Lonely Planet Morocco
Page 36
Hard-core birdwatchers may also want to explore Merja Khaloufa, an attractive lake about 8km east of Moulay Bousselham and part of the park, which offers good viewing of a variety of wintering wildfowl.
2Activities
Hassan DalilBIRDWATCHING
(%0668 43 41 10; per hr Dh100)
A recommended bird guide.
Khalil FachkhirBIRDWATCHING
(%0663 09 53 58; nidlettibou@yahoo.com; 90min guided tours per boat Dh250)
Recommended English-speaking guide who knows the lagoon and its birds extremely well.
4Sleeping
Most holidaymakers stay in private villas (many wealthy residents of Casablanca and Rabat have holiday villas here), but there are also two campgrounds and a few hotels and B&Bs. The prime location is on the Front de Mer (Beachfront).
Flamants-LoisirsCAMPGROUND€
(%0661 89 22 14; www.flamants-loisirs.fr; Rte secondaire BP 24; adult/child under 10 yr Dh20/10, campsites Dh60, vehicles Dh50-80; ps)
Moulay Bousselham is a camping-friendly destination, and this well-run and shady campsite is an ever-popular choice. The huge on-site pool costs Dh45/35 per adult/child per day, and there's also a cafe, a small shop and bungalows on-site (Dh450 to Dh650). You'll find it on the secondary (lower) road as you enter town, overlooking (but not on) the lagoon.
Villa NoraB&B€€
(%0537 43 20 71; jeanoli@yahoo.uk; Front de Mer; s/d incl breakfast Dh300/400, with sea view Dh400/500; W)
Its grandiose claim to be a 'residential cultural centre' may have applied long ago, but time hasn't been all that kind to this B&B. Its location overlooking the beach is wonderful, but furnishings (including beds) are worn and creature comforts such as hot water can't be taken for granted. Nevertheless, it's clean and the terrace is a perfect relaxation spot.
oVilla BeaBOUTIQUE HOTEL€€€
(%0537 43 20 87; www.vilabea.com; 41 Front de Mer; s incl breakfast Dh1200-1600, d Dh1300-1800; hclosed Jan; paWs)
Once ensconced in this super-stylish beachside retreat, many guests refuse to step outside for the remainder of their stay. This is perfectly understandable – the large and luxurious rooms, spacious lounge and dining area and spectacular pool terrace are the stuff of which dreams are made. Three of the seven rooms have sea views (one has a private terrace); all have excellent beds.
Multilingual owner Béatrice and her staff are efficient and friendly, the villa has private access to the beach and three-course set dinners (Dh250) are available on request.
5Eating & Drinking
The pickings are slim when it comes to eating options, so most visitors self-cater. Note that alcohol isn't officially available in any of the town's restaurants, shops or hotels.
Restaurant MilanoMOROCCAN€
(pastas Dh30-60, sandwiches Dh30-40, tajines Dh40-60; h11am-4pm & 6-10pm)
Located on the main street close to the mosque, this bustling place is popular with tourists but locals eat elsewhere. The menu holds few surprises, with sandwiches, salads, pastas, pizzas and tajines on offer. No alcohol.
Cafe Restaurant IzaguirraSEAFOOD€€
(%0537 43 24 45; Rue du Port; tajines Dh55-60, fish mains Dh50-200; h8am-10pm)
Next to the fishing boats moored in the lagoon, this clean and cheerful restaurant specialises in the daily catch and is universally acknowledged to be the best eatery in town. Head up the stairs to find the blue-and-white terrace, where friendly waiters are rushed off their feet in the summer months. No alcohol.
Cafe Restaurant NassimCAFE
(h8am-10pm)
A good choice for coffee or a quick snack (paninis Dh25 to Dh30; omelettes Dh10 to Dh30), this bustling cafe near the grand taxi rank on the main street has an outdoor terrace that is a popular local meeting place.
8Getting There & Away
Moulay Bousselham is about 40km due south of Larache. To travel between the two towns by public transport you’ll need to detour to the little town of Souk el-Arba (grand taxi from Larache Dh40, 45 minutes), from where there are frequent grands taxis (Dh18, 45 minutes) to Moulay Bousselham. Grands taxis between Moulay Bousselham and Kenitra charge Dh50; the trip takes 1½ hours.
