saladi (1950–92), André Elbaz (b 1934), Mehdi Qotbi (b 1951) and Aziza Alaoui (b 1966). Also of note are photographs by Laila Essaydi (b 1965).
Archaeology MuseumMUSEUM
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 23 Rue al-Brihi Parent; jMohammed V/Gare de Rabat)
Closed for a major renovation at the time of research, this archaeological museum has traditionally been home to a particularly wonderful collection of ceramics, statuary and other artefacts from the Roman settlements at Volubilis, Lixus and Chellah. There has been some talk in the recent past of these collection highlights being relocated to other institutions around the country, so the unveiling of the renovated building and rejuvenated exhibits is being anticipated by locals with both excitement and trepidation.
Moroccan Museum of MoneyMUSEUM
(Musée de Bank Al-Maghrib; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0537 21 64 72; www.bkam.ma; cnr Ave Allal ben Abdellah & Rue Al-Qahira, Ville Nouvelle; adult/student Dh20/free; h9am-5.30pm Tue-Fri, 9am-noon & 3-6pm Sat, 9am-1pm Sun; jPlace al-Joulane)
Numismatists will be in seventh heaven when visiting this well-curated and -presented museum. It offers an unexpectedly interesting tour of Moroccan history through currency, from the Roman period to today. There's also an exhibition of paintings from the Bank Al-Maghrib's collection of works by Moroccan artists and by foreign artists painting about Morocco. Entrance is free on Fridays.
St Pierre CathedralCHURCH
(Cathédrale Saint-Pierre de Rabat; GOOGLE MAP ; www.dioceserabat.org; Pl al-Joulane, Ville Nouvelle; jPlace al-Joulane)
Still operational, this cathedral dates from 1919, but its two art deco–style towers were added in the 1930s.
Royal PalacePALACE
(Dâr-al-Makhzen, Palais Royale; GOOGLE MAP ; Ave des Nations Unies; jNations Unies)
Located at the end of the mechouar (a large parade ground), this palace dates from 1864 and is the principal residence of the royal family. It is off-limits to visitors.
DON'T MISS
EXPLORING RABAT'S HISTORIC NEIGHBOURHOOD
Kasbah les OudaiasFORTRESS
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Rue Jamaa; jBab Chellah)
Rabat’s historic citadel Kasbah les Oudaias occupies the site of the original ribat (fortress-monastery) that gave the city its name.Predominately residential, its narrow streets are lined with whitewashed houses – most of which were built by Muslim refugees from Spain. There are scenic views over the river and ocean from the Plateforme du Sémaphore (Signal Platform; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Kasbah les Oudaias; jBab Chellah) at its highest point, and the attractive Andalusian Gardens ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; hsunrise-sunset; jBab Chellah) at its southern edge are a popular relaxation and meeting point for locals.
The most dramatic entry to the kasbah is through the enormous Almohad gate of Bab Oudaia ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ), built in 1195. Its location, facing the heart of the city and just outside the original palace, made it more ceremonial than defensive and the gateway is elaborately decorated with a series of carved arches. These days, it is only occasionally open so most visitors enter through a much smaller nearby gateway. Inside, the main street, Rue Jamaa, runs straight through the kasbah to the Plateforme du Sémaphore. About 200m ahead on the left is the oldest mosque ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Rue Jamaa, Kasbah les Oudaias) in Rabat, built in the 10th century and restored in the 18th with funds donated by an English pirate known as Ahmed el Inlisi, one of the feared Sallee Rovers.
East Of The Centre
ChellahHISTORIC SITE
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; cnr Ave Yacoub al-Mansour & Blvd Moussa ibn Nassair; adult/child under 12yr Dh10/3; h8.30am-5.30pm)
The Phoenicians were the first to settle on this sloping site above the Bou Regreg river, and the Romans took control in about AD 40, renaming the settlement Sala Colonia. Scattered stones from their city remain, but give little idea of its size or form. Abandoned in 1154, it lay deserted until the 14th century, when Merenid sultan Abou al-Hassan Ali built a necropolis on top of the Roman site and surrounded it with the defensive wall that stands today.
From the massive main gate (currently under restoration), a path heads down the hill to a viewing platform that overlooks the scant remains of the Roman city ('Site Antique'). Below this are the remains of the Islamic complex, with an elegant stone-and-tile minaret, now topped by a stork’s nest, the only remains of a once-impressive mosque. Behind the mosque is the ruined tomb of Abu al-Hasan and his wife, complete with stone carving and traces of zellij ornamentation. To its right (east) are the tombs of several saints and the Bassin aux Anguilles, a pool that attracts women who believe that feeding boiled eggs to its resident eels brings fertility and easy childbirth.
Next to the minaret, at a lower level, is a small medersa with the remains of pillars, students’ cells, a mihrab (prayer niche) and an ornamental pool. This was closed for restoration on our most recent visit. At the bottom of the site, on the slope beneath the tomb of Abu al-Hasan and his wife, is a shady walkway lined with flowers, palm trees and bamboo.
