ATangier American Legation Museum Houses a wing dedicated to Paul Bowles, as well as a small section on the Beats.
AHotel Continental Scenes from the movie version of Paul Bowles’ The Sheltering Sky were filmed here.
AGran Café de Paris The main post-WWII literary salon during the Interzone, it also drew Tennessee Williams and Truman Capote.
For more on the Beats, and Tangier's other writers, read Josh Shoemakers essential Tangier: A Literary Guide for Travellers.
6Drinking & Nightlife
Given Tangiers hedonistic past, it’s no surprise that the drinking scene here is firmly entrenched in Tangerine culture. It’s equally unsurprising that bars are principally the domain of men, although there are a few more-Westernised places where women can have a drink. Many only get going after midnight.
Tangier’s clubbing scene picks up in the summer, when Europeans arrive on the ferries. Discos cluster near Pl de France and line the beach, appealing to a wide range of clientele, from grey-haired couples to sex tourists. Cover charges vary and may be rolled into drink prices. If leaving late, have the doorman call a taxi.
oGran Café de ParisCAFE
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Pl de France; h6am-10.30pm)
Gravity weighs upon the grand letters of the Gran Café de Paris, reminding us of its age at the crossroads of Tangier. Facing the Pl de France since 1927, this is the most famous of the coffee establishments along Blvd Pasteur, most recently used as a setting in The Bourne Ultimatum. In the past it was a prime gathering spot for the Tangier literati.
Number OneBAR
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; h11am-midnight)
A perennially popular place with Tangerine expats, this small bar (there's a restaurant next door) does cold beer, decent wine and spirits, and a good stab at tapas. The decor is adorably funky, as is the bar's CD collection. Perfect for a low-key drink; women are welcome.
Caid's BarBAR
(El-Minzah; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 85 Rue de la Liberté; h10am-midnight)
Long the establishment's drinking hole of choice, this El-Minzah landmark is a classy relict of the grand days of international Tangier, and photos of the famous and infamous adorn the walls. Women are more than welcome and the adjacent wine bar (wine from Dh35) is equally good.
Piano Bar at El Morocco ClubBAR
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Pl du Tabor, Kasbah; hfrom 8pm Tue-Sun)
An atmospheric medina bar on the edge of the kasbah, this is a good place for a drink. There's usually live music at weekends, and a fresh breeze at any time.
Nord Pinus TangerBAR
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Rue Riad Sultan, Kasbah; h11am-midnight)
On the top floor of this kasbah guesthouse is a bar and terrace, with fabulous views across to Spain. Sip a cocktail in the retro-chic lounge full of quirky chairs, Moroccan cushions and contemporary photography. A great place for a chilled-out drink
Beach Club 555CLUB
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Ave Mohammed VI; h10am-3am; W)
A beach club by day with pool, pizzeria and bar with a sports screen (admission Dh100), at night the Triple 5 morphs into one of the best discos in the city. Dance up a storm with the resident and visiting DJs.
Le TangerineBAR
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 1 Rue Magellan, Hotel el-Muniria; h10.30pm-1am, to 3am Fri & Sat)
A last hold-out from the Beat days, the Tangerine (or 'Tangier Inn') was where William Burroughs took Kerouac and Ginsberg drinking. It's a little cleaner, with a hint of Moroccan hipster about it now, but still a decent place to grab a beer.
Café CentralCAFE
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Petit Socco; h6am-11.30pm)
The premier people-watching site in the medina, with tables on the pavement facing Petit Socco. See the local Mafiosi arrive in his new Benz, watch odd specimens of humanity drift past, hear the strange shouts echo down the alleys, and wonder what is going on upstairs. It’s the perfect place to sip your coffee.
Americain’s PubBAR
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Rue al-Moutanabi; hnoon-2am)
Don’t be fooled by the name: this pub is outfitted as an authentic part of the London underground, with white tiled walls, ubiquitous red trim and signage far more authentic than the Bobbies would appreciate. It’s the perfect place to hide: there’s no street number, and the phone is out of order.
Regine ClubCLUB
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 8 Rue al-Mansour Dahabi; h10pm-3am Mon-Sat)
Welcome to the 1980s. This disco has stayed the same so long it is a museum piece, replete with glass-reflecting ball and purple velour couches. It has a great atmosphere after midnight, especially on weekends.