A private grand taxi from Larache to Moulay Bousselham will cost Dh250; it's Dh350 to the Kenitra Medina train station, from where you can make your way to Rabat, Casablanca, Meknès or Fez.
Larache العرائش
Pop 124,800
Like the other towns on this stretch of coast, Larache is laid-back for most of the year but bursts into life in summer, when Moroccan tourists flock to nearby Ras R'mel beach. Occupied by the Spanish for most of the 17th century, the town developed a local industry building ships for the corsairs operating further south. It eventually became the main port of the Spanish protectorate in 1911. Though certainly as picturesque as its northern neighbour, Asilah, Larache gets far fewer visitors and is relatively hassle-free. Come here for local flavour rather than headline sights, and don't expect a lot in terms of accommodation and eating options.
Larache
1Sights
1Bab al-KhemisA1
2Casbah de la CigogneB2
3Galerie LafnarB1
4Iglesia de Nuestra Senõra del PilarB2
5Larache MedinaB1
6Music ConservatoryB2
7Place de la LibérationA2
8Saadian FortressA1
4Sleeping
9Hôtel EspañaA2
10Hotel Hay EssalamA2
11Hôtel SomaríanA2
12La Maison HauteB1
13Pension AmalA2
5Eating
14Casa ChéA2
15Restaurant CommercialB2
16Restaurant Puerta Del SolA2
6Drinking & Nightlife
17Café Balcón AtlanticoA1
1Sights
The ville nouvelle has some grand Hispano-Moorish architecture dating from the colonial era, particularly around lovely Pl de la Libération (the former Plaza de España), and the heavily populated blue-and-white medina is well worth a wander. On weekends and in the early evening, the pedestrianised balcón (elevated platform) overlooking the Atlantic is a popular spot for a promenade. North of the river Loukos, on the outer edge of town, sit the overgrown ruins of ancient Lixus, the legendary site of the Garden of the Hesperides.
Place de la LibérationSQUARE
( MAP GOOGLE MAP )
Built by the Spanish, who named it Plaza de España, this circular plaza near Larache's old medina is the town's focal point and the place where most locals congregate to meet up with friends and relax over a coffee or tea. Surrounded by extremely handsome Hispano-Moorish buildings, most of which now house terrace cafes, it's decorated with palm trees and a fountain and is a perfect people-watching perch.
The medina can be entered through tiled Bab al-Khemis ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) on its eastern side and the town's much-loved pedestrianised balcón (elevated platform) is one block north.
Larache MedinaAREA
( MAP GOOGLE MAP )
Entered through Bab al-Khemis, a delightful Hispano-Moorish structure, Larache's blue-and-white medina has changed little over the past century. Mostly residential, it is arranged around the large colonnaded Zoco de la Alcaiceria, a qissaria (covered market) where fresh produce and household goods are sold. North of the qissaria is a labyrinthine arrangement of narrow lanes leading to the ruined, rubbish-filled Saadian Fortress. South of the qissaria, up the hill, is the handsome Music Conservatory and a scenic lookout.
Galerie LafnarGALLERY
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0654 04 48 10; 58 Assadr Alaadam, Medina; h10am-1pm & 5-9pm)
This art gallery stages occasional exhibitions of work by local and international artists. The building itself is an old wheat fondouq (rooming house) just off the Zoco de la Alcaiceria in the heart of the medina.
Saadian FortressRUINS
(Qebibat; MAP GOOGLE MAP )
Though this 16th-century European-style fortress is included on the Liste des Monuments et
Sites Historiques Nationale du Maroc, it is disintegrating and filled with rubbish. Built on the ruins of an earlier fortress, it is perched on the edge of the medina. Nearby ramshackle tea stands overlook the port and estuary.
Music ConservatoryNOTABLE BUILDING
(Conservatoire de Musique de Larache; MAP GOOGLE MAP )
A wonderful example of Hispano-Moorish architecture, the town's crenellated music conservatory features ornately decorated balconies and a minaret-style clock tower. It is closed to the public.
