The park was created in 1991 in recognition of its importance as a feeding ground for birds. The Souss estuary, at the northern end of the park, and in particular the Massa coastal lagoon, near the southern end, are popular with birdwatchers.
The best times for birdwatching are from March to April and October to November. Birds found here include ospreys, marbled ducks, cormorants, greater flamingos, flocks of sandgrouse and warblers. But the biggest attraction is the northern bald ibis. These birds, revered in ancient Egypt and once widespread in central Europe, North Africa and the Middle East, are an endangered species, with the world's only sizeable population found on this stretch of coast. Tourism development is an ongoing threat to the four local breeding grounds, which remain off-limits, but you can spot ibises around Oued Massa or at the mouth of the Tamri River.
The park is a great place for walking. Animals such as jackals, red foxes, wild cats, genets and Eurasian wild boars are found here, while a large fenced area in the north of the park contains species that have disappeared from the south, including Dorcas and dama gazelles, addaxes, red-necked ostriches and scimitar-horned oryxes.
Guides can be arranged in the village of Massa, some 60km south of Agadir (signposted from the N1). From there, a track leads along the river to the estuary mouth (5km) and a tarred road leads to Sidi R’bat (8km). This tiny village has two claims to fame. Supposedly it is where the biblical Jonah was vomited up by a whale, and also where Uqba bin Nafi, the 7th-century Arab conqueror of Morocco, rode his horse triumphantly into the sea and called on God to witness that he could find no land left to conquer.
4Sleeping & Eating
There are restaurants at both accommodation options, and the simple cafe at La Dune is open to nonguests. Try the Berber omelette.
La DuneGUESTHOUSE€€
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0666 80 78 24; www.ladune.de; Sidi R'bat; s/d incl breakfast Dh400-650, tent per person incl breakfast from Dh100; a)
La Dune has basic two- and four-person Berber tents, a pleasantly cool tented restaurant (dinner Dh70) and African-themed, occasionally garish rooms with balconies. It's an easy walk downhill through the dunes to the beach.
Ksar MassaHOTEL€€€
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0661 28 03 19; www.ksarmassa.com; Sidi R’bat; s/d incl breakfast Dh1500/2000, tent s/d Dh750/1200; aWs)
Spectacularly located on Sidi R'bat beach, Ksar Massa is a fantastical destination in itself. The terracotta-and-blue contemporary kasbah is a wonderful place to unwind, with hazy ocean views from its perch above the pale sands. Luxuriously spacious rooms and suites are painted in bright colours and meals (lunch/dinner Dh170/300) are sumptuous affairs with multiple dishes. Management can arrange guided trips into the park.
To get there, follow the signs from Massa or 3km south of Belfaa.
8Getting There & Away
From Agadir and Inezgane, Tiznit-bound local buses and grands taxis will drop you in Belfaa or Massa (about Dh30). From either, a grand taxi to Sidi R'bat costs about Dh220. Accommodation options in Sidi R'bat also offer transfers to/from Agadir airport (about Dh450). From Massa, it is about an hour’s walk to Oued Massa river mouth; 4WDs also head into the park, but both Oued Massa and Oued Souss are usually accessible by 2WD (or grand taxi).
Travel agencies in Agadir also offer convenient day trips to the area.
North of Agadir
Despite the villas, fun parks, golf courses and development projects colonising the coast around Agadir, if you’re looking for surf and less crowded beaches, head north. There are sandy coves every few kilometres, and welcoming accommodation and eateries make it a good place to relax for a few days even if you don't surf.
8Getting There & Away
Grands taxis travel between Agadir and Taghazout (Dh10) via Aourir and Tamraght. Another option is bus 32 (Dh5) running along Ave Mohammed V in Agadir.
Tamraght & Aourir
Aourir and Tamraght are known collectively as Banana Village because of the banana groves alongside Oued Tamraght, which separates the villages. Respectively some 12km and 14km north of Agadir, they share Banana Beach, which can be good for beginner surfers at its southern end. Aourir has facilities such as a petrol station, a post office and banks.
At Rocher du Diable, round the headland to the north of Banana Beach, Surf Maroc offers surfboard rental and lessons. As in Taghazout, various companies offer accommodation and surf packages.
