Medina
oMelting Pot HostelHOSTEL€
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0539 33 15 08; www.meltingpothostels.com/tanger; 3 Rue Tsouli; dm Dh130, d Dh330; W)
This bright and cheerful hostel is a perfect backpacker's hub, with a big, clean kitchen and plenty of chill-out space including a roof terrace with terrific views. Shared facilities are clean and the staff very friendly and helpful. It's a short walk from Petit Socco or, if you're walking up from the port, the Hotel Continental.
Hotel MamoraHOTEL€
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0539 93 41 05; 19 Ave Mokhtar Ahardan; s/d with shower Dh120/180, with bathroom Dh270/430)
Readers enjoy this hotel in a good location near the Petit Socco, with its variety of rooms at different rates. There's a slight institutional air, like an old school, but it's clean, well run, and strong value for money. The rooms overlooking the green-tiled roof of the Grande Mosquée are the most picturesque, if you don’t mind the muezzin’s call.
oDar NourGUESTHOUSE€€
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0662 11 27 24; www.darnour.com; 20 Rue Gourna, Kasbah; d/ste incl breakfast from Dh720/1300; W)
This peppermint-walled guesthouse has no central courtyard, rooms here instead branch off two winding staircases, creating a maze of rooms and salons, each more romantic than the last. Rooms are stylishly decorated with objets d’art and packed with books, creating a relaxed and homely atmosphere, while bathrooms are tadelakt (polished plaster). Some rooms have a private terrace.
Once you get to the top of the house, there is an impressive view over the roofs of the medina. Breakfasts are huge and are usually served on the terrace.
La TangerinaGUESTHOUSE€€
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0539 94 77 31 19; www.latangerina.com; Rue Sultan, Kasbah; d incl breakfast Dh750-1650; W)
This is a perfectly renovated riad at the very top of the kasbah, with 10 rooms of different personalities. Bathed in light and lined with rope banisters, it feels like an elegant, Berber-carpeted steamship cresting the medina. The roof terrace overlooks the ancient crenellated walls of the kasbah, while below, neighbourhood washing hangs from abandoned coastal cannons, proclaiming the passage of history.
Hotel ContinentalHOTEL€€
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0539 93 10 24; [email protected]; 36 Rue Dar el-Baroud; s/d incl breakfast Dh795/850; paW)
Nothing appears to have been touched here for decades, making this piece of faded grandeur a fascinating bit of International Zone archaeology; parts of The Sheltering Sky were filmed here. The rooms are on the spartan side, though many have fine views overlooking the port and sea (as does the huge terrace). The hotel has a large craft shop.
Nord Pinus TangerGUESTHOUSE€€€
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0661 22 81 40; www.nord-pinus-tanger.com; Rue Riad Sultan, Kasbah; d €190, junior/deluxe ste €230/290, all incl breakfast €190/230/290; aW)
This is a very grand Kasbah house with somewhat Gothic stone columns and staircase. Rooms are a delight with eclectic decor and every comfort. Excellent meals are served on request (half-pensión €30) in the opulent dining room or on the roof terrace. The bar on the terrace overlooking the sea is a favourite for an aperitif.
Ville Nouvelle
Many of the unrated hotels and pensiónes along Rue Salah Eddine el-Ayoubi and Ave d’Espagne are little better than the cheapies in the medina. This Salah/Espagne area can be dodgy at night, and questionable for women travelling alone. Nicer hotels line Ave Mohammed VI, offering views over the Bay of Tangier and close proximity to the attractions of the city, with a couple of options right in the centre.
Hotel El-MuniriaHOTEL€
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0539 93 53 37; www.hotelelmuniria.com; 1 Rue Magellan; s/d Dh200/250, on terrace Dh250/300; W)
This is your best low-end option in the ville nouvelle, and is chock-full of Beat Generation history (William Burroughs famously lived here while writing The Naked Lunch). French windows and bright, flowery fabrics set it apart, revealing the careful touch of a hands-on family operation.
Room 4, a quiet corner double with lots of light, is a great hideaway, as is Room 8 on the terrace, a quiet double with a harbour view. Noise from Le Tangerine bar below can be an issue for some rooms.