Casbah de la CigogneLANDMARK
(Fortress of the Storks; MAP GOOGLE MAP )
Built by the Spaniards under Philip III, this now-crumbling 17th-century fortification on the path to the scenic lookout is closed to visitors.
LookoutVIEWPOINT
( GOOGLE MAP ; Plaza Dar El Majzen)
Offering views over the port and estuary, this lookout is a popular local meeting and relaxation spot.
Iglesia de Nuestra Senõra del PilarCHURCH
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Blvd Mohammed V)
This handsome 1920s church opposite the Hotel de Ville (Town Hall) was built by the Spanish and still hosts mass every Sunday morning.
Jean Genet’s GraveLANDMARK
( GOOGLE MAP )
To the west of town, the old Spanish cemetery is the final resting place of French writer Jean Genet (1910–86). If the gate is locked, ring the bell for the caretaker. A small tip is expected for showing you to the grave.
Ras R'mel BeachBEACH
( GOOGLE MAP )
Larache has a small rubbish-strewn strip of sand below the town, but the best beach is across the Loukos Estuary, an 11km drive from the town centre. In summer, small boats ferry passengers across the estuary, from where the beach is a short walk across the dunes. You'll need to bargain with the boatman to get the best price and should pay around Dh10. At other times a petit taxi from the town centre will cost around Dh25.
Near the beach is a huge holiday resort, Port Lixus, with a golf course, several resort hotels, villas and a luxury marina.
4Sleeping
Accommodation choices in Larache are predominantly in the budget category. Most hotels are clustered along the streets just south of Pl de la Libération.
Hotel Hay EssalamHOTEL€
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0539 91 68 22; 9 Ave Hassan II; s/d/tw with bathroom Dh116/133/166, without bathroom Dh90/116/140; aW)
The best of Larache's budget accommodation options, this simple place run by a friendly lady offers a variety of room types; some have basic bathrooms and air-con, others are little more than unadorned cubes. Those at the front are light but noisy – light sleepers should opt for one at the rear. No English.
Hôtel EspañaHOTEL€
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0539 91 31 95; www.hotelespanalarache.com; 6 Ave Hassan II; s/d/tw Dh260/300/320; paiW)
Housed in a handsome Hispano-Moorish building, this old-fashioned hotel is a safe and friendly accommodation choice. Rooms are clean, comfortable and well maintained, with satellite TV, a hard bed and double-glazed windows. The best are at the front, with balconies overlooking the action on Pl de la Libération.
Pension AmalHOTEL€
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0539 91 27 88; 10 Rue Abdallah ben Yassine; s/d without bathroom Dh50/100)
Dirt cheap, this little pension off pedestrianised Ave Mohammed Ben Abdallah offers clean but spartan tiled rooms with shared facilities (hot showers are Dh12).
La Maison HautePENSION€€
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0665 34 48 88; http://lamaisonhaute.free.fr; 6 Derb ben Thami, Medina; s/apt Dh350/600, d Dh450-500, tr Dh550-600, all incl breakfast)
With bags of character but very little in the way of creature comforts, this Hispano-Moorish house overlooking Zoco de la Alcaiceria offers six rooms, an apartment sleeping four and a roof terrace with panoramic views over the medina and estuary. Rooms aren't as clean as one would like, and have extremely uncomfortable beds. Owner Hassan speaks English and French.
Hôtel SomaríanHOTEL€€
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0539 91 01 16; hotelsomarian@live.fr; 68 Ave Mohammed Zerktouni; s/d/tr Dh400/500/600; iW)
Housed in a spectacularly ugly modern hotel across the street from the covered central market, the Somarían offers gaudily decorated yet comfortable rooms, all of which have spotless bathrooms. It serves a predominantly business clientele.
5Eating & Drinking
Eating out in Larache is cheap and cheerful with plenty of little places around Pl de la Libération. The Spanish influence lingers on in the paella and tortillas served in most restaurants.
Cafes with outdoor terraces surround Pl de la Libération and face the balcón. The town is almost entirely alcohol-free.
Casa ChéSEAFOOD€
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0677 83 02 00; 87 Ave Mohammed Zerktouni; mains Dh50; hnoon-3pm & 7-10pm Mon-Sat)
This simple place near the covered central market is bedecked with portraits of Che Guevara and serves Mediterranean, Moroccan and Basque dishes, with an emphasis on seafood.