Hole in the Wall BarBAR
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Rue du Prince Heretier; h11am-midnight)
For chuckles only, walk up Rue Prince Héretier from the Terrasse des Paresseux one-and-a-half blocks and you will see a pair of swinging black doors, Old West style. Welcome to the smallest bar in Tangier, if not the world. Beer (from Dh20) only.
3Entertainment
Cinema RifCINEMA
(Cinematheque de Tanger; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0539 93 46 83; Grand Socco)
In this fine, well-restored art-deco building you’ll find both indie and mainstream films, mostly American, Moroccan, Spanish or French (with Spanish and American films typically dubbed into Arabic).
SPOT THE CELEB
Sashay past the doorman at El-Minzah hotel and glide down the stairs to the beautiful Andalucian courtyard where there are dozens of photographs of celebrity visitors around the walls. Most of the photos date from the 1950s and 60s. A suave Rock Hudson, Aristotle Onassis in a white car, Jackie O too, Winston Churchill with his cigar, and glitzy Rita Hayworth are just some that we spotted. Then head for Caid’s Bar for a cocktail while you decide where they’ll hang your photo.
7Shopping
Medina
Boutique MajidANTIQUES, JEWELLERY
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0539 93 88 92; Rue Les Almohades; h10am-7pm)
You can get lost for hours in this exotic antique shop, but the real gem is Majid himself. Straight out of central casting (including his red fez), Majid will regale you with stories of the Rolling Stones and other luminaries while showing you his amazing collection of Moroccan doors, jewellery and artefacts, clothing, fabrics and carpets.
Laura WeflingARTS & CRAFTS, CLOTHING
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Pl de la Kasbah; h11am-6pm)
Next to the Kasbah Museum, this is a beautiful shop with some superb one-off pieces of clothing, bags, decor items and ceramics.
Bleu de FèsANTIQUES
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0539 33 60 67; www.bleudefes.com; 16 Rue Les Almohades, Petit Socco; h10am-7pm)
Drool over stacks and stacks of Berber carpets from the Middle and High Atlas.
Ville Nouvelle
oDARNA, The Women’s Association of TangierARTS & CRAFTS
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.darnamaroc.com)
The yellow building opposite La Terrasse is a small complex offering an inexpensive restaurant, a boutique shop with crafts and clothing, and a sunny courtyard, making it a popular stop for lunch or just a place to relax. Since 2002 DARNA has served as a community house to help local women in need, such as those suffering the after effects of divorce.
oLas ChicasARTS & CRAFTS, CLOTHING
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0539 37 45 10; 52 Kacem Guenoun, Porte de la Kasbah; h10am-7pm Mon-Sat)
Just outside the kasbah, this is an eclectic mixture of a shop, stocking art pieces, homeware, cosmetics and some exquisite designer clothes, alongside a cafe. Offering a fun twist on the usual Moroccan style, this place is an absolute treat.
Librairie des ColonnesBOOKS
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %5399 93 69 55; 54 Blvd Pasteur; h9.30am-1pm & 4-7pm Mon-Sat)
A famous landmark boasting wonderful architecture, this is Tangier’s best bookshop, with a decent English section. There are frequent book readings and events, including author appearances. It was once the haunt of Paul Bowles, Jean Genet, Samuel Becket and William Burroughs, and i
s an institution in Tangier.
Ensemble ArtisanatARTS & CRAFTS
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; cnr Rue Belgique & Rue M’sallah; h9am-1pm & 3-7pm Sat-Thu)
This government-backed arts-and-crafts centre is a good place to see the range of local crafts and watch the artisans at work. There’s no haggling, as prices are fixed, and they are also much higher than in the souqs.
Bazar TindoufANTIQUES
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 72 Rue de la Liberté; h10am-7pm)
This shop opposite El-Minzah Hotel is bursting to the seams with antiques, glassware, brassware, ceramics, lamps, jewellery, clothing and more. It’s definitely worth a browse.
El TapiseroARTS & CRAFTS
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0539 94 56 81; www.eltapisero.com; 61 Blvd Yacoub el Mansour, Charf; h9.30am-1pm & 3-7pm Mon-Thu, 9.30am-noon Fri & Sat)
Make like Madonna and order a handmade carpet at El Tapisero. The team at this carpet-weaving enterprise is very creative and works with some of the big European decorators. Expect to pay about €50 to €250 per square metre.
