Lonely Planet Morocco
Page 53
Melilla
1Top Sights
1Melilla la ViejaF2
2Palacio de AsambleaD3
1Sights
3Aljibes de las PeñuelasE2
4Banco de EspañaD2
5Casino MilitarD2
6Gaselec MuseumB4
7Iglesia de la Purísima ConcepciónE2
8Las Cuevas del ConventicoE2
9Museo Etnográfico de la Culturas Amazigh & SefardíE2
10Museo MilitarE1
11Parque HernándezB3
12Playa de la Ensanada de los GalápagosE2
13Plaza de EspañaD3
14Puerta de la MarinaE2
15Statue Grande LibreC2
4Sleeping
16Hostal CazazaB2
17Hostal Residencia RiojaC2
18Hotel AnforaD2
19Hotel NacionalB2
20Hotel RusadirD2
21Parador de MelillaD1
22Pensíon La Rosa BlancaB1
5Eating
23Cafetéria MilitarD2
24GranierC2
25La PérgolaE2
26Nuevo CaliforniaC2
27ParnasoA4
6Drinking & Nightlife
28Café La Dolce VitaD2
29Café LatogaD2
30Casa MartaC2
31El GaleónD4
32La Onubense de MoquiB3
La PérgolaE2
8Information
33Andalucía TravelB3
34Fundación Melilla Ciudad MonumentalF2
35Oficina del Turismo (main)D2
36Viajes MelillaB4
37Viajes MelisurB3
Transport
38Buses to BorderC3
39Estación MarítimaF2
40TrasmediterráneaF3
1Sights
Melilla is a semicircle of 12 sq km carved out of the Moroccan coastline. The old town, Melilla la Vieja, is a highly complex, multilevel fortress that juts out into the sea. It contains numerous museums, as well as some small residential areas. The port and major beaches lie to the south, with the ferry terminal directly east.
The ‘new town’ is a broken grid of streets with an attractive commercial centre full of modernist buildings. The heart is the long triangular Parque Hernández, which ends at the circular Plaza de España. Most of the hotels, banks and restaurants are located to the north.
Melilla la Vieja
oMelilla la ViejaFORT
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Calle General Macías)
Perched over the Mediterranean, Melilla la Vieja is a prime example of the fortress strongholds that the Spaniards built along the Moroccan littoral during the 16th and 17th centuries. Much of it has been painstakingly restored in recent years. The main entrance is Puerta de la Marina, from where you ascend to the summit, passing several small museums.
Signage, in Spanish, French and English, is very good.
Puerta de la MarinaGATE
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Calle General Macías)
The main entrance to the Melilla la Vieja fortress is Puerta de la Marina, fronted by a statue of Franco – one of the few remaining on public display in Spain.
Museo Etnográfico de la Culturas Amazigh & SefardíMUSEUM
(Almacenes de la Peñuelas; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0952 97 62 16; Plaza Pedro de Estopiñán; h10am-2pm & 5-9pm Tue-Sat, 10am-2pm Sun summer, 10am-2pm & 4-8pm Tue-Sat, 10am-2pm Sun winter)F
This charming newly opened museum charts the history of the Amazigh (Berber) and Sephardic (Jewish) cultures in Melilla, which have contributed to the enclave's rich multicultural mix.
Aljibes de las PeñuelasHISTORIC BUILDING
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; h10am-2pm & 5-9.30pm Tue-Sat, 10am-2pm Sun Apr-Sep)F
The small door across the courtyard leads into the cave-like, other-worldly cistern that is still flowing.
Iglesia de la Purísima ConcepciónCHURCH
(Parish of the Immaculate Conception; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0952 68 15 16; h10am-3pm & 4-9pm Tue-Sat, 10am-12.30pm Sun)
This 17th-century church is worth a stop for its resplendent nave.
Las Cuevas del ConventicoHISTORIC BUILDING
(Caves of the Convent; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0952 68 09 29; €1.20; h10.30am-1.30pm & 4.30-8pm Tue-Sat, 10.30am-2pm Sun)
These extensive and well-restored caves were used as a refuge during sieges, and pop out at a small beach below the cliffs. The Calle de la Concepción continues up to the baroque Iglesia de la Purísima Concepción and, just below it, the entrance to Las Cuevas del Conventico.