Accommodation owners in Tamraght are keen to expand the area's reputation beyond surfing, and can arrange market visits, cooking classes, hammam and yoga sessions, and workshops learning traditional Berber and Moroccan crafts.
2Activities
Lunar Surf HouseART, COOKING
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0679 53 50 49; www.thelunarsurfhouse.com; Tamraght; per person from Dh270)
Various activities including pottery, carpet weaving, tadelakt (lime plaster), traditional fabric dyeing, Berber embroidery and wood carving are available through Lunar Surf House's program of Creative Expression workshops. Excursions to Banana Beach's Wednesday souq followed by a Moroccan cookery class (Dh220) are also on offer.
Surf MarocSURFING
( GOOGLE MAP ; www.surfmaroc.com; surfboard/bodyboard/paddleboard rental from Dh/70/35/100, surf lessons from Dh150)
From its oceanside base on Imourane Beach, Surf Maroc offers lessons and surfboard, bodyboard, paddleboard and wetsuit rental.
4Sleeping
oLunar Surf HouseGUESTHOUSE€
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0679 53 50 49; www.thelunarsurfhouse.com; dm/d incl breakfast from Dh140/325; W)
Run by a young switched-on Australian–Moroccan couple, Lunar Surf House is – despite its name – also an excellent place to stay, even if you're not into surfing. Adil and Irene can certainly arrange surfboard hire and lessons, but the colourfully decorated and spotless rooms and dorms are also the perfect base for trips to Paradise Valley, yoga sessions or creative workshops.
Breakfast on the funky rooftop terrace and other meals get rave reviews from guests.
Hotel LittoralHOTEL€
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0528 31 47 26; www.hotellittoral.com; Rte d'Essaouira, Aourir; s/d/apt Dh251/310/650; Ws)
The kitschy Hotel Littoral is basic but comfortable, with a bar-restaurant and well-equipped en-suite rooms. It's handily located for transport options north to Essaouira or south to Agadir. Breakfast is an additional Dh30.
Riad Dar HavenB&B€€
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0528 31 54 34; www.riad-dar-haven; Hay Ait Soual, Tamraght; r/ste incl breakfast from Dh880/960; Ws)
Concealed behind a simple door in a nondescript Tamraght street, this lovely riad run by a Moroccan–Australian couple features nine rooms and suites arrayed around a swimming pool and shaded courtyard. A hammam and spa services are also available, and an adherence to sustainable practices has seen the property afforded Green Key status. Excellent lunches and dinners are also available.
Outside guests are welcome for these meal occasions (Dh190 per person), but priority is given to in-house guests so phone ahead to check availability and make bookings.
Villa MandalaGUESTHOUSE€€
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0528 31 47 73; www.surfmaroc.com; Aourir; r per week incl all meals Dh9000; Ws)
This beachfront villa at the southern end of Banana Beach is run by Surf Maroc and can be booked for yoga-focused stays of one or two weeks. The decor mixes traditional and contemporary with a curvy pool and a white rug-scattered interior. Prices include all meals enjoyed at a communal shared table, and surfing is also available.
5Eating
BabakoulCAFE€
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0611 14 76 25; Tamraght; mains Dh20-50; h8am-11pm)
With a breezy outdoor patio and a crazy paving mosaic floor, this cool little cafe is a relaxing spot to hang out in after a day's swimming or surfing. The versatile menu stretches from crêpes to grills and pizza, and fresh fruit juices and smoothies are also good.
Chez BrahimSEAFOOD€€
( GOOGLE MAP ; Rocher du Diable
; mains Dh70; hnoon-10pm)
The smartest of the restaurants near Banana Beach and Rocher du Diable, Chez Brahim serves hearty fish or meat platters (from Dh150) on its seafront terrace.
Banana BeachSEAFOOD€€
( GOOGLE MAP ; mains Dh70; h8am-4pm)
At the northern end of the beach, Banana Beach is the perfect spot to while away a few hours, offering sunloungers on the sands and seafood, omelettes, sandwiches and cold beer.