Restaurant CommercialMOROCCAN€
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Pl de la Libération; mains Dh40; h11am-10pm)
This basic and not particularly clean place on the main square does a roaring trade in simple soup, brochettes and fried fish. It’s ultra cheap and its tables under the colonnade are great for people-watching.
Restaurant Puerta Del SolMOROCCAN€
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0539 91 36 41; 5 Rue Ahmed Chaouki; sandwiches Dh20, mains Dh25-40; hnoon-10pm Mon-Sat)
Moroccan staples, including tajines and brochettes, join Spanish favourites such as paella and tortilla at this no-nonsense eatery close to Pl de la Libération.
Café Balcón AtlanticoCAFE
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; cnr Rues de Casablanca & Tarik Ibnou Ziad; h8am-11pm)
Overlooking the balcón, and with Atlantic views, this bright, bustling cafe has plenty of outdoor seating and good coffee. It's the best spot in town for a relaxed breakfast or tea/coffee break.
8Information
Banks with ATMs are found at the northern end of Blvd Mohammed V.
Post Office ( GOOGLE MAP ; Blvd Mohammed V; h8am-4.15pm Mon-Fri, to 11.45am Sat)
8Getting There & Away
The bus station (Gare Routière, Estación de Autobús; GOOGLE MAP ; Rue Ibnou Khaldoun) is an easy walk south of Pl de la Libération, off Ave Mohammed ben Abdallah. Most major destinations are covered by CTM, including the following:
AAgadir Dh310, 12½ hours, one daily
ACasablanca Dh120, four hours, five daily
AFez Dh90, 4¼ hours, four daily
AMarrakesh Dh200, 8¾ hours, one daily
ATangier Dh35, 1½ hours, four daily
Grands taxis ( GOOGLE MAP ; Rue Ibnou Khaldoun) run from outside the bus station to Souk el-Arba (Dh40), Tangier (Dh35) and Kenitra (Dh50). Those heading to Asilah (Dh20) usually leave from outside the municipal produce market on Ave Malek Ben Marhal.
Petit taxis charge Dh20 to Lixus and Dh25 to Ras R'mel Beach.
Lixus الاوكوس
Set on a hill overlooking the Loukos Estuary, the Carthaginian and Roman ruins of Lixus are evocative reminders that settlements on this coast are among the oldest in the country.
Few visitors make it here outside the summer months, and in winter your only companions will be the wind and the odd goat quietly grazing. A new visitor centre has been under construction near the site entrance for many years now, and locals have no confidence that it will open in the immediate future. In the meantime, there's no entrance fee. Tips to the site guardian are appreciated.
There is no food available on-site, so pack a picnic before heading off from Larache.
History
Megalithic stones found in the vicinity of Lixus suggest that the site was originally inhabited by a sun-worshipping people with knowledge of astronomy and mathematics. However, little more is known about the area’s prehistory until the Phoenicians set up the colony Liks here in about 1000 BC. According to P
liny the Elder, it was here that Hercules picked the golden apples of the Garden of the Hesperides, thus completing the penultimate of his 12 labours. The golden apples may well have been Moroccan tangerines.
In the 6th century BC the Phoenician Atlantic colonies fell to the Carthaginians. Lixus remained a trading post, principally in gold, ivory and slaves and, by AD 42, had entered the Roman Empire. Its primary exports soon changed to salt, olives, wine and garum (an aromatic fish paste) and its merchants also grew rich from the export of wild animals for use in the empire’s amphitheatres.
The colony at Lixus rapidly declined as the Romans withdrew from North Africa, and was abandoned completely in the 5th century, after the collapse of the Roman Empire. Later, the site became known to Muslims as Tuchummus.
1Sights
Lixus RuinsARCHAEOLOGICAL SITE
( GOOGLE MAP ; Larache-Tangier Hwy/N1)F
The main gate to Lixus is just off the highway, off the road running in front of the estuary. Only about a quarter of the ancient city has been excavated, but the visible ruins, though badly damaged and overgrown, hint at how grand and important this city once was, and are worth a visit.