The Chellah is an evocative setting for the annual Jazz Au Chellah festival staged in September.
Le Tour HassanHISTORIC SITE
(Hassan Tower; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Ave Tour Hassan, Quartier Hassan; jPont Hassan II)
Towering above the Bou Regreg estuary and surrounded by well-tended gardens, this 44m tower is Rabat’s most prominent landmark. It was originally part of an ambitious Almohad project to build the world's second-largest mosque (after Samarra in Iraq), but its patron Sultan Yacoub al-Mansour died before the building was complete. The mosque was destroyed by an earthquake in 1755, and today only this tower and a forest of shattered pillars testifies to the grandiosity of al-Mansour’s plans.
Mausoleum of Mohammed VMAUSOLEUM
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Blvd Mohammed Lyazidi, Quartier Hassan; hsunrise-sunset; jPont Hassan II)F
The present king’s father (the late Hassan II) and grandfather were laid to rest in this marble mausoleum, which is decorated with pat
terned zellij and carved plaster. Its carved cedar ceiling is covered in gold leaf, and is quite magnificent. Visitors must be respectfully dressed, and can look down into the tomb from a gallery.
RABAT IN...
One Day
Start your day by exploring Rabat's medina, snacking on some traditional street food for lunch. Cross Blvd Tariq al-Marsa and enter the Kasbah les Oudaias through or near its spectacular main gate, Bab Oudaia. Climb to the top for magnificent views over the estuary and across to Salé, then stop for tea at atmospheric Café Maure. In the evening, join the local promenade up and down Ave Mohammed V and enjoy a Moroccan dinner at Le Petit Beur or Tajine Wa Tanjia.
Two Days
Take the tram to Salé and head into the medina to view the beautiful medersa of the Grand Mosque. Then wander down to the river and be rowed across to Rabat, where you can spend the afternoon sunning yourself on the plage (beach) or take a taxi to the Chellah for some archaeological investigation. In the evening, enjoy French cuisine at Cosmopolitan or Le Bistro du Pietri in the ville nouvelle, or at L’Entrecôte in upmarket Agdal.
2Activities
Oudayas Surf Club RabatWATER SPORTS
(OSCR; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0537 26 06 83; www.surfmaroc.info/oscr; Plage des Oudaias; 90min surfboard/bodyboard lessons Dh150)
One of Morocco's original surf clubs, OSCR offers lessons and board hire, and has a swish clubhouse-cafe facing the waves. King Mohammed VI was a founding member.
Club Nautique de la Plage de RabatWATER SPORTS
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0537 26 16 09; www.cnprabat.com; Plage des Oudaias)
Located on Oudaias beach beneath the kasbah, this club offers lessons and equipment hire for surfing, bodyboarding and sea kayaking at both the beach and the Bouregreg Marina.
CCourses
Rabat has a number of language schools offering year-long courses or short-term classes.
Center for Cross-Cultural LearningLANGUAGE
(CCCL; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0537 20 23 65; www.cccl.ma; Ave Hassan II, Bab el-Had; jBab El Had)
This private, US-affiliated school offers intensive short courses in Modern Standard Arabic and Darija.
zFestivals & Events
Rabat hosts a number of festivals and events each year.
Festival MawazineMUSIC
(www.festivalmawazine.ma; hMay)
This long-established festival draws the biggest names from the international pop music scene, as well as some major Arabic music stars. Christina Aguilera's headline act in 2016 drew 250,000 people to the OLM Souissi, southeast of Agdal – claimed to be the biggest music concert in Moroccan history. Other venues include the Chellah.
Jazz au ChellahMUSIC
(hSep)
Partly funded by the EU, this long-running festival features collaborations between European and Moroccan jazz musicians and is staged in the atmospheric surrounds of the Chellah. Check its Facebook feed for program details.
Central Rabat
1Sights
1Archaeology MuseumD5
2Grande Mosquée de Rabat MedinaC1
3Moroccan Museum of MoneyC3
4Museum of Modern & Contemporary ArtC5
5Rabat MedinaC1
2Activities, Courses & Tours
6Center for Cross-Cultural LearningA2
4Sleeping
7Hôtel B&B Rabat MédinaC3
8Hôtel BélèreB5
9Hôtel CentralC3
10Hôtel DorhmiB2
11Hôtel MajesticB2
12Hôtel RoyalC3
13Le Piétri Urban HotelD4
14Rabat Youth HostelA2
15Riad MeftahaA1
16Riad OudayaB1
5Eating
17BidawaiA1
18Boulangerie Pâtisserie MajesticB3
19CosmopolitanB4
20Fruit & Vegetable MarketA2
21InzaA1
22La ComédieB3
23La KoutoubiaD5
24La MammaC3
25La RiveD4
Le Bistro du PietriD4
26Le Petit BeurC4
27Restaurant de la LibérationB2
28Tajine Wa TanjiaB4
29Ty PotesD4
6Drinking & Nightlife
30AmnesiaB2
Cafetéria du 7ème ArtB3
3Entertainment
31Cinéma du 7ème ArtB3
32Cinéma RenaissanceB3
8Information
33German EmbassyC3
Transport
34AvisC4
35BudgetC4
36Buses to SaléD5
37Grands Taxis for Casablanca, Fez, Meknès & SaléC2
38HertzC4
39Stareo Airport BusC4
4Sleeping
The medina has a host of low-budget options (many of them dives) as well as a few atmospheric riads (town houses set around an internal garden). There are more choices in the ville nouvelle, with a growing number of comfortable business hotels on offer.