The Phoenicians first excavated the tunnels; later occupiers took turns enlarging them and they now extend over three levels. They are meticulously maintained and well lit, which sadly eliminates much of their mystery. A short film and guided tour (both in Spanish) detail the history of the caves and tunnels that lead to the cliff face.
Museo MilitarMUSEUM
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Melilla la Vieja; h10am-2pm Tue-Sun)F
Near the Iglesia de la Concepción, the Museo Militar is perched high over the Mediterranean. Its two small rooms are stuffed full of exhibits from the Spanish military in Melilla: regimental flags, medals, some great old photos and a motley collection of weapons and the obligatory bust of Franco.
Playa de la Ensanada de los GalápagosBEACH
( MAP GOOGLE MAP )
The secluded beach of Playa de la Ensanada de los Galápagos is reached by taking a tunnel under Melilla's fortress. The beach is in a cove surrounded by cliffs and the fort walls, and is open May to September (with lifeguards on duty).
New Town
Construction of the new part of town, west of the fortress, began at the end of the 19th century. Laid out by Gaudí-disciple Don Enrique Nieto, Melilla is considered by some to be Spain's 'second modernist city', after Barcelona. The highlight is Plaza de España, with the lovely facade of the Palacio de la Asamblea facing Parque Hernández.
At the turn of the 20th century, Melilla was the only centre of trade between Tetouan and the Algerian border. As the city grew, it expressed itself in the architectural style of Modernisme (not to be confused with the cultural movement of modernism), which was then in vogue. This trend continued locally even after it went out of fashion elsewhere. The result is a living museum of hundreds of modernist and art-deco buildings. Unlike Ceuta, many of these treasures have yet to be dusted off, but the overall architectural wealth is greater.
The best way to appreciate this heritage is to stroll through the area to the north of Parque Hernández; it’s known as ‘the golden triangle’.
oPalacio de AsambleaNOTABLE BUILDING
( MAP GOOGLE MAP )
Nieto’s art-deco Palacio de Asamblea, whose floor plan depicts a ducal crown, is an operating town hall, although the staff at the entrance are willing to show tourists around upon request. Worth seeing are two rooms on the upper floor: Salon Dorado, which contains a large painting of the arrival of Spaniards in Melilla in 1497, and the Sala de Plenos, where the local congress meets.
Plaza de EspañaLANDMARK
( MAP GOOGLE MAP )
Several fine examples of the city's heritage are on the Plaza de España, including Nieto’s Casino Militar ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ), and the Banco de España ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ).
With its central fountain, the Plaza is a pleasant place to sit. At the centre is an art-deco military monument to campaigns in Morocco.
In the distance towards the sea you can spot Melilla’s most striking contemporary building, the new courthouse, which looks like a flying saucer landed on the roof (closed to visitors).
Parque HernándezPARK
( MAP GOOGLE MAP )F
From the Plaza, take a pleasant stroll down the long, palm-lined Parque Hernández. At the end, turn left down Calle Sotomayor. Plaza de Toros, the only operating bull ring in Africa, lies straight ahead.
Gaselec MuseumMUSEUM
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0952 69 55 75; www.fundaciongaselec.es; Plaza Rafael Fernández de Castro y Pedrera; h6-9pm Mon-Fri, 11.30am-1.30pm & 6-9pm Sat & Sun)F
&n
bsp; Just off Parque Hernandez is this intriguing oddity, the passion of the former president of the local gas and electric company. It houses a museum of Ancient Egypt composed entirely of reproductions, including King Tut’s mask and sarcophagus.
Statue Grande LibreMONUMENT
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Avenida de Juan Carlos I Rey, New Town)
Melilla's role in modern Spanish history isn't forgotten. The Statue Grande Libre marks 7 July 1936, when Franco began the campaign against the government in Madrid. With a soldier and lion backed by a Fascist eagle, it feels like a throwback to another, uncomfortable age.