Pension HollandaHOTEL€
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0539 93 78 38; 139 Rue de Hollande; s/d Dh250/350, loft r without bathroom per person Dh150)
Tucked away in a quiet street a short walk from Pl de France, this former hospital has sparkling whitewashed rooms and high ceilings, with tiny bathrooms. All rooms have a TV and a sink; doubles come with a shower. Hot water is available on demand. For a budget steal, don’t miss the loft rooms up the hidden spiral staircase.
Hotel de ParisHOTEL€
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0539 93 18 77; www.hoteldeparis-tanger.com; 42 Blvd Pasteur; s/d with bathroom & breakfast Dh450/580)
This reliable choice in the heart of the ville nouvelle has a classy, old-world aura in its lobby. There is a variety of room types and prices depending on bathroom arrangements and balconies. All are clean and (for the most part) modern, but those overlooking Blvd Pasteur can get noisy. The multilingual front-desk staff are very helpful.
Hotel El DjeninaHOTEL€
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0539 92 22 44; [email protected]; 8 Rue al-Antaki; s/d incl breakfast Dh375/490; aW)
This somewhat characterless hotel is close to the port; rooms are bright and modern. The cosy bar and restaurant with patio views to the sea are pleasant. Unexciting but reliable.
Hotel RembrandtHOTEL€€
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0539 33 33 14; www.hotelrembrandt.ma; Ave Mohammed V; s/d Dh700/900; aWs)
Rooms here are pretty standard and are in marked contrast to the elegant downstairs lobby, with its classic elevator and curving staircase echoing its 1950s roots. However, the glassed-in restaurant is good, the green garden cafe is a tranquil spot to relax, and there's a reasonable bar for an evening drink. Rooms with a sea view cost around Dh100 extra.
oVilla JosephineHERITAGE HOTEL€€€
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0539 33 45 35; www.villajosephine-tanger.com; r Dh3600-7600; pWs)
A mansion or a palace? It's hard to decide at this restored 1920s residence, once a summer retreat for Moroccan royalty and partying European diplomats. Everything about the 10 rooms here is sumptuous, from the period decor to the up-to-the-minute amenities and service. All have balconies or terraces looking out to sea.
Relax in the delightful gardens or by the pool, or have pre-dinner drinks in the wood-panelled library. For a taste of the old Tangier of the monied classes, this is a real treat.
oEl-MinzahHOTEL€€€
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0539 33 34 44; www.elminzahleroyal.com; 85 Rue de la Liberté; d/ste from Dh2000/3500; aWs)
The classiest five-star hotel in Tangier proper, and a local landmark, this beautifully maintained 1930s period piece offers three excellent restaurants, three equally good bars, a fitness centre, a spa, pleasant gardens and even a babysitting service. It’s shaped like an enormous hollow square, with a tremendous Spanish-Moorish courtyard, and has history oozing from its walls.
Portside rooms offer beautiful views, but can be noisy when the wind is blowing.
oGrand Hôtel Villa de FranceHISTORIC HOTEL€€€
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Rue de la Liberté; s/d from Dh2000/2400, ste from Dh3000)
Recently and gloriously refurbished, few hotel addresses are as venerable as Grand Hôtel Villa de France. French painter Eugène Delacroix stayed here in 1832, then his compatriot, Henri Matisse, followed just before WWI – you can enjoy the still-spectacular views he painted from his old room (35), decorated as it was in his day.
The period attention to detail in the salons and dining rooms is superb, and the service is attentive. There's a piano bar and suites around a pool at the rear, next to an old villa once occupied by the Napoleons.
5Eating
In the medina there’s a host of cheap eating possibilities around the Petit Socco (So
uq Dakhel) and the adjacent Ave Mokhtar Ahardan, with rotisserie chicken, sandwiches and brochettes all on offer. In the ville nouvelle, try the streets immediately south of Pl de France, which are flush with fast-food outlets, sandwich bars and fish counters.
For self-catering options, the covered markets near the Grand Socco are the best places for fresh produce, particularly on Thursday and Sunday, when Riffian women descend on the city wearing traditional straw hats with pompoms and candy-striped skirts to sell their agricultural products. Casa Pepé ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %5399 93 70 39; 39 Rue ibn Rochd; h9am-10.30pm) is one of several general stores in the area.