Taghazout تاغزوت
Pop 5400
Six kilometres from Tamraght, the laid-back fishing village of Taghazout, once famous for calamari and hippies, is now considered Morocco’s premier surfing destination for both pros and learners.
The scruffy roadside village is a mixed-up place – a largely dry tourist town where surf culture dominates. The main beach is great for swimming, but during and after the Moroccan summer holiday, the influx of domestic tourists can overwhelm the village's infrastructure.
Between Taghazout and Tamraght to the south, there is ongoing development of new accommodation and residential areas. Some of these projects have been put on hold, creating a forlorn landscape of cranes and building sites, but the easygoing village ambience of Taghazout itself is still largely intact.
2Activities
Surf breaks such as Hash Point, Panorama, Anchor Point, La Source, Killer Point and Mysteries surround the village, and the surf is most reliable from October to April.
The leading operator for lessons, board hire and accommodation packages is British-owned Surf Maroc, but numerous locals have followed in its wake, offering accommodation and surf packages, and board and wetsuit hire is available from many places in town.
oSurf MarocSURFING
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0528 20 02 30; www.surfmaroc.com)
Run by a group of passionate British surfers, Surf Maroc offers surfing lessons, board hire and yoga, and also operates three excellent cafes and interesting accommodation options around Taghazout and near Tamraght. All-inclusive surfing packages, including lessons, board hire, meals and accommodation, begin at Dh600 per night, and accommodation only is also available on a per-night basis.
Check the Surf Maroc website for more information on its diverse range of accommodation and activities.
4Sleeping
Taghazout has a good range of accommodation from, simple auberges through to a very comfortable luxury designer guesthouse. Locals also rent out apartments and rooms, which may be your only option in summer if you have not booked ahead.
Taghazout Surf HostelHOSTEL€
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0676 06 94 95; www.taghazoutsurfhostel.com; behind West Coast restaurant; r incl breakfast from Dh330; W)
Run by the friendly Yassine, this accommodation has basic double, twin, quadruple and six-bed rooms with shared bathrooms. Surfing lessons and gear hire is also available.
Taghazout VillaGUESTHOUSE€
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0528 20 02 30; www.surfmaroc.com; r per person incl breakfast Dh210-460; W)
Undergoing careful refurbishment when we dropped by, Taghazout Villa is Surf Maroc's good-value option for guests keen for a longer stay to learn how to surf. Nine rooms have a beachy ambience and the village location is excellent. Self-contained apartments nearby are also available for independent surfers keen to explore the breaks around Taghazout.
L’AubergeGUESTHOUSE€
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0528 20 02 72; www.surfmaroc.com; r per person from Dh210; W)
This beachfront whitewashed building was actually Taghazout's first guesthouse, and it's still a great place to stay with simple but stylish rooms giving front row access to the village's compact town beach and a few good cafes.
oAmouageBOUTIQUE HOTEL€€
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0528 20 02 30; www.surfmaroc.com; dm/r incl breakfast per person from Dh400/450; Ws)
Effortlessly raising the bar in Taghazout, Surf Maroc's newest opening is this super-stylish 'designer guesthouse'. Brilliant local art and photography fill the airy public spaces, an infinity pool with day beds segues to the Atlantic's horizon, and a hammam and massage centre is ideal after days spent surfing or exploring. There's also a restaurant and bar open to nonguests for lunch and dinner.
Nonguests can also buy a pass to use Amouage's pool and facilities – dependent on how full the hotel is – for a day (Dh120) or a week (Dh720).
5Eating & Drinking
The cafes near the main beach are good for coffee and juices, while Cafe Mouja has occasional music and cinema nights. There is a licensed bar at Amouage, which nonguests can enjoy over dinner.
Dar JospehineINTERNATIONAL, MOROCCAN€
( GOOGLE MAP ; mains Dh50-70; h9am-10pm)
The best of the cafes along Taghazout's main street, Dar Josephine features shaded tables under a grape arbour, and a band of friendly local cats. The three-course menu (Dh97) is good value and options for mains include roast chicken with garlic-and-thyme potatoes and a robust kefta (spiced lamb or beef meatballs) tagine. International influences creep in with zingy tzatziki and a hearty lasagne.