MODERNISME & MELILLA
Like many of the movements from which it drew its inspiration (eg the English Arts & Crafts movement), Modernisme was a broad reaction to the material values of an industrial age, which suffused culture with a machinelike spirit. Centred in Barcelona, it was the Catalan version of art nouveau. Modernisme architecture is characterised by the use of curves over straight lines, the frequent use of natural motifs (especially plants), lively decoration and rich detail, asymmetrical forms, a refined aesthetic and dynamism. Its chief proponent was Antoni Gaudí, the architect of Barcelona’s famous Sagrada Família cathedral. But in Melilla, Modernisme is synonymous with Enrique Nieto.
A student of Gaudí, Nieto worked on his Casa Milà in Barcelona. Wanting to escape his master’s shadow, however, he left for booming Melilla in 1909 and stayed the rest of his life, becoming city architect in 1931. His work included Melilla’s main synagogue, the main mosque and several buildings for the Catholic Church, representing the diversity of the city’s culture. Perhaps due to the distant location of his canvas, however, this great painter in concrete is not well-known outside of Melilla.
4Sleeping
There aren’t many hotels in Melilla, so they tend to fill up even in the quieter months. Book ahead.
Hostal CazazaHOTEL€
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0956 68 46 48; 6 Calle Primo de Rivera; s/d €28/40)
This old modernist building, with its high ceilings and small balconies, has ramshackle charm, and a central location in the golden triangle. Rooms are clean and management is friendly.
Hostal Residencia RiojaHOSTEL€
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0956 68 27 09; 10 Calle Ejército Español; s/d €22/35)
Don't be put off by the gloomy and uninspiring entrance. Rooms here at this rock-bottom pension are a little tired but wellkept. Rooms have basins; the bathrooms are shared.
Residencia de Estudiantes y DeportistasHOSTEL€
(Residence of Students & Athletes; GOOGLE MAP ; %0952 67 00 08; Calle Alfonso X; per person incl breakfast €25, half-board €30, full-board €35; W)
A reasonable budget choice if you don’t mind being away from the town centre, and like hanging out with students. There are 87 rooms, a cafeteria, a library and a TV lounge. Rooms above the 2nd floor have balconies.
Take local bus 3, which stops near Plaza España on Calle Marina every 10 minutes, though there are fewer services on weekends. The trip takes 10 to 15 minutes.
Pensíon La Rosa BlancaHOTEL€
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0952 68 27 38; 7 Calle Gran Capitán; s/d without bathroom €30/40)
A very basic option; the rooms are clean but vary in quality, size and fittings, so make sure you look before you pay. Rooms have sinks but bathrooms are shared.
Hotel RusadirHOTEL€€
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0956 68 12 40; www.hotelrusadir.com; 5 Calle Pablo Vallescá; s/d incl breakfast €68/80; aW)
This four-star hotel has been completely renovated to excellent effect, including an impressive lobby and design-conscious rooms with TVs, minibars and balconies. The restaurant puts out an impressive breakfast buffet. Good value.
Hotel AnforaHOTEL€€
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0956 68 33 40; www.hotelanfora.net; 8 Calle Pablo Vallescá; s/d incl breakfast €45/71; aW)
This three-star hotel is in an excellent location and offers good-sized, standard-fare rooms with TVs, fridges and balconies, as well as a gym. The rooftop restaurant serves a basic breakfast as you enjoy vistas of Melilla la Vieja and of the sea beyond. Popular and reliable, if unexciting.
Hotel NacionalHOTEL€€
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0956 68 45 40; 10 Calle Primo de Rivera; s/d €40/60; aW)
This hotel has mostly compact rooms, with minibars, quaint iron furniture and modern bathrooms. Those facing inside are a bit dark, so get one looking to the street. Management is friendly, and there’s a restaurant.
Parador de MelillaHOTEL€€€
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0956 68 49 40; www.parador.es; Ave Cándido Lobera; r €150; aWs)
You’ll need a vehicle to get to this classy choice with large, grand rooms, warm use of wood throughout, a high level of quality furnishings and balconies with great views to sea. The circular dining room overlooking the city is an elegant touch. The adjacent Parque Lobera is great for kids.