Medina
El Morocco CaféMOROCCAN€€
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; breakfasts around Dh20, mains Dh65-85; h8am-9pm)
Tucked into a tiny plaza in the kasbah, and shaded by trees and vines, El Morocco is an absolutely delightful place to while away an hour or so over a late breakfast, a juice or coffee or a light lunch. It's the low-key street version of its posher sibling, El Morocco Club.
Le NababMOROCCAN€€
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0661 44 22 20; 2 Rue al Kadiria; mains Dh90, set menu Dh175; hlunch & dinner Mon-Sat)
This is a beautifully restored old fondouq (rooming house), all grey tadelakt, comfortable seating and swaths of airy fabrics. Dine around the huge fireplace or in a private alcove. The menu is Moroccan, the welcome friendly and it has an alcohol licence.
Café à l'AnglaiseMOROCCAN€€
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 37 Rue de la Kasbah; mains Dh90-150; h10am-10pm)
Decorated by way of an Anglo-Moroccan flea market, this blue-fronted shabby-chic cafe serves up some good fish and a variety of tajines and Moroccan salads. The downstairs is cosy but there's an upstairs terrace for when things get crowded. Tasty food, but the automatic 10% service charge on the bill is a little cheeky.
oArt et GourmetMEDITERRANEAN€€€
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0539 37 12 51; 9 Pl du 9 Avril 1947; lunch menu Dh160, mains Dh180; hnoon-midnight; W)
Overlooking the Grand Socco, the terrace of this restaurant has the best views in town. Inside, it's more formal. Menus are presented on the back of small paintings, and the menu du jour on a blackboard. There are lots of fish, organic vegetables and meat produced on the Boufalah farm in nearby Assilah, and fusion Moroccan dishes.
All is beautifully presented on a slate plate, and there's a good wine list. The service is excellent.
oPopulaire Saveur de PoissonSEAFOOD€€€
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0539 33 63 26; 2 Escalier Waller; fixed-price menu Dh200; h1–5pm & 8–11pm, closed Fri)
This charming seafood restaurant offers an excellent, filling set menu in rustic surroundings. The owner serves a four-course meal of fish soup followed by inventive plates of fresh catch, olives and various fresh breads, all of it washed down with a homemade juice cocktail made from a dozen fruits. Dessert is honey and almonds. Not just a meal, a whole experience.
El Morocco ClubMEDITERRANEAN, TAPAS€€€
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; [email protected]; 1 Rue Kashla, Kasbah; mains Dh140-195, tapas Dh40-90; hnoon-10pm; pW)
A very smart renovation of this elegant building has resulted in a stylish restaurant upstairs and a more relaxed piano bar downstairs. It's all dramatic colours and the cosy bar has some fascinating photographs on the walls. During the day, there's a cafe outside under the trees.
Ville Nouvelle
La GiraldaCAFE€
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0539 37 04 07; 1st fl, 5 Blvd Pasteur; breakfast from Dh25; h7am-midnight; a)
The young and beautiful adore this grand cafe overlooking the Terrasse des Paresseux, with its sumptuous, Egyptian-influenced decor and intricately carved ceiling. Huge windows give great sea views. A light menu of crêpes and paninis make it a good lunch stop, too.
Champs ÉlyséesCAFE€
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 6 Ave Mohammed V; breakfast from Dh25; h6am-10pm)
This enormous cafe-in-the-round is high on opulence, with a huge central chandelier and red velour upholstery. Great sticky pastries.
Patisserie La EspañolaPASTRIES€
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 97 Rue de la Liberté; pastries from Dh8; h7am-10.30pm winter, 7am-12.30am summer)
A heavily mirrored tearoom, this cafe tempts people off the street with its pretty arrangements of cakes and pastries. Everyone seems to come here – locals and foreigners, businessmen and courting couples.
Fast Food BrahimFAST FOOD€
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 16 Ave Mexique; sandwiches from Dh25; h11am-midnight)
Great made-to-order sandwiches. You can’t go wrong here with half a baguette filled with kefta (spicy lamb meatballs) and salad to eat on the hoof. One of several fast-food places in this area.