La Casa BarataMARKET
( GOOGLE MAP ; Ave Abou Kacem Sebti; h9am-8pm Thu & Sun)
Literally ‘the cheap house’, this large flea market carries everything you can imagine, from vegetables to electronics to carpets. The best opportunity to find real treasure, and an experience unto itself.
Fès MarketMARKET
( MAP GOOGLE MAP )
This market, to the west of the city centre, is good for imported cheese and other treats.
TANGIER FOR CHILDREN
For kids, M’Nar Park ( GOOGLE MAP ; %0539 34 38 29; www.facebook.com/pages/Mnar-Park-Piscine/485227728156690; Cap Malabata; aquapark adult/child Dh100/50; hpool 15 Jun-15 Sep) is heaven. Located south of Cap Malabata, with great views across the Bay of Tangier, this cliffside resort offers a water park, an electronic game park, karting, a small train, a mini-football field, restaurants, a cafe and 38 residential bungalows for families.
In town and close to the Grand Socco, the Mendoubia Gardens is a park with grass for playing football and swings for letting off steam.
8Information
Orientation
Tangier is divided into the old walled city (medina) and the modern city (ville nouvelle). The medina contains a kasbah (the walled fortress of the sultan); the historic meeting place of Petit Socco (also known as Socco Chico) in the centre; and of course the souqs. The larger Grand Socco (now officially called Pl du 9 Avril 1947), a pleasant square with a central fountain, is the hinge between the two sides of town, and the postcard entrance to the medina.
Dangers & Annoyances
As in any big city, it’s best to stick to the beaten path at all times, and to take cabs point to point at night. Solo women may be subject to being hassled after about 10pm, and should avoid the port area after dark. If you have a serious problem and need help from the authorities, contact the Brigade Touristique (Tourist Police; GOOGLE MAP ; %177; Ave Mohammed VI, Tangier Port).
Internet
Espace NetINTERNET
( GOOGLE MAP ; 16 Ave Mexique; per hr Dh5; h9.30am-1am)
Medical Services
Hopital Mohammed V ( GOOGLE MAP ; %0539 93 08 56; Ave Moulay Rachid)
Clinique du Croissant Rouge (Red Cross Clinic; GOOGLE MAP ; %0539 94 69 76, 0539 94 69 76; 6 Rue al-Mansour Dahabi) On the road to the airport.
Pharmacy Anegay ( GOOGLE MAP ; Rue as-Siaghin; h8am-6pm Mon-Sat)
Money
Blvds Pasteur and Mohammed V are lined with numerous banks with ATMs and bureau de change counters. Outside of working hours, try the exchange bureaus in the big hotels.
BMCE ( GOOGLE MAP ; Blvd Pasteur; h8am-4pm Mon-Fri) One of several in this area.
Societé Générale Bank ( GOOGLE MAP ) ATM and money exchange.
Post
Main Post Office ( GOOGLE MAP ; cnr Rue Quevada & Ave Mohammed V; h8am-4pm Mon-Fri) Poste restante is at the counter furthest to the right; parcel post is on the south side of the building.
Tourist Information
Délégation Régionale du Tourisme ( GOOGLE MAP ; %0539 94 80 50; 29 Blvd Pasteur; h9am-1pm & 3-6pm Mon-Fri) The recent investment in tourism infrastructure hasn’t made it here. Some verbal help, but no printed material. The Hotel de Paris across the road has lots of brochures and staff are willing to help.
Travel Agencies
The following both sell ferry and air tickets.
Carlson Wagonlit ( GOOGLE MAP ; %0539 33 10 24; 91 Rue de la Liberté; h9am-1pm & 3-6pm Mon-Fri)
Hispamaroc ( GOOGLE MAP ; %0539 93 21 78; [email protected]; 2 Rue el-Jabha el-Ouatania; h9am-1pm & 3-6pm Mon-Fri)
8Getting There & Away
With a ferry port, international airport, train station and buses, Tangier is possibly Morocco's best-connected city.
Air
The Ibn Batouta International Airport ( GOOGLE MAP ; %0539 39 37 20) is 15km southwest of the city centre. It attracts a number of budget airlines (including easyJet, RyanAir and Air Arabia) as well as Iberia and Royal Air Maroc. Check the internet for the latest service providers and schedules, as these are constantly changing.
Boat
Tangier effectively has two ports: Tangier Port ( GOOGLE MAP ) (in the city) and the newer Tanger Med terminal, 48km east along the coast.