5Eating
Many of Melilla’s restaurants are associated with hotels (like the Rusadir or the Parador), but there are plenty of others around Ave de Juan Carlos I Rey.
There are plenty of small grocery shops in the streets around Parque Hernández. Supersol ( GOOGLE MAP ; Calle General Polavieja; h10am-10pm Mon-Sat) is on the road to the frontier.
GranierCAFE€
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 7 Calle General Chacel; sandwiches from €2.50; h7am-9pm; W)
This cafe and bakery with indoor and outdoor seating is good to grab a quick eat or while away an hour with a book and a coffee. The bocadillos (sandwiches) are a perfect lunchtime snack, and it does some delicious fruit smoothies.
Cafetéria MilitarSPANISH€
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Calle de Almovodar; mains €8; h1-3.30pm Mon-Sat)
A huge canteen-like affair on the side of the Palacio de Asamblea, with a few tables outside as well, this restaurant is hugely busy for its short lunchtime openings.
ParnasoBISTRO€
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0952 68 41 84; 30 Avenida Duquesa de la Victoria; sandwiches from €2.50; h7am-1am Mon-Sat)
This bistro with outdoor seating offers tasty sandwiches and tapas for an easy light meal with drinks. Popular during lunch and with the after-work crowd.
Nuevo CaliforniaINTERNATIONAL€
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0952 68 22 64; Plaza Menéndez; h7.30am-1.30pm & 4-9.30pm Mon-Fri)
This modern cafeteria on a plaza terrace has a wide-ranging menu and friendly waiters eager to help your clumsy Spanish along. The sandwiches and pasta are particularly good, all washed down with a cold cerveza (beer).
oLa PérgolaSEAFOOD€€
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0952 68 56 28; Calle General Marcías; mains from €10; hnoon-midnight)
A waterfront terrace makes this classy spot beneath the fortress walls a very pleasant place for a meal, or just a late-afternoon drink. The speciality is barbecued seafood, and at €10 the prix-fixe menu cannot be beaten – as the crowds can attest. There's a lively atmosphere in the evenings.
6Drinking & Nightlife
Tapas bars are a highlight of Melilla, especially if you've spent a lot of time in Morocco prior to arrival. Puerto Deportivo Noray is Melilla’s bar zone, with a dozen different options grouped side by side on the waterfront. Enter through the car park next to the courthouse.
oCasa MartaTAPAS
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Calle Justo Sancho Miñano; tapas from €2; h1-3.30pm & 8pm-1am)
This is a great tapas bar that brims with people of all ages both inside and out: outdoor seating is under a tent in the street. Free tapas is included with drinks; larger plates are available from the menu.
La Onubense de MoquiTAPAS
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 5 Calle Pareja; tapas from €2; hnoon-3pm & 7pm-midnight Mon-Sat)
With its rough-hewn wood furniture and unpolished decor, this place looks like the quintessential tapas bar. The house speciality is spicy bollito de Pringá (meatball) and other classic tapas delicacies.
La PérgolaCAFE
(
MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Calle General Marcías; h3-11pm)
This cafe-bar on the pleasure-yacht harbour is an exceedingly pleasant place for a drink in the late afternoon, particularly on its wide sunny terrace on the waterfront.
Café La Dolce VitaTAPAS
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Plaza de la Culturas; tapas from €1.50, raciones from €6; h10am-11pm)
This large, buzzy cafe and tapas bar has seating all around a corner of the plaza. Have a coffee, an ice cream or a drink with tapas while people-watching on the square.
El GaleónBAR
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0952 69 55 25; Explanada de San Lorenzo, Hotel Melilla Puerto; h5pm-midnight)
With its long wooden bar and brass fixtures, the classy bar inside the Melilla Puerto follows the hotel's nautical theme. Don't dress too scruffily here, but apart from that it's a relaxed place to enjoy tapas and a few drinks.