Cafe AftasCAFE€
( GOOGLE MAP ; Taghazout Beach; breakfast Dh15-25; h8am-10pm)
Juices, smoothies and great espresso with absolute beachfront views make this hole-in-the-wall a perfect spot to kick off another day in Taghazout.
Cafe MoujaCAFE€€
( GOOGLE MAP ; www.surfmaroc.com; snacks & mains Dh40-90; h7am-11pm)
Expansive windows with brilliant Atlantic Ocean views and chunky wooden furniture both feature at this coolly hip cafe behind Surf Maroc's shop. The menu straddles Moroccan favourites and Western comfort food – think chicken baguettes or beetroot-and-lentil salad – and good smoothies, juices and vegetarian offerings are all healthy options. Music and movie nights are regular events.
L’Auberge RestoINTERNATIONAL€€
(mains Dh60-80; h8am-11pm)
The cafe at L’Auberge is a funky hangout serving Moroccan and international food. Comfort food options include nachos, a shared antipasto plate, and excellent salads and curries. Named after a nearby surf break, the Killers burger combines cheese, avocado and caramelised onions. Moroccan options include tagines and a great Moroccan chicken stew, and the patio setting is quite romantic.
8Information
Taghazout has internet cafes and a pharmacy, but most facilities – including an ATM– are in Aourir.
Immouzzer des Ida Outanane ايموزار ادو اوتنان
The village of Immouzzer des Ida Outanane is in the High Atlas foothills, around 60km (two hours' drive) northeast of Agadir). Nearby is the aptly named Paradise Valley, an oleander- and palm-lined gorge, and a popular picnic and swimming spot. Local producers have formed a route du miel (honey route), and stalls sell the sweet stuff as well as argan oil. Signs by the road point to walking trails.
The area turns white in February and March when the almond trees blossom. There is a honey harvest and festival in July and August, and around late November you may be lucky enough to witness the olive harvest. Locals climb into the trees to shake olives from the branches and oil is pressed in the village. Thursday is souq day.
1Sights
The famous cascades of Immouzzer are one of North Africa’s most beautiful waterfalls. The calcium-rich water flows most strongly between February and August, although recent droughts have frequently reduced it to a trickle. Given the stream of tourist stalls and faux guides (unofficial guides) leading to the falls, you may prefer Paradise Valley.
When it’s flowing, water falls off the edge of the plateau in several chutes, running down one cliff face known as the Bride’s Veil. The path to the foot of the falls finishes at an iridescent blue plunge pool with overhanging rocks and foliage. If you can cross the river here, you can climb to a plateau and see the top plunge pool, and caves once inhabited by hippies. The steep, 4km road from Immouzzer village down to the falls is one of many walks in the region.
4Sleeping & Eating
There are cafes at the bottom of the path to th
e falls, and on the way up. Accommodation options around Paradise Valley all have good cafes with excellent views. Try the local honey.
Auberge le PanoramicHOTEL€€
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0528 21 67 09; www.auberge-le-panoramic.com; Paradise Valley; s/d incl half-board Dh280/500; as)
The newer block at this friendly stop on the route du miel (honey route) is the pick of Paradise Valley's accommodation, with almost vertigo-inducing views from the balcony of en-suite rooms. The restaurant serves tajines, omelettes, brochettes and a breakfast featuring three honeys, produced by the beehives on the slopes below.
Auberge Bab ImmouzerHOTEL€
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0670 13 10 06; www.aubergebabimouzer.com; Paradise Valley; r Dh250-300; as)
Well kept but low on atmosphere, Bab Immouzer has six en-suite rooms and a series of terraces overlooking the neighbouring palmeraie (palm grove) and valley. Poolside rooms have balconies with a view.
Hotel TifritHOTEL€
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0528 21 67 08; www.hotel-tifrit.net; Paradise Valley; s/d incl half-board Dh300/450; as)
Right by the river in the palmeraie, near the waterfall of the same name, Tifrit has six en-suite rooms with big windows overlooking the palms.
Hôtel des CascadesHOTEL€€
Lonely Planet Morocco Page 71