From Tangier Port, there are fast catamaran ferries run by FRS ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.frs.es) and Inter Shipping ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.intershipping.es) to Tarifa (Dh350, 40 minutes). There are more than a dozen sailings a day, with the ferry companies leaving on alternate hours. The service includes a free bus transfer to Algeciras (50 minutes) on presentation of your ferry ticket.
Tickets are available from the company ticket booths ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) outside the ferry terminal building at Tangier Port, in the terminal itself, or from virtually any travel agency around town; be sure to pick up an exit form so you can avoid hassles later.
Services from Tanger Med are primarily to Algeciras. A shuttle bus (Dh25) leaves Tanger Med every hour on the hour for the Tangier bus station, taking 45 minutes.
Book in advance during peak periods (particularly Easter, the last week in August and the last week in October), allow an hour before departure to get tickets and navigate passport control, and remember the time difference with Spain (Morocco is one hour behind, and two hours behind during Ramadan). If you're arriving in Morocco, remember to get your passport stamped on the ferry.
Bus
CTM buses depart from the main bus station (gare routière; GOOGLE MAP ; %0539 94 69 28; Pl Jamaa el-Arabia), about 2km to the south of the city centre by the Syrian mosque – the distinctly un-Moroccan-looking minarets are a useful nearby landmark. Destinations include the following:
Destination Cost (Dh) Duration (hr)
Casablanca 150 5½
Chefchaouen 50 3
Fez 125 6
Marrakesh 250 10
Meknès 100 5
Rabat 115 4
Tetouan 25 1
Cheaper bus companies also operate from the main bus station. There are regular departures for all the destinations listed for CTM, plus services to Al-Hoceima (Dh105, 10 hours) and Fnideq (Dh25, 1½ hours) – a small town 3km from the Ceuta border. A metered petit taxi to/from the town centre is around Dh10.
The main bus station has a left-luggage facility ( GOOGLE MAP ; per item per 24hr Dh5-7; h5am-1am).
Car
The major car-rental agencies are at the airport. The following have in-town locations:
Avis ( GOOGLE MAP ; %0539 93 46 46; www.avis.com/car-rental/location/AFR/MA/Tanger; 54 Blvd Pasteur; h8am-7pm Mon-Sat, 8am-noon Sun)
Budget ( GOOGLE MAP ; %0531 06 09 51; Tanger Ville station; h8.30am-noon & 2.30-7pm Mon-Fri, 9am-noon & 3-6pm Sat, 9am-noon Sun)
Hertz ( GOOGLE MAP ; %0539 32 21 65; 36 Ave Mohammed V; h8am-noon & 2.30-6.30pm Mon-Fri, 9am-noon & 3-6pm Sat, 9am-noon Sun)
A reasonably secure and convenient car park ( GOOGLE MAP ; 42 Rue Hollande; per hour/night/24hr Dh2/15/25) is nex
t to the Dawliz complex.
There are a number of gas stations around town.
Taxi
The grand-taxi ( GOOGLE MAP ) rank for places outside Tangier is across from the main bus station. The most common destinations are Tetouan (Dh35, one hour, change here for Chefchaouen), Asilah (Dh20, 30 minutes) and Larache (Dh35, 1½ hours). For Ceuta, travel to Fnideq (Dh30, one hour), 3km from the border. There are no direct taxis to the border (Bab Sebta). Grands taxis to Tetouan also frequently wait for arriving trains at Tanger Ville train station. For destinations on the outskirts of Tangier, such as the Caves of Hercules or Cap Malabata, use the grand-taxi ( GOOGLE MAP ) rank on the Grand Socco.
Train
Tanger Ville is a hassle-free train station, though under massive remodelling as a terminus for the planned TGV line to Casablanca. Trains depart throughout the day for Meknès (Dh90), Fez (Dh111), Rabat (Dh101), Casablanca (Dh132) and Marrakesh (Dh 216), including a night service with couchettes, the famed Marrakesh Express, which should be reserved in advance (single Dh660, double per person Dh470, Dh370 with couchette). A petit taxi to/from Tangier centre should cost around Dh10.
8Getting Around
To/From The Airport or Tanger Med
AIbn Batouta Airport From the port in the city to the airport, a grand taxi takes 25 minutes and costs Dh150 for the entire car. If you want to pick up a local bus from the airport, bus 17 and bus 70 run to the Grand Socco, but you’ll need to walk 2km to the main road.
Lonely Planet Morocco Page 45