Ville Nouvelle
Hôtel CentralHOTEL€
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0537 70 73 56; [email protected]; 2 Rue Al-Basra, Ville Nouvelle; s/d Dh170/250, without bathroom Dh120/180; W; jMohammed V/Gare de Rabat)
Its glory days are long gone, but this hotel just off Ave Mohammed V, is clean and cheap. Rooms have rock-hard beds and wi-fi is only available in the reception area. Rooms without shower have a sink; en suite rooms have a shower, but toilets are outside and shared. Hot showers for those who opt for a room without bathroom cost Dh10.
Hôtel MajesticHOTEL€
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0537 72 29 97; www.hotelmajestic.ma; 121 Ave Hassan II, Ville Nouvelle; s/d Dh284/348; jMedina Rabat)
Sadly, this hotel, opposite the main entrance to the medina, is nowhere near as palatial as it sounds. Cramped rooms have wi-fi but that's all that can really be said in their praise. Despite the double glazing the rooms can be noisy, so it’s best to forgo the medina view for a room at the back.
oLe Piétri Urban HotelHOTEL€€
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0537 70 78 20; www.lepietri.com; 4 Rue Tobrouk, Ville Nouvelle; incl breakfast s Dh760-1020, d Dh860-1120, ste Dh1300; aiW; jMohammed V/Gare de Rabat)S
If only all midrange hotels in Morocco lived up to the standard set by this impressive business hotel! On offer are reasonable prices, a central location, helpful bilingual staff and 35 spacious and bright rooms with good beds, satellite TV, work desk and double-glazed windows. There's also an excellent restaurant, Le Bistro du Pietri, where live jazz is performed on weekends.
Hôtel B&B Rabat MédinaHOTEL€€
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0537 70 30 74; www.hotelbb.ma; 2 Rue Ghandi, Ville Nouvelle; s/d/tr incl breakfast Dh1100/1200/1240; paW; jPl al-Joulane)
Geared towards business people, this friendly modern hotel located diagonally opposite the Moulina Mosque and Jardin Nouzhat Hassan offers well-maintained and attractive rooms with double-glazed windows, good beds, reading lamps, work desk and satellite TV; some also have balconies overlooking the park. Breakfast is served in the hotel's bright and cheerful lobby cafe.
Hôtel BélèreHOTEL€€
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0537 70 38 97; www.belere-hotels.com; 33 Ave Moulay Youssef, Ville Nouvelle; s incl breakfast Dh950-1080, d Dh1080-1180, ste Dh1240-1400; naW; jMohammed V/Gare de Rabat)
This reliable but characterless hotel offers small, comfortable rooms with tasteful (albeit dated) decor. It has a bar and restaurant and is handy to the train station. Air-con units are in need of an overhaul and guests report that wi-fi can sometimes be patchy.
Hôtel RoyalHOTEL€€
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0537 72 11 71; 1 Rue Ammane, Ville Nouvelle; s/d Dh490/700; W; jMedina Rabat)
In a very central location, the Royal has dowdy and musty rooms that are begging for refurbishment. Those on the 4th floor have the best views over the park and city; all are noisy. Breakfast (Dh55) is served in the downstairs restaurant.
Medina
oRiad MeftahaB&B€
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0537 7
2 14 06; www.riad-meftaha.com; 15 Rue Iran, Quartier Marassa Océan; d/tr/ste incl breakfast Dh575/640/660; aW; jBab El Had, Medina Rabat)
Owner Franck and his sidekick Khadija are friendly and helpful hosts, making this quiet riad just outside Bab Laalou an excellent choice. The building is modern and not particularly attractive, but rooms are pleasantly decorated. The pick of the bunch is undoubtedly the terrace suite. Note that double rooms lack air-conditioning; all have satellite TV. Breakfast is generous.
Hôtel DorhmiHOTEL€
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0537 72 38 98; 313 Ave Mohammed V, Medina; s/d/tr Dh100/140/210; W; jMedina Rabat)
Immaculately kept, very friendly and dirt cheap, this family-run hotel (also known as the Doghmi) offers 10 ultrabasic rooms surrounding a central courtyard on the 1st floor above the Banque Populaire; some have no windows. Rooms have sinks (cold water) and a hot shower costs Dh10.
Hôtel DarnaHOTEL€
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0537 73 47 05; www.hoteldarna.ma; Ave Laalou, Medina; s/d/tr incl breakfast Dh350/550/650; W; jMedina Rabat)
Lonely Planet Morocco Page 33