Mix MaxFAST FOOD€
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 6 Ave Prince Héritier; meals Dh25-50; hnoon-2am)
A trendy and popular fast-food joint, Mix Max serves up great paninis, shwarma (sliced meat, cooked on a spit, and stuffed in a flatbread) and other fast fare for meals on the hoof.
oAna e PaoloITALIAN€€
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0539 94 46 17; 77 Rue Prince Héretier; mains from Dh85; hnoon–3pm & 7.30–11pm, closed Sun)
This is a genuine, family-run Italian bistro with Venetian owners; it feels like you've been invited for Sunday dinner. Expect a highly international crowd, lots of cross-table conversations about the events of the day, and wholesome food, including excellent charcuterie and pizzas, homemade pastas, meat and fish.
Eric KayserPATISSERIE, FRENCH€€
( GOOGLE MAP ; cnr Rue des Amoureux & Rue Granada; mains from Dh140, dish of the day Dh120; h7am-10.30pm)
This renowned French boulanger has a bakery and restaurant that's trendy and stylish; it’s very popular for its good French cuisine, though a little out of the way.
Number OneMOROCCAN, FRENCH€€
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0539 94 16 74; 1 Ave Mohammed V; mains from Dh85; hnoon-11pm)
The rose walls and white windows in this renovated apartment provide the feel of a holiday cottage, while the red lighting, background jazz and exotic mementoes lend it an intimate, sultry allure. The Moroccan-French cuisine gets high marks from locals, who have been coming here for almost 50 years. Alcohol is served.
OtoriSUSHI€€
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.otorisushi.com; 41 Ave de la Résistance; 4 sushi pieces Dh25-50, mains Dh70-120; hnoon-11pm)
Have a chilled beer or glass of wine in this dark-panelled sushi restaurant just off Ave Mohammed V. Sushi is carefully assembled, and tempura crisp fried. A pleasant escape from Tangerine excitements.
Le PagodeCHINESE€€
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0539 93 80 86; Rue al-Boussiri; mains from Dh80; hnoon-3pm & 7-11pm Tue-Sun)
If you’re tired of tajines and pasta, this realistic bit of Asia is a decent answer. An intimate and classy dining area, with lacquered furniture, white tablecloths and low lighting, is paired with a classic Chinese menu.
La FabriqueFRENCH€€€
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0539 37 40 57; Residence Salima, 7 Rue d’Angleterre; meals Dh250-350; h7.30pm-11.30pm Mon-Sat)
The minimalist decor and excellent French cuisine make this restaurant just the place to be seen. The tournedos (fillet steaks) is legendary, though there's not much choice for vegetarians. Service is attentive and there's a good winelist. Reserve ahead.
Restaurant el-KorsanMOROCCAN€€€
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0539 93 58 85; El-Minzah Hotel, 85 Rue de la Liberté; mains around Dh160; hlunch & dinner)
One of Tangier’s top restaurants, this chic and classy place inside El-Minzah Hotel offers a smaller, more intimate version of the palace restaurant theme but without the bus tours. Well-presented Moroccan classics are served to soft live music, and often traditional dancing. Reservations are necessary, including one day's prior notice for lunch. Dress well.
DON'T MISS
SEEKING OUT TANGIER'S BEAT HERITAGE
The Beat Generation was a post-WWII American count
erculture movement that combined visceral engagement in worldly experiences with a quest for deeper understanding. Tangier was a key location in its development. Writer Jack Kerouac and poet Allen Ginsberg both passed through here, visiting the father of the movement, William Burroughs, who had moved here in 1953. The Interzone of Burroughs' most famous work, Naked Lunch, was written in and directly inspired by Tangier. Burroughs' writing utilised the cut-up technique pioneered by the multitalented Brion Gysin, who also spent a significant part of his life here. Burroughs, along with Paul Bowles, inspired a coterie of local artists. The result was a mixed bag, from the heights of artistic creativity to the lows of moral depravity. Traces of Tangier's grimy literary history can still be found:
AHotel el-Muniria The hotel where William Burroughs wrote Naked Lunch, holed up with a supply of typewriter ribbons and methadone.
ALe Tangerine A sleazy bar turned tourist and hipster hang-out, where Ginsberg, Kerouac and others drank: check the photos on the wall.
ACafé Central Burroughs’ principal hang-out on the Petit Socco, where he sized up his louche opportunities.
Lonely Planet Morocco Page 44